tat rider stranded and in serious need of a motor!

[Jim]

Make that DualSTAR grips...Brain is already asleep. Jim

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" wrote: > > Hi > > When I installed my DualSport heated grips, I wrapped my left bar with > high quality electrical tape so that I had about 4 layers or so built > up. I very carefully wrapped the length of the grip area, barely > overlapping the tape on each wrap, then went back the other way. I > wanted very even layers. Make sure to use HIGH QUALITY tape, so that > the heat doesn't soften the adhesive. I also made sure to stretch it > quite a bit as I put it on. I used them all last summer (about 4000 > miles with them on) and didn't have any problems. The grip stayed in > place and both warmers felt even. > > Jim > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > > > On Thu, 5 Apr 2007 02:10:59 +0000 douglasfiorella@ writes: > > > Hi! I'm instalingl heated hand grips - is there anything I should > > > take special care with? Anyone do this themselves before?? > > > > > > Thanks/ride on > > <><><><><><><> > <><><><><><><>> > > > > Douglas, > > > > I think quite a few folks on the list have installed heated grips. I > > suppose it depends on what type or brand you have as to special > attention > > or tricks that might be helpful. > > > > I have Moose Heated ATV grips on my KLR and they look just like the > > www.dual-star.com heated grip elements other than the Moose ATV > grips are > > the same heat on each side. The Dual-Star elements are hotter on the > > clutch side than the throttle side but you could swap them side to side > > if you want. I used the Dual-Star elements first and decided to try the > > Moose elements hoping for a more even temperature side to side. > > > > If this is the type of heating element you have I have a couple of > > suggestions. Test the throttle side element for wire flexing before you > > install it permanently. Make sure you twist the grip through full > > throttle. I've found leaving a loop about two inches long or so works > > well to allow movement without undue flex. Wrap the left side bar with > > cork bicycle grip tape to insulate the element from the bar. Use two > > throttle side grips as the left grip will now be thicker than a > > motorcycle clutch side grip can slip over. I like the Pro-Grip Gel > grips > > that Fred sells. I think I use the 737 but some folks like the 714. I > > also use High Temperature RTV as a lubricant and grip glue. Once the > > element is wrapped around the tube I take some sewing thread and lightly > > wrap around the element to help it hold in position while slipping the > > grip over the RTV and element. Let the RTV set for 24 hours before > > messing with the grips. Like don't test them to see how well they're > > sticking after 4 hours. : ) The stock grip glue is very good and > you'll > > probably have to cut the stock grips off the throttle tube and > handlebar. > > I filed the throttle tube ridges to provide a smooth surface for the > > element. > > > > I wired my heated grips with a high, off, low switch. Even low is too > > hot most of the time. Yes too hot even when riding in the 20s. So the > > next thing I'm planning on doing to make the heating elements really > > adjustable is install a Heat Troller dual grip heater control. They are > > really pricey at about $120 but I'm pretty sure that will beat turning > > the grip heaters on and off every few minutes. > > > > Hope this is helpful. > > > > Best, > > > > Jeff Saline > > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > > >

[mbetcher]

The directions will probably tell you to splice into the headlight circuit to power the grip heaters. However, I would suggest that you put a relay into the circuit. The relay will draw power directly from the battery, but you can use the switched "city light" circuit behind the instrument cluster to activate the relay. DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, douglasfiorella@... wrote:

> > Hi! I'm instalingl heated hand grips - is there anything I should

take special care with? Anyone do this themselves before??

> > Thanks/ride on > > Sent via BlackBerry from Cingular Wireless >

[mbetcher]

The directions will probably tell you to splice into the headlight circuit to power the grip heaters. However, I would suggest that you put a relay into the circuit. The relay will draw power directly from the battery, but you can use the switched "city light" circuit behind the instrument cluster to activate the relay. DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, douglasfiorella@... wrote:

> > Hi! I'm instalingl heated hand grips - is there anything I should

take special care with? Anyone do this themselves before??

> > Thanks/ride on > > Sent via BlackBerry from Cingular Wireless >

[david zawadzki]

Hello friends, I own a pair of these heated grips:http://tinyurl.com/nwmfqde http://tinyurl.com/oomvbt4 The issue I have is this:My motorcycle was stolen and I had the cables running from the battery to the grips on the bike. The actual grips were in my house. Is there any way I could make this thing work without purchasing the whole unit?I have no idea where I can get the wiring. I emailed Oxford but have not heard back. Any advice is appreciated. Currently I ride a 2006 xt225 Thanks!-- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 www.thelegendofzarko.com

[Martin Earl]

snip(It is a complete running bike with about 28k on it) Does $1500 sound reasonable for a machine like this in good shape?unsnip. I have been accused of being master of the obvious. cough.The choices here are very few and time is very precious.Perhaps the wrong question is being asked. If the trip is that important...Isn't this the real answer; buy the 'good' bike, swap the farkle and go.Farkle swap should not take more than a full day...and by my count, more than two days have passed. shrug. If there is not enough cash-margin left to buy the bike, the additional expenses of securing an engine, shipping, additional repairs, hotel, food etc will quickly use up, and equal the cost of a good used bike, that could be back on the TAT tomorrow or day after tomorrow at the latest.Your horse will not be the first, or the last, to die going across the Great Desert, etc. There is a reason why million dollar airplanes are scrapped...=repair exceeds the apparent value; and if this situation has, economy of scale applied, it is the same reason $1500 motorcycles are parted out as well. revmaaatin. who is watching with keen interest

On Fri, Aug 14, 2015 at 7:41 AM, 'Fred Hink' moabmc@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Thanks Paul, Morgan is needing a complete running engine. He had a close-up meeting with a rock on the TAT and took out the lower end of his engine. (engine cases, rotor, stator and crankshaft). His traveling partner/brother ended up with a low engine oil level and took out the head on his KLR. So we have robbed the head off of Morgan s bike to (hopefully) fix his brother s bike. So we will need a complete running engine for Morgan to finish his trip to Oregon. I have a 90 model KLR in my shop that he could use for the engine. If he could part out the rest of the bike then his costs to get back on the trail would be considerably less. Anyone needing anything on a 90 KLR besides the engine? (It is a complete running bike with about 28k on it) Does $1500 sound reasonable for a machine like this in good shape? Let s beat the bushes and find Morgan an engine. He is a good kid and needs to get back out on the TAT. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com [b]From:[/b] bigburlybaldbeardedbiker@... [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, August 14, 2015 7:13 AM [b]To:[/b] Morgankeenan5375@... ; moabmc@... [b]Subject:[/b] Re: TAT rider stranded and in serious need of a motor! Well, I have a KLR 650 engine available, but I'm not sure it's what you really want. It's an '87 model, and was told it's "tired", so it probably needs rings and a valve job. It is a complete motor, and it would bolt right in. Depending on what is wrong with your motor, you might be able to swap the whole top ends. Paul Streeter Hello everyone, My name is Morgan Keenan, I'm a recent UNCW grad and riding the TAT with my brother and I am in serious need of an engine! I have a 2005 klr650 and I am in a big jam, please message me if you- or someone you know- has a motor! I am stationed in Moab at arrowhead motorsports in the meantime. (PS... Fred is the absolute man... I highly recommend this shop!) Morgan 7049428765 Morgankeenan5375@...

[Norm Keller]

#ygrps-yiv-346740148 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-346740148cite {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;} #ygrps-yiv-346740148 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-346740148cite2 {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;margin-top:3px;padding-top:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-346740148 .ygrps-yiv-346740148plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-346740148 .ygrps-yiv-346740148plain tt {font-family:monospace;font-size:100%;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;white-space:pre-wrap;} #ygrps-yiv-346740148 a img {border:0px;}#ygrps-yiv-346740148 {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} #ygrps-yiv-346740148 .ygrps-yiv-346740148plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-346740148 .ygrps-yiv-346740148plain tt {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} The remainder of the wiring is simple to do. The biggest problem in making heated grips is the lead wires from the bike to the grips due to the flexing. Generally, the throttle side is the main issue but since, I understand, you have the grips with the leads, the rest is simply wiring. If dealing with this, and given my preconceptions, I would install a relay to power the grips and other accessories into the overflow tank frame area. Fuse the relay off the battery cable on the starter relay (starter solenoid). One wire in some loom or hose will keep the wire safe up to the relay. One lead wire from the relay to power the grip heaters and other leads for other things, maybe later, such as GPS or cell charger. Controlling the grips is easy as pie using one of the pulse width modulators off Ebay, such as this one for LED lights. It will handle 8 amps so more than enough for the grips. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-12V-8A-LED-Light-Dimmer-Brightness-Adjustable-Bright-Controller-Single-Color-/251975400268?hash=item3aaae77b4c I remove the circuit board and potentiometer from the box, wrap the circuit board in plastic and tape to keep dry and add additional wire length to the potentiometer wires if needed to make for easier mounting. The grip heaters go to the two output screws and the positive and negative go to the relay and to a frame bolt, respectively. If more details are needed, just let me know. It's an easy problem to solve and the potentiometer gives nice control.

[david zawadzki]

Sweet. Thanks for that.

On Sat, Aug 15, 2015 at 5:38 PM, 'Norm Keller' normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u] The remainder of the wiring is simple to do. The biggest problem in making heated grips is the lead wires from the bike to the grips due to the flexing. Generally, the throttle side is the main issue but since, I understand, you have the grips with the leads, the rest is simply wiring. If dealing with this, and given my preconceptions, I would install a relay to power the grips and other accessories into the overflow tank frame area. Fuse the relay off the battery cable on the starter relay (starter solenoid). One wire in some loom or hose will keep the wire safe up to the relay. One lead wire from the relay to power the grip heaters and other leads for other things, maybe later, such as GPS or cell charger. Controlling the grips is easy as pie using one of the pulse width modulators off Ebay, such as this one for LED lights. It will handle 8 amps so more than enough for the grips. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-12V-8A-LED-Light-Dimmer-Brightness-Adjustable-Bright-Controller-Single-Color-/251975400268?hash=item3aaae77b4c I remove the circuit board and potentiometer from the box, wrap the circuit board in plastic and tape to keep dry and add additional wire length to the potentiometer wires if needed to make for easier mounting. The grip heaters go to the two output screws and the positive and negative go to the relay and to a frame bolt, respectively. If more details are needed, just let me know. It's an easy problem to solve and the potentiometer gives nice control.

-- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 www.thelegendofzarko.com

[Ateam]

    [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Monday, August 17, 2015 2:05 PM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com ; normkel32@... [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Heated Grips   Off subject a bit but maybe someone will benefit from this.   I have installed the Oxford heated grips.  Plug an play.  A connection to ground and a connection to power.  They heat up enough that you can t hold them when installing.  4 positions, easy to operate and customer service was excellent.  I had the Moose grips for 3 days in Utah and they were a bear to install and cheap.   YMMV, but Oxford makes a great product. LINK:     Sweet. Thanks for that.   On Sat, Aug 15, 2015 at 5:38 PM, 'Norm Keller' normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

[u][/u]  

The remainder of the wiring is simple to do. The biggest problem in making heated grips is the lead wires from the bike to the grips due to the flexing. Generally, the throttle side is the main issue but since, I understand, you have the grips with the leads, the rest is simply wiring. If dealing with this, and given my preconceptions, I would install a relay to power the grips and other accessories into the overflow tank frame area. Fuse the relay off the battery cable on the starter relay (starter solenoid). One wire in some loom or hose will keep the wire safe up to the relay. One lead wire from the relay to power the grip heaters and other leads for other things, maybe later, such as GPS or cell charger. Controlling the grips is easy as pie using one of the pulse width modulators off Ebay, such as this one for LED lights. It will handle 8 amps so more than enough for the grips. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-12V-8A-LED-Light-Dimmer-Brightness-Adjustable-Bright-Controller-Single-Color-/251975400268?hash=item3aaae77b4c I remove the circuit board and potentiometer from the box, wrap the circuit board in plastic and tape to keep dry and add additional wire length to the potentiometer wires if needed to make for easier mounting. The grip heaters go to the two output screws and the positive and negative go to the relay and to a frame bolt, respectively. If more details are needed, just let me know. It's an easy problem to solve and the potentiometer gives nice control.

 -- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 www.thelegendofzarko.com