stock is as stock does

DSN_KLR650
sleazyvagabond
Posts: 53
Joined: Sun Feb 01, 2004 8:58 am

brakes

Post by sleazyvagabond » Sat May 29, 2004 1:26 pm

I posted on this earlier but it was more of a blurt. Next time y'all have a tech day,get orange cones or coke bottles or something and a tape measure,and get as many differently configured bikes brakewise as available get the best and most consistent rider and measure the stopping results. Long overdue I think,and mainstream magazines would publish the results, at least in a side bar, if not a short feature.

dirtrooster2003
Posts: 122
Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2004 8:40 am

brakes

Post by dirtrooster2003 » Sun May 30, 2004 9:25 am

Amen --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "sleazyvagabond" wrote:
> I posted on this earlier but it was more of a blurt. Next time
y'all
> have a tech day,get orange cones or coke bottles or something and
a
> tape measure,and get as many differently configured bikes
brakewise
> as available get the best and most consistent rider and measure
the
> stopping results. Long overdue I think,and mainstream magazines > would publish the results, at least in a side bar, if not a short > feature.

Jacobus De Bruyn
Posts: 209
Joined: Thu May 24, 2007 9:55 am

brakes

Post by Jacobus De Bruyn » Mon Jul 02, 2007 6:12 pm

I searched for info on Marknet and Arrowhead about the brake master cylinder and piston, but nothing. The thing is, that the small pistons have rubber O-rings or cups that wear out, and then the braking becomes soft or none. But they do not sell the rubber replacements O-rings or cups separately, one is supposed to buy the whole piston set from the Kawa dealer for $55,- here, (for one only) but I usually get the Yamaha piston set for $14,- and they are identically the same, made by the same sweet chinese girls in the same factory probably. Is there a way to get these rubber rings to replace them periodically, or shall I continue buying the whole set with springs en pistons and circlips and all, what I don t need? Am I the only one with this issue? Thanks brothers who know. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles. Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center. http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/

kestrelfal
Posts: 331
Joined: Thu Apr 13, 2006 7:31 am

brakes

Post by kestrelfal » Mon Jul 02, 2007 7:48 pm

http://www.ronayers.com P/N 43020-1098 ('95) $24.46 + S&H Fred --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jacobus De Bruyn wrote:
> > I searched for info on Marknet and Arrowhead about the > brake master cylinder and piston, but nothing. > The thing is, that the small pistons have rubber > O-rings or cups that wear out, and then the braking > becomes soft or none. But they do not sell the rubber > replacements O-rings or cups separately, one is > supposed to buy the whole piston set from the Kawa > dealer for $55,- here, (for one only) but I usually > get the Yamaha piston set for $14,- and they are > identically the same, made by the same sweet chinese > girls in the same factory probably. > Is there a way to get these rubber rings to replace > them periodically, or shall I continue buying the > whole set with springs en pistons and circlips and > all, what I don t need? Am I the only one with this > issue? Thanks brothers who know.

Chris
Posts: 1250
Joined: Wed Jul 31, 2013 11:57 am

brakes

Post by Chris » Mon Sep 03, 2007 10:16 pm

howdy! how long would ya'll expect the first set of brake pads to last? My mechanic (i'm sure that many of you are gasping right now) said that my pads will probably need to be replaced at the 9,000 mile check up. does that fit with other folks experience or am i hard on the brakes? i down shift plenty but do kind of ride it like it is stolen.

gmay131313
Posts: 73
Joined: Fri Nov 17, 2006 4:42 pm

brakes

Post by gmay131313 » Mon Sep 03, 2007 10:58 pm

Hi Chris, I replaced mine last winter with SBS ceramic's and a SS brake line which transformed the brakes totally as far as braking power and feel goes, possibly the best money I've spent on a bike. I'm a hard front braker and when I changed them there was 10000km on them and they were worn to about 1/2 thickness. I should qualify this with the fact that while I use the front brake hard with the exception on a 10km trip to work and back through pretty light traffic I do little or no stop and go traffic so your mileage depending on type of use could vary greatly...Have a great day.....Greg
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "chris" wrote: > > howdy! how long would ya'll expect the first set of brake pads to > last? My mechanic (i'm sure that many of you are gasping right now) > said that my pads will probably need to be replaced at the 9,000 mile > check up. does that fit with other folks experience or am i hard on > the brakes? i down shift plenty but do kind of ride it like it is > stolen. >

E.L. Green
Posts: 639
Joined: Sat Dec 03, 2005 11:36 am

brakes

Post by E.L. Green » Tue Sep 04, 2007 3:49 pm

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "chris" wrote:
> > howdy! how long would ya'll expect the first set of brake pads to > last? My mechanic (i'm sure that many of you are gasping right now) > said that my pads will probably need to be replaced at the 9,000 mile > check up. does that fit with other folks experience or am i hard on > the brakes? i down shift plenty but do kind of ride it like it is > stolen.
It depends upon where and how you ride, but 9,000 miles doesn't sound unreasonable for KLR brake pads on a new rotor. If you're mostly a street rider your fronts will wear down first, if mostly a dirt rider your rears will wear down first. I have a new set of EBC's sitting on my bookshelf here to replace my EBC fronts that have about 8,000 miles on them, it's not time yet but it will be soon, and EBC's are thicker than the OEM pads. Note also that new pads will wear quicker because you can't turn the KLR discs thus the rough discs will wear the new pads faster than new discs did.

fasteddiecopeman
Posts: 813
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2004 2:05 pm

brakes

Post by fasteddiecopeman » Thu Sep 06, 2007 11:08 am

Chris, I replaced my pads, front and rear, at 30,000 kms (18,000 miles) because I was going to Alaska. There was still some pad left. Ed

Jacobus De Bruyn
Posts: 209
Joined: Thu May 24, 2007 9:55 am

brakes

Post by Jacobus De Bruyn » Mon May 19, 2008 7:39 pm

Gents,I rode into my gate this afternoon, and got almost hit by the remote control door, the bike wouldn t move. The rear brake was locked closed, and the caliper was very hot, when I removed the bleeding valve, boiling oil came out. Is this the best we can do for motorcycle brakes? Unreliable, whimsical things, that out of the blue freeze, and send you to your grave? Are there any better quality systems available? It seems that for every hour riding this thing, there are five hours fixing, and scratching my head, and some cursing can be heard too. The drum brakes are much more reliable and last longer. Are they not good enough for bigger bikes? The braking on this thing is not as good as on the 125 ybr. Now to get back the oil pressure on the caliper, seems to take for ever, so I ll let it sit overnight. I got the auto bleeder valves from Fred, so it should work. I ve got the Clymer manual, so eventually it should work out, but wednesday morning I have scheduled the appointment with the vehicle inspection, so I would like it back working before that. I would welcome comments. Jacostarica.

Fred Hink
Posts: 2434
Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2000 10:08 am

brakes

Post by Fred Hink » Mon May 19, 2008 7:48 pm

Sounds like you may have contaminated brake fluid. Have you exposed your brake fluid to the atmosphere? Brake fluid has an affinity to moisture. Adding brake fluid from an unknown source is asking for trouble. Brake fluid will not expand normally under heat but add a little moisture and that is another story. I would flush your brake system with some new DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid that has never been opened before and see if that helps. Have you had your rear brakes apart or the rear wheel off your bike recently? The rear brakepads can come out of their holders in the caliper and cause them to rub and create heat. I'd suspect something you did to your bike before blaming the bike. The KLR does have weak brakes but they do work and they normally don't lock up the wheels on their own accord. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com http://s1.zetaboards.com/arrowhead
----- Original Message ----- From: Jacobus De Bruyn To: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 6:37 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] brakes Gents,I rode into my gate this afternoon, and got almost hit by the remote control door, the bike wouldn t move. The rear brake was locked closed, and the caliper was very hot, when I removed the bleeding valve, boiling oil came out. Is this the best we can do for motorcycle brakes? Unreliable, whimsical things, that out of the blue freeze, and send you to your grave? Are there any better quality systems available? It seems that for every hour riding this thing, there are five hours fixing, and scratching my head, and some cursing can be heard too. The drum brakes are much more reliable and last longer. Are they not good enough for bigger bikes? The braking on this thing is not as good as on the 125 ybr. Now to get back the oil pressure on the caliper, seems to take for ever, so I ll let it sit overnight. I got the auto bleeder valves from Fred, so it should work. I ve got the Clymer manual, so eventually it should work out, but wednesday morning I have scheduled the appointment with the vehicle inspection, so I would like it back working before that. I would welcome comments. Jacostarica. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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