stock is as stock does
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- Posts: 53
- Joined: Sun Feb 01, 2004 8:58 am
brakes
I posted on this earlier but it was more of a blurt. Next time y'all
have a tech day,get orange cones or coke bottles or something and a
tape measure,and get as many differently configured bikes brakewise
as available get the best and most consistent rider and measure the
stopping results. Long overdue I think,and mainstream magazines
would publish the results, at least in a side bar, if not a short
feature.
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- Posts: 122
- Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2004 8:40 am
brakes
Amen
--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "sleazyvagabond"
wrote:
y'all> I posted on this earlier but it was more of a blurt. Next time
a> have a tech day,get orange cones or coke bottles or something and
brakewise> tape measure,and get as many differently configured bikes
the> as available get the best and most consistent rider and measure
> stopping results. Long overdue I think,and mainstream magazines > would publish the results, at least in a side bar, if not a short > feature.
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- Posts: 209
- Joined: Thu May 24, 2007 9:55 am
brakes
I searched for info on Marknet and Arrowhead about the
brake master cylinder and piston, but nothing.
The thing is, that the small pistons have rubber
O-rings or cups that wear out, and then the braking
becomes soft or none. But they do not sell the rubber
replacements O-rings or cups separately, one is
supposed to buy the whole piston set from the Kawa
dealer for $55,- here, (for one only) but I usually
get the Yamaha piston set for $14,- and they are
identically the same, made by the same sweet chinese
girls in the same factory probably.
Is there a way to get these rubber rings to replace
them periodically, or shall I continue buying the
whole set with springs en pistons and circlips and
all, what I don t need? Am I the only one with this
issue? Thanks brothers who know.
____________________________________________________________________________________
Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles. Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center.
http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/
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- Posts: 331
- Joined: Thu Apr 13, 2006 7:31 am
brakes
http://www.ronayers.com P/N 43020-1098 ('95) $24.46 + S&H
Fred
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jacobus De Bruyn
wrote:
> > I searched for info on Marknet and Arrowhead about the > brake master cylinder and piston, but nothing. > The thing is, that the small pistons have rubber > O-rings or cups that wear out, and then the braking > becomes soft or none. But they do not sell the rubber > replacements O-rings or cups separately, one is > supposed to buy the whole piston set from the Kawa > dealer for $55,- here, (for one only) but I usually > get the Yamaha piston set for $14,- and they are > identically the same, made by the same sweet chinese > girls in the same factory probably. > Is there a way to get these rubber rings to replace > them periodically, or shall I continue buying the > whole set with springs en pistons and circlips and > all, what I don t need? Am I the only one with this > issue? Thanks brothers who know.
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- Posts: 1250
- Joined: Wed Jul 31, 2013 11:57 am
brakes
howdy! how long would ya'll expect the first set of brake pads to
last? My mechanic (i'm sure that many of you are gasping right now)
said that my pads will probably need to be replaced at the 9,000 mile
check up. does that fit with other folks experience or am i hard on
the brakes? i down shift plenty but do kind of ride it like it is
stolen.
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- Posts: 73
- Joined: Fri Nov 17, 2006 4:42 pm
brakes
Hi Chris, I replaced mine last winter with SBS ceramic's and a SS
brake line which transformed the brakes totally as far as braking power
and feel goes, possibly the best money I've spent on a bike. I'm a hard
front braker and when I changed them there was 10000km on them and they
were worn to about 1/2 thickness. I should qualify this with the fact
that while I use the front brake hard with the exception on a 10km trip
to work and back through pretty light traffic I do little or no stop
and go traffic so your mileage depending on type of use could vary
greatly...Have a great day.....Greg
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "chris" wrote: > > howdy! how long would ya'll expect the first set of brake pads to > last? My mechanic (i'm sure that many of you are gasping right now) > said that my pads will probably need to be replaced at the 9,000 mile > check up. does that fit with other folks experience or am i hard on > the brakes? i down shift plenty but do kind of ride it like it is > stolen. >
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- Posts: 639
- Joined: Sat Dec 03, 2005 11:36 am
brakes
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "chris" wrote:
It depends upon where and how you ride, but 9,000 miles doesn't sound unreasonable for KLR brake pads on a new rotor. If you're mostly a street rider your fronts will wear down first, if mostly a dirt rider your rears will wear down first. I have a new set of EBC's sitting on my bookshelf here to replace my EBC fronts that have about 8,000 miles on them, it's not time yet but it will be soon, and EBC's are thicker than the OEM pads. Note also that new pads will wear quicker because you can't turn the KLR discs thus the rough discs will wear the new pads faster than new discs did.> > howdy! how long would ya'll expect the first set of brake pads to > last? My mechanic (i'm sure that many of you are gasping right now) > said that my pads will probably need to be replaced at the 9,000 mile > check up. does that fit with other folks experience or am i hard on > the brakes? i down shift plenty but do kind of ride it like it is > stolen.
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- Posts: 813
- Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2004 2:05 pm
brakes
Chris,
I replaced my pads, front and rear, at 30,000 kms (18,000 miles) because I was going to
Alaska. There was still some pad left.
Ed
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- Posts: 209
- Joined: Thu May 24, 2007 9:55 am
brakes
Gents,I rode into my gate this afternoon, and got
almost hit by the remote control door, the bike
wouldn t move. The rear brake was locked closed, and
the caliper was very hot, when I removed the bleeding
valve, boiling oil came out.
Is this the best we can do for motorcycle brakes?
Unreliable, whimsical things, that out of the blue
freeze, and send you to your grave? Are there any
better quality systems available?
It seems that for every hour riding this thing, there
are five hours fixing, and scratching my head, and
some cursing can be heard too.
The drum brakes are much more reliable and last
longer. Are they not good enough for bigger bikes?
The braking on this thing is not as good as on the 125
ybr.
Now to get back the oil pressure on the caliper, seems
to take for ever, so I ll let it sit overnight.
I got the auto bleeder valves from Fred, so it should
work. I ve got the Clymer manual, so eventually it
should work out, but wednesday morning I have
scheduled the appointment with the vehicle inspection,
so I would like it back working before that.
I would welcome comments. Jacostarica.
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- Posts: 2434
- Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2000 10:08 am
brakes
Sounds like you may have contaminated brake fluid. Have you exposed your brake fluid to the atmosphere? Brake fluid has an affinity to moisture. Adding brake fluid from an unknown source is asking for trouble. Brake fluid will not expand normally under heat but add a little moisture and that is another story. I would flush your brake system with some new DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid that has never been opened before and see if that helps.
Have you had your rear brakes apart or the rear wheel off your bike recently? The rear brakepads can come out of their holders in the caliper and cause them to rub and create heat. I'd suspect something you did to your bike before blaming the bike. The KLR does have weak brakes but they do work and they normally don't lock up the wheels on their own accord.
Fred
http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com
http://s1.zetaboards.com/arrowhead
----- Original Message ----- From: Jacobus De Bruyn To: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 6:37 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] brakes Gents,I rode into my gate this afternoon, and got almost hit by the remote control door, the bike wouldn t move. The rear brake was locked closed, and the caliper was very hot, when I removed the bleeding valve, boiling oil came out. Is this the best we can do for motorcycle brakes? Unreliable, whimsical things, that out of the blue freeze, and send you to your grave? Are there any better quality systems available? It seems that for every hour riding this thing, there are five hours fixing, and scratching my head, and some cursing can be heard too. The drum brakes are much more reliable and last longer. Are they not good enough for bigger bikes? The braking on this thing is not as good as on the 125 ybr. Now to get back the oil pressure on the caliper, seems to take for ever, so I ll let it sit overnight. I got the auto bleeder valves from Fred, so it should work. I ve got the Clymer manual, so eventually it should work out, but wednesday morning I have scheduled the appointment with the vehicle inspection, so I would like it back working before that. I would welcome comments. Jacostarica. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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