


I did it to my A14. Did not help anything. Did not hurt anything. At the time, the KLR had close to 80,000 miles on it. Rode it about 2,000 after removing the KACR, didn t do anything one way or the other. No difference in starting. I removed the cam and cut the KACR off with a Dremel. Two pins, if I remember correctly. Removing the cam was the easy way to keep junk out of the motor. Al>So the questiuon is: what would one stand to gain/lose by removing >the KACR? (Kawasaki Auto Compression Release system. >
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Gabe" wrote: > > OK, this one is for the seasoned KLR engine masters, or anyone else > that has an informed opinion: > > Fisrt off: this is a 2005 KLR650, 6900 miles. All manitenance is > done regularly. Runs awesome, never any problems. 'cept for things > falling off, but we all know about that...> > So the questiuon is: what would one stand to gain/lose by removing > the KACR? (Kawasaki Auto Compression Release system. If you don't > know what it is, go do some research!
) > > I have heard mentioned a couple of times around here that folks have > removed theirs with no ill effects. The reason I ask is I have this > ticking noise that is driving me mad, and I have an idea it might be > the KACR. > > This diagnosis is not based on any facts or direct observations of > the KACR, but simply on the location and nature of the sound, the > fact that others have reported the same noise and suspected the > KACR, and the fact that by most accounts the KACR is not exactly the > most bulletproof part of this engine. > > The noise comes from the upper forward area of the engine, right > side (right where the KACR is), somewhat intermittent ticking sound, > definitely metal-to-metal. It deosn't start ticking until the engine > is warm, and it has gotten slighty more constant and a little louder > over time. When I first noticed it the noise would come and go > every thirty seconds or so, ticking for a few seconds and then > stopping. Now it is pretty much constant; once the engine is warmed > up a little bit, it's ticking away...
Before you suggest valves, > it made the same noise before and after the valve adjustment. > (Valves were at lower end of spec, I adjusted to upper end) I've > also taken out and inspected the cam chain tensioner just for shits > and giggles, and it was fine. > > So after listening to this ticking noise each and every time I ride > the bike for the last 4000 miles or so and thinking, "Damn, that > just doesn't sound [i]healthy[/i]...", I am at the popint where I > want to try something. I plan on keeping this bike for as long as > it lives, and I would like that to be a long time. > > First move, of course, is cracking the motor open and taking a look > at the KACR, valves, etc...but then I don't really know what I am > looking for. I know where things are, but I'm not enough of a > mechanic to spot something if it's not an obviously messed up part. > So I figure while I've got it taken apart, why not just whack the > damn KACR off? After all isn't it just a vestigal part, made > obsolete and unnecessary by the modern wonder of electric start? > > The unknowns for me are: How hard is it? What tools to do I need? > How precise do you have to be? What are the potential risks of > doing it? (besides the obvious "yew could F yer engine up real good > if'n you put it back tuhgether wrong or drop pieces of metal into > yer engine" stuff) > And finally, if I did successfully remove it, what are the downsides > of not having one? > > Thanks for reading, and thanks even more for your replies... > > :cheers: >
Didn't it get rid of that "sound" it made when you screw it on below 3k rpms? Sonny '02 KLR650> Al writes: >> > I did it to my A14. Did not help anything. Did not hurt anything.
That's what the medical establishment used to think about your/our tonsils and appendix. BTW you can get a stethoscope for a couple of $ at Harbor Freight. Wonder if those docs used Chinese stethoscopes ? Bogdan> why not cut the bastard off? >
[SNIP]> So the questiuon is: what would one stand to > gain/lose by removing > the KACR? (Kawasaki Auto Compression Release system.
[SNIP] __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com> This diagnosis is not based on any facts or direct > observations of > the KACR, but simply on the location and nature of > the sound, the > fact that others have reported the same noise and > suspected the > KACR, and the fact that by most accounts the KACR is > not exactly the > most bulletproof part of this engine.
> > I could be wrong, but I don't think the KACR is a > known weak point on the KLR650. I believe it had a > history of failing on the KLX and maybe the old 600, > but I can't remember having heard of one failing on a > KLR. Which isn't to say it hasn't happened, but just > that I think it's almost always harmless. > > I don't know anything about removing it, but I can > name two good reasons to leave it on: > > 1. I believe that the KACR is a big factor in why you > can often pump the water out of a swamped KLR without > pulling the plug and all that jazz. Conventional > wisdom says this can't be done (hydraulic lock etc), > or will lead to a bent rod or damaged crank (sounds > like a hell of a lot of torque for a little starter, > but who am I to argue). I and at least a small > handful of other listers have seen a totally swamped > KLR able to clear its own cylinder through short taps > on the starter. Without the KACR yes, you could pull > the plug and do it that way, but that's a PITA and > gives that 650cc of nasty water a much longer chance > to soak past your rings, contaminate your oil, and > generally ruin your day. > > 2. Bump starting a KLR is a pain in the ass even with > a KACR (650cc is a lot of compression to overcome, > even on pavement WITH the relief). Imagine trying to > bump start one on a dirt road, miles from nowhere, > WITHOUT it. > > If you pull it keep us in the loop. I'm a curious > man. > > -Luke > > > So the questiuon is: what would one stand to > > gain/lose by removing > > the KACR? (Kawasaki Auto Compression Release system. > [SNIP] > > This diagnosis is not based on any facts or direct > > observations of > > the KACR, but simply on the location and nature of > > the sound, the > > fact that others have reported the same noise and > > suspected the > > KACR, and the fact that by most accounts the KACR is > > not exactly the > > most bulletproof part of this engine. > [SNIP] > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com >
Really? Can you 'splain me how/why? I thought KACR only came into play at when rpms> Running without the KACR puts a lot of extra load on > the starter and battery.
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