suggestion
imaginable. Pulled out the core plugs, and flushed the engine. This
resulted in
partially blocking the radiator. Having the radiator rodded out. Having
the
distributor checked, for operation as well as shaft end play. The
phenolic
washer can break off separating the gear from the housing. The gear
will walk
up the camshaft as you rev the engine, and retard the timing. I even
had the
radiator recored, as a shop felt that was the problem.
The real problem was, the radiator core was wrong! Back when these car
had
bottomed in value, but were still daily drivers, and you took it to a
radiator shop
for a problem is when it probably happened. You needed a new radiator
core.
They could put in a two row core, or a three row core, like what was in
there.
The price difference was maybe $30.00 at the time. (Remember, this was
a daily
driver, worth $300.00). The shop said either one would work. The two
row core
was installed, and you had overheating problems, after a period of time.
I noticed that other members of the Vintage MG Club of Southern
California
had three row radiator cores, and they had no overheating problems! I
had
a three row, maximum cooling core installed, and no more problems.
Another
club member had just completed a restoration, and started experiencing
the
same problem. I looked at the tube placement at his top header tank,
and told
him he needed a new radiator core. He said that he had it recored. I
told him
that may be, but he needed a three row core installed, to solve the
problem.
John Seim
Irvine, CA
On Mar 7, 2008, at 11:42 AM, BUD SILVERS wrote:
> Hello All;
>
>
>
> When I first got my car it overheated badly. I kept putting water in
> it. The
> first trip up Pikes Peak (slow speed/high load) I stopped and put
> water in
> ten or twelve times, maybe more. I carried 5 gallons of water with me,
> and
> used most of it going up! I wrote emails to the group concerning
> overheating. I got mostly responses back saying check the radiator. I
> did
> and guess what? It was clogged! I cleaned it with little effect, but
> things
> were a bit better. I was in a parade and had to pull out two blocks
> before
> the finish due to overheating. The car right next to me was Bob Rich
> in his
> J2. His car was hot too, but not as hot as mine. BTW the J2 has no
> water
> pump. Water is circulated by heat rising and cool falling. I cleaned
> the
> radiator some more! This time I took it to a professional, who claimed
> he
> rodded it out, but I think he just boiled it. Anyway that made it a
> little
> better, but the car still overheated and ran hot. Next I bought a 6
> vane
> water pump and installed a MGB fan blade. Now that really helped. The
> fan
> blade made the engine incredibly smoother. OK, it's not stock and it is
> noticeable, but it works and it is a bolt on change. No modification
> to the
> car is necessary. I then bought a new radiator, and that seems to have
> solved the problem completely. The last trip up Pikes Peak (last
> summer) the
> temp never got over 85 degrees Celsius. I came home without adding ANY
> water, and did not lose any on the trip. I am still running a
> completely
> stock thermostat. I should also mention that I drove my car at 55 to
> 65 MPH
> across Kansas for 75+ miles in 95 degree Fahrenheit sunshine last
> summer and
> the temp never got over 85 degrees Celsius. Two last things I did. I
> set my
> timing at 3000 RPM and adjusted my carburetors.
>
>
>
> Here is a summary:
>
>
>
> 1. Make sure your radiator is flowing as it should. (REALLY
> IMPORTANT)
>
> 2. Install a 6 vane water pump. (ALSO IMPORTANT, and cheaper than
> a
> thermostat with housing)
>
> 3. Install a MGB fan if you wish.
>
> 4. Check/set your timing.
>
> 5. Check/set your carburetor adjustment.
>
>
>
> Now go drive your car and quit trying to find a way to modify
> something that
> is not broken.
>
>
>
> I don't mean to be critical of those of you who have installed a
> removable
> thermostat. It just really complicates the cooling system as it was
> designed. You all know that I am not opposed to modifying things,
> particularly if it does no harm to the car. For me I would prefer to
> keep
> the car as original as possible. My concern over the modern thermostat
> is
> that the engine was not designed for it. My worry is that too much
> pressure
> will build up and cause the soft plugs to pop out or the head gasket to
> blow. This is supposed to be a non pressure cooling system. It works
> that
> way for me. I am sure that those of you who have changed to a modern
> thermostat will say that the pressure does not cause a problem either.
> You
> are probably right.
>
>
>
> One last thing, there may be some of you who do not know that you can
> check
> your thermostat by putting it in hot water with a candy/cooking
> thermometer
> and watch to see what temperature it is opening at. Mine starts to
> open just
> over 100 Degrees Fahrenheit and is completely open about 175 degrees
> Fahrenheit.
>
> Anyway, there is my 2 cents and then some.
>
>
>
> Have a great day.
>
>
>
> Bud Silvers
>
> TC 8192 - Low n slo in the Black Forest of Colorado......