Re: LASER CUT STEEL BRAINS... Anyone Interested?

[Robert Hall]

Werent the original laser cut brains copper or brass, so they could be easily soldered together?

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 26, 2015, at 10:04 AM, Craig Reinbrecht craig@bex.net [B9Builders] wrote:

 
As I mentioned below, I can have the laser cut steel brains made, and sell them as kits that would need to be soldered together. This design utilizes the best research and source material we've ever had.

Also, If there is someone out there that would like to partner and do assembly... This could be a nice way for someone to make a few $ to fund their B9 project.

Anyone interested in this as a part? I don't think anyone is offering it right now...

Thanks,

Craig


At 09:53 AM 9/26/2015, you wrote:
 

Hi Ian,

Did you look in the Club Standard Online Blueprints page?
http://www.b9robotbuildersclub.com/tools/protected/reference/blueprints.html

There are excellent blueprints of the brain with dimensions, including the top view.

Just as with the R2 Builders and as you surely know the only way to make laser cutting reasonable is to have the parts done in quantities... which is why both clubs have vendors. Are you considering offering these parts to the club, or are you just planning to have one set made for yourself?

I don't have DXF files, but I do have the ability to have the Brain parts made. I would have to sell them as kits, unless there is someone out there that would like to partner and do the assembly... This could be a nice way for someone to make a few $ to fund their B9 project.

Craig




At 09:04 PM 9/24/2015, you wrote:
 

Hi

 

I have been thinking of making the brain section of a B9 again, as part of a restart of a B9 build.

 

I intend to make a torso from my mould again when I can.

 

I was just curious whether anyone has made any cad files of the brain section and any other parts.

 

For my R2 build I got a lot of parts laser cut and thought I could do the same with the B9.


Any directions would be great. I did look at the plans for the brain section and noticed there aren't any clear measurements to get the curve of the brain plate sides.

 

Regards

 

Ian

[Craig Reinbrecht]

This is all early and I was really just trying to gauge interest at this point. There definitely seems to be enough interest to pursue this! However, with Chiller and other things going on I probably won't be able to get to this until the November or December time frame. So stay tuned!

Thanks,

Craig

At 10:02 AM 9/27/2015, you wrote:

 

Well, you CAN solder steel and every B9 steel brain that has ever been made in the last 20 years (probably 50 years) has been soldered together. I soldered my B9 Brain together and frankly didn't find it that difficult. The bond is excellent.

I also used to solder together my first generation steel Programming Bays. Again it worked beautifully.

It was recommended to me way back when to use the thin resin core solder with lead in it, that you could get from Radio Shack. I believe I still did use the brush on resin. That solder works and flows great and I have also used it on every electrical connection on my robot ever since. Just don't let your kids eat it.

The two biggest issues I found with soldering the steel Brain is not the soldering itself, it's:

1) Holding all the parts together in alignment tightly to get a good tight joint so they can be soldered. However, adding the slots and tabs in the design to hold everything together makes that part much much easier.

2) the cleanup after words. Once you apply heat to the steel it starts to surface rust immediately which has to be cleaned up with some steel wool, then primed soon after. A bit of a pain, but not  a big deal.

With all that said, I will be exploring using other metals or having the steel copper coated, but that would be added cost and would have to be considered.

Craig






At 11:28 PM 9/26/2015, you wrote:
 

You're not going to really solder steel.   Typically steel is plated with copper if it is to be soldered, or if not plated, a copper based brazing rod, flux, and some heat to braze it.

-Bob

On Sat, Sep 26, 2015 at 9:17 PM, dar19904@yahoo.com [B9Builders] wrote:  
Would liquid solder work. You won't have to worry about trying to get solder to melt and burn anything.

[Robert Hall]

I had thought it a template sent by mistake as so stiff would need small bending brake to accurately form the bends at the eyes. Now thinking I bought a special German-USA design vise that has a multitude of special jaws for metal forming including shear and a long lever foot pedal for leverage in such operation. Quantum Engineering vise, also branded as Optima, so that makes me a quantum mechanic right...
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general-archive/t-o-multifunction-vise-foot-pedal-81329/index2.html

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 27, 2015, at 10:02 AM, Robert Hall oceanartscasino@yahoo.com [B9Builders] wrote:

 
Werent the original laser cut brains copper or brass, so they could be easily soldered together?

Sent from my iPad
On Sep 26, 2015, at 10:04 AM, Craig Reinbrecht craig@bex.net [B9Builders] wrote:

 
As I mentioned below, I can have the laser cut steel brains made, and sell them as kits that would need to be soldered together. This design utilizes the best research and source material we've ever had.

Also, If there is someone out there that would like to partner and do assembly... This could be a nice way for someone to make a few $ to fund their B9 project.

Anyone interested in this as a part? I don't think anyone is offering it right now...

Thanks,

Craig


At 09:53 AM 9/26/2015, you wrote:
 

Hi Ian,

Did you look in the Club Standard Online Blueprints page?
http://www.b9robotbuildersclub.com/tools/protected/reference/blueprints.html

There are excellent blueprints of the brain with dimensions, including the top view.

Just as with the R2 Builders and as you surely know the only way to make laser cutting reasonable is to have the parts done in quantities... which is why both clubs have vendors. Are you considering offering these parts to the club, or are you just planning to have one set made for yourself?

I don't have DXF files, but I do have the ability to have the Brain parts made. I would have to sell them as kits, unless there is someone out there that would like to partner and do the assembly... This could be a nice way for someone to make a few $ to fund their B9 project.

Craig




At 09:04 PM 9/24/2015, you wrote:
 

Hi

 

I have been thinking of making the brain section of a B9 again, as part of a restart of a B9 build.

 

I intend to make a torso from my mould again when I can.

 

I was just curious whether anyone has made any cad files of the brain section and any other parts.

 

For my R2 build I got a lot of parts laser cut and thought I could do the same with the B9.


Any directions would be great. I did look at the plans for the brain section and noticed there aren't any clear measurements to get the curve of the brain plate sides.

 

Regards

 

Ian

[sjb0459]

I have one of these.  It is steel but copper plated to enable the soldering part.  I have it assembled and boxed ready for the grand assembly.
Steve

[toblueiis]

Hello Craig,

As you said, soldering this thin steel shouldn't be a problem. As with any soldering, surface preparation is key, and using rosin core solder and brush on flex is a great help.

You mentioned about cleanup and preventing rust afterwards. After cleaning up the flux afterwards, I was thinking that you might could use a product called "Rust Converter", by Klean Strip. The comments that it says about itself are :

dries to a hard, paintable primer surface
inhibits further corrosion and flash rust

I bought it at walmart and it was fairly inexpensive. I have used it before, and liked the results. You don't have to clean it perfect, as for as the rust, but you would need to clean away the flux. It goes on very thin, which is good for the final finish. A little goes a long way. Be sure to follow the instructions. As it says, it functions as a primer, so it can easily be painted with a finish coat.

This steel may be the best option as far as materials that can be soldered. It is a pretty durable material, for being so thin, and relatively light weight. Also, it is probably the best price of other materials. When I mentioned durable, I am mostly considering that time frame till it is installed in the bubble. It is probably pretty safe once it is installed.

thanks,

David





--------------------------------------------

On Sun, 9/27/15, Craig Reinbrecht craig@bex.net [B9Builders] wrote:

Subject: Re: [B9Builders] LASER CUT STEEL BRAINS... Anyone Interested?
To: B9Builders@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, September 27, 2015, 9:02 AM




Well, you CAN solder steel and every B9 steel brain that has
ever been
made in the last 20 years (probably 50 years) has been
soldered together.
I soldered my B9 Brain together and frankly didn't find
it that
difficult. The bond is excellent.


I also used to solder together my first generation steel
Programming
Bays. Again it worked beautifully.


It was recommended to me way back when to use the thin resin
core solder
with lead in it, that you could get from Radio Shack. I
believe I still
did use the brush on resin. That solder works and flows
great and I have
also used it on every electrical connection on my robot ever
since. Just
don't let your kids eat it.


The two biggest issues I found with soldering the steel
Brain is not the
soldering itself, it's:


1) Holding all the parts together in alignment tightly to
get a good
tight joint so they can be soldered. However, adding the
slots and tabs
in the design to hold everything together makes that part
much much
easier.


2) the cleanup after words. Once you apply heat to the steel
it starts to
surface rust immediately which has to be cleaned up with
some steel wool,
then primed soon after. A bit of a pain, but not a big
deal.


With all that said, I will be exploring using other metals
or having the
steel copper coated, but that would be added cost and would
have to be
considered.


Craig










At 11:28 PM 9/26/2015, you wrote:




You're not going to really solder steel. Typically
steel is plated
with copper if it is to be soldered, or if not plated, a
copper based
brazing rod, flux, and some heat to braze it.


-Bob


On Sat, Sep 26, 2015 at 9:17 PM,
dar19904@yahoo.com
[B9Builders]
<
B9Builders@yahoogroups.com> wrote:






Would liquid solder work. You won't have to
worry about trying to get
solder to melt and burn anything.

















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[Gregorio Padin]

If this was a poll for election your topic won From my end with the time frame there is no issue. I doubt I will get him built this year.... But on a journey to learn and have fun:) (and build). 
  From: "Craig Reinbrecht craig@bex.net [B9Builders]"
To: B9Builders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2015 10:05 AM
Subject: Re: [B9Builders] LASER CUT STEEL BRAINS... Anyone Interested?

  This is all early and I was really just trying to gauge interest at this point. There definitely seems to be enough interest to pursue this! However, with Chiller and other things going on I probably won't be able to get to this until the November or December time frame. So stay tuned!

Thanks,

Craig

At 10:02 AM 9/27/2015, you wrote:

 

Well, you CAN solder steel and every B9 steel brain that has ever been made in the last 20 years (probably 50 years) has been soldered together. I soldered my B9 Brain together and frankly didn't find it that difficult. The bond is excellent.

I also used to solder together my first generation steel Programming Bays. Again it worked beautifully.

It was recommended to me way back when to use the thin resin core solder with lead in it, that you could get from Radio Shack. I believe I still did use the brush on resin. That solder works and flows great and I have also used it on every electrical connection on my robot ever since. Just don't let your kids eat it.

The two biggest issues I found with soldering the steel Brain is not the soldering itself, it's:

1) Holding all the parts together in alignment tightly to get a good tight joint so they can be soldered. However, adding the slots and tabs in the design to hold everything together makes that part much much easier.

2) the cleanup after words. Once you apply heat to the steel it starts to surface rust immediately which has to be cleaned up with some steel wool, then primed soon after. A bit of a pain, but not  a big deal.

With all that said, I will be exploring using other metals or having the steel copper coated, but that would be added cost and would have to be considered.

Craig






At 11:28 PM 9/26/2015, you wrote:
 

You're not going to really solder steel.   Typically steel is plated with copper if it is to be soldered, or if not plated, a copper based brazing rod, flux, and some heat to braze it.

-Bob

On Sat, Sep 26, 2015 at 9:17 PM, dar19904@yahoo.com [B9Builders] wrote:  
Would liquid solder work. You won't have to worry about trying to get solder to melt and burn anything.

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[Bob Darlington]

My Sanderson brain was copper plated steel.

On Sun, Sep 27, 2015 at 8:02 AM, Robert Hall oceanartscasino@yahoo.com [B9Builders] wrote:

Werent the original laser cut brains copper or brass, so they could be easily soldered together?

Sent from my iPad
On Sep 26, 2015, at 10:04 AM, Craig Reinbrecht craig@bex.net [B9Builders] wrote:


As I mentioned below, I can have the laser cut steel brains made, and sell them as kits that would need to be soldered together. This design utilizes the best research and source material we've ever had.

Also, If there is someone out there that would like to partner and do assembly... This could be a nice way for someone to make a few $ to fund their B9 project.

Anyone interested in this as a part? I don't think anyone is offering it right now...

Thanks,

Craig


At 09:53 AM 9/26/2015, you wrote:


Hi Ian,

Did you look in the Club Standard Online Blueprints page?
http://www.b9robotbuildersclub.com/tools/protected/reference/blueprints.html

There are excellent blueprints of the brain with dimensions, including the top view.

Just as with the R2 Builders and as you surely know the only way to make laser cutting reasonable is to have the parts done in quantities... which is why both clubs have vendors. Are you considering offering these parts to the club, or are you just planning to have one set made for yourself?

I don't have DXF files, but I do have the ability to have the Brain parts made. I would have to sell them as kits, unless there is someone out there that would like to partner and do the assembly... This could be a nice way for someone to make a few $ to fund their B9 project.

Craig




At 09:04 PM 9/24/2015, you wrote:


Hi



I have been thinking of making the brain section of a B9 again, as part of a restart of a B9 build.



I intend to make a torso from my mould again when I can.



I was just curious whether anyone has made any cad files of the brain section and any other parts.



For my R2 build I got a lot of parts laser cut and thought I could do the same with the B9.


Any directions would be great. I did look at the plans for the brain section and noticed there aren't any clear measurements to get the curve of the brain plate sides.



Regards



Ian

[Bob Darlington]

Eh, at least that's what my memory thinks. I can't swear to it. Here's a page with info on that old brain kit that talks specific recommended flux:
http://www.cruff.com/b9/Construction/Brain/

On Sun, Sep 27, 2015 at 10:05 AM, Bob Darlington wrote:
My Sanderson brain was copper plated steel.
On Sun, Sep 27, 2015 at 8:02 AM, Robert Hall oceanartscasino@yahoo.com [B9Builders] wrote:

Werent the original laser cut brains copper or brass, so they could be easily soldered together?

Sent from my iPad
On Sep 26, 2015, at 10:04 AM, Craig Reinbrecht craig@bex.net [B9Builders] wrote:


As I mentioned below, I can have the laser cut steel brains made, and sell them as kits that would need to be soldered together. This design utilizes the best research and source material we've ever had.

Also, If there is someone out there that would like to partner and do assembly... This could be a nice way for someone to make a few $ to fund their B9 project.

Anyone interested in this as a part? I don't think anyone is offering it right now...

Thanks,

Craig


At 09:53 AM 9/26/2015, you wrote:


Hi Ian,

Did you look in the Club Standard Online Blueprints page?
http://www.b9robotbuildersclub.com/tools/protected/reference/blueprints.html

There are excellent blueprints of the brain with dimensions, including the top view.

Just as with the R2 Builders and as you surely know the only way to make laser cutting reasonable is to have the parts done in quantities... which is why both clubs have vendors. Are you considering offering these parts to the club, or are you just planning to have one set made for yourself?

I don't have DXF files, but I do have the ability to have the Brain parts made. I would have to sell them as kits, unless there is someone out there that would like to partner and do the assembly... This could be a nice way for someone to make a few $ to fund their B9 project.

Craig




At 09:04 PM 9/24/2015, you wrote:


Hi



I have been thinking of making the brain section of a B9 again, as part of a restart of a B9 build.



I intend to make a torso from my mould again when I can.



I was just curious whether anyone has made any cad files of the brain section and any other parts.



For my R2 build I got a lot of parts laser cut and thought I could do the same with the B9.


Any directions would be great. I did look at the plans for the brain section and noticed there aren't any clear measurements to get the curve of the brain plate sides.



Regards



Ian

[Craig Reinbrecht]

Thanks for all the great discussion and interest in this!

After some more consideration and talking with some very experienced B9 Brain building experts , I will definitely be selling the Brain assembled and soldered, and may still offer a kit option for the very experienced.

My plan is to have something available before the end of the year... Stay tuned!

Craig



At 11:45 AM 9/27/2015, you wrote:

 

Hello Craig,

As you said, soldering this thin steel shouldn't be a problem. As with any soldering, surface preparation is key, and using rosin core solder and brush on flex is a great help.

You mentioned about cleanup and preventing rust afterwards. After cleaning up the flux afterwards, I was thinking that you might could use a product called "Rust Converter", by Klean Strip. The comments that it says about itself are :

dries to a hard, paintable primer surface
inhibits further corrosion and flash rust

I bought it at walmart and it was fairly inexpensive. I have used it before, and liked the results. You don't have to clean it perfect, as for as the rust, but you would need to clean away the flux. It goes on very thin, which is good for the final finish. A little goes a long way. Be sure to follow the instructions. As it says, it functions as a primer, so it can easily be painted with a finish coat.

This steel may be the best option as far as materials that can be soldered. It is a pretty durable material, for being so thin, and relatively light weight. Also, it is probably the best price of other materials. When I mentioned durable, I am mostly considering that time frame till it is installed in the bubble. It is probably pretty safe once it is installed.

thanks,

David

--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 9/27/15, Craig Reinbrecht craig@bex.net [B9Builders] wrote:

Subject: Re: [B9Builders] LASER CUT STEEL BRAINS... Anyone Interested?
To: B9Builders@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, September 27, 2015, 9:02 AM




Well, you CAN solder steel and every B9 steel brain that has
ever been
made in the last 20 years (probably 50 years) has been
soldered together.
I soldered my B9 Brain together and frankly didn't find
it that
difficult. The bond is excellent.


I also used to solder together my first generation steel
Programming
Bays. Again it worked beautifully.


It was recommended to me way back when to use the thin resin
core solder
with lead in it, that you could get from Radio Shack. I
believe I still
did use the brush on resin. That solder works and flows
great and I have
also used it on every electrical connection on my robot ever
since. Just
don't let your kids eat it.


The two biggest issues I found with soldering the steel
Brain is not the
soldering itself, it's:


1) Holding all the parts together in alignment tightly to
get a good
tight joint so they can be soldered. However, adding the
slots and tabs
in the design to hold everything together makes that part
much much
easier.


2) the cleanup after words. Once you apply heat to the steel
it starts to
surface rust immediately which has to be cleaned up with
some steel wool,
then primed soon after. A bit of a pain, but not   a big
deal.


With all that said, I will be exploring using other metals
or having the
steel copper coated, but that would be added cost and would
have to be
considered.


Craig










At 11:28 PM 9/26/2015, you wrote:

 


You're not going to really solder steel.   Typically
steel is plated
with copper if it is to be soldered, or if not plated, a
copper based
brazing rod, flux, and some heat to braze it.


-Bob


On Sat, Sep 26, 2015 at 9:17 PM,
dar19904@yahoo.com
[B9Builders]
<
B9Builders@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 



Would liquid solder work. You won't have to
worry about trying to get
solder to melt and burn anything.

















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[sjb0459]

You are right Bob.  I've got a Scott Sanderson brain and it is copper plated steel.  I had to use a very powerful soldering iron to heat the join to help the solder flow and it turned out very nice.
Steve