Re: [mg-tabc] Crank seals

[Peter Pleitner]

Hi Bill,

Don't remember what type of "glue" I used. Probably RTV (silicone) but
sparingly! Make sure the drain hole stays open, and that the cap does not
move when you tighten the four little bolts.

I use Redline's lighter MTL (manual trans lube) 75w80 in the transmission,
but 85w140 in the axle. The syncro rings are happier with this stuff.

Might be a good idea to coat the inside of the axle. I didn't. I did
however paint the inside of the engine, especially the sump, and
transmission with Glyptol (now hard to find, but Eastwood carries it). Or
brush-on Rustolium Damp Proof (rusty metal) primer, the brown stuff, works
well too. A lot of sumps sweat oil through the very porous aluminum,
probably the timing chain cover also. This coating also makes it nice and
clean, trapping any unwanted grit left over from foundry sand or cleaning,
and helps the oil flow better.

Don't forget to pack the oil pump to prime it. I used Vaseline. And don't
use synthetic in the engine until the rings are seated, but do liberally
coat the cam and followers with a high quality cam lube. I like light
weight oil to start a fresh engine because high circulation rate is
desireable to aid cooling of tight bearing surfaces.

Cheers, Peter


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Gardner [mailto:sbsbillgardner@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2000 11:33 AM
To: 'Peter Pleitner'
Subject: RE: [mg-tabc] Crank seals

Peter,

It sounds like you took the same approach I was going to take with my TB. A
few questions for you. What type of glue did you use on your rear cap? Did
you use any type of adhesive on the front seal? Are you using an 85/140
synthetic in the tranny and diff? If so, have you had any leaks from the
tranny or diff housing? I'm rebuilding my diff now and was considering
coating it with fuel tank sealant to keep the housing leaks to a minimum.
What do you think?

Regards,
Bill Gardner
TB #0263, Salmons #4689

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Pleitner [mailto:pleitner@dundee.net]
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2000 9:54 AM
To: T-ABCs List
Subject: [mg-tabc] Crank seals


Hi Whitworth Heads,

I found it amusing to read all the messages about XPAG crank seals last
week. Most of you know I'm not a rabid advocate of "originality". Possibly
my experience below will allow a couple of you to cut me some slack for my
custodianship in preserving my Bishop Cam steering "mechanism" in my garage.

Here is my crank seal experience: I removed the short index dowels from my
rear main oil slinger cap, but lapped, cleaned and carefully positioned then
glued this cap in place with a temporary 0.002 inch (if memory serves me
correctly) brass shim to position it. I ran my rebuilt engine in using
marginal quality thin oil without EP additive for the first hundred miles,
switched to proper oil for the next 1500 miles or so, then changed to 10W40
Redline synthetic oil. I had to re-adjust the idle down when I did this,
noticing an immediate increase in rpm as soon as the regular oil was
displaced by the synthetic. BTW I also use Redline products in the
transmission and rear axle.

I'm pleased to report that the rear main usually does not drip oil, except
after long hard runs, and then only leaves a spot about the size of a
quarter. I regard this as polite marking of territory and can be great fun
at a meet when you tape a target to the pavement. The front main seal does
not leak at all, except that oil residue collects on the sump in this
location. If the sealing surface on the front pulley is worn, it was
correctly advised to obtain a thin sleeve to repair this surface from a
bearing/seal supply house. This has the additional benefit of strengthening
a structurally weak spot directly above the key-way.

Cheers, Peter