Rear axle question

[davjak@aol.com]

Setting up the rear axle as per "TCs Forever" to eliminate gear oil wetted brake shoes, I can't seem to find a Tool supplier that has the correct socket to correctly loosen/tighten the castellated nuts that retain the axle bearings. British tool in Ohio is out of stock and theirs are for the replacement style nuts I am told. Replacement nuts from Moss are $49.95 per side Yikes! My castellated nuts (on the car) have not been attacked by an ape with a cold chisel so I figured I would re-use them after bearing replacement. Are the replacement hexagonal nuts the best option? Thanks, Dave TC5228,TC5041 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[ian thomson]

Use Bob or Rogers nuts (ahem) they are cheaper and foolproof. Ian Thomson. --- davjak@aol.com wrote:

> Setting up the rear axle as per "TCs Forever" to > eliminate gear oil wetted > brake shoes, I can't seem to find a Tool supplier > that has the correct socket > to correctly loosen/tighten the castellated nuts > that retain the axle > bearings. British tool in Ohio is out of stock and > theirs are for the replacement > style nuts I am told. Replacement nuts from Moss are > $49.95 per side Yikes! > My castellated nuts (on the car) have not been > attacked by an ape with a > cold chisel so I figured I would re-use them after > bearing replacement. Are the > replacement hexagonal nuts the best option? > Thanks, > Dave TC5228,TC5041 > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been > removed] > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > mg-tabc-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > > > >

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[Bob]

Dave, When I removed the original nuts from TC 3443 I needed the same tool that you are looking for. I ended up going to a local auto parts store and purchasing a socket used for the front axle nuts on a 4-wheel drive truck. The 4 prongs that engage the castellated portion of the nut were correctly spaced but I did have to work on the inside of the socket with a die grinder to get the walls of the socket opened up to the correct size to slip down over the nut. Not knowing what size I needed, I measured the nut (across the flats) and bought the socket that was the closest to the size I needed. (I just looked at the socket I have and it is not marked as to size.) I believe that this subject was discussed previously so there is probably more detailed information in the archives. After removing the nuts, I replaced axles and nuts with new ones made by Bob Grunau. His replacement nuts with built in seals take a standard sized socket available most places that sell tools. Bob McClaren TC 3443 Virginia Beach, VA, USA I

[ian thomson]

The time honoured tool for removing these is a drift...or a screwdriver and hammer...or a chisel.... Ian Thomson. --- Bob bobmgtc@cox.net> wrote:

> Dave, > > When I removed the original nuts from TC 3443 I > needed the same tool that > you are looking for. I ended up going to a local > auto parts store and > purchasing a socket used for the front axle nuts on > a 4-wheel drive truck. > The 4 prongs that engage the castellated portion of > the nut were correctly > spaced but I did have to work on the inside of the > socket with a die grinder > to get the walls of the socket opened up to the > correct size to slip down > over the nut. Not knowing what size I needed, I > measured the nut (across the > flats) and bought the socket that was the closest to > the size I needed. (I > just looked at the socket I have and it is not > marked as to size.) I > believe that this subject was discussed previously > so there is probably more > detailed information in the archives. > > After removing the nuts, I replaced axles and nuts > with new ones made by Bob > Grunau. His replacement nuts with built in seals > take a standard sized > socket available most places that sell tools. > > Bob McClaren > TC 3443 > Virginia Beach, VA, USA I > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > mg-tabc-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > > >

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[Mike Duvall]

Hi all, following Bob Grunau's advice from an email posting a few months ago, I pulled the diff out of my TA axle to check the pinion bearing. To my pleasant surprise, roller bearings had been installed and the unit showed little wear. I think it may have had the stronger axles installed as well because they look like a much newer material than I have seen in the past. However the rear hubs are full of grease on the bearing side. This struck me as odd. Shouldn't the rear axle oil be lubricating the rear bearings? Should I replace the grease or should I just clean it out? Thanks, Mike

[Roger Furneaux]

hi Mike - back in the "good old days" rear hubs had grease nipples, and they were filled with Castrol Heavy grease, which (alledgedly) stopped oil getting out of the axle. Modern all-purpose grease will not work as well and eventually oil will escape; new hubs do not have nipples, therefore not much grease but a lot of oil!!! Fitting lip-sealed hub nuts from myself or Bob will at least stop that, bearings only need enough grease to fill them (not a whole hub full) or can be greased-for-life shielded types. ocTagonally TCRoger Mike Duvall asked:

> Hi all, following Bob Grunau's advice from an email posting a few > months ago, I pulled the diff out of my TA axle to check the pinion > bearing. To my pleasant surprise, roller bearings had been installed > and the unit showed little wear. I think it may have had the stronger > axles installed as well because they look like a much newer material > than I have seen in the past. However the rear hubs are full of grease > on the bearing side. This struck me as odd. Shouldn't the rear axle > oil be lubricating the rear bearings? Should I replace the grease or > should I just clean it out?