avoiding exhaust leaks...

[davjak@aol.com]

I am sure that this has been reviewed in the past, but could not fine a clear answer in the email history section. What is the best and longest lasting cure for leaks at the exhaust manifold the head pipe gasket? I am replacing my original system with a Moss stainless steel system and would like to complete it once. I have heard of the use of MGB gasket-any good? and while we are on exhausts, Is jet hot coating the choice for the exhaust manifold? Thanks, Dave p.s. The cape Cod polish works great for the silver reflectors! Thanks, Ken [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[JohnHWSteedman@aol.com]

What a coincidence! I have just written the following for the next issue of the T-Register's magazine "Totally T-Type". Contact the register for a copy of the full article on www.tregister.org The Exhaust Mystery In my Notes from a Rebuild No.4 , I asked how the TC battery was meant to be fixed down. My second puzzle is: How is the exhaust down-pipe meant to connect to the down-pipe? Where does the funny circular cone fit? What is it meant to do? How does it help give you an airtight joint? I tried a million times in the sixties and never got it right. "Next time" I didn't bother to find out. At some time in the 33-year research period, I'd been given the following advice:- a) Throw away the cone b) Ensure the face of the exhaust manifold outlet is flat c) Assemble the exhaust system without the triangular copper/asbestos (?) gasket. Tighten up the three brass nuts fully, until the two triangular faces of the yoke and the manifold are flush. d) Spot weld the underside of the yoke to the down-pipe e) Take the whole system apart and weld the yoke to the down-pipe. Make sure you have an airtight joint right around. f) While you having the welding done, you can make sure the bell-housing strap is in the right place. g) Reassemble and tighten the brass nuts fully; this time using the exhaust gasket. Net result: a solid airtight joint, with the down-pipe at exactly the right angle Refinement Talking to David Butler, our TD/TF Registrar and enthusiastic TD racer, he told me that he had gone one further, by machining the yoke and the manifold surfaces flat and replacing the gasket with exhaust sealing compound. I will leave it to him to give us the precise details . John Steedman TC0301 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[tony goodall]

Dave I use an MGB gasket - simple, cheap, no leaks. Tony TC9825

On 2 May 2005, at 08:25, davjak@aol.com wrote: > I am sure that this has been reviewed in the past, but could not fine a > clear answer in the email history section. > What is the best and longest lasting cure for leaks at the exhaust > manifold > the head pipe gasket? I am replacing my original system with a Moss > stainless > steel system and would like to complete it once. > I have heard of the use of MGB gasket-any good? > and while we are on exhausts, Is jet hot coating the choice for the > exhaust > manifold? > Thanks, > Dave > p.s. The cape Cod polish works great for the silver reflectors! > Thanks, Ken > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > >

[1939mgtb]

MGB gasket. Best, Ray "Morology is our profession, our ONLY profession!"

----- Original Message ----- From: "tony goodall" tonygoodall@blueyonder.co.uk> To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 4:08 AM Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] avoiding exhaust leaks... > Dave > > I use an MGB gasket - simple, cheap, no leaks. > > Tony TC9825 > > > On 2 May 2005, at 08:25, davjak@aol.com wrote: > >> I am sure that this has been reviewed in the past, but could not fine a >> clear answer in the email history section. >> What is the best and longest lasting cure for leaks at the exhaust >> manifold >> the head pipe gasket? I am replacing my original system with a Moss >> stainless >> steel system and would like to complete it once. >> I have heard of the use of MGB gasket-any good? >> and while we are on exhausts, Is jet hot coating the choice for the >> exhaust >> manifold? >> Thanks, >> Dave >> p.s. The cape Cod polish works great for the silver reflectors! >> Thanks, Ken >> >> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >> >> >> >> >> Yahoo! Groups Links >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >

[fnitz]

Although, I have a good exhaust tight assembly without welding. I did throw away the cone but just bolted up a Moss SS exhaust pipe to the header. -----Original Message----- From: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of JohnHWSteedman@aol.com Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 12:32 AM To: DAVJAK@aol.com; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] avoiding exhaust leaks... What a coincidence! I have just written the following for the next issue of the T-Register's magazine "Totally T-Type". Contact the register for a copy of the full article on www.tregister.org The Exhaust Mystery In my Notes from a Rebuild No.4 , I asked how the TC battery was meant to be fixed down. My second puzzle is: How is the exhaust down-pipe meant to connect to the down-pipe? Where does the funny circular cone fit? What is it meant to do? How does it help give you an airtight joint? I tried a million times in the sixties and never got it right. "Next time" I didn't bother to find out. At some time in the 33-year research period, I'd been given the following advice:- a) Throw away the cone b) Ensure the face of the exhaust manifold outlet is flat c) Assemble the exhaust system without the triangular copper/asbestos (?) gasket. Tighten up the three brass nuts fully, until the two triangular faces of the yoke and the manifold are flush. d) Spot weld the underside of the yoke to the down-pipe e) Take the whole system apart and weld the yoke to the down-pipe. Make sure you have an airtight joint right around. f) While you having the welding done, you can make sure the bell-housing strap is in the right place. g) Reassemble and tighten the brass nuts fully; this time using the exhaust gasket. Net result: a solid airtight joint, with the down-pipe at exactly the right angle Refinement Talking to David Butler, our TD/TF Registrar and enthusiastic TD racer, he told me that he had gone one further, by machining the yoke and the manifold surfaces flat and replacing the gasket with exhaust sealing compound. I will leave it to him to give us the precise details.. John Steedman TC0301 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Yahoo! Groups Links