Lost right side drive

[dudespine]

Hi All, Yesterday I let off the clutch on 8122 a little too sharply while starting on a hill. A sharp clunk and then no drive. After a tow back home I jacked up the rear, started the car, and put it in gear. LR wheel rotates, RR not. When the LR is locked, RR again does not rotate. All is very quiet too, I don't hear anything rattling around. So, what are the inherent weak points to look at, and if it is the half shaft can any lister recommend upgraded parts? I've seen the locknut wrench on the web page...has anyone taken this design to production? Finally, do I need to do both sides? LR seems fine and leak free so I'd hate to disturb it. But it is 56 (leave Grandpa to his rest). Thanks, Mike

[Rick Waters]

Broken halfshaft. If it were my money (it's not!) I'd: 1. renew both halfshafts with tapered shafts made from better material 2. disassemble the diff unit to make sure nothing is causing a problem in that area; 3. Take the opportunity to see if you want to make changes to your final drive ratio. After all, it will be apart, and this is the chance to change to 4.625 gears in the stock diff carrier, or else try the Morris Minor (4.55) conversion. I've actually done all of the above to my car, and it made a great difference. I have no oil, ever, in my rear brakes; I have peace of mind from the better half shafts; and a car that's not only more fun to take on highway trips, but actually drives more pleasantly around town. Mine all started when the same thing happened to me, only it was the left half shaft, which a previous owner had welded to the hub! -TC 7881 dudespine mdudasik@optonline.net> wrote: Hi All, Yesterday I let off the clutch on 8122 a little too sharply while starting on a hill. A sharp clunk and then no drive. After a tow back home I jacked up the rear, started the car, and put it in gear. LR wheel rotates, RR not. When the LR is locked, RR again does not rotate. All is very quiet too, I don't hear anything rattling around. So, what are the inherent weak points to look at, and if it is the half shaft can any lister recommend upgraded parts? I've seen the locknut wrench on the web page...has anyone taken this design to production? Finally, do I need to do both sides? LR seems fine and leak free so I'd hate to disturb it. But it is 56 (leave Grandpa to his rest). Thanks, Mike Yahoo! Groups Links -Rick Waters --------------------------------- Post your free ad now! Yahoo! Canada Personals [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Bob Grunau]

I agree with everything Rick says. Likely broken axle. Could be a broken diff carrier or gears but not likely. So in addition I would: 1- Carefully inspect the rear hub splines to see they are not worn past their best time. If so, buy new tapered hubs and stronger/modern material race proved tapered axle shafts. 2- Strip the diff and replace the original bearings with tapered roller bearings. Likely the front double row ball pinion bearing brass cages have failed. 3-Replace the outer rear wheel bearings with double "sealed for life " new ball bearings. 4-Install hex bearing nuts complete with oil seals so you can properly tighten the wheel bearings to the axle tube. 5-Strip rear brake cylinders and possibly replace shoe linings if oil soaked. 6-Install new round and true alfin drums. I can supply all these parts and will forward you my MG Parts/Services list as a separate email. Regards, Bob Bob Grunau 150 Pinewood Trail, Mississauga, Ontario, Canada, L5G-2L1 905-274-4136 Broken halfshaft. If it were my money (it's not!) I'd: 1. renew both halfshafts with tapered shafts made from better material 2. disassemble the diff unit to make sure nothing is causing a problem in that area; 3. Take the opportunity to see if you want to make changes to your final drive ratio. After all, it will be apart, and this is the chance to change to 4.625 gears in the stock diff carrier, or else try the Morris Minor (4.55) conversion. I've actually done all of the above to my car, and it made a great difference. I have no oil, ever, in my rear brakes; I have peace of mind from the better half shafts; and a car that's not only more fun to take on highway trips, but actually drives more pleasantly around town. Mine all started when the same thing happened to me, only it was the left half shaft, which a previous owner had welded to the hub! -TC 7881 dudespine mdudasik@optonline.net> wrote: Hi All, Yesterday I let off the clutch on 8122 a little too sharply while starting on a hill. A sharp clunk and then no drive. After a tow back home I jacked up the rear, started the car, and put it in gear. LR wheel rotates, RR not. When the LR is locked, RR again does not rotate. All is very quiet too, I don't hear anything rattling around. So, what are the inherent weak points to look at, and if it is the half shaft can any lister recommend upgraded parts? I've seen the locknut wrench on the web page...has anyone taken this design to production? Finally, do I need to do both sides? LR seems fine and leak free so I'd hate to disturb it. But it is 56 (leave Grandpa to his rest). Thanks, Mike

[Gene Gillam]

Mike, I also agree with Rick - and I've used Bob Grunau's half shafts and bearing nuts on both of my TC's. Don't worry about oil getting to your brakes with these - my hubs are starting to rust they're so oil free now. Gene Gillam Saucier, MS -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.5 - Release Date: 4/7/2005