MPJG assembly

[Dean Jensen]

Hi Harry I am sort of working on a MPJG also, I have been using the torque setting for the XPAG, except for the head bolts. My reasoning was that most of the bolts, etc. were the same or similar as on the XPAG. The only place that would appear to be different is the head, and I would start at some setting less than the XPAG and see how it goes. (I have not got to that point yet) Cheers Dean -----Original Message----- From: harry van malder [mailto:harryvan@eresmas.com] Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 10:43 AM To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com Subject: [mg-tabc] MPJG assembly Dear group members Thanks for the information some gave me about this item. I want to tell you very briefly what happened to me .( sorry for the bad english, but this is the best I can) After buying my TA car, turned out that the engine block had cracks on different places.Being very worried about this,I already asked some advice to our list, with very poor results of answers, but I also understand that it is not so easy to resolve the problem of engine cracks by simple E-mail. After some telephone calls to one of our major, very known , and very respected suppliers in the U:K: I got the answer: NO guarantee, but we had in the past some good results, not just for cracked engines, but even for engines almost falling apart. I should take the risk. As I already bought for thousands of pounds spare parts to these people,all of them to my full satisfaction by delivery, logically, I toke the risk, instead of putting in my car the not original XPAG engine. This is where it went wrong. After six months,( I must admit,they were not in a hurry, neither was I), I got the answer that my MPJG engine was inreparable, and that I should think about the XPAG engine alternative. Of course, to come to this result and for doing a pressure test, they send me an invoice of 600 pounds .By asking more questions, they could supplie me a used XPAG engine for the price of 10.000 pounds.This was so expensive because I also needed all the items around, wich were starter motor, clutch, gearbox, etc. They also would buy( take over) my old MPJG engine, including this so called expensive parts wich I had, all in perfect condition and original, for 200 pounds. I did not agree with that.I asked them to send my engine back( wich they did after saying that the sending back were just more costs and they also could throw the engine at the garbage, as well as I). Now finally the engine came back, thanks to an UK friend who went over there and toke it out of their hands. I noticed that it was welded on 5 different places( I must say, beautifull work, done by a person with good skills). As the head was off, I putted water into the water gallerys, putted pressure on it,and the water stayed in for weeks without lowering and flowing into the carter, wich was my former problem. As I see it now, I think that my engine is repared.( could this maybe te reason of not being very willing to send it back, at the end you don't know anymore what to think about) This is also why i want to assembly it again and see what happens. I am only risking my work and time) Therefore I asked to you listers the right torque settings of the bolts i asked in my former mail.( if of all listers, there is no one who has the right settings, then I doubt about the quality of the list) If nobody can tell me these, then I will assembly it on the way of old days, by trying and feeling and touching, and seeing what happens. The all story once again learned me that I should have a little bit more confidence in myself, instead of getting confidence in people who know less about it than myself. Maybe this is a warning to other people , just as I, who put their trust in the so called specialists, who declare that they are dedicated to the old MG's. The experience so far learned me that they are just dedicated to my money, and nothing more than that. All the prices I mentioned I can prove by invoices an faxes send to me. Please send me the settings, if anyone knows them, quickly because i will assembly my engine tomorrow. I don't want to wait longer. After two years wasted by specialists , I want to drive my car. Thanks a lot Harry [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Yahoo! Groups Links

[Diecuts@aol.com]

Hi Harry, I know I am jumping into this thread late, but for engine cracks I have had great success with metal stitching. A company called Locknstitch, at www.locknstitch.com, provides everything needed to do a professional job with you doing the labor. Heads, Blocks, no problem. A 15" crack in the waterjacket of my SA cost $400 to repair this way. Next crack will be less as I do not need to buy all of he taps, guides , etc again. Once you have the basic taps and guides, it runs about $3 per inch to fix most engine and head cracks according to their cost sheets. So, if some of the welds do not work, this could be an alternate fix. If you really need a XPAG engine with all of the trimmings , for 10,000 pounds ($20,000 USD), I will pull the one out of TC 0780 and ship it to you. . It runs fine. Happy Good Friday Cheers, Lee Jacobsen, TA2969 tickford. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[David Lodge]

Hello Harry, It seems that we have run across the same so-called "MG specialists"! I could write a book! Regards, David Lodge ---- ORIGINAL MESSAGE ----- From: "harry van malder" harryvan@eresmas.com> To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com Subject: [mg-tabc] MPJG assembly Date: 24.3.2005 - 17:46:50

> > Dear group members > > Thanks for the information some gave me about this > item. > I want to tell you very briefly what happened to me .( > sorry for the bad english, but this is the best I can) > After buying my TA car, turned out that the engine > block had cracks on different places.Being very > worried about this,I already asked some advice to our > list, with very poor results of answers, but I also > understand that it is not so easy to resolve the > problem of engine cracks by simple E-mail. > After some telephone calls to one of our major, very > known , and very respected suppliers in the U:K: I > got the answer: NO guarantee, but we had in the past > some good results, not just for cracked engines, but > even for engines almost falling apart. I should take > the risk. > As I already bought for thousands of pounds spare parts > to these people,all of them to my full satisfaction by > delivery, logically, I toke the risk, instead of > putting in my car the not original XPAG engine. > This is where it went wrong. > After six months,( I must admit,they were not in a > hurry, neither was I), I got the answer that my MPJG > engine was inreparable, and that I should think about > the XPAG engine alternative. Of course, to come to > this result and for doing a pressure test, they send > me an invoice of 600 pounds .By asking more questions, > they could supplie me a used XPAG engine for the price > of 10.000 pounds.This was so expensive because I also > needed all the items around, wich were starter motor, > clutch, gearbox, etc. > They also would buy( take over) my old MPJG engine, > including this so called expensive parts wich I had, > all in perfect condition and original, for 200 pounds. > > I did not agree with that.I asked them to send my > engine back( wich they did after saying that the > sending back were just more costs and they also could > throw the engine at the garbage, as well as I). > Now finally the engine came back, thanks to an UK > friend who went over there and toke it out of their > hands. I noticed that it was welded on 5 different > places( I must say, beautifull work, done by a person > with good skills). As the head was off, I putted water > into the water gallerys, putted pressure on it,and the > water stayed in for weeks without lowering and flowing > into the carter, wich was my former problem. > As I see it now, I think that my engine is repared.( > could this maybe te reason of not being very willing > to send it back, at the end you don't know anymore > what to think about) This is also why i want to > assembly it again and see what happens. I am only > risking my work and time) > Therefore I asked to you listers the right torque > settings of the bolts i asked in my former mail.( if > of all listers, there is no one who has the right > settings, then I doubt about the quality of the list) > If nobody can tell me these, then I will assembly it on > the way of old days, by trying and feeling and > touching, and seeing what happens. > The all story once again learned me that I should have > a little bit more confidence in myself, instead of > getting confidence in people who know less about it > than myself. > Maybe this is a warning to other people , just as I, > who put their trust in the so called specialists, who > declare that they are dedicated to the old MG's. The > experience so far learned me that they are just > dedicated to my money, and nothing more than that. > All the prices I mentioned I can prove by invoices an > faxes send to me. > > Please send me the settings, if anyone knows them, > quickly because i will assembly my engine tomorrow. > I don't want to wait longer. After two years wasted by > specialists , I want to drive my car. > > Thanks a lot > Harry > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > >

-- Akcni unorova nabidka "3 za cenu 1"! Ziskejte VOLNY ADSL 512/128 3GB za cenu 1GB! http://adsl.volny.cz

[Dean Jensen]

Hi Harry I agree with what Brian said about the head bolts torque. Was looking thru some stuff last night for something else, along the same line. The only thing I saw on the MPJG head was "Use the standard ring-spanner having a leverage of about six inches, and apply plenty of force". I am assuming they are referring to the 6 inch ring spanner in the tool kit, it has a rather small handle on it, and really if you subtract the ring you really have only a little more than 5 inches. I do not think you probably could put much more than 50 lbs of force on it considering the size of the handle, which would be something less than 25 lbs of torque at the nut. Of course using an extension you could get more, but just as it is, a normal person, using only his fingers, not the heel of this hand, would have a hard time getting much more torque than this. Go with what Brian said. Cheers Dean [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[ROSS TAYLOR]

G'day Down here in there is a Company advertising XPAG blocks with pistons , .030 and .100 oversized bores at AUD $ 950.00 and .060 at $1350.00 Ross in Tea Gardens

> >Hi Harry, > >I know I am jumping into this thread late, but for engine cracks I have had >great success with metal stitching. A company called Locknstitch, at >www.locknstitch.com, provides everything needed to do a professional job >with you >doing the labor. Heads, Blocks, no problem. A 15" crack in the >waterjacket of my >SA cost $400 to repair this way. Next crack will be less as I do not need >to buy all of he taps, guides , etc again. Once you have the basic taps >and >guides, it runs about $3 per inch to fix most engine and head cracks >according >to their cost sheets. > >So, if some of the welds do not work, this could be an alternate fix. If >you >really need a XPAG engine with all of the trimmings , for 10,000 pounds >($20,000 USD), I will pull the one out of TC 0780 and ship it to you. . > It >runs fine. > >Happy Good Friday > >Cheers, Lee Jacobsen, TA2969 tickford. > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >

[harry van malder]

Dear listers Due to computer problems, I could not answer sooner. Thank you all for the nice answers and reactions on my question. Most of them had a return question, mostly to give to the group the right settings, and for knowing who wanted to strip me.The settings I got from Ray were: Cylinder head stud nuts- 42 Connecting rod big end bolts- 27 Main bearing caps-62 Gudgeon pin clamp screw-33 ( I think this is a later number, as the text says merely "sufficiently tight".) A lot of people wrote that the settings are quiet similar to the ones of XPAG, wich seems to turn out right. I don't want to put the name of the supplier at the list, because it looks too much as a personal revenge, but believe me, it was one of our most respected suppliers, who always treated me well before and who I trusted. This makes the pain double hard.There are too much thingd still to be cleared up.I let you all know at the right time. Other question: With the rear end plate off, in between the end of the crankshaft and the camshaft is a hole of about 1 inch.For what does this serve?The only reason I can see is to bring oil to tht clutch, as I believe that this clutch oil supplie should be lower placed .If this explanation is not clear enough, I can send a picture off list to everybody who can help me. Anyway, you could do me a favor by telling me exactly from and to where the clutch oil is coming in and out of the carter. Thanks again Harry [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]