Grill shell medallion

[MARION]

Has anyone had a problem keeping their medallion on the grill shell? I lost one sometime back and replaced it with one I got  from From the Frame Up, but after installing it and driving it fell off, this time in the garage rather than who knows where. I didn't overly tighten it, but am thinking the bonding between the stud and the medallion maybe couldn't take the heat. So I am wondering does anyone know of a good way to attach the medallion to the grill shell with an adhesive like JB Weld or some kind of epoxy? I would rather not take the radiator etc. out and do it all over again.

Marion Moll

TC 20219

Cedar Crest, NM

[diecuts2333]

Marion, I had the same problem, one radiator emblem from Moss......just fell off, the bond for the stud failed.   The fix for me was to use some appliqu pressure sensitive adhesive foam, around 1mm thick,  that I sell to many of the car companies to hold their logos on, (ie the Ford oval) and holds on the side moldings etc.  made my 3M and others.   Here is a Amazon link for stuff very similar......  https://www.amazon.com/3M-08069-Press-P ... EWDJW> Most PSAs like above  are designed to be somewhat removable during application, a light tackiness,  but after they are in place for a day or two, they set up and cure, and you will need a chisel to get it off.! Cheers, Lee Jacobsen, Dearborn, MI  TC0780 -----Original Message----- From: MARION marionmoll7@msn.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> To: mg-tabc mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thu, Aug 9, 2018 12:56 pm Subject: [mg-tabc] Grill shell medallion #ygrps-yiv-2073502741 #ygrps-yiv-2073502741AOLMsgPart_2_e2631b3f-2cdf-4023-bf78-cc32aad97f0d td{color:black;}#ygrps-yiv-2073502741 .ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolReplacedBody .ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolmail_ygrp-photo-title{clear:both;font-size:smaller;height:15px;overflow:hidden;text-align:center;width:75px;}#ygrps-yiv-2073502741 .ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolReplacedBody div.ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolmail_ygrp-photo{background-position:center;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-color:white;border:1px solid black;height:62px;width:62px;}#ygrps-yiv-2073502741 .ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolReplacedBody div.ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolmail_photo-title a, #ygrps-yiv-2073502741 .ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolReplacedBody div.ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolmail_photo-title a:active, #ygrps-yiv-2073502741 .ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolReplacedBody div.ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolmail_photo-title a:hover, #ygrps-yiv-2073502741 .ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolReplacedBody div.ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolmail_photo-title a:visited {text-decoration:none;}#ygrps-yiv-2073502741 .ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolReplacedBody div.ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolmail_attach-table div.ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolmail_attach-row {clear:both;}#ygrps-yiv-2073502741 .ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolReplacedBody div.ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolmail_attach-table div.ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolmail_attach-row div {float:left;}#ygrps-yiv-2073502741 .ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolReplacedBody p {clear:both;padding:15px 0 3px 0;overflow:hidden;}#ygrps-yiv-2073502741 .ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolReplacedBody div.ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolmail_ygrp-file {width:30px;}#ygrps-yiv-2073502741 .ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolReplacedBody div.ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolmail_attach-table div.ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolmail_attach-row div div a {text-decoration:none;}#ygrps-yiv-2073502741 .ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolReplacedBody div.ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolmail_attach-table div.ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolmail_attach-row div div span {font-weight:normal;}#ygrps-yiv-2073502741 .ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolReplacedBody div.ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolmail_ygrp-file-title {font-weight:bold;}#ygrps-yiv-2073502741 #ygrps-yiv-2073502741AOLMsgPart_2_e2631b3f-2cdf-4023-bf78-cc32aad97f0d td{color:black;}#ygrps-yiv-2073502741 .ygrps-yiv-2073502741aolReplacedBody P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;} Has anyone had a problem keeping their medallion on the grill shell? I lost one sometime back and replaced it with one I got  from From the Frame Up, but after installing it and driving it fell off, this time in the garage rather than who knows where. I didn't overly tighten it, but am thinking the bonding between the stud and the medallion maybe couldn't take the heat. So I am wondering does anyone know of a good way to attach the medallion to the grill shell with an adhesive like JB Weld or some kind of epoxy? I would rather not take the radiator etc. out and do it all over again. Marion Moll TC 20219 Cedar Crest, NM

[John Seim]

The original medallions had the flat head machine screw cast into the medallion.The replacements have the flat head machine screw soldered, or otherwise affixed to the back of the medallion. I use three flat washers to install the medallion. A #10, #14, and a #20.Stack them on the cone of the machine screw, using the largest first.When you tighten, you are now tightening on the shoulder of the flat head machine screw. John SeimIrvine, CA 

On Aug 9, 2018, at 9:56 AM, MARION marionmoll7@msn.com [mg-tabc] wrote: Has anyone had a problem keeping their medallion on the grill shell? I lost one sometime back and replaced it with one I got  from From the Frame Up, but after installing it and driving it fell off, this time in the garage rather than who knows where. I didn't overly tighten it, but am thinking the bonding between the stud and the medallion maybe couldn't take the heat. So I am wondering does anyone know of a good way to attach the medallion to the grill shell with an adhesive like JB Weld or some kind of epoxy? I would rather not take the radiator etc. out and do it all over again. Marion MollTC 20219Cedar Crest, NM

[Roger Furneaux]

hi Marion - they probably came from the same supplier! Obviously modern manufacturing is not up to the standards of the past. I have don't a new one, but an original I have here (it normally sits on the kitchen windowsill) has a threaded stud with a large cylindrical boss/head. This is silver soldered or brazed to the badge - no fancy glues in those days! The other problem with repros is the colour, I have seen them in orange and reddish brown - they should be red and cream. oc[b]T[/b]agonally Roger

On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 6:09 PM, diecuts@aol.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u] Marion, I had the same problem, one radiator emblem from Moss......just fell off, the bond for the stud failed. The fix for me was to use some appliqu pressure sensitive adhesive foam, around 1mm thick, that I sell to many of the car companies to hold their logos on, (ie the Ford oval) and holds on the side moldings etc. made my 3M and others. Here is a Amazon link for stuff very similar...... https://www.amazon.com/3M- 08069-Press-Place-Adhesive/dp/ B000PEWDJW Most PSAs like above are designed to be somewhat removable during application, a light tackiness, but after they are in place for a day or two, they set up and cure, and you will need a chisel to get it off.! Cheers, Lee Jacobsen, Dearborn, MI TC0780 -----Original Message----- From: MARION marionmoll7@msn.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> To: mg-tabc mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thu, Aug 9, 2018 12:56 pm Subject: [mg-tabc] Grill shell medallion Has anyone had a problem keeping their medallion on the grill shell? I lost one sometime back and replaced it with one I got from From the Frame Up, but after installing it and driving it fell off, this time in the garage rather than who knows where. I didn't overly tighten it, but am thinking the bonding between the stud and the medallion maybe couldn't take the heat. So I am wondering does anyone know of a good way to attach the medallion to the grill shell with an adhesive like JB Weld or some kind of epoxy? I would rather not take the radiator etc. out and do it all over again. Marion Moll TC 20219 Cedar Crest, NM

[David Lodge]

It's quite a feat to tighten them without cracking the enamel, which is fragile stuff at best!

On 9 August 2018 at 11:47, John Seim kingseim@earthlink.net [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u] The original medallions had the flat head machine screw cast into the medallion.The replacements have the flat head machine screw soldered, or otherwise affixed to the back of the medallion. I use three flat washers to install the medallion. A #10, #14, and a #20.Stack them on the cone of the machine screw, using the largest first.When you tighten, you are now tightening on the shoulder of the flat head machine screw. John SeimIrvine, CA On Aug 9, 2018, at 9:56 AM, MARION marionmoll7@msn.com [mg-tabc] wrote: Has anyone had a problem keeping their medallion on the grill shell? I lost one sometime back and replaced it with one I got from From the Frame Up, but after installing it and driving it fell off, this time in the garage rather than who knows where. I didn't overly tighten it, but am thinking the bonding between the stud and the medallion maybe couldn't take the heat. So I am wondering does anyone know of a good way to attach the medallion to the grill shell with an adhesive like JB Weld or some kind of epoxy? I would rather not take the radiator etc. out and do it all over again. Marion MollTC 20219Cedar Crest, NM

[David Lodge]

I am really reluctant to take issue with so distinguished an authority on things TC as your goodself, Roger, but surely the badges should be the traditional MG coffee and cream? I have half-a dozen here, from the original Joe Fray's of Brumagem to some very mediocre Seventies repros and coffee and cream they are without exception. The red and cream came in with the TD, I think. As to the fixing, there certainly SHOULD be a boss or sleeve where the bolt meets the back of the badge, but I've never seen one, because what happens is that the bolt is frequently over-tightened pulling the back of the badge towards the radiator shell causing the enamel to crack. (Ask me how I know!). Mind you, there is a fairly hefty boss on the back of the spare-wheel medallion, and even that is prone to cracking if you're not careful and re-enamelling is an expensive business these days! Best from Lodge, TC 1704 in hot and humid Vancouver.

On 9 August 2018 at 12:41, Roger Furneaux roger.46tc@gmail.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u] hi Marion - they probably came from the same supplier! Obviously modern manufacturing is not up to the standards of the past. I have don't a new one, but an original I have here (it normally sits on the kitchen windowsill) has a threaded stud with a large cylindrical boss/head. This is silver soldered or brazed to the badge - no fancy glues in those days! The other problem with repros is the colour, I have seen them in orange and reddish brown - they should be red and cream. oc[b]T[/b]agonally Roger On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 6:09 PM, diecuts@aol.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u] Marion, I had the same problem, one radiator emblem from Moss......just fell off, the bond for the stud failed. The fix for me was to use some appliqu pressure sensitive adhesive foam, around 1mm thick, that I sell to many of the car companies to hold their logos on, (ie the Ford oval) and holds on the side moldings etc. made my 3M and others. Here is a Amazon link for stuff very similar...... https://www.amazon.com/3M-080 69-Press-Place-Adhesive/dp/B00 0PEWDJW Most PSAs like above are designed to be somewhat removable during application, a light tackiness, but after they are in place for a day or two, they set up and cure, and you will need a chisel to get it off.! Cheers, Lee Jacobsen, Dearborn, MI TC0780 -----Original Message----- From: MARION marionmoll7@msn.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> To: mg-tabc mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thu, Aug 9, 2018 12:56 pm Subject: [mg-tabc] Grill shell medallion Has anyone had a problem keeping their medallion on the grill shell? I lost one sometime back and replaced it with one I got from From the Frame Up, but after installing it and driving it fell off, this time in the garage rather than who knows where. I didn't overly tighten it, but am thinking the bonding between the stud and the medallion maybe couldn't take the heat. So I am wondering does anyone know of a good way to attach the medallion to the grill shell with an adhesive like JB Weld or some kind of epoxy? I would rather not take the radiator etc. out and do it all over again. Marion Moll TC 20219 Cedar Crest, NM

[Steve S]

I haven't found any reason to tighten the badges any more than necessary to keep them from moving on their own. Mine (an older Moss repro) is on just a bit more than hand tight and has never moved or come off. I think I either used a lock washer on back or maybe it was a drop of blue locktite. It was over a decade ago so I can't remember exactly. Just thinking maybe people are over-tightening the badges and breaking the studs? - Steve Simmons, TC8975 On 8/11/2018 12:26 AM, David Lodge emmgeeteesee@gmail.com [mg-tabc] wrote:

I am really reluctant to take issue with so distinguished an authority on things TC as your goodself, Roger, but surely the badges should be the traditional MG coffee and cream? I have half-a dozen here, from the original Joe Fray's of Brumagem to some very mediocre Seventies repros and coffee and cream they are without exception. The red and cream came in with the TD, I think. As to the fixing, there certainly SHOULD be a boss or sleeve where the bolt meets the back of the badge, but I've never seen one, because what happens is that the bolt is frequently over-tightened pulling the back of the badge towards the radiator shell causing the enamel to crack. (Ask me how I know!). Mind you, there is a fairly hefty boss on the back of the spare-wheel medallion, and even that is prone to cracking if you're not careful and re-enamelling is an expensive business these days! Best from Lodge, TC 1704 in hot and humid Vancouver. On 9 August 2018 at 12:41, Roger Furneaux roger.46tc@gmail.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote: hi Marion - they probably came from the same supplier! Obviously modern manufacturing is not up to the standards of the past. I have don't a new one, but an original I have here (it normally sits on the kitchen windowsill) has a threaded stud with a large cylindrical boss/head. This is silver soldered or brazed to the badge - no fancy glues in those days! The other problem with repros is the colour, I have seen them in orange and reddish brown - they should be red and cream. oc[b]T[/b]agonally Roger On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 6:09 PM, diecuts@aol.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Marion, I had the same problem, one radiator emblem from Moss......just fell off, the bond for the stud failed. The fix for me was to use some appliqu pressure sensitive adhesive foam, around 1mm thick, that I sell to many of the car companies to hold their logos on, (ie the Ford oval) and holds on the side moldings etc. made my 3M and others. Here is a Amazon link for stuff very similar...... https://www.amazon.com/3M-080 69-Press-Place-Adhesive/dp/B00 0PEWDJW Most PSAs like above are designed to be somewhat removable during application, a light tackiness, but after they are in place for a day or two, they set up and cure, and you will need a chisel to get it off.! Cheers, Lee Jacobsen, Dearborn, MI TC0780 -----Original Message----- From: MARION marionmoll7@msn.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> To: mg-tabc mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thu, Aug 9, 2018 12:56 pm Subject: [mg-tabc] Grill shell medallion Has anyone had a problem keeping their medallion on the grill shell? I lost one sometime back and replaced it with one I got from From the Frame Up, but after installing it and driving it fell off, this time in the garage rather than who knows where. I didn't overly tighten it, but am thinking the bonding between the stud and the medallion maybe couldn't take the heat. So I am wondering does anyone know of a good way to attach the medallion to the grill shell with an adhesive like JB Weld or some kind of epoxy? I would rather not take the radiator etc. out and do it all over again. Marion Moll TC 20219 Cedar Crest, NM

[Stephen D Stierman]

I noted that some of these badges are not quite the correct shape to lie flat against the false nose and allow a gap between the two.  Perhaps people are over tightening to lessen the gap?  I backed mine with a thin piece of black rubber trimmed to the exact size of the badge.  This  does away with the gap and is virtually undetectable between the badge and the chrome front when gently snugged up.Steve TC2911 From: "Steve S mail@mgnuts.com [mg-tabc]" mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> [b]To:[/b] MG-TABC mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2018 3:32 AM [b]Subject:[/b] Re: Fwd: [mg-tabc] Grill shell medallion   I haven't found any reason to tighten the badges any more than necessary to keep them from moving on their own.  Mine (an older Moss repro) is on just a bit more than hand tight and has never moved or come off.  I think I either used a lock washer on back or maybe it was a drop of blue locktite.  It was over a decade ago so I can't remember exactly.  Just thinking maybe people are over-tightening the badges and breaking the studs? - Steve Simmons, TC8975 On 8/11/2018 12:26 AM, David Lodge emmgeeteesee@gmail.com [mg-tabc] wrote:

  I am really reluctant to take issue with so distinguished an authority on things TC as your goodself, Roger, but surely the badges should be the traditional MG coffee and cream?  I have half-a dozen here, from the original Joe Fray's of Brumagem to some very mediocre Seventies repros and coffee and cream they are without exception.  The red and cream came in with the TD, I think. As to the fixing, there certainly SHOULD be a boss or sleeve where the bolt meets the back of the badge, but I've never seen one, because what happens is that the bolt is frequently over-tightened pulling the back of the badge towards the radiator shell causing the enamel to crack. (Ask me how I know!). Mind you, there is a fairly hefty boss on the back of the spare-wheel medallion, and even that is prone to cracking if you're not careful and re-enamelling is an expensive business these days! Best from Lodge, TC 1704 in hot and humid Vancouver. On 9 August 2018 at 12:41, Roger Furneaux roger.46tc@gmail.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:   hi Marion - they probably came from  the same supplier! Obviously modern manufacturing is not up to the standards of the past. I have don't a new one, but an original I have here (it normally sits on the kitchen windowsill) has  a threaded stud with a large cylindrical boss/head. This is silver soldered or brazed to the badge - no fancy glues in those days! The other problem with repros is the colour, I have seen them in orange and reddish brown - they should be red and cream. oc[b]T[/b]agonally Roger On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 6:09 PM, diecuts@aol.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:   Marion, I had the same problem, one radiator emblem from Moss......just fell off, the bond for the stud failed.   The fix for me was to use some appliqu pressure sensitive adhesive foam, around 1mm thick,  that I sell to many of the car companies to hold their logos on, (ie the Ford oval) and holds on the side moldings etc.  made my 3M and others.   Here is a Amazon link for stuff very similar......  https://www.amazon.com/3M-080 69-Press-Place-Adhesive/dp/B00 0PEWDJW Most PSAs like above  are designed to be somewhat removable during application, a light tackiness,  but after they are in place for a day or two, they set up and cure, and you will need a chisel to get it off.! Cheers, Lee Jacobsen, Dearborn, MI  TC0780 -----Original Message----- From: MARION marionmoll7@msn.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> To: mg-tabc mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thu, Aug 9, 2018 12:56 pm Subject: [mg-tabc] Grill shell medallion Has anyone had a problem keeping their medallion on the grill shell? I lost one sometime back and replaced it with one I got  from From the Frame Up, but after installing it and driving it fell off, this time in the garage rather than who knows where. I didn't overly tighten it, but am thinking the bonding between the stud and the medallion maybe couldn't take the heat. So I am wondering does anyone know of a good way to attach the medallion to the grill shell with an adhesive like JB Weld or some kind of epoxy? I would rather not take the radiator etc. out and do it all over again. Marion Moll TC 20219 Cedar Crest, NM

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[Jean Vignau]

I have always heard that MG colours were bread and butter, as TB0592 s badge is. Jean in Gascony

[CHARLES HUGHES]

They were brown on cream - all the way up until the TD MK II.  That one had black on white badging, which carried over to the TF.  The red on white or red on silver is much later - MGF and late model saloons and estates, in fact! - Mike Hughes  - -  Ta 0512 On Saturday, August 11, 2018 11:09 AM, "'Jean Vignau' jeanvignau@orange.fr [mg-tabc]" mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:   I have always heard that MG colours were bread and butter, as TB0592 s badge is. 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