Pinned Ammeter

Andrea VILLA
Posts: 47
Joined: Sat Dec 24, 2016 3:16 am

Re: Pinned Ammeter

Post by Andrea VILLA » Mon Nov 06, 2017 11:01 am

Someone successfully transferred the electromechanical components from a RB106 to the RF91 without problems  they are approx the same and have the same working principle and  NO problems of Positive or Negative   ground Diode and Electronics was at the adventI don't know the J2 electromechanical Volt Regulator BUT probably the same  change  is possibleRB106 is already available at good price in UK (probably made in INDIA) GBP27+VAT* shipmentalso RF95 are already sell https://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=1&pgCode=084&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Control+Boxes&agCode=0450&agName=Control+Boxes%2FRegulators I haven't any agreement with Holden Co Ltd The advantage is a better epoca compliance and a strong old machinery workingElectronic on our olds cars- also that well hidden,- can have some problems and must be well protectedfrom the troubles coming from the  oldest DynamoThis oldest LUCAS manual can helps someonehttp://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/lts_otcc/Session5_GeneratorControl.pdf    Il Luned 6 Novembre 2017 14:51, "Peter Mond tangous1@yahoo.com [mg-tabc]" mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> ha scritto:   Hi MikeYes you are right polarity is of an essence. Need to make sure. Will ask Doug if he carries either one.ThanksPeter Peter Mond On Nov 6, 2017, at 5:56 AM, Michael Leckstein MGLeckstein@monmouth.com> wrote:
TC is positive ground, the J2 is negative ground, unless the polarity of either one is changed. Diode units are made either way. But you have to order the correct polarity.  I am sure Doug can supply you with one or get either one.  Interesting to note that I have an MG friend who is an electrical engineer. He built a diode cut out for my J2 without a regulator but fused it at 8 amps. The original 3rd brush was retained to regulate output. It seems to work fine and is safer than the original cut out which can freeze. I will ,when I get around to it, install a unit like Doug sells to replace the 3rd brush. Mike  [b]From:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]Peter Mond tangous1@yahoo.com [mg-tabc] [b]Sent:[/b] Sunday, November 05, 2017 9:04 PM [b]To:[/b] Doug Pelton [b]Cc:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter   Are you able to use the same solid state regulator of a MG TC as for a MG J2 1933 ?Peter Mond On Nov 5, 2017, at 7:58 PM, 'Doug Pelton' doug@fromtheframeup.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:  Duncan and all, Howard s failed unit was an original RF95/2 and not a solid state unit.   I don t know what the history of the unit is.  However, I can tell that is had be refurbished by the adjustment screws which had a new coat of red paint on them which is normally done to see if anyone has tampered with the adjustment. I am a very strong advocate of the new solid state regulators that now have.  These are original cores that have had their internals replaced with smart protective circuitry.  I recommend using nothing else. Regards, [b][i]Doug Pelton,[/i][/b] ProprietorFrom The Frame Up480-588-8185For Fastest Service:  order@fromtheframeup.comLike us on FACEBOOK! See us on YouTUBE! www.FromTheFrameUp.com [b]From:[/b] Howard Shempp [hshempp@gmail.com] [b]Sent:[/b] Sunday, November 5, 2017 3:44 PM [b]To:[/b] Doug Pelton doug@fromtheframeup.com> [b]Subject:[/b] Fwd: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter Inquiring minds want to know  ---------- Forwarded message --------- From: Duncan morelists@yahoo.com> Date: Sun, Nov 5, 2017 at 10:18 AM Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter To: Howard Shempp hshempp@gmail.com> So Doug replaced the failed unit he sold you with a new one, or the failed unit was from another source? Any info on the failed unit would be of interest. Thanks- Duncan TC9877 -------------------------------------------- On Fri, 11/3/17, Howard Shempp hshempp@gmail.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:  Subject: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter  To: "T-ABC List" mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com>  Date: Friday, November 3, 2017, 1:13 PM           As you guys diagnosed, new solid state  regulator from Doug Pelton (From the Frame Up) straightened  everything out.  Battery returned to Summit Racing which  was delivered in two days.  Both very good companies with  terrific service.. Thanks all. 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Steve S
Posts: 107
Joined: Tue Sep 20, 2005 2:56 pm

Re: Pinned Ammeter

Post by Steve S » Mon Nov 06, 2017 11:39 am

I'm in the same camp... I tend to avoid electronics in my old cars. The electric / mechanical parts give lots of warning if something is amiss, whereas electronic parts typically fail very suddenly and without warning. Maybe I'm in the minority, but my original Lucas regulator has been going for 30,000 miles so far with no sign of impending issues. I've had one go out of spec on my MGA, but a very simple adjustment and cleaning put it back in order. And in my daily driver MGB I had one start to act up after about 70,000 miles, and was rebuilt locally and now back in the car. I don't have a problem with anyone using electronics, but personally I prefer the old tech predictability more than modern stuff. At my job I deal with advanced electronics on a daily basis, so it's really nice to have my M.G.s to help me escape that! - Steve Simmons, TC8975 On 11/6/2017 11:01 AM, Andrea VILLA searunner99@yahoo.com [mg-tabc] wrote:
Someone successfully transferred the electromechanical components from a RB106 to the RF91 without problems they are approx the same and have the same working principle and NO problems of Positive or Negative ground Diode and Electronics was at the advent I don't know the J2 electromechanical Volt Regulator BUT probably the same change is possible RB106 is already available at good price in UK (probably made in INDIA) GBP27+VAT* shipment also RF95 are already sell https://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=1&pgCode=084&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Control+Boxes&agCode=0450&agName=Control+Boxes%2FRegulators I haven't any agreement with Holden Co Ltd The advantage is a better epoca compliance and a strong old machinery working Electronic on our olds cars- also that well hidden,- can have some problems and must be well protected from the troubles coming from the oldest Dynamo This oldest LUCAS manual can helps someone http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/lts_otcc/Session5_GeneratorControl.pdf

Conan Murphy
Posts: 16
Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2010 9:57 am

Re: Pinned Ammeter

Post by Conan Murphy » Mon Nov 06, 2017 11:56 am

Attachments : Dear Groupies,   S mee!  Very easy, and an enormous saving in cost.  Just requires a little unsoldering/resoldering.   See photos attached. Worked a treat for me, but usual caveats apply.   Regards to all, Ian Linton TA3120 Lewes, East Sussex, UK       [b]From:[/b] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Monday, November 06, 2017 7:01 PM [b]To:[/b] tangous1@yahoo.com ; MGLeckstein@monmouth.com [b]Cc:[/b] doug@fromtheframeup.com ; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter    

Someone successfully transferred the electromechanical components from a RB106 to the RF91 without problems they are approx the same and have the same working principle and  NO problems of Positive or Negative   ground Diode and Electronics was at the advent I don't know the J2 electromechanical Volt Regulator BUT probably the same  change  is possible RB106 is already available at good price in UK (probably made in INDIA) GBP27+VAT* shipment also RF95 are already sell https://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=1&pgCode=084&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Control+Boxes&agCode=0450&agName=Control+Boxes%2FRegulators I haven't any agreement with Holden Co Ltd   The advantage is a better epoca compliance and a strong old machinery working Electronic on our olds cars- also that well hidden,- can have some problems and must be well protected from the troubles coming from the  oldest Dynamo This oldest LUCAS manual can helps someone http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/lts_otcc/Session5_GeneratorControl.pdf     Il Luned 6 Novembre 2017 14:51, "Peter Mond tangous1@yahoo.com [mg-tabc]" mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> ha scritto:   Hi Mike Yes you are right polarity is of an essence. Need to make sure. Will ask Doug if he carries either one. Thanks Peter Peter Mond On Nov 6, 2017, at 5:56 AM, Michael Leckstein MGLeckstein@monmouth.com> wrote:

TC is positive ground, the J2 is negative ground, unless the polarity of either one is changed. Diode units are made either way. But you have to order the correct polarity.  I am sure Doug can supply you with one or get either one.  Interesting to note that I have an MG friend who is an electrical engineer. He built a diode cut out for my J2 without a regulator but fused it at 8 amps. The original 3rd brush was retained to regulate output. It seems to work fine and is safer than the original cut out which can freeze. I will ,when I get around to it, install a unit like Doug sells to replace the 3rd brush. Mike   [b]From:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]Peter Mond tangous1@yahoo.com [mg-tabc] [b]Sent:[/b] Sunday, November 05, 2017 9:04 PM [b]To:[/b] Doug Pelton [b]Cc:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter   Are you able to use the same solid state regulator of a MG TC as for a MG J2 1933 ? Peter Mond On Nov 5, 2017, at 7:58 PM, 'Doug Pelton' doug@fromtheframeup.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Duncan and all,   Howard s failed unit was an original RF95/2 and not a solid state unit.   I don t know what the history of the unit is.  However, I can tell that is had be refurbished by the adjustment screws which had a new coat of red paint on them which is normally done to see if anyone has tampered with the adjustment.   I am a very strong advocate of the new solid state regulators that now have.  These are original cores that have had their internals replaced with smart protective circuitry.  I recommend using nothing else.   Regards,   [b][i]Doug Pelton,[/i][/b] Proprietor From The Frame Up 480-588-8185 For Fastest Service:  order@fromtheframeup.com Like us on FACEBOOK! See us on YouTUBE!   www.FromTheFrameUp.com   [b]From:[/b] Howard Shempp [hshempp@gmail.com] [b]Sent:[/b] Sunday, November 5, 2017 3:44 PM [b]To:[/b] Doug Pelton doug@fromtheframeup.com> [b]Subject:[/b] Fwd: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter   Inquiring minds want to know   ---------- Forwarded message --------- From: Duncan morelists@yahoo.com> Date: Sun, Nov 5, 2017 at 10:18 AM Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter To: Howard Shempp hshempp@gmail.com> So Doug replaced the failed unit he sold you with a new one, or the failed unit was from another source? Any info on the failed unit would be of interest. Thanks- Duncan TC9877 -------------------------------------------- On Fri, 11/3/17, Howard Shempp hshempp@gmail.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Subject: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter To: "T-ABC List" mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Date: Friday, November 3, 2017, 1:13 PM          As you guys diagnosed, new solid state regulator from Doug Pelton (From the Frame Up) straightened everything out.  Battery returned to Summit Racing which was delivered in two days.  Both very good companies with terrific service.. Thanks all. 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Stephen D Stierman
Posts: 63
Joined: Fri Dec 26, 2003 5:04 am

Re: Pinned Ammeter

Post by Stephen D Stierman » Mon Nov 06, 2017 1:04 pm

I did the same thing with an RF91 regulator, requires drilling a hole or two as I recall and a bit of soldering.Steve TC2911 [b]From:[/b] "'TABC' tabc@talktalk.net [mg-tabc]" mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> [b]To:[/b] Andrea VILLA searunner99@yahoo.com>; Peter Mond tangous1@yahoo.com>; Michael Leckstein MGLeckstein@monmouth.com> [b]Cc:[/b] Doug Pelton doug@fromtheframeup.com>; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Monday, November 6, 2017 2:56 PM [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter   Dear Groupies,   S mee!  Very easy, and an enormous saving in cost.  Just requires a little unsoldering/resoldering.   See photos attached. Worked a treat for me, but usual caveats apply.   Regards to all, Ian Linton TA3120 Lewes, East Sussex, UK       [b]From:[/b] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Monday, November 06, 2017 7:01 PM [b]To:[/b] tangous1@yahoo.com ; MGLeckstein@monmouth.com [b]Cc:[/b] doug@fromtheframeup.com ; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter     Someone successfully transferred the electromechanical components from a RB106 to the RF91 without problems they are approx the same and have the same working principle and  NO problems of Positive or Negative   ground Diode and Electronics was at the advent I don't know the J2 electromechanical Volt Regulator BUT probably the same  change  is possible RB106 is already available at good price in UK (probably made in INDIA) GBP27+VAT* shipment also RF95 are already sell https://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=1&pgCode=084&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Control+Boxes&agCode=0450&agName=Control+Boxes%2FRegulators I haven't any agreement with Holden Co Ltd   The advantage is a better epoca compliance and a strong old machinery working Electronic on our olds cars- also that well hidden,- can have some problems and must be well protected from the troubles coming from the  oldest Dynamo This oldest LUCAS manual can helps someone http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/lts_otcc/Session5_GeneratorControl.pdf     Il Luned 6 Novembre 2017 14:51, "Peter Mond tangous1@yahoo.com [mg-tabc]" mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> ha scritto:   Hi Mike Yes you are right polarity is of an essence. Need to make sure. Will ask Doug if he carries either one. Thanks Peter Peter Mond On Nov 6, 2017, at 5:56 AM, Michael Leckstein MGLeckstein@monmouth.com> wrote:
TC is positive ground, the J2 is negative ground, unless the polarity of either one is changed. Diode units are made either way. But you have to order the correct polarity.  I am sure Doug can supply you with one or get either one.  Interesting to note that I have an MG friend who is an electrical engineer. He built a diode cut out for my J2 without a regulator but fused it at 8 amps. The original 3rd brush was retained to regulate output. It seems to work fine and is safer than the original cut out which can freeze. I will ,when I get around to it, install a unit like Doug sells to replace the 3rd brush. Mike   [b]From:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]Peter Mond tangous1@yahoo.com [mg-tabc] [b]Sent:[/b] Sunday, November 05, 2017 9:04 PM [b]To:[/b] Doug Pelton [b]Cc:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter   Are you able to use the same solid state regulator of a MG TC as for a MG J2 1933 ? Peter Mond On Nov 5, 2017, at 7:58 PM, 'Doug Pelton' doug@fromtheframeup.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Duncan and all,   Howard s failed unit was an original RF95/2 and not a solid state unit.   I don t know what the history of the unit is.  However, I can tell that is had be refurbished by the adjustment screws which had a new coat of red paint on them which is normally done to see if anyone has tampered with the adjustment.   I am a very strong advocate of the new solid state regulators that now have.  These are original cores that have had their internals replaced with smart protective circuitry.  I recommend using nothing else.   Regards,   [b][i]Doug Pelton,[/i][/b] Proprietor From The Frame Up 480-588-8185 For Fastest Service:  order@fromtheframeup.com Like us on FACEBOOK! See us on YouTUBE!   www.FromTheFrameUp.com   [b]From:[/b] Howard Shempp [hshempp@gmail.com] [b]Sent:[/b] Sunday, November 5, 2017 3:44 PM [b]To:[/b] Doug Pelton doug@fromtheframeup.com> [b]Subject:[/b] Fwd: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter   Inquiring minds want to know   ---------- Forwarded message --------- From: Duncan morelists@yahoo.com> Date: Sun, Nov 5, 2017 at 10:18 AM Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter To: Howard Shempp hshempp@gmail.com> So Doug replaced the failed unit he sold you with a new one, or the failed unit was from another source? Any info on the failed unit would be of interest. Thanks- Duncan TC9877 -------------------------------------------- On Fri, 11/3/17, Howard Shempp hshempp@gmail.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Subject: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter To: "T-ABC List" mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Date: Friday, November 3, 2017, 1:13 PM          As you guys diagnosed, new solid state regulator from Doug Pelton (From the Frame Up) straightened everything out.  Battery returned to Summit Racing which was delivered in two days.  Both very good companies with terrific service.. Thanks all. 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jan johnson
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2004 2:01 pm

Re: Pinned Ammeter

Post by jan johnson » Tue Nov 07, 2017 7:04 am

I had my CJR3 converted by Doug s supplier for my 36 TA and converted to negative ground;

The problem with the older cut-outs is space for the circuit board & electronic bits; they were able

To re-position them to fit under my cover, BUT they would have to determine if there s room for

The smaller units for earlier pre-War PA/PB and J-2! Jan/Fairfield

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 


Andrea VILLA
Posts: 47
Joined: Sat Dec 24, 2016 3:16 am

Re: Pinned Ammeter

Post by Andrea VILLA » Tue Nov 07, 2017 8:58 am

Attachments :Just arrived the RF91 from ebay at lowest price, cleaned, not so bad, can work at 60%-ready to test BUT the screw are strongly fit- no CRC not DOT4 injections at the moment have successBut NEW Indian Made? RB106 are ready for spares, if necessary -it can be also fit directly to the TC but is a abominim Il Luned 6 Novembre 2017 22:04, "Stephen D Stierman morgan7709@sbcglobal.net [mg-tabc]" mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> ha scritto:   I did the same thing with an RF91 regulator, requires drilling a hole or two as I recall and a bit of soldering.Steve TC2911 [b]From:[/b] "'TABC' tabc@talktalk.net [mg-tabc]" mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> [b]To:[/b] Andrea VILLA searunner99@yahoo.com>; Peter Mond tangous1@yahoo.com>; Michael Leckstein MGLeckstein@monmouth.com> [b]Cc:[/b] Doug Pelton doug@fromtheframeup.com>; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Monday, November 6, 2017 2:56 PM [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter   Dear Groupies,   S mee!  Very easy, and an enormous saving in cost.  Just requires a little unsoldering/resoldering.   See photos attached. Worked a treat for me, but usual caveats apply.   Regards to all, Ian Linton TA3120 Lewes, East Sussex, UK       [b]From:[/b] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Monday, November 06, 2017 7:01 PM [b]To:[/b] tangous1@yahoo.com ; MGLeckstein@monmouth.com [b]Cc:[/b] doug@fromtheframeup.com ; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter     Someone successfully transferred the electromechanical components from a RB106 to the RF91 without problems they are approx the same and have the same working principle and  NO problems of Positive or Negative   ground Diode and Electronics was at the advent I don't know the J2 electromechanical Volt Regulator BUT probably the same  change  is possible RB106 is already available at good price in UK (probably made in INDIA) GBP27+VAT* shipment also RF95 are already sell https://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=1&pgCode=084&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Control+Boxes&agCode=0450&agName=Control+Boxes%2FRegulators I haven't any agreement with Holden Co Ltd   The advantage is a better epoca compliance and a strong old machinery working Electronic on our olds cars- also that well hidden,- can have some problems and must be well protected from the troubles coming from the  oldest Dynamo This oldest LUCAS manual can helps someone http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/lts_otcc/Session5_GeneratorControl.pdf     Il Luned 6 Novembre 2017 14:51, "Peter Mond tangous1@yahoo.com [mg-tabc]" mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> ha scritto:   Hi Mike Yes you are right polarity is of an essence. Need to make sure. Will ask Doug if he carries either one. Thanks Peter Peter Mond On Nov 6, 2017, at 5:56 AM, Michael Leckstein MGLeckstein@monmouth.com> wrote:
TC is positive ground, the J2 is negative ground, unless the polarity of either one is changed. Diode units are made either way. But you have to order the correct polarity.  I am sure Doug can supply you with one or get either one.  Interesting to note that I have an MG friend who is an electrical engineer. He built a diode cut out for my J2 without a regulator but fused it at 8 amps. The original 3rd brush was retained to regulate output. It seems to work fine and is safer than the original cut out which can freeze. I will ,when I get around to it, install a unit like Doug sells to replace the 3rd brush. Mike   [b]From:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]Peter Mond tangous1@yahoo.com [mg-tabc] [b]Sent:[/b] Sunday, November 05, 2017 9:04 PM [b]To:[/b] Doug Pelton [b]Cc:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter   Are you able to use the same solid state regulator of a MG TC as for a MG J2 1933 ? Peter Mond On Nov 5, 2017, at 7:58 PM, 'Doug Pelton' doug@fromtheframeup.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Duncan and all,   Howard s failed unit was an original RF95/2 and not a solid state unit.   I don t know what the history of the unit is.  However, I can tell that is had be refurbished by the adjustment screws which had a new coat of red paint on them which is normally done to see if anyone has tampered with the adjustment.   I am a very strong advocate of the new solid state regulators that now have.  These are original cores that have had their internals replaced with smart protective circuitry.  I recommend using nothing else.   Regards,   [b][i]Doug Pelton,[/i][/b] Proprietor From The Frame Up 480-588-8185 For Fastest Service:  order@fromtheframeup.com Like us on FACEBOOK! See us on YouTUBE!   www.FromTheFrameUp.com   [b]From:[/b] Howard Shempp [hshempp@gmail.com] [b]Sent:[/b] Sunday, November 5, 2017 3:44 PM [b]To:[/b] Doug Pelton doug@fromtheframeup.com> [b]Subject:[/b] Fwd: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter   Inquiring minds want to know   ---------- Forwarded message --------- From: Duncan morelists@yahoo.com> Date: Sun, Nov 5, 2017 at 10:18 AM Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter To: Howard Shempp hshempp@gmail.com> So Doug replaced the failed unit he sold you with a new one, or the failed unit was from another source? Any info on the failed unit would be of interest. Thanks- Duncan TC9877 -------------------------------------------- On Fri, 11/3/17, Howard Shempp hshempp@gmail.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Subject: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter To: "T-ABC List" mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Date: Friday, November 3, 2017, 1:13 PM          As you guys diagnosed, new solid state regulator from Doug Pelton (From the Frame Up) straightened everything out.  Battery returned to Summit Racing which was delivered in two days.  Both very good companies with terrific service.. Thanks all. 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Duncan
Posts: 95
Joined: Sat Jul 18, 2015 12:04 pm

Re: Pinned Ammeter

Post by Duncan » Tue Nov 07, 2017 8:36 pm

Many TC's are running with TD type dynamo's that are inexpensive to replace. Some original model TC dynamo's are still in use, and I suspect Doug Peltons recommendation for electronic regulators is directed at them, as those dynamo's are quite costly to repair/replace. Theory is that an electronic regulator can prolong the life of your dynamo, while the mechanical regulator can shorten its life, and that mechanical points waste a fair amount of current. Real question being unanswered for those running original TC dynamos is who makes the best electronic regulator conversion? Clover Systems (DRM unit) or Dynamo Regulators Ltd (DVR3 unit) or Vintage Mecha-Tronics? Duncan- TC9866 --------------------------------------------
On Mon, 11/6/17, Steve S mail@mgnuts.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter To: Cc: "mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com" mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Date: Monday, November 6, 2017, 11:39 AM I'm in the same camp... I tend to avoid electronics in my old cars. The electric / mechanical parts give lots of warning if something is amiss, whereas electronic parts typically fail very suddenly and without warning. Maybe I'm in the minority, but my original Lucas regulator has been going for 30,000 miles so far with no sign of impending issues. I've had one go out of spec on my MGA, but a very simple adjustment and cleaning put it back in order. And in my daily driver MGB I had one start to act up after about 70,000 miles, and was rebuilt locally and now back in the car. I don't have a problem with anyone using electronics, but personally I prefer the old tech predictability more than modern stuff. At my job I deal with advanced electronics on a daily basis, so it's really nice to have my M.G.s to help me escape that! - Steve Simmons, TC8975 On 11/6/2017 11:01 AM, Andrea VILLA searunner99@yahoo.com [mg-tabc] wrote: Someone successfully transferred the electromechanical components from a RB106 to the RF91 without problems they are approx the same and have the same working principle and NO problems of Positive or Negative ground Diode and Electronics was at the advent I don't know the J2 electromechanical Volt Regulator BUT probably the same change is possible RB106 is already available at good price in UK (probably made in INDIA) GBP27+VAT* shipment also RF95 are already sell https://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=1&pgCode=084&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Control+Boxes&agCode=0450&agName=Control+Boxes%2FRegulators I haven't any agreement with Holden Co Ltd The advantage is a better epoca compliance and a strong old machinery working Electronic on our olds cars- also that well hidden,- can have some problems and must be well protected from the troubles coming from the oldest Dynamo This oldest LUCAS manual can helps someone http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/lts_otcc/Session5_GeneratorControl.pdf

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