hoods

[cshiplee@141international.com]

I have been re fitting the hood on my TC with a new one supplied by Moss. I have found Cliff Knights article extremely helpful. In the process I have a couple of issues which I would appreciate thoughts on 1. Fitting the hood to the rear tacking strip. You suggest the following ".......The hood is held at the rear by tacking the inner flap to the wooden tacking strip. The outer flap covers the tacks. Position the hood central to the bodywork with the sown seam flush with the top of the tack rail......." By "sown seam " I assume that you mean the row of stitching where the decorative flap is sown to the main fabric of the hood. If I did secure my hood at this point I would have an overlap of material that seems to be very long. In fact it would come down to nearly cover the petrol tank bolts. Looking at period photos it would seen that on most cars the piped edge of the decorative flap sits just on or below the bottom of the tacking strip. Have I got it wrong? Does it matter? Suggestions welcome 2. Corners of the windscreen top rail. You Suggest "......Trim the hood flush with the bottom of the front wooden rail, leaving enough at the sides to fold around as shown in figure 7......." I'm not sure which figure is 7? But I'm having a lot of trouble getting the right fold around the curve of the wood . Again any suggestions? Charles Shiplee IMPORTANT NOTICE: This message is intended for the use of the person(s) or organisation (the Intended Recipient) to whom it is addressed. It may contain information which is privileged and confidential within the meaning of applicable law. Accordingly dissemination, distribution, copying or other use of this message or any of its contents by any person other than the Intended Recipient may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law and is strictly prohibited. If you are not the Intended Recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible. All information or opinions expressed in this message and/or any attachments are those of the author and are not necessarily those of The Group. All reasonable precautions have been taken to ensure no viruses are present in this E-mail. As The Group accepts no responsibility for loss or damage arising from the use of this E-mail or attachments we recommend that you subject these to your virus checking procedures prior to use.

[Graham Knight]

Charles, I recently fitted a hood to my TA and had problems with these corners. I doubt the attached sketches will hep much nor do I have any idea whether what I suggest is right, but here goes. The hood I fitted was cut as in the top sketch. I ended up removing a lot of material in the cross-hatched area in order that the corner marked X could be pulled round and up and tucked under the front of the hood and the hidem binding as in sketch 2. I found this tricky and traumatic. Without losing material here I think there would be too much bulk to get a neat finish. Lose too much and you are looking for a new hood! When I looked at the old hood (made by me many years ago using a previous one as a pattern) I found I had cut it as in the third sketch - i.e. with the curve cut in the lower edge. (I guess they are not normally made like this since it is impossible to know exactly where this curve should be on any particular car.) I reckon this makes the fitting much easier and could, of course, be achieved by unpicking and re-fitting the edge piping. Graham (Knight but no relation)

>2. Corners of the windscreen top rail. You Suggest "......Trim the hood >flush with the bottom of the front wooden rail, leaving enough > at the sides to fold around as shown in figure 7......." I'm not sure >which figure is 7? But I'm having a lot of trouble getting the right fold >around the curve of the wood . >Again any suggestions? > > >Charles Shiplee

[tonygoodall]

This is it, Graham has it about right; there is no absolute about this detail as it depends on a number of factors which can vary slightly. The main thing to ensure is that the cut part is level so that the hidem will cover it adequately. Take it off by trial and error a bit at a time then you won't go too far. DO make sure your hood is fully stretched, I leave them for a night or two before doing this detail, you dont want to be tightening it after you have done this, it tends to be a once and for all process so you would have to pull to the back and then it might be even more over the studs. BTW if you are doing screens too make sure your hood is the same level at each side, they sometimes tend to slide a bit over the rear screens ; thats where the hood bow fixings come into things and its also where you can get get problems when the hood is dropped. Ideally all fabric is best outside the frame when down but the fixings do not permit this. As I have mentioned in an earlier discussion I am looking at using Velcro on top of the hood bow next time, it should be enough to keep the hood where it should be and will allow it to release on folding, resulting in a much more compact fit and no trapped material. Hope this helps Tony TC9825

> From: Graham Knight G.Knight@cs.ucl.ac.uk> > Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 15:51:18 +0000 > To: cshiplee@141international.com > Cc: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] hoods > > Charles, > > I recently fitted a hood to my TA and had problems with these corners. I > doubt the attached sketches will hep much nor do I have any idea whether > what I suggest is right, but here goes. > > The hood I fitted was cut as in the top sketch. I ended up removing a lot > of material in the cross-hatched area in order that the corner marked X > could be pulled round and up and tucked under the front of the hood and the > hidem binding as in sketch 2. I found this tricky and traumatic. Without > losing material here I think there would be too much bulk to get a neat > finish. Lose too much and you are looking for a new hood! > > When I looked at the old hood (made by me many years ago using a previous > one as a pattern) I found I had cut it as in the third sketch - i.e. with > the curve cut in the lower edge. (I guess they are not normally made like > this since it is impossible to know exactly where this curve should be on > any particular car.) I reckon this makes the fitting much easier and could, > of course, be achieved by unpicking and re-fitting the edge piping. > > Graham (Knight but no relation) > >> 2. Corners of the windscreen top rail. You Suggest "......Trim the hood >> flush with the bottom of the front wooden rail, leaving enough >> at the sides to fold around as shown in figure 7......." I'm not sure >> which figure is 7? But I'm having a lot of trouble getting the right fold >> around the curve of the wood . >> Again any suggestions? >> >> >> Charles Shiplee > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

[Zissel-Kreuztal@t-online.de]

Hi Graham, hi Charles, take a look in the "T-Series Restoration Guide, by Malcom Green" from Brooklands Books. ISBN 1 85520 2115 There are very exact description what and how to do. With some pictures. As a forecast, I send you offline a german translation with some drawnings. lozi, TC 3762