Re: MGTC "Tripod"Headlights

[CFritz7001@aol.com]

Thom, You may recall that my TC wears a pair of the "tripod" Lucas headlights, and that I have them protected with a pair of wire-mesh stone guards that I bought many years ago. The light units themselves came from a Jaguar, either an XK 120 or Mk VIII. Jack Pry, the Jag. daler in Washington DC had a whole bin full of these lights which had been removed from Jags they had sold to DC residents. Seems that the DC licensing authorities insisted that all cars had to be equipped with US-made "sealed-beam" lights!!! (BTW, the SBs were vastly inferior to the tripods in every way possible, except that their reflectors did not become dull with age, and that they were/are CHEAP!) I bought 4 of them for $10 each, which will give you a clue as to how long ago that was (about 1956, as I recall) I should have bought the whole stash but was on the GI bill and with very limited cash at the time. My lights came with bulb-holders that only fit bulbs made by a now-defunct French outfit - Marchal -. These give marvelous liight patterns; NO glare on low beam, and really long-range, closely aimed highs that reach out far beyond any other light I've ever seen. Only problem is to find new bulbs; last batch took me several weeks of internet poking to find them. My reflectors have lost some of their luster, but I found that I could clean up most of the dullness by wrapping a soft cloth around a dowel and working through the bulb- socket hold. Tedious, but easier than removing the lens. If mine ever get too dull, I plan to remove the lenses and to have the reflectors chrome-plated , then cement the lensed back with clear silicone cement. You might be interested to know that National Parts Depot (a restoration parts supplier for Mustangs, Camaros, Firebirds, etc.) lists a 7" diameter tripod light unit on page 112 of their current catalog for '65-'73 Mustangs. The lights cost $84.95 each, H-4 halogen 55/60 watt bulbs are $4.95 each. The owner of NPD lives across the street from me, and I can assure you that he is one fussy, meticulous guy and only sells absolute top-quality stuff!!! NPD has its headquarters in Ocala, Florida, and other branches in California, N.Carolina & Michigan. NPD's website is at www.npdlink.com >> (NO, I don't have any financial interest in NPD, but I sure wish that I did! It's a real going & growing concern run by people who really know what they're doing) J.C. Whitney used to sell a triopd light also, but it doesn't appear in their latest catalog. HAPPY NEW YEAR TO YOU AND ALL THE OTHER TABC FAMILY !!!!!! Regards, Carl Fritz TC # 6756 (Betsy) VA # 2009 S (Abigail) Gainesville, Florida

[David and Joyce Edgar]

> My reflectors have lost some of their luster, but I found that I could >clean up most of the dullness by wrapping a soft cloth around a dowel and >working through the bulb- socket hold. Tedious, but easier than removing the >lens.

I hear that Gene Roth, whose TC is ALWAYS spotless dispite driving it, uses Tarnex to clean his reflectors. Pours some in, swishes it around and then pour out. All done. Never tried it but is on my list of things to do. Guess I sould make that a new years resolution. HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL, David Edgar, TC 5108 El Cajon, California

[LuckyFloridaLin@aol.com]

Dear Dave; Good idea about Tarnex- Doesn't it leave a haze. Seems to, when I use it on my regular silver? Tally Ho! Thom Collins

[David and Joyce Edgar]

The following was a reply to me from Peter Pleitner who, as I have done before, forgot to send to the whole group. I tired to let Peter know but my email would not go through to him because of a filter on his server. His server apparently subscribes to ORBZ (Open Relay Blackhole Zones) which refuses mail from my server because it has the posibility of relaying spam. Was given the following interesting web site to explain. http://www.orbz.org/ Read on for Peter's message:

>I've been using Tarnex for years. Its works very well. Only one caution >about your instructions, RINSE Tarnex residue out thoroughly! I use >distilled water, then blow dry. > >Could someone post the source in Oregon for replating silver please? > >Several more observations, some repeated from old posts on this subject: > >1. Chrome is not the way to go. Specify silver plate. Reflectance is >superior and luster is more authentic. One of mine is now showing some >brass, so time to re-plate (could be consequence of Tarnex?). But this time >I will specify vapor deposition of silica over the silver to prevent >tarnishing. I learned this from optics in my previous life. Oh, also the >bulb socket should be plated. > >2. I elected to use tripods because of looks, performance, but most of all >repair ability. The flat glass is easily replaced, the cat-eye lenses are >not. > >3. Removal of glass is best performed by placing unit upside down on a can >or bucket of suitable dimension, then punching the glass with a hammer and >punch through the aperture where the bulb socket usually resides to break >it. Then peal the broken shards from the rim's perimeter and remove all >sealer. > >4. Proper installation of tripods on 140 buckets requires a different head >light rim, one with a slightly different cross section to the rolled bead on >the front ID. > >5. Be very careful not to dent the reflecting surface. It is fluted. I >vaguely recall that the reflector wall is a double layer of brass. Might be >wrong though. Could be thinking of some other car. > >Cheers, Peter