Re: Half shafts & Oil slingers

[Roger Furneaux]

hi Tony - half shafts DO vary, but they should be exactly 1" diamater. The ones I make use hot-rolled nickel-chrome-moly steel, and the bars are usually within a few thou of correct size. What varies more, is the size of the slingers: I have a pair of Moss & a pair of Abingdons, and all four are different!!! The Moss ones have a very shallow groove, which will very quickly disappear through wear as the half shaft flexes. Not only that, the LHS is under-size. The A/S ones are a loose fit. The other point is that all axle casings are slightly different, some are distorted, and if the oil slingers are squeezed they will have to be reamed out after pressing in. For this you need an adjustable reamer. But what size? If you go to, say, 25.5mm (1.004") the oil-scrolling effect will be quite good, but the flexing of the half-shaft will wear it away. If looser, it will last longer but not work so well. The worst situation is to have them too tight: friction will heat them up, they will seize on the shaft and spin in the axle case. They can then rattle along the shaft and fall into the diff when the shaft is withdrawn, as you found. An even worse scenario is that friction can heat up the shaft so much that the heat-treatment is destroyed (I have seen some that had gone blue) and the shaft breaks. Just forget them and fit a pair of my new hexagonal hub-nuts with double-lip seals in them, which do a far better job. Only 25 GB Pounds + postage! ocTagonally Roger Furneaux Devon England

>A query for the collective wisdom! > >I recently had both half shafts out to change diffs. >I noticed that the off side oil slinger was missing and subsequently found >it (unusable!) in the bottom of the diff casing. I replaced the slinger and >on replacing the half shaft discovered that it would not pass through the >same. I tried an older half shaft which did pass through, so clearly >different diameters and the reason that the slinger was in the diff casing; >the P O had obviously been there and knocked the slinger out in the attempt >to locate the half shaft. > Both shafts fit into the diff carrier though one obviously slightly snugger >than the other. On checking previous receipts I concluded that the half >shaft purchased in '98 from N T G was the offending item. >Question - is there a move to a slightly greater diameter and thus stronger >shafts, then dispensing with the slinger or reaming it out, or is this shaft >a rogue item? >Has any one else had a similar experience? > >Regards >Tony TC 9825 > > > > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

[Gene Gillam]

>Just forget them and fit a pair of my new hexagonal hub-nuts with

double-lip seals in them.< Roger Furneaux Roger, I was among a group that recently bought the hub-nuts from you but I haven't had a chance to install them yet - one of those "things-to-do" jobs that will eventually get done. I didn't realize that using them would negate the need for the slinger - or will the slinger still be needed as a spacer to keep the half-shaft from flexing? Also, for what it's worth, when I installed the slingers, I used a brake cylinder hone (one of those small three legged hones that expand automatically as it cuts) to hone 'em out large enough to allow the half-shaft to slide in easily. It didn't take too long to do it that way and I don't think I removed too much of the groove. For that matter I used that hone on my brake cylinders (rather than sending 'em to White Post) and they've done extremely well with silicon fluid (no leaks since I filled the lines about 5 years ago - didn't start using the brakes until last year). Gene Gillam Saucier, MS TC7872 XPAG 8659

[Robert Grunau]

For that matter I used that hone on my brake cylinders (rather than sending 'em to White Post) and they've done extremely well with silicon fluid (no leaks since I filled the lines about 5 years ago - didn't start using the brakes until last year). Gene Gillam Ah, silicone: I am going to try it one more time!! Somebody said I need to remove a bit off the back end ( seal side ) of the master cylinder piston? Perhaps somebody could remind me how much?? Seems to me it was 0.030" ? or was it 0.050"? or 0.060"./ Advice appreciated Thanks, Bob Grunau

[Frank O_ The Mountain]

In a message dated 12/11/01 16:49:25 Pacific Standard Time, cgrunau@pathcom.com writes: > .050 Bob........not real critical......I never did it on any of my cars and only the Arnolt seems to want to lock sometimes........but if I use the car, its no problem at all. Terry

[joecurto@aol.com]

Why would you have to remove any material off the back side of the brake piston so you could use silicon fluid? I have never heard this in all the years silicon has been around? Remember some pistons are not flat on the seal side. Joe Curto

[Frank O_ The Mountain]

In a message dated 12/12/01 06:04:58 Pacific Standard Time, joecurto@aol.com writes: >>

[Skip Kelsey]

Joe: At 09:03 AM 12/12/01 -0500, joecurto@aol.com wrote:

Why would you have to remove any material off the back side of the brake piston so you could use silicon fluid?

Joe: Due to the sometimes excess swelling of the seals, the seal blocks the return hole. By taking off .050 of the back of the piston, it allows the piston to return farther, and thus does not block the hole. It causes no other problems. I have been doing this for years with great success. Some M/C require it, and some do not. Skip Kelsey........................................................

[Dave & Diana Dwyer]

Bob When I put silicon fluid into our J2 brakes I used a complete set of new cylinders and new hoses (the system uses Morris 1000 master cylinder and hoses with Hillman Minx wheel cylinders). I had to pressure bleed the brakes because the master cylinder returned only very slowly in the bleed situation. After about a year I noticed some brake drag occurring: on stripping the system I found everything totally clean (previously I seemed to be unsiezing the rear wheel cylinders about every twelve months), but the master cylinder primary cup had grown/perished and was blocking the equalising vent, causing the drag. I fitted a new set of rubbers to the master cylinder and everything has worked fine since - about 15 years I think. I didn't modify anything: I suspect the master cylinder seal failed because it was NOS - I'd had it on the shelf at least 10 years. The insides of a Morris 1000 master cylinder are #identical# to those of the TC master cylinder. Regards Dave Dwyer J2, TA, TC