TC Hood Support

[Mark Stolzenburg]

Does anyone on the list have plans, designs, measurement or drawings of the blocks that fit on top of the battery box lid that hold the hood up. I've seen various styles. Looks like something that would be easy to make.

Thanks,

Mark Stolzenburg

[CFritz7001@aol.com]

Mark, I made my prop from a piece of old broom-handle about 2 feet long, with notches cut into near the ends to receive the rear corners of the bonnet side-panels. I covered the main portion of it with some foam pipe-insulation, which helps to wedge it into the area just behind the back of the too-box. It stays there all the time, where it is always ready for use, yet out of the way. It's painted black to match the scuttle, so is very inconspicuous. Cost - practically nothing. Time to make - about 20 minutes (not counting the drying time of the paint) Regards, Carl Fritz TC # 6756 (Betsy) VA # 2009 S (Abigail) Gainesville, Florida

[KEN PORTER]

Mark: What you need is a piece of 1/2 inch plywood about 2 3/4 by 3 3/4. Cut a leg on one side about 1 1/2 inches long by 5/8 wide. This is fits in the loop of the tool box catch with the rest of the bracket resting on the tool box. Cut a notch about 1/2 inch from the rear 1/4 inch wide and 3/8 deep to fit the edge of the hood. The bracket is held in place buy the loop of the tool box catch and the hood/bonnet is held open by the hood resting in the notch. Dimensions are not critical. Try cutting one out of a piece of cardboard first. Ken TC 4147 Mark Stolzenburg wrote:

Does anyone on the list have plans, designs, measurement or drawings of the blocks that fit on top of the battery box lid that hold the hood up. I've seen various styles. Looks like something that would be easy to make.Thanks,Mark Stolzenburg

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[rameismer@aol.com]

The best hood prop that I came across is made from a small piece of sheet metal channel about 1/2"x1/2" about 4" long cut though the two sides but not the back. them bend it up to form about a 45% angle then solder so that it remains in place , Now drill a hole so it can be bolted to stay bar (radiator support)at the top end. This will take the rubber cormer piece on the hood. works real well. /Rolland Meismer TC#3409-TD#5522 Burlington Iowa