Rear axle trouble

[JDF Wessels]

Can someone advise me on the following;

After a long drive in TC 9860, the right rear axle (drive shaft or whatever you call this) brook into 2 pieces. After removing the spinners for the wheels, oil came out of the axle (yes I removed all of the oil from the rear axle first using the drain according to the books. Then, using some carefull force, I removed the breakdrum of the righthand rearwheel. At this point the cause of the failure became very clear. The wheel bearing could be moved some 3 millimeters, while the nut, holding the bearing was tightened. This caused the axle to bent with each bump and eventually break.

Questions;

- What size and type of tool is used to unscrew this nut (One previous owner used the wrong one causing all six corners of the nut to be round). I bought a 50 mm ringspanner (larger than life) but it does not fit.

- Is it normal that oil from within the axle makes its way out of the axle via the spinners? There is supposed to be an oil-seal behind the bearing. Since both sides leak (left much less than broken down right) I don't know.

- Is it time to replace both bearings and oil seals or do they last "a long time", related to the 3000 miles I drive each year

As a last comment to the Christies stuff, if you own an old car this does not mean you do not have some obligation to maintain its character and origin. We should be called lucky to be able to drive something that was put together some 60 years ago AND STILL WORKS AND IS APPRECIATED BY ALMOST EVERYONE(how about the meaningless piles of junk we drive today, although they are near to perfect)

If you like something one of a kind, do a kitcar project and through whatever you like at it.

kind regards,

Frans Wessels TC 9860 EXU (sorry, no bumpers ............ oooops) Esdoornstraat 8 4043MG Opheusden The Netherlands tel : +31-(0)488-443657

[CFritz7001@aol.com]

Frans, GOOD questions! If you don't already have a copy of TCs Forever, by Mike Sherrill, you should get one as soon as possible!! It contains a wealth of information about the axle bearings, seals, etc. and MANY other topics which you'll eventually find very valuable. Having it will save you many times more than its cost. Several of the suppliers listed on the TABC website carry this book, and a few days ago there was a message on the TABC list telling how to order directly from the author.. The TABC archives contain a lot of information (plus opinions) on the axle subject, but I can't recall how to go about getting into the archives. I'm sure that Walter Preschl (email to walter@publi-consult.com ) can tell you. To give you a few very brief answers to your questions: 1) You may have to make your own tool to loosen/tighten the bearing nut. (Note that there is a locking washer behind the nut,) 2) Yes, there is a seal behind the bearing, and a "scroll" device intended to "pump" oil back towards the diff., but both are typically worn out. 3) Yes, the bearing needs to be held firmly in place by the retaining nut so that there is no slop, but little if any pre-load on the bearing. Shimming is commonly needed to get this right. 4) I would think that you would be wise to replace the bearings on both axles at this point. 5) Roger Furneaux, a TABC member in the UK, is the group's axle "guru". He sells axle parts, including a special nut which has an oil seal built in. Hope this helps. Regards, Carl Fritz TC # 6756 (Betsy) VA # 2009 S (Abigail) Gainesville, Florida

[Skip Kelsey]

Carl: I have autographed copies of TCs Forever at $75.00 ea. Skip Kelsey.......................................... At 11:37 AM 8/24/01 -0400, CFritz7001@aol.com wrote:

>Frans, > GOOD questions! > If you don't already have a copy of TCs Forever, by Mike Sherrill, you >should get one as soon as possible!! It contains a wealth of information >about the axle bearings, seals, etc. and MANY other topics which you'll >eventually find very valuable. Having it will save you many times more than >its cost. Several of the suppliers listed on the TABC website carry this >book, and a few days ago there was a message on the TABC list telling how to >order directly from the author.. > The TABC archives contain a lot of information (plus opinions) on the >axle subject, but I can't recall how to go about getting into the archives. >I'm sure that Walter Preschl (email to walter@publi-consult.com ) can >tell you. > To give you a few very brief answers to your questions: > 1) You may have to make your own tool to loosen/tighten the bearing > nut. >(Note that there is a locking washer behind the nut,) > 2) Yes, there is a seal behind the bearing, and a "scroll" device >intended to "pump" oil back towards the diff., but both are typically worn >out. > 3) Yes, the bearing needs to be held firmly in place by the retaining >nut so that there is no slop, but little if any pre-load on the bearing. >Shimming is commonly needed to get this right. > 4) I would think that you would be wise to replace the bearings on both >axles at this point. > 5) Roger Furneaux, a TABC member in the UK, is the group's axle "guru". >He sells axle parts, including a special nut which has an oil seal built in. > Hope this helps. >Regards, >Carl Fritz >TC # 6756 (Betsy) >VA # 2009 S (Abigail) >Gainesville, Florida > > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[CFritz7001@aol.com]

Roger, I stand corrected !! (Guess I must have merged thoughts and started thinking of front wheel bearings!!) Regards, Carl Fritz TC # 6756 (Betsy) VA # 2009 S (Abigail) Gainesville, Florida

[tim.fiona.miller]

Regarding an appropriate spanner, having replaced a rear hub oil seal recently on my TA, I found that a box spanner I bought for a Series III Land Rover hub also fitted the TA axle nut. These box spanners are easily obtained from Landrover specialists. Regards Tim Miller TA 0264 Ross-on-Wye England

----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] j.d.f.wessels@freeler.nl [b]To:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, August 24, 2001 3:33 PM [b]Subject:[/b] [mg-tabc] Rear axle trouble Can someone advise me on the following; After a long drive in TC 9860, the right rear axle (drive shaft or whatever you call this) brook into 2 pieces. After removing the spinners for the wheels, oil came out of the axle (yes I removed all of the oil from the rear axle first using the drain according to the books. Then, using some carefull force, I removed the breakdrum of the righthand rearwheel. At this point the cause of the failure became very clear. The wheel bearing could be moved some 3 millimeters, while the nut, holding the bearing was tightened. This caused the axle to bent with each bump and eventually break. Questions; - What size and type of tool is used to unscrew this nut (One previous owner used the wrong one causing all six corners of the nut to be round). I bought a 50 mm ringspanner (larger than life) but it does not fit. - Is it normal that oil from within the axle makes its way out of the axle via the spinners? There is supposed to be an oil-seal behind the bearing. Since both sides leak (left much less than broken down right) I don't know. - Is it time to replace both bearings and oil seals or do they last "a long time", related to the 3000 miles I drive each year As a last comment to the Christies stuff, if you own an old car this does not mean you do not have some obligation to maintain its character and origin. We should be called lucky to be able to drive something that was put together some 60 years ago AND STILL WORKS AND IS APPRECIATED BY ALMOST EVERYONE(how about the meaningless piles of junk we drive today, although they are near to perfect) If you like something one of a kind, do a kitcar project and through whatever you like at it. kind regards, Frans Wessels TC 9860 EXU (sorry, no bumpers ............ oooops) Esdoornstraat 8 4043MG Opheusden The Netherlands tel : +31-(0)488-443657 Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

[Victoria Vernon]

Hi out there, don't forget the nuts referred to have right and left hand threads. I,m not going to say which is which but my recollection is that they are the reverse of the knock ons. Clem TC7218

[DAI]

Frans, If you have the hex head nut on your rear axle, try a 52mm socket. I bought mine in the UK, made by Stanley Tools for 7.50GBP. Diff oil will accumulate inside the bearing housing and come out when you brake the seal between the bearing housing and the hub/halfshaft assembly. Any play in the bearing means its time to replace it. DAI --- JDF Wessels j.d.f.wessels@freeler.nl> wrote: > Can someone advise me on the following;

> After a long drive in TC 9860, the right rear axle > (drive shaft or whatever you call this) brook into 2 > pieces. After removing the spinners for the wheels, > oil came out of the axle (yes I removed all of the > oil from the rear axle first using the drain > according to the books. Then, using some carefull > force, I removed the breakdrum of the righthand > rearwheel. At this point the cause of the failure > became very clear. The wheel bearing could be moved > some 3 millimeters, while the nut, holding the > bearing was tightened. This caused the axle to bent > with each bump and eventually break. > > Questions; > > - What size and type of tool is used to unscrew this > nut (One previous owner used the wrong one causing > all six corners of the nut to be round). I bought a > 50 mm ringspanner (larger than life) but it does not > fit. > - Is it normal that oil from within the axle makes > its way out of the axle via the spinners? There is > supposed to be an oil-seal behind the bearing. Since > both sides leak (left much less than broken down > right) I don't know. > - Is it time to replace both bearings and oil seals > or do they last "a long time", related to the 3000 > miles I drive each year

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