Re: master cylinder

[Walter Prechsl privat]

john, the master cylinder reservoir contains 220 cm2 (= 220 ml). sorry for metrics, but you surely can recalulate that. i filled it up to the lower edge of the cap thread, you understand what i mean? to get the master cylinder off, is a lousy job -- at best you can do it with a tube spanner. to get a better replacement, see gallery "tech-upgrade" section and read about and get phil marinos special long nut. as phil is not online, jim shade can help you. best regards walter

----- Original Message ----- From: "John Patterson" jwp-mgtc@aliens.com> To: "Walter Prechsl privat" walter@publi-consult.com> Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2001 9:10 PM Subject: RE: master cylinder > Hi Walter > No I have not received an answer. I'm right in the middle of a complete > brake job. I am also having trouble getting the master cylinder off. Any > suggestions > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Walter Prechsl privat [mailto:walter@publi-consult.com] > Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2001 1:05 PM > To: jwp-mgtc@aliens.com > Subject: master cylinder > > > hi john, > > did you already get an answer on your question? > if not, i will go into my cellar and measure the capacity of my old master > cylinder reservoir. > > cheers > walter > _________________________________________________________ > Message: 3 > Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 09:12:55 -0400 > From: "John Patterson" jwp-mgtc@aliens.com> > Subject: MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR-TC > > Hi TC'ers > Can anyone tell me what the capacity ( ml's or oz's) of the master cylinder > reservoir on the 48 TC ? > John Patterson TC 7025 > > >

[Diecuts@aol.com]

Hi Clive, I chose the bronze over a new old stock original (steel), all the pinholes in the old one that I replaced were reason enough to work out a few fitting issues. So far it works great and it's not exactly something that is noticable. Cheers, Lee Jacobsen, Dearborn, MI

[p.cole@ntlworld.com]

Thank for your feedback to help me fit my cast bronze master cylinder to TC3040. The consensus is that the mounting thread on the tail-piece should be UNF, not 20mmx2.5 as supplied. I might try re-threading it as Dave Dwyer suggested, rather than filing the chassis. I will also check the internal assembly in view of the experiences of other members of the list. I called Brown & Gammons today and their response was that they had sold hundreds of these master cylinders, and nobody had ever mentioned a problem. Then they dragged someone out of the workshop who confirmed he had been filling out chassis for years to make the things fit. I asked him if anyone had ever mentioned it to the manufacturer, so that they could get it right in the future. He said no, he had never though of doing that. I mentioned words like "quality control" and "continuous improvement", but by then I'd lost him. I asked who made the part, so that I could let them know, but he refused to tell me. Such is life. Incidentally, the reason I chose a bronze type over the more original tin can type is that I had previously been down that route. In the couple of years it had been sitting in my garage, waiting for me to get round to fitting it, about 50% of the surface had been consumed with rust. The thought of it eventually being exposed to the elements under my car horrified me. At the same time I bought a Bell's stainless steel exhaust from B&G. When I came to fit the centre section, one of the mounting brackets was welded in the wrong place. They told me to drill another set of holes in the chassis to make it fit. I declined to do this, and eventually they changed it. I wonder what they would have done if they had been fitting it to a car they were restoring for an unsuspecting customer? Now I have come to fit the front section and find that the bracket welded to it midway along, that picks up one of the bolts of the bell housing, is at least 2 inches out of position. Again they have agreed to replace it, but will they ever tell the person that made it? I doubt it. Such is life. Peter Cole.

[i.thomson@talk21.com]

Surely that should read "3/4 BSF (or BSW)" not UNF Pete. Ian Thomson ----

> Thank for your feedback to help me fit my cast bronze master cylinder to TC3040. The consensus is that the mounting thread on the tail-piece should be UNF, not 20mmx2.5 as supplied.

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[Roger Furneaux]

>Surely that should read "3/4 BSF (or BSW)" not UNF Pete. > >Ian Thomson

Not neccessarily - brake parts were supplied by Lockheed-Girling, an American co. and use AN threads. Another research project here for someone - list out all the brake threads! cheers TCRoger

[David Lodge]

Peter, Been here! Done all that! (Though not with Brown & Gammons, it should be pointed out) Regards, David Lodge.

> Thank for your feedback to help me fit my cast bronze master cylinder to > TC3040. The consensus is that the mounting thread on the tail-piece should be > UNF, not 20mmx2.5 as supplied. I might try re-threading it as Dave Dwyer > suggested, rather than filing the chassis. I will also check the internal > assembly in view of the experiences of other members of the list. > > I called Brown & Gammons today and their response was that they had sold > hundreds of these master cylinders, and nobody had ever mentioned a problem. > Then they dragged someone out of the workshop who confirmed he had been > filling out chassis for years to make the things fit. > > I asked him if anyone had ever mentioned it to the manufacturer, so that they > could get it right in the future. He said no, he had never though of doing > that. I mentioned words like "quality control" and "continuous improvement", > but by then I'd lost him. I asked who made the part, so that I could let them > know, but he refused to tell me. Such is life. > > Incidentally, the reason I chose a bronze type over the more original tin can > type is that I had previously been down that route. In the couple of years it > had been sitting in my garage, waiting for me to get round to fitting it, > about 50% of the surface had been consumed with rust. The thought of it > eventually being exposed to the elements under my car horrified me. > > At the same time I bought a Bell's stainless steel exhaust from B&G. When I > came to fit the centre section, one of the mounting brackets was welded in the > wrong place. They told me to drill another set of holes in the chassis to > make it fit. I declined to do this, and eventually they changed it. I wonder > what they would have done if they had been fitting it to a car they were > restoring for an unsuspecting customer? > > Now I have come to fit the front section and find that the bracket welded to > it midway along, that picks up one of the bolts of the bell housing, is at > least 2 inches out of position. Again they have agreed to replace it, but > will they ever tell the person that made it? I doubt it. Such is life. > > Peter Cole. > > > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

[Michaael DeRentz]

Dear Harry, Is it possible that the push rod is binding on the outer edge of the MC bore? Perhaps an accident or some other mounting problem brought the two out of alignment. Offbeat, but possible. Good luck, Michael DeRentz [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Barc Cunningham]

Group; My master cylinder is locked up solid. Probably the piston covering the hole to the tank. What is the amount to be trimmed off the end to allow it to clear the hole? All the best, Barc

[Skip Kelsey]

Barc; Trim .050 off the the piston. Skip Kelsey................................................ At 02:25 PM 4/12/03 -0300, Barc Cunningham wrote:

>Group; >My master cylinder is locked up solid. Probably the piston covering the >hole >to the tank. What is the amount to be trimmed off the end to allow it to >clear >the hole? All the best, Barc > > > > > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Barc Cunningham]

Skip & Terry; Thanks for the help. Barc