Castellated nut remover

[FDShade@aol.com]

Ben Cordson (sculptart@aol.com) asked "where could I economically find the large socket tool to remove the lock nuts?" Ben - are you talking about the circular notched locking nut? If so, I bought a piece of 2" heavy duty pvc plastic pipe cut off a 3" section and cut notches in one end to correspond with the slots in the lock nut. Then I drilled a 3/8" hole through the other end to accomodate a 1/4" bar (screwdriver is what I used) in order to twist the gadget and remove the notched locking nuts. Jim Shade West Covina CA

[Robert Grunau]

Hi Jim,

I think a plastic pipe and screwdriver are MUCH too weak to properly tighten the rear wheel bearing nut. I don t have an exact torque requirement for this bearing nut but would guess at about 75 to 80 ft-lbs. The nut must hold the inner wheel bearing race securely on the axle tube with no movement. If the inner race moves, the bearing will fret the axle tube and an expensive repair results.

I have made a nut removal tool with four tines using a piece of steel pipe with a hole in the end to accept a heavy bar and my full weight.

Another alternative is to buy a 4 wheel drive locknut socket to suit.

Or buy MGA locknuts which are 8 sided and a suitable socket.

Or Roger Furneaux has hex nuts.

Any way you do it, the bearing nut must be tight.

Bob

Ben Cordson (sculptart@aol.com) asked "where could I economically find the large socket tool to remove the lock nuts?" Ben - are you talking about the circular notched locking nut? If so, I bought a piece of 2" heavy duty pvc plastic pipe cut off a 3" section and cut notches in one end to correspond with the slots in the lock nut. Then I drilled a 3/8" hole through the other end to accomodate a 1/4" bar (screwdriver is what I used) in order to twist the gadget and remove the notched locking nuts. Jim Shade West Covina CA Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

[Roger Furneaux]

Re: [mg-tabc] Castellated nut remover

[quote] Bob took the words right out of my mouth! I do these up to [b]130[/b] lbf. ft. and the proper tool for the job is a large socket, 3/4' sq. drive, and a torque wrench. And for those new to the list (and others with short memories) I repeat that the correct nut for the TA/B/C is a [b]hexagon[/b], NOT the 'orrible slotted thingy, which is a hang-over from MMM cars. I can supply nuts with a lip-seal incorporated, to keep the oil in the diff, or without. Originally these were 1 1/4" BSW size (2.05" AF) but this size socket is very difficult to find, so now I make them 50mm AF which you can also tighten with a good old American 2" AF. PLS contact me off-list if interested. oc[b]T[/b]agonally TCRoger Bob Grunau wrote: I think a plastic pipe and screwdriver are MUCH too weak to properly tighten the rear wheel bearing nut. I dont have an exact torque requirement for this bearing nut but would guess at about 75 to 80 ft-lbs. The nut must hold the inner wheel bearing race securely on the axle tube with no movement. If the inner race moves, the bearing will fret the axle tube and an expensive repair results. I have made a nut removal tool with four tines using a piece of steel pipe with a hole in the end to accept a heavy bar and my full weight. Another alternative is to buy a 4 wheel drive locknut socket to suit. Or buy MGA locknuts which are 8 sided and a suitable socket. Or Roger Furneaux has hex nuts. Any way you do it, the bearing nut must be tight. Bob Ben Cordson ([u]sculptart@aol.com[/u]) asked "where could I economically find the large socket tool to remove the lock nuts?" Ben - are you talking about the circular notched locking nut? If so, I bought a piece of 2" heavy duty pvc plastic pipe cut off a 3" section and cut notches in one end to correspond with the slots in the lock nut. Then I drilled a 3/8" hole through the other end to accomodate a 1/4" bar (screwdriver is what I used) in order to twist the gadget and remove the notched locking nuts. Jim Shade West Covina CA Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service [u]http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/[/u]> . Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service [u]http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/[/u]> .

[/quote]

[Robert Grunau]

Re: [mg-tabc] Castellated nut remover Hi Roger,

I know you have stated on many occassions the TC rear bearing nuts are hexagon. But in all my 36 years of messing about with far too many TAs, TBs and TCs I have NEVER seen anything except the orrible slotted thingy used as a wheel bearing nut. Surely all the cars I have worked on were not retro fitted with MMM slotted nuts. I think the TA, TB and TC also used the slotted nuts. Anyway, the smart thing is to replace them with something you can get a socket on ( hexagon or octagon ) and torque them up tight.

Bob

Bob took the words right out of my mouth! I do these up to [b]130[/b] lbf. ft. and the proper tool for the job is a large socket, 3/4' sq. drive, and a torque wrench. And for those new to the list (and others with short memories) I repeat that the correct nut for the TA/B/C is a [b]hexagon[/b], NOT the 'orrible slotted thingy, which is a hang-over from MMM cars. I can supply nuts with a lip-seal incorporated, to keep the oil in the diff, or without. Originally these were 1 1/4" BSW size (2.05" AF) but this size socket is very difficult to find, so now I make them 50mm AF which you can also tighten with a good old American 2" AF. PLS contact me off-list if interested. oc[b]T[/b]agonally TCRoger

[Chip Old]

On Sat, 7 Jul 2001, Roger Furneaux wrote:

> And for those new to the list (and others with short memories) I > repeat that the correct nut for the TA/B/C is a hexagon, NOT the > 'orrible slotted thingy, which is a hang-over from MMM cars. > > I can supply nuts with a lip-seal incorporated, to keep the oil in the > diff, or without. Originally these were 1 1/4" BSW size (2.05" AF) but > this size socket is very difficult to find, so now I make them 50mm AF > which you can also tighten with a good old American 2" AF.

The correct nut is the one that holds the thing together. Both the castellated nut and the hex nut do that equally well. If originality is the issue, then your nut with the Metric hex size is no more original than the castellated type. The lip seal is a bonus, but if I remember correctly someone out there makes the castellated type with a lip seal too. -- Chip Old 1948 M.G. TC TC6710 XPAG7430 NEMGTR #2271 Cub Hill, Maryland 1962 Triumph TR4 CT3154LO CT3479E fold@bcpl.net

[R. Zwart]

And who is that "out there" who makes the original Castellated Type with the Lip seal??????? BOB Chip Old wrote:

On Sat, 7 Jul 2001, Roger Furneaux wrote:

> And for those new to the list (and others with short memories) I > repeat that the correct nut for the TA/B/C is a hexagon, NOT the > 'orrible slotted thingy, which is a hang-over from MMM cars. > > I can supply nuts with a lip-seal incorporated, to keep the oil in the > diff, or without. Originally these were 1 1/4" BSW size (2.05" AF) but > this size socket is very difficult to find, so now I make them 50mm AF > which you can also tighten with a good old American 2" AF.

The correct nut is the one that holds the thing together. Both the castellated nut and the hex nut do that equally well. If originality is the issue, then your nut with the Metric hex size is no more original than the castellated type. The lip seal is a bonus, but if I remember correctly someone out there makes the castellated type with a lip seal too.

-- Chip Old 1948 M.G. TC TC6710 XPAG7430 NEMGTR #2271 Cub Hill, Maryland 1962 Triumph TR4 CT3154LO CT3479E fold@bcpl.net

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[Victoria Vernon]

I made mine from a piece of steam tubing leaving 8 driving studs. This, together with care ala Sherril has ensured the axles on my car run true and oil proof and invite good comment from following T Types.

I am again visiting the cloudy shores of England in September. My trip in February/ March, much taken up with my daughter's house hunting, left me very little time for things MG. Of course the weather didn't help.

I arrive 6th Sept. and leave 7th Oct. and apart from a week's time share in Bude, Cornwall 22nd to 29th Sept., will be staying in High Wycombe and travelling from there with maybe a day trip to Abingdon.

Clem

[DAI]

All, Regarding the 'orrible hex heads, Viv very kindly had a tool made up for me to remove this 'orrible thing. I bought replacement hex heads from Octagon club (they are 2-1/8 AF), then searched high and low for a hex socket that was big enough. Eventually ordered one from Stanley Tools for 7.5 GBP, that is 54mm AF. Perfect fit. Torqued up to about 130-150ft/lbs. Make sure the hub flange really does press against the outer race. In the TC service parts list, one of the photo pages shows hex heads. DAI --- Roger Furneaux roger.46tc@virgin.net> wrote: >

> Bob took the words right out of my mouth! I do these > up to 130 lbf. ft. and > the proper tool for the job is a large socket, 3/4' > sq. drive, and a torque > wrench. And for those new to the list (and others > with short memories) I > repeat that the correct nut for the TA/B/C is a > hexagon, NOT the 'orrible > slotted thingy, which is a hang-over from MMM cars. > > I can supply nuts with a lip-seal incorporated, to > keep the oil in the diff, > or without. Originally these were 1 1/4" BSW size > (2.05" AF) but this size > socket is very difficult to find, so now I make them > 50mm AF which you can > also tighten with a good old American 2" AF. > > PLS contact me off-list if interested. > > ocTagonally > > TCRoger > > Bob Grunau wrote: > I think a plastic pipe and screwdriver are MUCH > too weak to properly > tighten the rear wheel bearing nut. I dont have an > exact torque requirement > for this bearing nut but would guess at about 75 to > 80 ft-lbs. The nut must > hold the inner wheel bearing race securely on the > axle tube with no > movement. If the inner race moves, the bearing will > fret the axle tube and > an expensive repair results. > > I have made a nut removal tool with four tines using > a piece of steel pipe > with a hole in the end to accept a heavy bar and > my full weight. > > Another alternative is to buy a 4 wheel drive > locknut socket to suit. > > Or buy MGA locknuts which are 8 sided and a suitable > socket. > > Or Roger Furneaux has hex nuts. > > Any way you do it, the bearing nut must be tight. > > Bob > > > > Ben Cordson (sculptart@aol.com) asked > > "where could I economically find the large socket > tool to remove the lock > nuts?" > > Ben - are you talking about the circular notched > locking nut? If so, > > I bought a piece of 2" heavy duty pvc plastic pipe > cut off a 3" section and > cut notches in one end to correspond with the slots > in the lock nut. Then I > > drilled a 3/8" hole through the other end to > accomodate a 1/4" bar > (screwdriver is what I used) in order to twist the > gadget and remove the > notched locking nuts. > > Jim Shade West Covina CA > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! > Terms of Service > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> . > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! > Terms of Service > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> . >

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[Paul Huck]

More correctly, is that 'orrible 'ex 'eads ? PTH

----- Original Message ----- From: DAI dairwin_2000@yahoo.com> To: Roger Furneaux roger.46tc@virgin.net>; cgrunau@pathcom.com> Cc: .T-ABCs mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2001 3:55 PM Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Castellated nut remover > All, > > Regarding the 'orrible hex heads, Viv very kindly had > a tool made up for me to remove this 'orrible thing. > > I bought replacement hex heads from Octagon club (they > are 2-1/8 AF), then searched high and low for a hex > socket that was big enough. Eventually ordered one > from Stanley Tools for 7.5 GBP, that is 54mm AF. > Perfect fit. > > Torqued up to about 130-150ft/lbs. Make sure the hub > flange really does press against the outer race. > > In the TC service parts list, one of the photo pages > shows hex heads. > > DAI > > --- Roger Furneaux roger.46tc@virgin.net> wrote: > > > Bob took the words right out of my mouth! I do these > > up to 130 lbf. ft. and > > the proper tool for the job is a large socket, 3/4' > > sq. drive, and a torque > > wrench. And for those new to the list (and others > > with short memories) I > > repeat that the correct nut for the TA/B/C is a > > hexagon, NOT the 'orrible > > slotted thingy, which is a hang-over from MMM cars. > > > > I can supply nuts with a lip-seal incorporated, to > > keep the oil in the diff, > > or without. Originally these were 1 1/4" BSW size > > (2.05" AF) but this size > > socket is very difficult to find, so now I make them > > 50mm AF which you can > > also tighten with a good old American 2" AF. > > > > PLS contact me off-list if interested. > > > > ocTagonally > > > > TCRoger > > > > Bob Grunau wrote: > > I think a plastic pipe and screwdriver are MUCH > > too weak to properly > > tighten the rear wheel bearing nut. I dont have an > > exact torque requirement > > for this bearing nut but would guess at about 75 to > > 80 ft-lbs. The nut must > > hold the inner wheel bearing race securely on the > > axle tube with no > > movement. If the inner race moves, the bearing will > > fret the axle tube and > > an expensive repair results. > > > > I have made a nut removal tool with four tines using > > a piece of steel pipe > > with a hole in the end to accept a heavy bar and > > my full weight. > > > > Another alternative is to buy a 4 wheel drive > > locknut socket to suit. > > > > Or buy MGA locknuts which are 8 sided and a suitable > > socket. > > > > Or Roger Furneaux has hex nuts. > > > > Any way you do it, the bearing nut must be tight. > > > > Bob > > > > > > > > Ben Cordson (sculptart@aol.com) asked > > > > "where could I economically find the large socket > > tool to remove the lock > > nuts?" > > > > Ben - are you talking about the circular notched > > locking nut? If so, > > > > I bought a piece of 2" heavy duty pvc plastic pipe > > cut off a 3" section and > > cut notches in one end to correspond with the slots > > in the lock nut. Then I > > > > drilled a 3/8" hole through the other end to > > accomodate a 1/4" bar > > (screwdriver is what I used) in order to twist the > > gadget and remove the > > notched locking nuts. > > > > Jim Shade West Covina CA > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! > > Terms of Service > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> . > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! > > Terms of Service > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> . > > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Get your free @yahoo.co.uk address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk > or your free @yahoo.ie address at http://mail.yahoo.ie > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

[C Sherriff]

Heres for debate then !!! I too have almost never seen the Non slotted nuts - TA and TB seem almost invariably to have had the slots, on TC the Hexagon is more common but not more than 50% Id say. I have Always considered the Hexagon to be a replacement product and maybe introduced somewhere at the end of TC production. No doubt in 50 years we will be debating the exact date at which Abingdon introduced the Tapered Halfshaft and at what chassis number the first Datsun steering box was introduced on the Abingdon Production line! Clive. =================================================

>>>I know you have stated on many occassions the TC rear bearing nuts are

hexagon. But in all my 36 years of messing about with far too many TAs, TBs and TCs I have NEVER seen anything except the orrible slotted thingy used as a wheel bearing nut. Surely all the cars I have worked on were not retro fitted with MMM slotted nuts. I think the TA, TB and TC also used the slotted nuts. Anyway, the smart thing is to replace them with something you can get a socket on ( hexagon or octagon ) and torque them up tight. Bob Bob took the words right out of my mouth! I do these up to 130 lbf. ft. and the proper tool for the job is a large socket, 3/4' sq. drive, and a torque wrench. And for those new to the list (and others with short memories) I repeat that the correct nut for the TA/B/C is a hexagon, NOT the 'orrible slotted thingy, which is a hang-over from MMM cars.