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2014 7:21 AM [b]Subject:[/b] RE: [mg-tabc] Re: Front Wheel Bearings Hi Joe et All, Sorry, WRONG, you use a TIGHT stub axle nut and spacers properly shimmed no matter if using ball bearings or tapered roller bearings on a MMM MG or TA/TB/TC. Same as MGB which uses tapered roller bearings. . Yes for am American car, different system but NOT suitable for an MG. Bob ,. [quote] -----Original Message----- [b]From:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com][b]On Behalf Of [/b]Joe Curto [b]Sent:[/b] Thursday, April 10, 2014 5:49 PM [b]To:[/b] bdavispics@yahoo.com; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [mg-tabc] Re: Front Wheel BearingsI did not get all of this from the beginning but if you are fitting ball bearings with spacer between them the nut is tight , if you are using tapered roller bearings like an American car and is set up without spacers than that is the tighten /loosen procedure , if you are doing like an MGB with tapered roller bearings & shims that is another procedure again Joe Curto 718-762-7878 www.joecurto.com Thanks Steve, Bob, Roger and all for the good advice. I've tightened the nuts. Torquing to 80 ft-lbs still allowed the hub to turn. They were magnafluxed back in the Fall but I'll check them again after a few miles to make sure the nuts are still very tight!!! Apparently the article saying to torque the nut to about 10 ft-lbs, back off one flat and then loosen till the pin fits is not such good advice after all. That ends up hardly (if any) more than finger tight. Regards, Bill
Front wheel bearings
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- Posts: 12
- Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2014 2:48 pm
Re: Front Wheel Bearings
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Tue Jun 01, 2010 11:18 am
Re: Front Wheel Bearings
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#ygrps-yiv-1524549113yiv1014031383ygrp-text tt { font-size:120%;} #ygrps-yiv-1524549113 #ygrps-yiv-1524549113yiv1014031383 #ygrps-yiv-1524549113yiv1014031383ygrp-vital ul li:last-child { border-right:none !important;} #ygrps-yiv-1524549113----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] grunau.garage@sympatico.ca [b]To:[/b] joecurto@aol.com ; bdavispics@yahoo.com ; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, April 11, 2014 7:21 AM [b]Subject:[/b] RE: [mg-tabc] Re: Front Wheel Bearings Hi Joe et All, Sorry, WRONG, you use a TIGHT stub axle nut and spacers properly shimmed no matter if using ball bearings or tapered roller bearings on a MMM MG or TA/TB/TC. Same as MGB which uses tapered roller bearings. . Yes for am American car, different system but NOT suitable for an MG. Bob ,. [quote] -----Original Message----- [b]From:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com][b]On Behalf Of [/b]Joe Curto [b]Sent:[/b] Thursday, April 10, 2014 5:49 PM [b]To:[/b] bdavispics@yahoo.com; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [mg-tabc] Re: Front Wheel Bearings I did not get all of this from the beginning but if you are fitting ball bearings with spacer between them the nut is tight , if you are using tapered roller bearings like an American car and is set up without spacers than that is the tighten /loosen procedure , if you are doing like an MGB with tapered roller bearings & shims that is another procedure again Joe Curto 718-762-7878 www.joecurto.com Thanks Steve, Bob, Roger and all for the good advice. I've tightened the nuts. Torquing to 80 ft-lbs still allowed the hub to turn. They were magnafluxed back in the Fall but I'll check them again after a few miles to make sure the nuts are still very tight!!! Apparently the article saying to torque the nut to about 10 ft-lbs, back off one flat and then loosen till the pin fits is not such good advice after all. That ends up hardly (if any) more than finger tight. Regards, Bill
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Re: Front Wheel Bearings
[/quote]My two cents worth Please remember to check the little spacer that sits behind the inner bearing, (ball or tapered roller). These are shallow and I have personal experience with them being dished concave and also cracked in two. Will definitely upset the bearing torque setting, and perhaps leading to the brake drum rubbing the backing plate as well as other bad things. Ray Nierlich On Friday, April 11, 2014 10:34 AM, Rothgene rothgene@msn.com wrote: Right on Bob, now explain "PROPERLY SHIMMED" and that should leave no doubts on the subject. Gene Roth ----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] grunau.garage@sympatico.ca [b]To:[/b] joecurto@aol.com ; bdavispics@yahoo.com ; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, April 11, 2014 7:21 AM [b]Subject:[/b] RE: [mg-tabc] Re: Front Wheel Bearings Hi Joe et All, Sorry, WRONG, you use a TIGHT stub axle nut and spacers properly shimmed no matter if using ball bearings or tapered roller bearings on a MMM MG or TA/TB/TC. Same as MGB which uses tapered roller bearings. . Yes for am American car, different system but NOT suitable for an MG. Bob ,. [quote] -----Original Message----- [b]From:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com][b]On Behalf Of [/b]Joe Curto [b]Sent:[/b] Thursday, April 10, 2014 5:49 PM [b]To:[/b] bdavispics@yahoo.com; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [mg-tabc] Re: Front Wheel Bearings I did not get all of this from the beginning but if you are fitting ball bearings with spacer between them the nut is tight , if you are using tapered roller bearings like an American car and is set up without spacers than that is the tighten /loosen procedure , if you are doing like an MGB with tapered roller bearings & shims that is another procedure again Joe Curto 718-762-7878 www.joecurto.com Thanks Steve, Bob, Roger and all for the good advice. I've tightened the nuts. Torquing to 80 ft-lbs still allowed the hub to turn. They were magnafluxed back in the Fall but I'll check them again after a few miles to make sure the nuts are still very tight!!! Apparently the article saying to torque the nut to about 10 ft-lbs, back off one flat and then loosen till the pin fits is not such good advice after all. That ends up hardly (if any) more than finger tight. Regards, Bill
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Re: Front Wheel Bearings
[/quote][quote] Right on Bob, now explain "PROPERLY SHIMMED" and that should leave no doubts on the subject. Gene Roth Hi Joe et All, Sorry, WRONG, you use a TIGHT stub axle nut and spacers properly shimmed no matter if using ball bearings or tapered roller bearings on a MMM MG or TA/TB/TC. Same as MGB which uses tapered roller bearings. . Yes for am American car, different system but NOT suitable for an MG. Bob ,.I did not get all of this from the beginning but if you are fitting ball bearings with spacer between them the nut is tight , if you are using tapered roller bearings like an American car and is set up without spacers than that is the tighten /loosen procedure , if you are doing like an MGB with tapered roller bearings & shims that is another procedure again Joe Curto 718-762-7878 www.joecurto.com Thanks Steve, Bob, Roger and all for the good advice. I've tightened the nuts. Torquing to 80 ft-lbs still allowed the hub to turn. They were magnafluxed back in the Fall but I'll check them again after a few miles to make sure the nuts are still very tight!!! Apparently the article saying to torque the nut to about 10 ft-lbs, back off one flat and then loosen till the pin fits is not such good advice after all. That ends up hardly (if any) more than finger tight. Regards, Bill
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Re: Front Wheel Bearings
[/quote]----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] grunau.garage@sympatico.ca [b]To:[/b] rothgene@msn.com ; joecurto@aol.com ; bdavispics@yahoo.com ; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Saturday, April 12, 2014 9:37 AM [b]Subject:[/b] RE: [mg-tabc] Re: Front Wheel Bearings Hi Gene, "Properly shimmed " means adding various thickness of shims to lengthen the bearing spacer to allow the hub to just spin easily with no slop and a tight stub axle nut. Usually shimming is only required if changing to superior tapered roller bearings. I should point out that if using tapered rollers bearings ( which I recommend and use ) the hub must be rotated as you tighten the stub axle nut. This allows the tapered rollers to "seat " properly. When done, the hub should just spin freely with no free play. Also, the TC shims required are 20 mm bore ( 0.790" ) , not easily found. MGB shims are 3/4" ( 0.750" ) so need to be opened up on the ID to suit the TC stub axle outer end. Bob, Canada [quote] Right on Bob, now explain "PROPERLY SHIMMED" and that should leave no doubts on the subject. Gene RothHi Joe et All, Sorry, WRONG, you use a TIGHT stub axle nut and spacers properly shimmed no matter if using ball bearings or tapered roller bearings on a MMM MG or TA/TB/TC. Same as MGB which uses tapered roller bearings. . Yes for am American car, different system but NOT suitable for an MG. Bob ,.
I did not get all of this from the beginning but if you are fitting ball bearings with spacer between them the nut is tight , if you are using tapered roller bearings like an American car and is set up without spacers than that is the tighten /loosen procedure , if you are doing like an MGB with tapered roller bearings & shims that is another procedure again Joe Curto 718-762-7878 www.joecurto.com Thanks Steve, Bob, Roger and all for the good advice. I've tightened the nuts. Torquing to 80 ft-lbs still allowed the hub to turn. They were magnafluxed back in the Fall but I'll check them again after a few miles to make sure the nuts are still very tight!!! Apparently the article saying to torque the nut to about 10 ft-lbs, back off one flat and then loosen till the pin fits is not such good advice after all. That ends up hardly (if any) more than finger tight. Regards, Bill
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Re: Front Wheel Bearings
[/quote]On 12 April 2014 19:57, Clifford J. Lockrow JayLock@localnet.com> wrote: [u][/u] Bob... Where couLd you find these shims??? WOULD A BEARING SUPPLY HOUSE HAVE THEM? & WOULD YOU REPEAT THE HOLE SIZE AGAIN I SEEM TO HAVE TRASHED IT. i DID T5HIS A COUPLE OF YEARS AGTO BUT MADE MY OWN SHIMS AND NOW WANT TO CHECK IT.....T HANX J ----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] grunau.garage@sympatico.ca [b]To:[/b] rothgene@msn.com ; joecurto@aol.com ; bdavispics@yahoo.com ; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Saturday, April 12, 2014 9:37 AM [b]Subject:[/b] RE: [mg-tabc] Re: Front Wheel Bearings Hi Gene, "Properly shimmed " means adding various thickness of shims to lengthen the bearing spacer to allow the hub to just spin easily with no slop and a tight stub axle nut. Usually shimming is only required if changing to superior tapered roller bearings. I should point out that if using tapered rollers bearings ( which I recommend and use ) the hub must be rotated as you tighten the stub axle nut. This allows the tapered rollers to "seat " properly. When done, the hub should just spin freely with no free play. Also, the TC shims required are 20 mm bore ( 0.790" ) , not easily found. MGB shims are 3/4" ( 0.750" ) so need to be opened up on the ID to suit the TC stub axle outer end. Bob, Canada [quote] Right on Bob, now explain "PROPERLY SHIMMED" and that should leave no doubts on the subject. Gene Roth Hi Joe et All, Sorry, WRONG, you use a TIGHT stub axle nut and spacers properly shimmed no matter if using ball bearings or tapered roller bearings on a MMM MG or TA/TB/TC. Same as MGB which uses tapered roller bearings. . Yes for am American car, different system but NOT suitable for an MG. Bob ,. I did not get all of this from the beginning but if you are fitting ball bearings with spacer between them the nut is tight , if you are using tapered roller bearings like an American car and is set up without spacers than that is the tighten /loosen procedure , if you are doing like an MGB with tapered roller bearings & shims that is another procedure again Joe Curto 718-762-7878 www.joecurto.com Thanks Steve, Bob, Roger and all for the good advice. I've tightened the nuts. Torquing to 80 ft-lbs still allowed the hub to turn. They were magnafluxed back in the Fall but I'll check them again after a few miles to make sure the nuts are still very tight!!! Apparently the article saying to torque the nut to about 10 ft-lbs, back off one flat and then loosen till the pin fits is not such good advice after all. That ends up hardly (if any) more than finger tight. Regards, Bill
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Re: Front Wheel Bearings

[/quote][quote] Bob... Where couLd you find these shims??? WOULD A BEARING SUPPLY HOUSE HAVE THEM? & WOULD YOU REPEAT THE HOLE SIZE AGAIN I SEEM TO HAVE TRASHED IT. i DID T5HIS A COUPLE OF YEARS AGTO BUT MADE MY OWN SHIMS AND NOW WANT TO CHECK IT.....T HANX J ----- Original Message ----- Hi Gene, "Properly shimmed " means adding various thickness of shims to lengthen the bearing spacer to allow the hub to just spin easily with no slop and a tight stub axle nut. Usually shimming is only required if changing to superior tapered roller bearings. I should point out that if using tapered rollers bearings ( which I recommend and use ) the hub must be rotated as you tighten the stub axle nut. This allows the tapered rollers to "seat " properly. When done, the hub should just spin freely with no free play. Also, the TC shims required are 20 mm bore ( 0.790" ) , not easily found. MGB shims are 3/4" ( 0.750" ) so need to be opened up on the ID to suit the TC stub axle outer end. Bob, Canada
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- Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 3:35 pm
Re: Front Wheel Bearings

Bob... Where couLd you find these shims??? WOULD A BEARING SUPPLY HOUSE HAVE THEM? & WOULD YOU REPEAT THE HOLE SIZE AGAIN I SEEM TO HAVE TRASHED IT. i DID T5HIS A COUPLE OF YEARS AGTO BUT MADE MY OWN SHIMS AND NOW WANT TO CHECK IT.....T HANX J----- Original Message ----- Hi Gene,"Properly shimmed " means adding various thickness of shims to lengthen the bearing spacer to allow the hub to just spin easily with no slop and a tight stub axle nut. Usually shimming is only required if changing to superior tapered roller bearings. I should point out that if using tapered rollers bearings ( which I recommend and use ) the hub must be rotated as you tighten the stub axle nut. This allows the tapered rollers to "seat " properly. When done, the hub should just spin freely with no free play. Also, the TC shims required are 20 mm bore ( 0.790" ) , not easily found. MGB shims are 3/4" ( 0.750" ) so need to be opened up on the ID to suit the TC stub axle outer end. Bob, Canada
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- Posts: 57
- Joined: Sun Dec 21, 2003 12:27 pm
Front Wheel Bearings

Bob... Where couLd you find these shims??? WOULD A BEARING SUPPLY HOUSE HAVE THEM? & WOULD YOU REPEAT THE HOLE SIZE AGAIN I SEEM TO HAVE TRASHED IT. i DID T5HIS A COUPLE OF YEARS AGTO BUT MADE MY OWN SHIMS AND NOW WANT TO CHECK IT.....T HANX J----- Original Message ----- Hi Gene,"Properly shimmed " means adding various thickness of shims to lengthen the bearing spacer to allow the hub to just spin easily with no slop and a tight stub axle nut. Usually shimming is only required if changing to superior tapered roller bearings. I should point out that if using tapered rollers bearings ( which I recommend and use ) the hub must be rotated as you tighten the stub axle nut. This allows the tapered rollers to "seat " properly. When done, the hub should just spin freely with no free play. Also, the TC shims required are 20 mm bore ( 0.790" ) , not easily found. MGB shims are 3/4" ( 0.750" ) so need to be opened up on the ID to suit the TC stub axle outer end. Bob, Canada
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Re: Front Wheel Bearings

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#ygrps-yiv-1577351688yiv0098584111ygrp-text tt { font-size:120%;} #ygrps-yiv-1577351688 #ygrps-yiv-1577351688yiv0098584111 #ygrps-yiv-1577351688yiv0098584111ygrp-vital ul li:last-child { border-right:none !important;} #ygrps-yiv-1577351688[quote] Bob... Where couLd you find these shims??? WOULD A BEARING SUPPLY HOUSE HAVE THEM? & WOULD YOU REPEAT THE HOLE SIZE AGAIN I SEEM TO HAVE TRASHED IT. i DID T5HIS A COUPLE OF YEARS AGTO BUT MADE MY OWN SHIMS AND NOW WANT TO CHECK IT.....T HANX J ----- Original Message ----- Hi Gene, "Properly shimmed " means adding various thickness of shims to lengthen the bearing spacer to allow the hub to just spin easily with no slop and a tight stub axle nut. Usually shimming is only required if changing to superior tapered roller bearings. I should point out that if using tapered rollers bearings ( which I recommend and use ) the hub must be rotated as you tighten the stub axle nut. This allows the tapered rollers to "seat " properly. When done, the hub should just spin freely with no free play. Also, the TC shims required are 20 mm bore ( 0.790" ) , not easily found. MGB shims are 3/4" ( 0.750" ) so need to be opened up on the ID to suit the TC stub axle outer end. Bob, Canada
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