Shims

[Bob Grunau]

I don't know of any source for pre-cut shims. I make my own. I agree, use steel. Buy various thickness rolls of steel shim stock. Comes in 0.001", 0.002", 0.003" etc. I have 1,2,3,4,5, 10 and 15 thou thickness steel stock. Take a good nail scissors to cut the thin ones, tin snips for the thicker ones. The shim does not have to be perfect, just as long as it sits flat in the hub recess. Leave the hub 0.004" open for the bearing crush. Make sure you consider the flange gasket thickness if using one. I shim the hub so the flanges are 0.004" open and use only a good gasket goo between the flanges. Regards, Bob Grunau I think steel is the best idea for shims. Brass is just way too soft. - does anyone have a source for a selection of precut shims for the rear hubs? if not what is the best material to make these from? brass shim stock? if so about what thickness and how best to cut the shims out of this material? will gasket material work? cutting an accurate circle in shim stock with a razorblade without it tearing looks a bit tedious. any suggestions? thanks , charlie [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Bob Grunau]

Hi Tom, Any good bearing supplier or tool supplier or do it yourself type store should have them. It's been so long since I bought any I can't remember where I got them. They come in 6" wide rolls, various lengths per roll. Try MSC Industrial Supply, Catalogue, page 2640, item " 00055046, Shim Stock Assorted Rolls, Steel, 6" x 50"- 1,2,3,5 thou. $18.41 the package. My catalogue is 1999/2000 so the page number may have changed. The catalogue is about 4200 pages, LOTS of interesting stuff. Or page 2640, item 00055913, 15 piece steel shim assortments, 6" x 12", 1,1.5,2,3,4,5,7,8,10,12,15,20,25,31 thou ( sorry, can't be bothered putting in all the 00's and decimals ),$23.75. This package is probably all you need for one or two cars. Will also cover you for front tapered wheel bearing shims. MSC are located in NY State but have 100 branches in various States. Call 1-800-645-7270 or for internet www.mscdirect.com. .They say they will ship same day. Good luck, Bob Where do you obtain the shim steel? I can't obtain locally. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[m_e_jablonski]

Charlie Another way is not to use shims but to machine the spigot of the hub in a lathe so it just clamps up the bearing. Assemble hub and bearing carrier (with bearing fitted) on the bench and measure the gap between the flanges. Then remove sufficient from the spigot to bring the gap down to 0.001" to 0.002". Assemble with silicone sealant instead of a gasket. If on initial assembly there's no gap between flanges you will have to measure the gap between spigot and bearing using flexigauge or measure the height of the spigot and the depth of the bearing with a depth micrometer. In this case some material will have to be removed from the flange to bring the spigot into engagement with the bearing. I was told that after pressing in the half shafts, the hub flanges often need truing to the shaft (i.e., they're not quite square). I found this to be the case on my hub/halfshafts. So I started off by checking this, truing the flange and then doing the trial assembly. Mark Jablonski Melbourne Australia

--- In mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com, MGTC1946@a... wrote: > does anyone have a source for a selection of precut shims for the rear hubs?

[Clive Sherriff]

But bad practice - the next time you might want the space you have just thrown away!! Use the shims Clive =============================================

----- Original Message ----- From: "m_e_jablonski" m.jablonski@unimelb.edu.au> To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 3:11 AM Subject: [mg-tabc] Re: shims > Charlie > > Another way is not to use shims but to machine the spigot of the hub > in a lathe so it just clamps up the bearing. > > Assemble hub and bearing carrier (with bearing fitted) on the bench > and measure the gap between the flanges. Then remove sufficient from > the spigot to bring the gap down to 0.001" to 0.002". Assemble with > silicone sealant instead of a gasket. If on initial assembly there's > no gap between flanges you will have to measure the gap between > spigot and bearing using flexigauge or measure the height of the > spigot and the depth of the bearing with a depth micrometer. In this > case some material will have to be removed from the flange to bring > the spigot into engagement with the bearing. > > I was told that after pressing in the half shafts, the hub flanges > often need truing to the shaft (i.e., they're not quite square). I > found this to be the case on my hub/halfshafts. So I started off by > checking this, truing the flange and then doing the trial assembly. > > Mark Jablonski > Melbourne Australia > > --- In mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com, MGTC1946@a... wrote: > > does anyone have a source for a selection of precut shims for the > rear hubs? > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

[Roger Furneaux]

hi Charlie - I presume you are following the advice in "TCs Forever"? However, Mike Sherrell now admits that he rather exaggerated the problem! With good hubs, when the bearing is clamped, there is a 6-thou gap between the flanges. Now some paper gaskets are about that or more with over-generous goo on both sides (I have measured old gaskets at 10-thou) so the easiest solution is to use instant-gasket. If you put a thin smear of oil on the carrier face, and keep the hub face dry, the instant gasket will stay in place next time you withdraw the hub/shaft, and is reusable. The i-g will of course take up the gap perfectly. No need to fiddle with shims! ocTagonally TCRoger Charlie Clark wrote:

>does anyone have a source for a selection of precut shims for the rear hubs? >if not what is the best material to make these from? brass shim stock? if so >about what thickness and how best to cut the shims out of this material? will >gasket material work? cutting an accurate circle in shim stock with a >razorblade without it tearing looks a bit tedious. any suggestions?

[DAI]

I used an old coffee tin. Flattened out, I cut several 'shims' from this. They are 11 thou thick. These, plus Roger's lipped seals, have proven a successful setup. DAI --- Roger Furneaux roger.46tc@virgin.net> wrote: > hi Charlie - I presume you are following the advice

> in "TCs Forever"? > However, Mike Sherrell now admits that he rather > exaggerated the problem! > With good hubs, when the bearing is clamped, there > is a 6-thou gap between > the flanges. Now some paper gaskets are about that > or more with > over-generous goo on both sides (I have measured old > gaskets at 10-thou) so > the easiest solution is to use instant-gasket. If > you put a thin smear of > oil on the carrier face, and keep the hub face dry, > the instant gasket will > stay in place next time you withdraw the hub/shaft, > and is reusable. The i-g > will of course take up the gap perfectly. No need to > fiddle with shims! > > ocTagonally > > TCRoger > > Charlie Clark wrote: > >does anyone have a source for a selection of precut > shims for the rear hubs? > >if not what is the best material to make these > from? brass shim stock? if so > >about what thickness and how best to cut the shims > out of this material? will > >gasket material work? cutting an accurate circle in > shim stock with a > >razorblade without it tearing looks a bit tedious. > any suggestions? > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

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[fnitz]

Actually, I think he was following the advice of MG in Service sheet 60 but measuring the gap prior to shimming is a good idea, as is the use of i-g. Fred TC1353 -----Original Message----- From: Roger Furneaux [mailto:roger.46tc@virgin.net] Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2003 2:42 AM To: MGTC1946@aol.com Cc: .T-ABCs Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] shims hi Charlie - I presume you are following the advice in "TCs Forever"? However, Mike Sherrell now admits that he rather exaggerated the problem! With good hubs, when the bearing is clamped, there is a 6-thou gap between the flanges. Now some paper gaskets are about that or more with over-generous goo on both sides (I have measured old gaskets at 10-thou) so the easiest solution is to use instant-gasket. If you put a thin smear of oil on the carrier face, and keep the hub face dry, the instant gasket will stay in place next time you withdraw the hub/shaft, and is reusable. The i-g will of course take up the gap perfectly. No need to fiddle with shims! ocTagonally TCRoger Charlie Clark wrote:

>does anyone have a source for a selection of precut shims for the rear

hubs?

>if not what is the best material to make these from? brass shim stock? if

so

>about what thickness and how best to cut the shims out of this material?

will

>gasket material work? cutting an accurate circle in shim stock with a >razorblade without it tearing looks a bit tedious. any suggestions?

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[ROSS TAYLOR]

Hi By the way having just pressed an axle into a rear hub What is the overall length from the outside of the hub to the end of the axle supposed to be ? ( to the nearest thou of course ) Ross TC 4284

>From: "Roger Furneaux" roger.46tc@virgin.net> >To: MGTC1946@aol.com >CC: ".T-ABCs" mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> >Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] shims >Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2003 10:42:01 +0000 > >hi Charlie - I presume you are following the advice in "TCs Forever"? >However, Mike Sherrell now admits that he rather exaggerated the problem! >With good hubs, when the bearing is clamped, there is a 6-thou gap between >the flanges. Now some paper gaskets are about that or more with >over-generous goo on both sides (I have measured old gaskets at 10-thou) so >the easiest solution is to use instant-gasket. If you put a thin smear of >oil on the carrier face, and keep the hub face dry, the instant gasket will >stay in place next time you withdraw the hub/shaft, and is reusable. The >i-g >will of course take up the gap perfectly. No need to fiddle with shims! > >ocTagonally > >TCRoger > >Charlie Clark wrote: > >does anyone have a source for a selection of precut shims for the rear >hubs? > >if not what is the best material to make these from? brass shim stock? if >so > >about what thickness and how best to cut the shims out of this material? >will > >gasket material work? cutting an accurate circle in shim stock with a > >razorblade without it tearing looks a bit tedious. any suggestions? > > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

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[Bob Grunau]

Ross, I use 21 7/16" from the inner end of the axle shaft to the inner face of the hub where the axle enters the hub. 1/16" tolerance either way should be OK. Regards Bob Grunau - By the way having just pressed an axle into a rear hub What is the overall length from the outside of the hub to the end of the axle supposed to be ? ( to the nearest thou of course ) Ross TC 4284

[Boballey747]

Can someone tell the thickness of the shims that go under the rocker towers? The ones sold by Moss. Thanks Sent from my iPad