tweety removal with pictures or video

[K K]

[klrbugeater]

I'm going on a 3,400 mile trip in a few weeks on my KLR. 400 of those will be on gravel/semi-permafrost Manitoba Hwy-280, to Gillam.   I know some members in this group swear religiously, that standard oil in a KLR breaks down soon after 1,000 miles and reduces it's viscosity and sear strength. They change it soon after 1,000 miles. I also know that the KLR dirties up the oil quickly.  My  2 part question is: 1) How long, if I use a synthetic non-energy saving oil, should I go between oil and filter cleanings (I use a metal re-use filter)? 2) How is synthetic viscosity and shear effected, compared to standard oil, in the KLR? The reason I'm asking is I'm trying to reduce the number of things I have to do (change oil at the turn around point), to the KLR when I'm on that trip. Comments appreciated Maybe I should be asking Bob is the Oil Guy KLR Bugeater

[jeffsaline]

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[George Bynum]

I agree with the authoritative answer you received.  I don't assume synthetic will last longer, just start easier especially in cold weather. Hydraulics is my business, and there is NO reusable metal filter satisfactory for lube oil.

1) How long, if I use a synthetic non-energy saving oil, should I go between oil and filter cleanings (I use a metal re-use filter)?

[skypilot110]

Hear is the thing. Synthetic oil is light years beyond regular oil and will last far far longer. There is no question about that save for people that dont know anything about oil. The problem with "Lasts longer" is that it isnt the oil you have to worry about. It is the burned up crap in the oil, A.K.A. the carbon, that is the problem.

Syth will not burn up as fast thus there is less carbon by far than with normal petro based oil. That doesn't mean none. Even if none of the synth burned up there is carbon from fuel air blowing past the rings plus anything else that is ingested in the intake or pulled in via a vent or...  This is why synth turns black too.

By changing to synth you have slowed the production of carbon but you havent changed how you filter to get the crud out. Carbon molecules are about 8 microns if I recall and a good old fashion filter gets down to about 50. Hence the black.  If you added something like a bypass filter you could pull out down to about 2 microns according to Amsoil and Frantz. The problem is it is too big for bikes and doesnt make sense

My recommendation is use the synth then change it at about 2500-3000 miles. You dont need to change the filter while you are on the road. Changing the oil will get most of the carbon out, just change the filter at the next oil change. Just buy the oil and a disposable, cardboard and kitty little  style oil pan at a parts store and dump it there in the parking lot. Drop it all in their trash and hit the road again