need help

[Norm Keller]

FWIW, a compression or leak down test is not that helpful in diagnosing oil burning. Compression and leak down assess the compression sealing ability of the engine so issues such as oil ring condition, bearing oil throw off, will not be indicated. One can remove the oil ring and compression and leak down will be virtually unaffected. IME, using an inspection camera to assess piston crown deposits is much more reliable. How much oil is it burning and under what riding conditions?

[zoot .]

So for the update, recall a 2007 retrieved with less than break in mileage. Bunch of tweaks, high output stator, headlight relays, in dash voltmeter LED, blade fuse links. Got past the break in mileage and pretty soon after puked the tach. Gradual puke, with some needle dancing, then less, then nothing. Tested and resolved that the bike was a Sagittarian, and perhaps determined to discard the unnecessary items. Got a use tach from the online world and put it in. Didn't work. Check the possibilities by stealing the tach from my wife's bike, and found there was hope. Gave her tach back to her (one shouldn't push one's luck too far) and got a tach from Mark (thanks Mark), and there she was, operational and whole again. Except that I had pinched some wires to the voltmeter when sliding the housings together, and started blowing fuses. Took a lot of testing to move up the line and find the short. Lighting circuit would blow usually, but sometimes the ignition circuit, which would work fine as long as the lighting fuse was out. And the bike ran great without the lights, and the tach worked fine. All discovered and put back together, but whoa, suddenly the tach doesn't work again. Can see the needle move off of dead zone when the bike starts (hope), but no registry of rpm. Wires good, even the variable lighting of the test light on the black wire with increase rpm. Voltmeter tied into red/blue of meter lights (just replaced with led), and sharing only the ground link, and even cut the lead to it just to insure it wasn't a circuit culprit. No joy. Having completely baffled myself with white wire circuit, and blue/white wire circuit, and red/blue relationships, I guess I'm wondering whether the increased output stator is related, whether it could be something in the relays cross wiring the circuits, whether the tach feed from the CDI unit would be a suspect, and whether this is better solved with scotch or tequila? Oh, and FWIW, the 100/80 headlight is way better light than the bikemaster 2400 lumen LED, IMO, though I do augment with LED spots. Happy Thanksgiving everyone, Todd (ready to drink but really didn't need this particular excuse)

[cycletip]

IMO you can get by easily on a thumper without a tach, but I get why you'd want to make her whole.  You may be on to something with regards to that high output stator but wouldn't a voltage regulator keep things in check?  One thing I do know, tequila most likely make the whole project a lot more interesting.  Not in a good way!  Who makes this stator?  Maybe they can offer some advice?  I have one (alternator) to install on an old 91 BMW GS airhead, now you've succeeded to make me nervous.  Monty

[zoot .]

Don't have a name on the stator other than it was an ebay purchase model 045. Installed at the 323 mile mark. Headlight relays at 600 miles. First tach failure at 3300 miles. In dash voltmeter indicates a good charge, and I've never seen anything amiss in the charging voltage when tested. I've wondered about ground wire feedback but that's only because I'm twisting my brain for maybes. None of it makes sense to me. t. On 11/22/2015 6:58 AM, cycletip@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:

IMO you can get by easily on a thumper without a tach, but I get why you'd want to make her whole. You may be on to something with regards to that high output stator but wouldn't a voltage regulator keep things in check? One thing I do know, tequila most likely make the whole project a lot more interesting. Not in a good way! Who makes this stator? Maybe they can offer some advice? I have one (alternator) to install on an old 91 BMW GS airhead, now you've succeeded to make me nervous. Monty

[Norm Keller]

#ygrps-yiv-2053385792 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-2053385792cite {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;} #ygrps-yiv-2053385792 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-2053385792cite2 {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;margin-top:3px;padding-top:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-2053385792 .ygrps-yiv-2053385792plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-2053385792 .ygrps-yiv-2053385792plain tt {font-family:monospace;font-size:100%;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;white-space:pre-wrap;} #ygrps-yiv-2053385792 a img {border:0px;}#ygrps-yiv-2053385792 {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} #ygrps-yiv-2053385792 .ygrps-yiv-2053385792plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-2053385792 .ygrps-yiv-2053385792plain tt {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} This link has more details regarding the Gen1 wiring so may be of some use: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/uha92pqkxq4eoaw/AABwFh5AIevN4dlJeZUitdjsa?dl=0 It is updated periodically as I discover errors or improvements. I have a Gen2 version also for anyone who wants: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/bv8nr1untxi2inn/AABiA0CPjv2uDb4Q-bzpHyLEa?dl=0 Off for the day with DW but if interested PM and maybe we can identify likely causes.