mystery tube

[david zawadzki]

Gents, After releasing the air from the fork,changing the oil and tightening the top do i need to pump some air back into it? Sorry i know its a really basic question... -David

On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 2:05 PM, wrote: > ** > > > Bogdan, it looks like Jeff Kourey has some info on ATF viscosity. I weigh > 265 in my birthday suit, so over 100 pounds more than you. I also travel > with my bike loaded. > > Paul Streeter > > > > From: Bogdan Swider > To: "pdstreeter@..." , > "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Date: 04/10/2013 12:17 PM > Subject: Re: Fork Oil > > > > Interesting, Paul. The ATF that Andy and Jeff recommend is probably 7 > weight. Am I right about that ? Also a lighter weight might work for me > because I'm around 150 lb.. Then again I often travel with my bike loaded. > > Bogdan > > From: "pdstreeter@..." > Date: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 10:31 AM > To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Cc: Bogdan Swider > Subject: Re: Fork Oil > > > > Bogdan asked: > > >Also what weight fluid do you use ? 10 as the manual states or do you go > to 15 ? > > I highly recommend 7 weight fork oil. It gives a much smoother ride, it > cuts way back on the high speed compression damping causing jolts through > the bars every time you hit a sharp-edged rock or pothole. The whole > reason to upgrade your suspension is keep the wheel on the ground, with > the > thicker fork oil, it gets way too stiff. > > Paul Streeter > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > -- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 http://www.thelegendof/>www.thelegendofzarko.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[bigburlybaldbeardedbiker]

No. From: david zawadzki To: pdstreeter@... Cc: Bogdan Swider , "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Date: 05/16/2013 02:09 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Fork Oil Gents, After releasing the air from the fork,changing the oil and tightening the top do i need to pump some air back into it? Sorry i know its a really basic question... -David

On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 2:05 PM, wrote: Bogdan, it looks like Jeff Kourey has some info on ATF viscosity. I weigh 265 in my birthday suit, so over 100 pounds more than you. I also travel with my bike loaded. Paul Streeter From: Bogdan Swider To: "pdstreeter@..." , "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Date: 04/10/2013 12:17 PM Subject: Re: Fork Oil Interesting, Paul. The ATF that Andy and Jeff recommend is probably 7 weight. Am I right about that ? Also a lighter weight might work for me because I'm around 150 lb.. Then again I often travel with my bike loaded. Bogdan From: "pdstreeter@..." Date: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 10:31 AM To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Cc: Bogdan Swider Subject: Re: Fork Oil Bogdan asked: >Also what weight fluid do you use ? 10 as the manual states or do you go to 15 ? I highly recommend 7 weight fork oil. It gives a much smoother ride, it cuts way back on the high speed compression damping causing jolts through the bars every time you hit a sharp-edged rock or pothole. The whole reason to upgrade your suspension is keep the wheel on the ground, with the thicker fork oil, it gets way too stiff. Paul Streeter [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 www.thelegendofzarko.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Desert Datsuns]

Bleeders on forks are traditionally to let air *out*, they're not designed to keep air in. When forks heat up, the air inside expands and the pressure goes up, the bleeders allow the rider to let the pressure out. Not a big deal with the KLR, but it can make a difference on MX bikes. Ryan Phoenix, AZ david zawadzki wrote:

> Gents, > > After releasing the air from the fork,changing the oil and tightening the > top do i need to pump some air back into it? > Sorry i know its a really basic question... > > -David > > On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 2:05 PM, wrote: > >> ** >> >> >> Bogdan, it looks like Jeff Kourey has some info on ATF viscosity. I weigh >> 265 in my birthday suit, so over 100 pounds more than you. I also travel > >> with my bike loaded. >> >> Paul Streeter >> >> >> >> From: Bogdan Swider >> To: "pdstreeter@..." , >> "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> >> Date: 04/10/2013 12:17 PM >> Subject: Re: Fork Oil >> >> >> >> Interesting, Paul. The ATF that Andy and Jeff recommend is probably 7 >> weight. Am I right about that ? Also a lighter weight might work for me >> because I'm around 150 lb.. Then again I often travel with my bike loaded. >> >> Bogdan >> >> From: "pdstreeter@..." >> Date: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 10:31 AM >> To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> >> Cc: Bogdan Swider >> Subject: Re: Fork Oil >> >> >> >> Bogdan asked: >> >>> Also what weight fluid do you use ? 10 as the manual states or do you go >> to 15 ? >> >> I highly recommend 7 weight fork oil. It gives a much smoother ride, it >> cuts way back on the high speed compression damping causing jolts through >> the bars every time you hit a sharp-edged rock or pothole. The whole >> reason to upgrade your suspension is keep the wheel on the ground, with >> the >> thicker fork oil, it gets way too stiff. >> >> Paul Streeter >> >> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >> >> >> > > >

[Jud]

The book says the schraeder valves are only for releasing built-up air pressure. However, volumes have been written about pressurizing the forks to stiffen them up. Anywhere from 10 to 30 psi has been tried. Air pressure in forks was all the rage for a while, but then fell out of favor. Try it yourself, and see how you like it.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, david zawadzki wrote: > > Gents, > > After releasing the air from the fork,changing the oil and tightening the > top do i need to pump some air back into it? > Sorry i know its a really basic question... > > -David > > On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 2:05 PM, wrote: > > > ** > > > > > > Bogdan, it looks like Jeff Kourey has some info on ATF viscosity. I weigh > > 265 in my birthday suit, so over 100 pounds more than you. I also travel > > with my bike loaded. > > > > Paul Streeter > > > > > > > > From: Bogdan Swider > > To: "pdstreeter@..." , > > "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > > Date: 04/10/2013 12:17 PM > > Subject: Re: Fork Oil > > > > > > > > Interesting, Paul. The ATF that Andy and Jeff recommend is probably 7 > > weight. Am I right about that ? Also a lighter weight might work for me > > because I'm around 150 lb.. Then again I often travel with my bike loaded. > > > > Bogdan > > > > From: "pdstreeter@..." > > Date: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 10:31 AM > > To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > > Cc: Bogdan Swider > > Subject: Re: Fork Oil > > > > > > > > Bogdan asked: > > > > >Also what weight fluid do you use ? 10 as the manual states or do you go > > to 15 ? > > > > I highly recommend 7 weight fork oil. It gives a much smoother ride, it > > cuts way back on the high speed compression damping causing jolts through > > the bars every time you hit a sharp-edged rock or pothole. The whole > > reason to upgrade your suspension is keep the wheel on the ground, with > > the > > thicker fork oil, it gets way too stiff. > > > > Paul Streeter > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > -- > David Z > mobile: 646-267-1109 > http://www.thelegendof/>www.thelegendofzarko.com > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Desert Datsuns]

You can pressurize them, we used to on dirt bikes when we were younger, BUT you risk blowing the seals out. Ryan Phoenix, AZ Jud wrote:

> > > The book says the schraeder valves are only for releasing built-up air > pressure. However, volumes have been written about pressurizing the > forks to stiffen them up. Anywhere from 10 to 30 psi has been tried. Air > pressure in forks was all the rage for a while, but then fell out of > favor. Try it yourself, and see how you like it. > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com , > david zawadzki wrote: > > > > Gents, > > > > After releasing the air from the fork,changing the oil and tightening the > > top do i need to pump some air back into it? > > Sorry i know its a really basic question... > > > > -David > > > > On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 2:05 PM, wrote: > > > > > ** > > > > > > > > > Bogdan, it looks like Jeff Kourey has some info on ATF viscosity. I > weigh > > > 265 in my birthday suit, so over 100 pounds more than you. I also > travel > > > with my bike loaded. > > > > > > Paul Streeter > > > > > > > > > > > > From: Bogdan Swider > > > To: "pdstreeter@..." , > > > "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com " > DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > > > Date: 04/10/2013 12:17 PM > > > Subject: Re: Fork Oil > > > > > > > > > > > > Interesting, Paul. The ATF that Andy and Jeff recommend is probably 7 > > > weight. Am I right about that ? Also a lighter weight might work for me > > > because I'm around 150 lb.. Then again I often travel with my bike > loaded. > > > > > > Bogdan > > > > > > From: "pdstreeter@..." > > > Date: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 10:31 AM > > > To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > " DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > > > > Cc: Bogdan Swider > > > Subject: Re: Fork Oil > > > > > > > > > > > > Bogdan asked: > > > > > > >Also what weight fluid do you use ? 10 as the manual states or do > you go > > > to 15 ? > > > > > > I highly recommend 7 weight fork oil. It gives a much smoother ride, it > > > cuts way back on the high speed compression damping causing jolts > through > > > the bars every time you hit a sharp-edged rock or pothole. The whole > > > reason to upgrade your suspension is keep the wheel on the ground, with > > > the > > > thicker fork oil, it gets way too stiff. > > > > > > Paul Streeter > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > David Z > > mobile: 646-267-1109 > > http://www.thelegendof/>www.thelegendofzarko.com > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com http://www.avg.com> > Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5830 - Release Date: 05/16/13 >

[achesley43@ymail.com]

My method on this air thing is 1> when I put the forks back together, I shove down on the forks with the valve releasing with the front brake on to get all the air possible out of it. 2> after riding down a pretty ruff road for a bit and have the forks warmed up, I pull over and do this again. I'd rather the insides at a slight vaccum than any pressure. I think I've changed seals on my KLR about 4 times in the years I've had it.

[Fred Hink]

Seems as though I have had a run of bad fork seals in my shop lately. The KLR is one of the easiest to change fork seals, mostly because of it s tried and true (old) suspension technology. Some people want to just remove the seals without cleaning out all the junk that ends up in the bottom of the lower fork leg. That is fine for them but in a shop there are different requirements. To do a job right so it doesn t come back and need to be redone, it will pay to remove the lower fork leg and make sure it is clean so any sludge doesn t get back in a new seal and cause it to leak. SO, the first job is removing the forks from the bike. To do this you need to raise the front wheel off the ground, remove the front wheel and loosen the UPPER triple clamp bolts only. This is so you can put a wrench on and loosen the top fork plug while the lower triple clamps are still tight. Loosen the clamps on the fork boots and remove the caliper and everything else attached to the lower fork legs. Clean up the outside of the fork legs, since you have a leak there is going to be dirt and gunk on the outside that we don t want back on the inside. Remove the top fork plug and take out the spacer, washer and spring. Turn the fork upside down and drain out the old oil. You will need to pump the fork a few times to get most of the oil out. Let it drain for a few minutes upside down. So the next step is getting the fork seals out and there are several ways to do this. Compressed air works well but if you need to clean out the lower fork leg in either case you will need to first remove the clip that holds the wiper and fork seal in the lower leg. Since I don t use the compressed air trick in my shop I ll go on to how I do it. II will clamp the lower fork leg horizontally in my vice by the axle lug. I use an air impact wrench with hex driver to remove the bolt in the bottom of the lower leg. This bolt is what holds the upper fork to the lower leg. Once you have removed this bolt out and the clip holding the fork seals you can give the upper tube a tug and the whole assembly will come out of the lower leg. So you should see on the upper tube the wiper, then the seal followed by a washer, then the bushings for the lower and upper fork legs. The damper rod will be sticking out of the bottom of the upper fork leg and on the bottom will be a bushing that most likely will still be in the lower leg with all the gunk that you need to clean out. This bushing has a top and a bottom that are different so be sure that it goes back together correctly. The top will have the deeper recess. I think you ll figure it out but it s possible it can be installed both ways. I believe the top is the deeper recess inside this bushing but there is no way to know for sure as I have never seen any photos of this or any discussion of how it is supposed to be. (if anyone knows for sure be sure to speak up). I lay all the pieces you remove from your forks on a clean towel so you can see the order they go back together. Once you have everything apart, then you want to clean everything very well. A lot of times the reason fork seals go bad is because of damage to the upper tube that slides in to the fork seals. Take your fingernails and rub the upper tube feeling for any imperfections. If you find a rough spot, take a file very lightly over this surface until you can t feel this rough spot with your fingernails. You can use a solvent or most any other cleaner to get the sludge and dirt out of the inside and outside of your forks. Dry them well and you are ready to put it all back together. Once you are sure the forks are clean and dry, you can start the reassembly. Install the upper tube with damper rod sticking out. Be sure this bushing on the very bottom is facing the right way and install this in the lower leg. You ll need to keep the forks horizontal for this so you don t loose the bushing inside. Push this assembly all they way down and put in the fork spring temporarily. This will allow you to put a little pressure on the damper rod so you can attach the bolt on the bottom. Be sure the bolt, sealing (copper) washer and the sealing surfaces are all clean. You can use a little blue Loctite on this bolt. Tighten the bolt as this is what holds the forks together and keeps the fork oil from leaking out. The next steps is where you need to take the most care. The fork bushing on the upper tube will already be inside the lower leg but you will need to install the upper bushing that fits inside the lower leg on the top. I used a half round piece of PVC pipe that just fits around the fork tubes as a driver and be very sure you use a plastic or soft hammer for this procedure as you WILL damage your fork tubes if you use a steel hammer. Tap this PVC bushing/seal driver with your soft hammer until the upper fork bushing is flush with the recess where it is installed. Next goes the washer and then the seal. You will need to use your PVC driver to tap down the seal on top of the washer but be very careful of a few things. I first oil (motor oil if fine or you can use fork oil) the fork tube. Just a slight amount so the new seal will slide and not get damaged. Some mechanics will use a slight amount of grease inside the fork seals but I m not 100% convinced this is a good idea. Just be very careful that you have the seals installed correctly and not upside down, paying extra attention to any rough or sharp surfaces. Once driving in the seal be careful of the first lip of the seal that you don t use your driver on the lip and damage it. So once you are satisfied with the seal, the wiper (not all kits will have a wiper but most do) will install more easily but be sure there is room for the final clip. Install the clip and the only thing left is adding the right amount of 10wt. fork oil. You can use a different viscosity and volume of oil to satisfy your needs. Fork oil is added with the forks compressed and the fork springs removed. Pump the forks a few times to get the air out and settle the oil. You can add the oil by volume or by the level of the oil from the top of the fork tube. I feel the oil level method is more accurate. Once you have the oil in the forks replace the spring, upper washer and spacer before tightening the upper cap. Install your forks and front wheel. Be sure everything is tightened up and go for a ride. If you did everything correctly, you should have a nice riding KLR with more oil on the inside of the forks than the outside. The early model and late model KLR have slightly different forks but they are both a damper rod type and basically the difference is the length/diameter of the fork/spring/spacer and the amount of fork oil used. There is some good information here: http://www.klr650.marknet.us/forkoil.html I don t have a manual in front of me but the amount of fork oil for your bike can be easily googled. Good luck and let us know how it goes. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2015 3:16 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Fork Oi Well, it is time to install the Fork seals I have put it off plenty long enough. I have never done this before... always something. It is a 2009. Three Questions, any hints on getting the fork seals out? I don't have an air hose fitting so air pressure as I see on Youtube is not happening. Recommendations on type of Folk oil to replace it with? Quanity of Fork oil to replace, they have been leaking awhile. Thanks [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[achesley43@ymail.com]

Very good write up on the fork rebuild Fred. Thanks. I put up with a leaking left seal that would start leaking again after just a few hundred miles on out fine bad roads. Finally I took some 220 emerycloth and shoe shined the tubes , then, turned it to the  back side of the cloth and shoe shined them till had a really polished look. Super cleaned everything before putting it all back together and , so far, I have near 20,000 on them and no leaks. 

I did put Race Tech gold valves in there this spring , along with all new bushings. Guessing I have about 2,000 miles on this job with no problems but, want to experiment with drilling the damper rod holes a size larger than what Race Tech advised. 

Always fun to work on my old KLR. 

[Martin Earl]

sniipGuessing I have about 2,000 miles on this job with no problems but, want to experiment with drilling the damper rod holes a size larger than what Race Tech advised. un-snip I have 'Gold Valves' in my 98KLR650/685, installed by a previous owner, but unknown to me at the time of purchase. I bought the bike in 2008, and discovered the valves while replacing the fork seals~28K miles. An assumption was made, 'they are properly installed'During a recent, complete fork rebuild to include bushings/seals/wipers, a close examination of installation instructions that included 'tuning' of the valves (=tension on the valve spring), also showed where the drilled holes were supposed to be.Eagle Eye Jeff Saline compared the instructions/drawings to the forks on the bench...a further close examination of the parts indicated the damper rod was drilled, but unfortunately, the additional drilled damping hole used for increased oil passage, was done in an area that was covered up, and did absolutely nothing for the suspension.That has now been corrected by following the published instructions, which Jeff still had in his possession from his own, previous KLR valve installation. Moral of the story; Farkle can be installed and be absolutely worthless if installed incorrectly. revmaaatin.

On Mon, Sep 7, 2015 at 6:06 AM, achesley43@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Very good write up on the fork rebuild Fred. Thanks. I put up with a leaking left seal that would start leaking again after just a few hundred miles on out fine bad roads. Finally I took some 220 emerycloth and shoe shined the tubes , then, turned it to the back side of the cloth and shoe shined them till had a really polished look. Super cleaned everything before putting it all back together and , so far, I have near 20,000 on them and no leaks. I did put Race Tech gold valves in there this spring , along with all new bushings. Guessing I have about 2,000 miles on this job with no problems but, want to experiment with drilling the damper rod holes a size larger than what Race Tech advised. Always fun to work on my old KLR.

[Norm Keller]

Excellent write up as expected, Fred. It's better than what I have been providing when people ask so will steal it (with attributation). As for fork oil, I generally start with ATF unless the owner has identified a preference. ATF is inexpensive, high detergent, seal compatible, good anti-foam qualities, excellent extreme pressure qualities for both axial pressure and sliding friction. If the owner decides that a different weight is desired, we have a reference as to the starting point and the change will flush out more remaining material.