fix your speedometer drive

[daveygwhiz]

I knew 20k miles was too long to wait, but here I am measuring current clearances and not able to get the thinnest feeler under any cam lobe.  Do I just call 'em zero, take 'em out and add shims sized for the specified clearance? .... Dave

[Fred Hink]

Is your engine still running?  Does it run when it is cold and then stops running or behave differently when warmed up?  What size feeler gage did you try?  I doubt that you have zero clearance as it would not run that way for long.  When your engine warms up and metal expands this would keep the valve from closing.  So depending on what size feeler gage you tried, the clearance would be something less than that.  So if you tried a .002 feeler gage I  would guess your clearance to be .001 .  You may have already done some serious erosion to your valves and valve seats by running your valves this tight.  It is good to check your valves more often than 20K just so you know what they are doing.  New bikes that have been broken in and adjusted a time or two most likely can go a long time before needing adjustment again but you just can t be sure without checking.  Adjust your valves to the widest measurement within specifications and they will stay in adjustment longer, as all KLR s valve clearances will get tighter with use.  It is a common fallacy that valves only need to be adjusted when they become noisy.  Since KLRs get tighter with age, this noise or ticking never happens unless you have other serious problems.   If you have a shim kit I d suggest making an initial adjustment using zero clearance as your starting point.  It s not going to be any less than that as your engine wouldn t be running.  Set the clearance to with wide side of specs.  This may take a time or two as you don t really know what clearances you are starting with.    Lots of good info here:  http://www.klr650.marknet.us/valves.html Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com (a happy valve is a tappy valve)   [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, July 21, 2015 12:15 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] valve shims     I knew 20k miles was too long to wait, but here I am measuring current clearances and not able to get the thinnest feeler under any cam lobe.  Do I just call 'em zero, take 'em out and add shims sized for the specified clearance? .... Dave

[jeffsaline]

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[Martin Earl]

Hi Dave,Could it be you are using a MM gauge and not an inch gauge to measure clearance? Take out your feeler gauge and read to us exactly what is printed on the feeler gauge that you could not get to go into the space between the cam-lobe and the bucket top. ie 0.002, 0.003, etc. or it might read 0.2mm; those are huge differences (and as Jeff said, make sure the engine is in the correct timing position to measure valve clearance. One KiLeRista in the past tried to use a 0.4mm feeler gauge for measurement, instead of a 0.004" feeler gauge, and the results were not what he expected.0.4mm = 0.016" and of course, that won't work. here is a resource to considerhttp://www.klr650.marknet.us/ go down the left column and see valve adjustmenthttp://www.klr650.marknet.us/valves.html also in that column are shim calculatorshttp://www.klr650.marknet.us/shimtable.html hth.m1.

On Tue, Jul 21, 2015 at 7:28 AM, salinej1@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u] On 20 Jul 2015 23:15:00 -0700 "foolstools@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes: I knew 20k miles was too long to wait, but here I am measuring current clearances and not able to get the thinnest feeler under any cam lobe. Do I just call 'em zero, take 'em out and add shims sized for the specified clearance? .... Dave <><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Dave, Fred already covered this pretty darn nicely. I use inch measurements for valve adjustment as that is how I think. Intake clearances are 0.004"-0.008". Exhaust clearances are 0.006"-0.010". Shims change sizes in 0.002" increments. Shim sizes are numbered like... 275, 270, 265, 260, 255, 250, 245,....... Shims are installed with the numbered side down so the cam contact doesn't rub the number off. The thinnest feeler gauge I've seen is 0.0015" but I'll guess you were using a 0.002". Before taking anything apart I'll suggest you again rotate the engine in a counterclockwise direction until the lazy T shows in the window and the cam lobes are pointed away from the center of the engine. Use a 0.004" feeler gauge and probe the cam/shim contact area. Sometimes it takes a bit of effort to get the angle correct so a feeler gauge will go in the space. Make sure you can't get a feeler gauge in there before taking anything apart. If you remain convinced there is no gap try a 0.002". If it remains tight then change all the shims three sizes thinner. That will get you pretty close on all the gaps. Once you have changed the shims then again rotate the engine counterclockwise two rotations and the check the clearances again. This time adjust as needed to get the maximum available clearance. Do not break a cam cap as they are not a replacement item. If you break a cam cap in most cases you will be replacing the head. Recent prices I've seen for used heads are $400-$700. In this case it shouldn't matter but usually it is helpful to include the year of the bike in the original post. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . ____________________________________________________________ [b]Buffett s Warning for YOU[/b] 4 in 5 Americans aren t taking his shocking advice. Click here now. fool.com

[Norm Keller]

When I run into that, and happens not infrequently, I pull the shim, install a thinner one and then take the measurement. When I call it zero, it's never quite right. Sometimes it's less than zero. IME, it isn't necessary to reinstall the cam caps because they have clearance. I just hold the cam down with the other hand which seems to give the same results.

[Ateam]

Jeff,     As I mature I learn to identify solid and sound advice.  Yes I was told I should do this on this most awesome group and yet I was just chicken.  I still feel that I did the right thing but I would not do it again.  However I posted my broken hub wheel on FB for free and a guy in Louisiana requested it for a tutorial wheel in his high school shop class.  Shipping via UPS was $24 dollars.  At least I got a bit of good karma on my side.   Fred, Norm and others like yourself are men who know their way around a bike.  I however am a guy who can be easily challenged but heck getting better every day.   Cheers and thanks. Ateam [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, July 21, 2015 6:41 PM [b]To:[/b] ateam@... [b]Cc:[/b] 0404toward@... ; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] fix your speedometer drive    

On Tue, 21 Jul 2015 19:33:10 -0600 "'Ateam' ateam@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes:   I choose to buy a used wheel and new hub assembly.  Please update later and advise how the Watt Man pin trick is working.  Used 2006 wheel shipped to me for $225.  I feel lucky but really considered this.  Just seems like it won t hold up over maybe 5000 miles?  Good luck.   Ateam   From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2015 1:06 PM To: KLR650 Subject: [DSN_KLR650] fix your speedometer drive   I just fixed my speedometer drive, with Watt-Man's help. If there is enough hub remaining to support the wheel bearing, the fix is to drill a small hole in the hub and insert a pin. The pin drives the speedometer drive plate. I fixed two hubs with Watt-Man's drill jig ($25 to rent, with $50 deposit). Contact him at watt-man@... I also bought a new speedometer drive assembly ($80 from ronayers.com). VERY nice to have a working speedometer/odometer again. And very nice to not have to replace a wheel _again_. regards,   Chris <><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><>   Ateam,   I've seen pictures of the Wattman fix and one of the last few times we talked we discussed this repair procedure.  I'll suggest the Wattman fix should be considered permanent and used with full confidence.   Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . .   ____________________________________________________________ [b]Want to place your ad here?[/b] Advertise on United Online www.adsonar.com

[Martin Earl]

Norm said- IME, it isn't necessary to reinstall the cam caps because they have clearance. I just hold the cam down with the other hand which seems to give the same results. Norm,That is all well in good unless you are c(H)am fisted, and then, all bets are off. cough. m1. who is hiding behind his in# torque wrench.ps. that is a really great suggestion. grin.

On Tue, Jul 21, 2015 at 2:29 PM, 'Norm Keller' normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: When I run into that, and happens not infrequently, I pull the shim, install a thinner one and then take the measurement. When I call it zero, it's never quite right. Sometimes it's less than zero. IME, it isn't necessary to reinstall the cam caps because they have clearance. I just hold the cam down with the other hand which seems to give the same results.