rear brake hose bracket modification

[J. Christopher Krok]

> 4b. Re: Brake pads > Posted by: "Jeff Saline" salinej1@... jeffsaline > Date: Mon Jul 24, 2006 8:42 pm (PDT) > Chris, > > I've been wondering about the issue with brake pad life as I frequently > see it addressed here with some folks. Your comment about get about 4K > from a set of pads amazes me. We must ride in very different conditions > and or use our brakes very differently.

I would imagine. And, the TuffStops grip better than the stockers IMHO, so by my convoluted logic I would expect them to wear sooner. Don't know about your specifics, but most of my riding is mountain desert offroad, so there is a lot of dust and sand abrasion, and a lot of descents where engine braking isn't enough because the rear wheel just slides. On the pavement, I do let the engine do much more of the braking, but on some of the mountain twisties around there, I still need the brakes. I don't recall how the pad wear splits between front and rear; my 4k number is based on the front, and I might get a little more than that, but I'd say 6k is the top end. I also have a KLX front end, which uses longer, narrower brake pads than the KLR, and that may be an issue. (This particular caliper is also producing some uneven wear.) It seemed to be the same for the KLR front end, if I remember right. I also don't mind sacrificing pads to save the rotor. I tried EBC sintered pads, and they galled on the rotor, which in turn messed up the pad. Cheers, Krokko -- J. Christopher Krok, Ph.D. Big Cee Engineering KLR650 Accessories and home of the FAQ

[JRC]

FYI, Ferodo makes a non-metallic pad for the KLR. I don't have enough miles on them to be able to tell how long they will last.

[Stuart Mumford]

Galfer greens front Galfer black rear Get them from Fred @ Arrowhead, why mess around? Brakes are one thing I won't muck about with. I want them to work right at all times. Thanks CA Stu

[Larry W Menefee]

> Don't worry about it. A little rubbing is normal with disk brakes as > they don't have a spring to retract the pads like a drum brake system > does. Unless you can hear it while you are riding, you don't have a > problem. If you hear a loud grinding while spinning the wheel, you > could check the brake pads to see if they are worn past their useable > life. >

Hi Ross, (speaking from memory) I believe it was Mark Van Horn or NorEast North America that suggested that the brake pads 'action' could be improved by increasing the brake- pad pin-hole size slightly, maybe +.003-4. He had suggested a drill bit size, etc. I have not done that to my brake pads, but will the next time I have them off the bike. I am 120 miles from my own data-flies, and won't have access to it for a couple of weeks. Maybe someone else can chime in to confirm or improve my memory. I hope that I am remembering that procedure correctly; feel free to throw bytes and bits if I am on the wrong trax. revmaaatin. I think you might be better advised to remove the caliber and clean the caliber mounting pins and rubber dust sleves...remove all grease then lightly sand them with fine sandpaper-now put a ligh coat of waterprof grease on the pins-this will let the caliber float instead of the brake pads which might cause a "chater"under braking...Just what has always worked for me. Larry W. Menefee 1467 Hempwood Drive Columbus, Ohio 43229 (614) 436-9944 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[dooden]

As a side note, I found that whenever I have removed the rear wheel, I must also remove the caliper and reinstall it, or I also get pad dragging. Dunno why, I always pin (clothespin inverted as a wedge) the pads apart. Maybe just from taking it off and reassembly (cleaning action?) Dooden A15 Green Ape --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Larry W Menefee wrote:

> > > > Don't worry about it. A little rubbing is normal with disk brakes as > > they don't have a spring to retract the pads like a drum brake system > > does. Unless you can hear it while you are riding, you don't have a > > problem. If you hear a loud grinding while spinning the wheel, you > > could check the brake pads to see if they are worn past their useable > > life. > > > > Hi Ross, > (speaking from memory) > I believe it was Mark Van Horn or NorEast North America that suggested > that the brake pads 'action' could be improved by increasing the brake- > pad pin-hole size slightly, maybe +.003-4. He had suggested a drill > bit size, etc. I have not done that to my brake pads, but will the next > time I have them off the bike. > > I am 120 miles from my own data-flies, and won't have access to it for > a couple of weeks. Maybe someone else can chime in to confirm or > improve my memory. I hope that I am remembering that procedure > correctly; feel free to throw bytes and bits if I am on the wrong trax. > > revmaaatin. > I think you might be better advised to remove the caliber and clean

the caliber mounting pins and rubber dust sleves...remove all grease then lightly sand them with fine sandpaper-now put a ligh coat of waterprof grease on the pins-this will let the caliber float instead of the brake pads which might cause a "chater"under braking...Just what has always worked for me.

> > Larry W. Menefee > 1467 Hempwood Drive > Columbus, Ohio 43229 > (614) 436-9944 > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[gmay131313]

Hi all, the Galfer Green front pads seem to be the choice of most everytime I've seen brakes mentioned here. The dealers in my area sell discs and ss lines by Galfer but don't list any of their pads. Other then OEM the best choices seem to be EBC and SBS, the EBC's for a KLR look to be just OEM replacements but SBS offers a ceramic HF compound that looks to be a better choice, longer life, better performance, consumable stuff like brake pads I'd sooner by local. I've used creamics pads on my 4x4 and car for the last few years and have been more then pleased with them. Question is any comments from anyone that has been using them, I'll be putting on a SS front line at same time but probably not a larger disc at least till I see how the first mods work. I drive mostly secondary roads, a lot of gravel roads with some trails thrown in. Thanks for any feed back and have a great day to all.....Greg

[RM]

The organic pads all seem to wear out pretty fast. The OEM pads are sintered and I think that replacements should be as well. The EBC 'R' suffix pads fit the bill. DP finally has an HH-rated sintered pad for the KLR but it costs and arm and a leg. RM On Sat, 06 Jan 2007 15:15:32 -0000, "gmay131313" said:

> Hi all, the Galfer Green front pads seem to be the choice of most > everytime I've seen brakes mentioned here. The dealers in my area > sell discs and ss lines by Galfer but don't list any of their pads. > Other then OEM the best choices seem to be EBC and SBS, the EBC's for > a KLR look to be just OEM replacements but SBS offers a ceramic HF > compound that looks to be a better choice, longer life, better > performance, consumable stuff like brake pads I'd sooner by local. > I've used creamics pads on my 4x4 and car for the last few years and > have been more then pleased with them. Question is any comments from > anyone that has been using them, I'll be putting on a SS front line > at same time but probably not a larger disc at least till I see how > the first mods work. I drive mostly secondary roads, a lot of gravel > roads with some trails thrown in. Thanks for any feed back and have a > great day to all.....Greg

[CB]

I've been using DP's HH pads for a couple of years. They're a big improvement over stock with no negative side effects.

On Jan 6, 2007, at 8:52 PM, RM wrote: > The organic pads all seem to wear out pretty fast. The OEM pads are > sintered and I think that replacements should be as well. The EBC 'R' > suffix pads fit the bill. DP finally has an HH-rated sintered pad for > the KLR but it costs and arm and a leg. > > RM > > . > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Blake Sobiloff]

On Jan 6, 2007, at 9:18 PM, CB wrote:

> I've been using DP's HH pads for a couple of years. They're a big > improvement over stock with no negative side effects.

Are you using them with the stock rotor? When I had that setup they grooved my rotor pretty quickly, but aside from the appearance they were definitely better than stock. I'm just curious if my experience was typical or not. -- Blake Sobiloff http://sobiloff.typepad.com/blakeblog/> http://sobiloff.typepad.com/klr_adventure/> San Jose, CA (USA) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[RM]

On Sat, 6 Jan 2007 21:54:15 -0800, "Blake Sobiloff" said:

> > I've been using DP's HH pads for a couple of years. They're a big > > improvement over stock with no negative side effects.

My EBC 'R' pads grooved the rotor as well. I ignore it. RM