baja ride report
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frozen rear axle -how to remove?
My stepson bought a '94 "Barbie" KLR last weekend, and we have doing maintenance and repairs to make it roadworthy. We have run into a problem attempting to remove the rear axle. The castle nut comes off but the axle will not move. Soaked it several times with PB Blaster. It won't budge. and won't rotate when I attempt to turn the head on the opposite end. I've used an air impact gun with with a 6 point impact socket but it doesn't budge.I thought if I could get it to turn it would somehow loosen up, but I'm having no success. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
One thing is certain. Once we do get it apart, I'm gonna us anti-sieze paste when it's reassembled
Thanks, John Murray
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frozen rear axle -how to remove?
The first thing that came to mind is a big whack on the exposed thread side with a block of some hard wood between the hammer and the axle? Just thinking out loud.
On Sun, Mar 15, 2015 at 9:04 AM, john4cycle@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u] My stepson bought a '94 "Barbie" KLR last weekend, and we have doing maintenance and repairs to make it roadworthy. We have run into a problem attempting to remove the rear axle. The castle nut comes off but the axle will not move. Soaked it several times with PB Blaster. It won't budge. and won't rotate when I attempt to turn the head on the opposite end. I've used an air impact gun with with a 6 point impact socket but it doesn't budge.I thought if I could get it to turn it would somehow loosen up, but I'm having no success. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated One thing is certain. Once we do get it apart, I'm gonna us anti-sieze paste when it's reassembled Thanks, John Murray
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- Posts: 231
- Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2003 10:00 pm
frozen rear axle -how to remove?
What is frozen is the axle to the 'sleeve' within the hub, that touches both bearing when the axle to torqued down.
Along the line of Dons thought:.I would, repeat the process of BP blaster again, Though I doubt that it will reach where it needs to go.Use a impact gun AND hit the bolt at the same time.RepeatI suspect you will also ruin the bearings while you are doing this...not that it matters, just be prepared to replace them.
martinearl.
On Sun, Mar 15, 2015 at 8:49 AM, Don Dodge ddodge42@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: The first thing that came to mind is a big whack on the exposed thread side with a block of some hard wood between the hammer and the axle? Just thinking out loud. On Sun, Mar 15, 2015 at 9:04 AM, john4cycle@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u] My stepson bought a '94 "Barbie" KLR last weekend, and we have doing maintenance and repairs to make it roadworthy. We have run into a problem attempting to remove the rear axle. The castle nut comes off but the axle will not move. Soaked it several times with PB Blaster. It won't budge. and won't rotate when I attempt to turn the head on the opposite end. I've used an air impact gun with with a 6 point impact socket but it doesn't budge.I thought if I could get it to turn it would somehow loosen up, but I'm having no success. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated One thing is certain. Once we do get it apart, I'm gonna us anti-sieze paste when it's reassembled Thanks, John Murray
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- Joined: Fri Jan 15, 2010 11:18 am
frozen rear axle -how to remove?
Do NOT use Anti seize, You need Lube.
Marine grade Grease, Is designed to hold, up even against Salt Water.
On Sunday, March 15, 2015 2:08 PM, "Martin Earl mjearl4@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
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li:last-child { border-right:none !important;} #ygrps-yiv-144291300What is frozen is the axle to the 'sleeve' within the hub, that touches both bearing when the axle to torqued down. Along the line of Dons thought:.I would, repeat the process of BP blaster again, Though I doubt that it will reach where it needs to go.Use a impact gun AND hit the bolt at the same time.RepeatI suspect you will also ruin the bearings while you are doing this...not that it matters, just be prepared to replace them. martinearl. On Sun, Mar 15, 2015 at 8:49 AM, Don Dodge ddodge42@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: The first thing that came to mind is a big whack on the exposed thread side with a block of some hard wood between the hammer and the axle? Just thinking out loud. On Sun, Mar 15, 2015 at 9:04 AM, john4cycle@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u] My stepson bought a '94 "Barbie" KLR last weekend, and we have doing maintenance and repairs to make it roadworthy. We have run into a problem attempting to remove the rear axle. The castle nut comes off but the axle will not move. Soaked it several times with PB Blaster. It won't budge. and won't rotate when I attempt to turn the head on the opposite end. I've used an air impact gun with with a 6 point impact socket but it doesn't budge.I thought if I could get it to turn it would somehow loosen up, but I'm having no success. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated One thing is certain. Once we do get it apart, I'm gonna us anti-sieze paste when it's reassembled Thanks, John Murray
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frozen rear axle -how to remove?
Is it possible to use a puller to press it out?
Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 3/15/2015 11:08 AM, Martin Earl mjearl4@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:
What is frozen is the axle to the 'sleeve' within the hub, that touches both bearing when the axle to torqued down. Along the line of Dons thought:. I would, repeat the process of BP blaster again, Though I doubt that it will reach where it needs to go. Use a impact gun AND hit the bolt at the same time. Repeat I suspect you will also ruin the bearings while you are doing this...not that it matters, just be prepared to replace them. martinearl. On Sun, Mar 15, 2015 at 8:49 AM, Don Dodge ddodge42@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: The first thing that came to mind is a big whack on the exposed thread side with a block of some hard wood between the hammer and the axle? Just thinking out loud. On Sun, Mar 15, 2015 at 9:04 AM, john4cycle@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: My stepson bought a '94 "Barbie" KLR last weekend, and we have doing maintenance and repairs to make it roadworthy. We have run into a problem attempting to remove the rear axle. The castle nut comes off but the axle will not move. Soaked it several times with PB Blaster. It won't budge. and won't rotate when I attempt to turn the head on the opposite end. I've used an air impact gun with with a 6 point impact socket but it doesn't budge.I thought if I could get it to turn it would somehow loosen up, but I'm having no success. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated One thing is certain. Once we do get it apart, I'm gonna us anti-sieze paste when it's reassembled Thanks, John Murray
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frozen rear axle -how to remove?
I would put on the Nut all but a couple threads tightened down to where there is just a GAP between the nut and the swingarm... Tap it with a mallet on the end of the nut, every time the GAP would go away I would loosen the nut and do it again... IT WILL COME OUT.
Michael
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frozen rear axle -how to remove?
#ygrps-yiv-1863062594 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1863062594cite {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;} #ygrps-yiv-1863062594 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1863062594cite2 {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;margin-top:3px;padding-top:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-1863062594 .ygrps-yiv-1863062594plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1863062594 .ygrps-yiv-1863062594plain tt {font-family:monospace;font-size:100%;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-1863062594 a img {border:0px;}#ygrps-yiv-1863062594 {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} #ygrps-yiv-1863062594 .ygrps-yiv-1863062594plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1863062594 .ygrps-yiv-1863062594plain tt {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} I see seized or nearly so on bikes and ATV frequently. If the axle is seized then plan on a bigger time with the rear suspension. As was said earlier, use a good waterproof chassis or wheel bearing grease on the axles and through bolts rather than never seize. If the axle is seized and won't turn, it's most likely seized to the wheel spacer on the opposite side. In really severe cases, this is pure joy because you can have an axle which is seized to both wheel spacers + both bearings and even the bearing spacer. In really bad cases a cut off wheel or saws-all will be required to cut through the spacers and axle on both sides of the wheel in order to remove from the bike. Be carefull about the force applied in a press as it's possible to break the wheel. My preference is to place a weight against the other side (block of thin hardwood between swing arm and weight) to increase inertia and use a large punch and 12 pound hammer to start the axle moving. I agree that penetrating oils aren't going to do much until it starts moving and then I prefer ATF, good motor oil or (best) hypoid gear oil. If it doesn't move with the hammer, I have a very heavy duty long stroke Mac Tools air hammer which will usually persuade things. Forget using the little girl's air hammers which most people have for cutting sheet metal.
Some heat on the axle spacers can help because the aluminum expands more than steel but this isn't easy to do without burning the paint off the swing arm. FWIW, I've sometimes found that using an air hammer chisel to split the axle spacer(s) axially can help because that frees the axle of the spacers and allows oil to contact the wheel bearings and axle.

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frozen rear axle -how to remove?
Hi Norm,As always, there is a good takeaway from anything that Norm suggest. grin.
You and I disagree (I think) on where the axle might be seized...and I would defer to your experience. smile.I keep my 'junk' well lubed and the tires changed often enough that this is not a problem...however, a barn find will exacerbate seizures...I suppose.
However, after reading your missive 3x, I see that if the axle won't turn, it is (most likely) the 'A' and 'B' parts.extrapolation from your post would suggest, if the axle will turn, it is in the 92143. My own suggestion only considered the 92143-1060 inner collar.
I just went out to the garage to eyeball the rear wheel and the possible offending collars; I have included a link to the microfiche, pulled the possible offending parts in the matrix below, full credits to Ron Ayers.
http://www.ronayersmotorcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=375633&category=Motorcycles&make=KAWASAKI&year=2001&fveh=8691
92143B COLLAR,REAR AXLE,L=17
#92143-1062 92143 COLLAR,REAR BRAKE DRU #92143-1060 92143A COLLAR,REAR #92143-1061
If brute force (the 12# hammer) and awkwardness is insufficient, it appears a sawzall to cut off the axle 2x, a new axle, bearings and 'collars' are in the OP's future. Your guidance/suggestion on where to cut might be beneficial to all.
All this would suggest, some barn finds are better than others. shrug. Over at ADV, a barn find resurrection of a R100RT BMW started at $2000 for the 'find', added $3000 to correct all the things of a 'almost running' bike required, amounted to a balance-sheet re-sale value of $3000.And this was a very capable mechanic who did everything except the head work.
and so it goes.
m.
On Mon, Mar 16, 2015 at 12:00 PM, 'Norm Keller' normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: I see seized or nearly so on bikes and ATV frequently. If the axle is seized then plan on a bigger time with the rear suspension. As was said earlier, use a good waterproof chassis or wheel bearing grease on the axles and through bolts rather than never seize. If the axle is seized and won't turn, it's most likely seized to the wheel spacer on the opposite side. In really severe cases, this is pure joy because you can have an axle which is seized to both wheel spacers + both bearings and even the bearing spacer. In really bad cases a cut off wheel or saws-all will be required to cut through the spacers and axle on both sides of the wheel in order to remove from the bike. Be carefull about the force applied in a press as it's possible to break the wheel. My preference is to place a weight against the other side (block of thin hardwood between swing arm and weight) to increase inertia and use a large punch and 12 pound hammer to start the axle moving. I agree that penetrating oils aren't going to do much until it starts moving and then I prefer ATF, good motor oil or (best) hypoid gear oil. If it doesn't move with the hammer, I have a very heavy duty long stroke Mac Tools air hammer which will usually persuade things. Forget using the little girl's air hammers which most people have for cutting sheet metal.Some heat on the axle spacers can help because the aluminum expands more than steel but this isn't easy to do without burning the paint off the swing arm. FWIW, I've sometimes found that using an air hammer chisel to split the axle spacer(s) axially can help because that frees the axle of the spacers and allows oil to contact the wheel bearings and axle.
-
- Posts: 542
- Joined: Tue May 20, 2003 4:21 am
frozen rear axle -how to remove?
And as always the herd knows more than any one of us, even Norm! My pitiful contribution?
I have the axle and most likely the spacers in my KLR spares collection if you need them Norm. You (or your client) could either buy them for a reasonable price or take them free and resupply me when the parts that you would order arrive.
I could probably be persuaded to deliver as long as I could ride there (e.g snow-free roads).
From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Monday, March 16, 2015 16:23
To: DSN KLR650; Norm Keller
Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Frozen rear axle -How to remove?
Hi Norm,
As always, there is a good takeaway from anything that Norm suggest. grin.
You and I disagree (I think) on where the axle might be seized...and I would defer to your experience. smile.
I keep my 'junk' well lubed and the tires changed often enough that this is not a problem...however, a barn find will exacerbate seizures...I suppose.
However, after reading your missive 3x, I see that if the axle won't turn, it is (most likely) the 'A' and 'B' parts.
extrapolation from your post would suggest, if the axle will turn, it is in the 92143.
My own suggestion only considered the 92143-1060 inner collar.
I just went out to the garage to eyeball the rear wheel and the possible offending collars; I have included a link to the microfiche,
pulled the possible offending parts in the matrix below, full credits to Ron Ayers.
http://www.ronayersmotorcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=375633 http://www.ronayersmotorcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=375633&category=Motorcycles&make=KAWASAKI&year=2001&fveh=8691> &category=Motorcycles&make=KAWASAKI&year=2001&fveh=8691
92143B
COLLAR,REAR AXLE,L=17
#92143-1062
92143
COLLAR,REAR BRAKE DRU #92143-1060
92143A
COLLAR,REAR
#92143-1061
If brute force (the 12# hammer) and awkwardness is insufficient, it appears a sawzall to cut off the axle 2x, a new axle, bearings and 'collars' are in the OP's future. Your guidance/suggestion on where to cut might be beneficial to all.
All this would suggest, some barn finds are better than others. shrug.
Over at ADV, a barn find resurrection of a R100RT BMW started at $2000 for the 'find', added $3000 to correct all the things of a 'almost running' bike required, amounted to a balance-sheet re-sale value of $3000.
And this was a very capable mechanic who did everything except the head work.
and so it goes.
m.
On Mon, Mar 16, 2015 at 12:00 PM, 'Norm Keller' normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > wrote: I see seized or nearly so on bikes and ATV frequently. If the axle is seized then plan on a bigger time with the rear suspension. As was said earlier, use a good waterproof chassis or wheel bearing grease on the axles and through bolts rather than never seize. If the axle is seized and won't turn, it's most likely seized to the wheel spacer on the opposite side. In really severe cases, this is pure joy because you can have an axle which is seized to both wheel spacers + both bearings and even the bearing spacer. In really bad cases a cut off wheel or saws-all will be required to cut through the spacers and axle on both sides of the wheel in order to remove from the bike. Be carefull about the force applied in a press as it's possible to break the wheel. My preference is to place a weight against the other side (block of thin hardwood between swing arm and weight) to increase inertia and use a large punch and 12 pound hammer to start the axle moving. I agree that penetrating oils aren't going to do much until it starts moving and then I prefer ATF, good motor oil or (best) hypoid gear oil. If it doesn't move with the hammer, I have a very heavy duty long stroke Mac Tools air hammer which will usually persuade things. Forget using the little girl's air hammers which most people have for cutting sheet metal.Some heat on the axle spacers can help because the aluminum expands more than steel but this isn't easy to do without burning the paint off the swing arm. FWIW, I've sometimes found that using an air hammer chisel to split the axle spacer(s) axially can help because that frees the axle of the spacers and allows oil to contact the wheel bearings and axle. ---------- ---------- ---------- [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
-
- Posts: 712
- Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 7:48 am
frozen rear axle -how to remove?
I think there's great value in knocking these things around and very
much appreciate Martin's views. We have a long history of regard and
respect (at least on my part) and seem both to enjoy trying to refine
assessments. I like discovering that I am wrong or even that I have
simply misspoken. After all one must find some justification for 35+
years of marriage.
The OP is not a client of mine although I'd be happy to help if it came
by.
------ Original Message ------
From: "John Biccum"
To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com; "Martin Earl" ; "Norm
Keller"
Sent: 2015-03-16 4:58:16 PM
Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Frozen rear axle -How to remove?

---------- ---------- ---------- [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]>And as always the herd knows more than any one of us, even Norm! My >pitiful contribution? > > > >I have the axle and most likely the spacers in my KLR spares collection >if you need them Norm. You (or your client) could either buy them for >a reasonable price or take them free and resupply me when the parts >that you would order arrive. > > > >I could probably be persuaded to deliver as long as I could ride there >(e.g snow-free roads). > > > >From:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] >Sent: Monday, March 16, 2015 16:23 >To: DSN KLR650; Norm Keller >Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Frozen rear axle -How to remove? > > > > > >Hi Norm, > >As always, there is a good takeaway from anything that Norm suggest. >grin. > > > >You and I disagree (I think) on where the axle might be seized...and I >would defer to your experience. smile. > >I keep my 'junk' well lubed and the tires changed often enough that >this is not a problem...however, a barn find will exacerbate >seizures...I suppose. > > > >However, after reading your missive 3x, I see that if the axle won't >turn, it is (most likely) the 'A' and 'B' parts. > >extrapolation from your post would suggest, if the axle will turn, it >is in the 92143. > >My own suggestion only considered the 92143-1060 inner collar. > > > >I just went out to the garage to eyeball the rear wheel and the >possible offending collars; I have included a link to the microfiche, > >pulled the possible offending parts in the matrix below, full credits >to Ron Ayers. > > > >http://www.ronayersmotorcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=375633&category=Motorcycles&make=KAWASAKI&year=2001&fveh=8691 > > > >92143B > > > >COLLAR,REAR AXLE,L=17 >#92143-1062 > >92143 > >COLLAR,REAR BRAKE DRU #92143-1060 > >92143A > >COLLAR,REAR > >#92143-1061 > > > >If brute force (the 12# hammer) and awkwardness is insufficient, it >appears a sawzall to cut off the axle 2x, a new axle, bearings and >'collars' are in the OP's future. Your guidance/suggestion on where to >cut might be beneficial to all. > > > >All this would suggest, some barn finds are better than others. shrug. > >Over at ADV, a barn find resurrection of a R100RT BMW started at $2000 >for the 'find', added $3000 to correct all the things of a 'almost >running' bike required, amounted to a balance-sheet re-sale value of >$3000. > >And this was a very capable mechanic who did everything except the head >work. > > > >and so it goes. > > > >m. > > > > > > > > >On Mon, Mar 16, 2015 at 12:00 PM, 'Norm Keller' normkel32@... >[DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: > >> >> >>I see seized or nearly so on bikes and ATV frequently. If the axle is >>seized then plan on a bigger time with the rear suspension. As was >>said earlier, use a good waterproof chassis or wheel bearing grease on >>the axles and through bolts rather than never seize. >> >> >> >>If the axle is seized and won't turn, it's most likely seized to the >>wheel spacer on the opposite side. In really severe cases, this is >>pure joy because you can have an axle which is seized to both wheel >>spacers + both bearings and even the bearing spacer. In really bad >>cases a cut off wheel or saws-all will be required to cut through the >>spacers and axle on both sides of the wheel in order to remove from >>the bike. Be carefull about the force applied in a press as it's >>possible to break the wheel. >> >> >> >>My preference is to place a weight against the other side (block of >>thin hardwood between swing arm and weight) to increase inertia and >>use a large punch and 12 pound hammer to start the axle moving. I >>agree that penetrating oils aren't going to do much until it starts >>moving and then I prefer ATF, good motor oil or (best) hypoid gear >>oil. If it doesn't move with the hammer, I have a very heavy duty long >>stroke Mac Tools air hammer which will usually persuade things. Forget >>using the little girl's air hammers which most people have for cutting >>sheet metal.>> >> >> >>Some heat on the axle spacers can help because the aluminum expands >>more than steel but this isn't easy to do without burning the paint >>off the swing arm. FWIW, I've sometimes found that using an air hammer >>chisel to split the axle spacer(s) axially can help because that frees >>the axle of the spacers and allows oil to contact the wheel bearings >>and axle. >> >> >> > > > >
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