jeff s. & carb's?
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engine died while going 70
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engine died while going 70
Thanks for the great replies guys, James was certainly right that this is a fantastic group. When I was on the phone with him I did try running it in Reserve, and I'm actually not 100% sure what happened, whether the engine died in Reserve or not. The main tank definitely had pretty low fuel though, probably around a gallon left in it. I definitely opened the cap and looked inside and closed it again, after which the engine died again. I wish I could try these things out right now but they will have to wait until I get back to the west coast in February. Might it be worth buying one of those vacuum hoses in advance just in case? Is it one of these parts: http://i61.tinypic.com/167k101.png [img]https://ec.yimg.com/ec?url=http%3A%2F%2Fi61.tinypic.com%2F167k101.png&t=1571809984&sig=sh5DraEnCaVRH0Y1fdAuFA--~E[/img] http://i61.tinypic.com/167k101.png View on i61.tinypic.com Preview by Yahoo ? Also I guess it's high time I get a manual, I don't have one, which would you recommend? Thanks again for the wealth of knowledge guys.
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engine died while going 70

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engine died while going 70

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engine died while going 70

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engine died while going 70
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engine died while going 70
On Tue, Dec 2, 2014 at 10:32 AM, mark ward nomad59@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: YO Rev. I think you missed step 1. in the simple freebies area. When the bike starts having the issue/s, Open the gas cap, Then see if the issues "disappears", THEN returns again later. Cap Vent issue. (Can even Do it, in 10+- seconds, on the side of a freeway.) On Tuesday, December 2, 2014 11:47 AM, "Martin Earl mjearl4@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Thomas,Most of the replies here suggest that it is a fuel delivery problem.I am in heated agreement.All suggestions have merit. which is a good thing.Unfortunately, you may have to look at all of them, and oddly enough, there may be more than one problem.It works out that way sometimes. I have also experienced almost identical symptoms; this is what I check first.The easy stuff: = before removing the fuel tank1. Does the bike have fuel?One of my KLR's stutters before it dies on MAIN, the other just dies.Oddly enough, enough fuel can slosh around that it will restart sometimes. shrug. 2. Should the bike be in reserve for the amount of fuel you have left?=will the bike run properly on RESERVE Forgive me if you have checked these things. One must ask. grin. 3. At the petcock, is the vacuum hose (small one) snuggly attached (without cracks).Pull the hose off and examine it (as suggested by Jeff and others) Then, I would locate the carb bowl drain on the right side, 4mm hex and 4. drain the bowl.AS you loosen this bolt, initially, the fuel will run out he back of the carb bowl on to the engine deck.If you place a brown paper towel where the fuel comes out, WATER will appear as bubbles before absorbed into the paper towel.If there is water, that is a problem. (I get THAT 2-3 times a summer, and then I am on my way again.) Completely remove the drain bolt, put the bike petcock on MAIN and crank the bike.No fuel?Put it on RESERVETry again.Fuel should gush out the drain. NOTE: do not stare at the hole, it will spit gas in your eye! Replace the fuel bowl drain and test ride the bike again. 5. If the bike will run, but not properly, immediately after you turn off the bike, pull the vacuum line and see if it is wet on the inside.If it is wet, then fuel is leaking past the diaphragm and that is your culprit. If that does not work, then proceed to checking the petcock etc. with the tank still on the bike. 6. You can check the petcock's operation by manually filling the carb bowl, through the fuel line, using a small funnel and about 3/4 cup of gas;then,placing a short length of fuel hose on the output side of the petcock, start the bike and let it idle.Fuel should start to flow as soon as the start to crank the bike. Catch the fuel in a graduated container or clean qt jar so you can measure the fuel volume in one minuteThere should be a pencil size stream of fuel coming out of the petcock, immediately.I think Jeff S and I measured a petcock giving 1 gal/3 min; it flows that fast. Just as likely as any other thing--7. I once sucked a bug through the carb vent and it parked on the main jet.I went for 70mph, to 30 mph max because the main jet was partially covered. You can access the main jet by (YOU MUST DO THIS) REMOVING THE CHOKE ASSEMBLY AT THE HANDLE BAR,loosen the two carb boots/screw,I remove the throttle cables from the carb,remove the fuel line and vacuum line from the petcockAnd gently twist the carb counter clockwise to access the fuel bowl screws. YOU MUST give the choke/enricher cable plenty of slack as you rotate the carb or it will BREAK THE ENRICHER.Yes, I am raising my voice. wink. the main jet is in the middle of the carb, (4mm wrench) unscrew that and have look/clean as necessary.Gently stroke the float and look to see the float needle moves in the needle-seat. 8. Now is a good time to replace those OEM 'oatmeal' float bowl screws with socket head screw, available at ACE or FASTENAL.put it all back together. 9.Should you decide to do petcock maintenance,It is best done with LESS fuel in the tank and the tank removed from the bike.You can syphon most of the gas into a gas can, remove the tank,and stand it on its nose while you remove the petcock. consulting your Clymers manual will be helpful as well. 10. Pay attention to the rubber pucks that isolate the tank from the frame.Gluing them on with 3M weather striping material is a good idea at this time as well. Let us know how it goes. revmaaatin. On Mon, Dec 1, 2014 at 3:28 PM, tmollrocek@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Hey everyone, it's my first post so thought I'd introduce myself. Im living up in Humboldt County, northern California, and I have an 06 KLR650 which I bought used a few months ago. Ive been working on it with another member of this group who lives a few houses down. He pointed me to the group which Im grateful for because I definitely need some sound advice. A week and a half ago I rode the bike 250 miles south to San Francisco and 20 miles before my destination the throttle suddenly stopped responding. At this point I was going about 70 on the freeway. The revs just went down over about 15 seconds until the engine died completely. I got off onto the shoulder and tried starting up again, which worked with a bit of choke. Accelerating worked as well, but about 30 seconds later the same thing happened and I had to pull over again. The bike wouldn't start straight up again but after a short wait it did. I took it in 3rd gear to the next exit and a gas station, which was at most half a mile. I turned it off and made some phone calls trying to get advice. I then took it for a test ride of another half mile in 3rd gear, and it didn't die. So I tried heading on to my destination on slower roads, but after no more than 30 seconds the throttle stopped responding and the engine died, this time in 3rd gear going about 35 mph. From my limited understanding this is significant because it suggests the problem might not be related to a blocked jet in the carb which fires only at high speeds? Now the bike is at my friends house for the winter. Im visiting family for the holidays and hope to be able to at least partially diagnose the problem remotely with the help of this group. Somebody else I talked to suggested a damaged head gasket. Also, I accidentally put in about 200mls of 10w fork oil before my trip, although the rest of the oil was 10w-40 synthetic. I thought I saw a little clear bubble in the sight glass. Not sure if this could have caused some damage. Ill try to add any other relevant information as I can think of it. Thanks so much in advance for any advice or thoughts. -Thomas
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engine died while going 70
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engine died while going 70



On Tue, 02 Dec 2014 20:24:01 +0000 "'Norm Keller' normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes: Regarding the block off plate, you can make one from a piece of gasket material rather than a metal plate, at least to try. FWIW, I prefer the vacuum valve as it reduces the chance of flooding the engine, or worse the garage in the event of a leaking petcock and needle seat. While it may seem improbable that both will fault at the same time, when one reflects it becomes clear that one only knows that the petcock is not shutting off by observing dribbling when the fuel hose is off or because the engine floods when shut off. Just some thoughts. Since Fred offers the kits..... I'm not going to tell those who replace with a manual petcock that they are wrong. They are wrong, I'm just not going to tell them.Running for cover! <><><><><> <><><><><> Norm, That is spot on advice about only needing a gasket to convert to a manual petcock. I've talked with a few guys that have done that with excellent results. Last riding season I suggested that to a guy that was touring and in Canada heading to California. He was having lots of issues with fuel delivery. Once he got it pinned down to the petcock I suggested he try a tire patch to get him back to the states where he could fix it correctly. The tire patch lasted about two weeks and then dissolved from the fuel/additives contact. But it got him where he needed to be. One issue with using just a gasket is the material must not swell from contact with fuel/additives. Even the Buna-N nitrile that has been used with the blockoff plate setups since BigCee used to have them available now has issue in some areas. When the full gasket swells it can cover the fuel passage and stop fuel flow. That issue is what lead to the "improved" gasket I now use which has a 1/2" hole punched in it. Nothing to swell so it can't block the fuel passage. But it also can't be used with the stock petcock back plate as when that is used the gasket must block the vacuum connection. Seems like some owners like to have the blockoff plate instead of just using a gasket. I think it has something to do with the farkle illness. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . . .. ____________________________________________________________ [b]Odd Trick Fights Diabetes[/b] "Unique" Proven Method To Control Blood Sugar In 3 Weeks. Watch Video. DiabetesProtocol.com
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engine died while going 70
revmaaatin - What an outstanding troubleshooting list! Will save it for future reference.
Thanks,
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