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david zawadzki
Posts: 105
Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2011 10:46 pm

happy thanksgiving!

Post by david zawadzki » Thu Nov 27, 2014 7:14 am

Hello folks, Just wanted to thank everyone on this group for their support and their generosity. Especially the usual suspects....Jeff, Mark, Norm, Ron... Ps- at what rpm does the battery start charging? I'm thinking of keeping mine in the bike over the winter. I will start the bike but not ride a whole bunch. Maybe a mile here and there to my music studio. How long do I need to ride and at what rpm for it to recharge? Thanks! -David Z mobile: 646.267.1109 www.thelegendofzarko.com -David Z mobile: 646.267.1109 www.thelegendofzarko.com

Jeff Saline
Posts: 2246
Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 6:02 pm

happy thanksgiving!

Post by Jeff Saline » Thu Nov 27, 2014 7:54 am

On Thu, 27 Nov 2014 08:09:05 -0500 "David Zawadzki fordavidz@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes:
> Hello folks, > > Ps- at what rpm does the battery start charging? I'm thinking of > keeping mine in the bike over the winter. I will start the bike but > not ride a whole bunch. Maybe a mile here and there to my music > studio. > > How long do I need to ride and at what rpm for it to recharge? > > Thanks! > > -David Z
<><><><><><> <><><><><><> David, I'll suggest it might take one minute of engine running for every second of starter motor cranking to replenish the battery. If the battery has been sitting for a bit without use it will also take a bit to address that issue as a battery will lose a bit of charge just sitting. Some have more loss than others. Just ride the bike like normal with engine rpms at 3,500 or more most of the time. My suggestion if you aren't going to ride the bike long enough to run at operating temperature for at least 20 minutes is don't start the bike at all. One mile will not be enough to charge the battery or heat the engine, even if you have a T-Bob installed. Having said that... for three summers I rode my KLR to where I was working only 2 3/4 miles away. At night I would ride it home. About one night every two weeks or so I would put a battery tender on to bring the battery to full charge. A few times I would take the long way to work or home just to get the engine good and hot. That was in the summer so I wasn't concerned with condensation inside the engine like I would be in cooler/cold temperatures. It will probably do better for the bike and battery if you put a trickle charger on the battery once a month for a day or two. And at the same time, if you aren't going to ride for a while drain the carb of fuel and then crank the engine with the fuel shut off to clear the jets and passages of fuel. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . . ____________________________________________________________ What's your flood risk? Find flood maps, interactive tools, FAQs, and agents in your area. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/54772ce14d5b42ce17dd7st02vuc

david zawadzki
Posts: 105
Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2011 10:46 pm

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Post by david zawadzki » Thu Nov 27, 2014 10:08 pm

Green light in neutral.  No light in gear. Perfection.   -David Zmobile: 646.267.1109www.thelegendofzarko.com
On Nov 24, 2014, at 7:19 PM, Jeff Saline wrote:
On Mon, 24 Nov 2014 18:12:05 -0500 David Zawadzki writes: Connected the blue/red to green and the baby started right up.  Back in business!!! Thank you. -David Z <><><><><><> <><><><><><>   David,   Do you now have a neutral light when the bike is in gear?   If you do change the wires so it is the blue/red connected to the black/yellow and leave the green disconnected.   Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . .   ____________________________________________________________ Fast, Secure, NetZero 4G Mobile Broadband. Try it.

Norm Keller
Posts: 712
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 7:48 am

happy thanksgiving!

Post by Norm Keller » Fri Nov 28, 2014 11:50 am

#ygrps-yiv-539001217 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-539001217cite {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;} #ygrps-yiv-539001217 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-539001217cite2 {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;margin-top:3px;padding-top:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-539001217 .ygrps-yiv-539001217plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-539001217 .ygrps-yiv-539001217plain tt {font-family:monospace;font-size:100%;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-539001217 a img {border:0px;}#ygrps-yiv-539001217 {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} #ygrps-yiv-539001217 .ygrps-yiv-539001217plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-539001217 .ygrps-yiv-539001217plain tt {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} Battery charging = what Jeff said.   FWIW, one can buy a great charger for a few dollars if you are technical and can do a bit of wiring. I'm in the process of adapting one of these for a friend's shop:   http://www.ebay.com/itm/231363688904?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT   I attach an LED volt meter, shunt ammeter, power plug and socket (recycled from an old computer), and jumper clip leads such as AWG12 wire from RC toy stores. The circuit board potentiometer for voltage adjustment is replaced by a larger remote one making the voltage adjustment easy.   I set mine down to 13.2 volts for long term or run it up to 14.6 or so to leave grip heaters of lights on for hours. That's why my friend wants one. There are tiny ones for a few dollars if desired.         The battery maintainers are a great item, although I do like to disconnect the battery at a minimum and better to remove it from the bike. If the battery fails: shorts internally, goes dead and freezes, etc. leakage can cause a lot of damage.   Back in the old, old days, some of the Wing people offered some great solutions: -Pre smart charger: one guy used a 2 amp trickle charger which was connected to the light on his garage door opener. Could be connected to any intermittently used light. The idea was that the charger operated for about  5 minutes 2X per day. Brilliant!   -Another which we usually don't consider is that a fully charged battery will not freeze damage. A very cold battery will not charge but will also not self discharge. People will sometimes remove the battery, charge, wrap in plastic and store in the freezer until spring, or with snow equipment until fall.

Stu
Posts: 399
Joined: Wed Dec 20, 2000 5:03 pm

happy thanksgiving!

Post by Stu » Fri Nov 28, 2014 8:16 pm

Giving Thanks back to a group - kindred spirits and a wealth of information and support when facing challenges with Sheila (2002 KLR 650). And especially Thanks to our host - Fred - for helping get my brakes upgrade (moved up to the Arrowhead 320 mm diameter from EBC). It still is not logical to me why the same size pad and the same surface contact stops better on a bigger diameter rotor - but it does.... Hope everyone enjoyed their Thanksgiving. -Stu & Shellon- Dog Sheila - 2002 KLR650 7500 miles SS Brake lines Arrowhead EBC 320mm Front Rotor w/Green Galfer pads Frame bolts upgrade (drill through) Various Protection Covers/Plates (Shark, Rear Brake MC, etc) DooHickey ThermoBob HO Stator Mosfet RR Eastern Beaver distribution panel Steel FootPegs HT Skidplate HT PD Nerf Bars Rear OEM Pannier racks Unifilter 705's Lowering Links (Hey, I ain't Wilt the Stilt and most of the unpaved roads I ride don't use boulders for speed-bumps...) Rigid D2's and the 7" horizontal light bar Denali horn Corbin Seat CeeBee Windshield (from PO) Upgraded Rear Spring to Heavier Rate Upgrade Straight Rate Front Springs with 10 wt oil and approx OEM equivalent spacer (for now) WOW Strobing LED Taillight JW Archer Dash panel w/2 outlets and 4 switches heated glove liners for Winter riding LEDs for Original KLR dash on their way I am scoping what I need for the conversion to LED's for the Turn signals - the wacko backfeed issue w/LED's - but thinking about rewiring for having side marker lights and turn-signals in same housing Next - Aftermarket Exhaust (current is 12 +years old and likely not breathing well) Dynojet Stage 1 Then some more miles

Jeff Saline
Posts: 2246
Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 6:02 pm

happy thanksgiving!

Post by Jeff Saline » Fri Nov 28, 2014 8:26 pm

On Fri, 28 Nov 2014 21:16:01 -0500 (EST) "Stu klr650zen@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes:
> And especially Thanks to our host - Fred - for helping get my brakes > upgrade (moved up to the Arrowhead 320 mm diameter from EBC). > > It still is not logical to me why the same size pad and the same > surface contact stops better on a bigger diameter rotor - but it > does....
<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Stu, Maybe think of the leverage involved with the brake pads and distance to the axle (pivot point). The further away from the axle the more leverage available for stopping. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . . . . . ____________________________________________________________ Odd Trick Fights Diabetes "Unique" Proven Method To Control Blood Sugar In 3 Weeks. Watch Video. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/54792ea812e62ea773dcst02vuc

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