klr650 valves cover

[Norm Keller]

Perspective differs but think that over 50 years in the business has provided a decent sample size of trade practices and what works.

 

Good to specify that one will do the helicoil install with valve cover off. It simply had not occurred to me that someone would attempt this without removing the cover. Good catch.

 

The bolt hole in the valve cover is larger than the helicoil tap, I think, so could be left in place but agree that this would be a bad practice.

 

The chip issue is far less of a concern than represented, IMO. One simply does not see these particles in bearings during disassembly. It's always good practice to minimize and attempt to remove but one shouldn't accept the need to be NASA clean. Absolutely no need to remove cylinder head over a simple helicoil job. In fact, I represent the risk in removal (of something going wrong) likely negates the advantage.

 

I've seen horrific amounts of stuff left in engines by poor practice or field repairs, but which seemed not to cause problems later on.

 

The amount of "stuff" found in the first oil change after run up of a new or rebuilt engine can be simply amazing. It often includes metal chips, sand, bits of sealer and gasket, none of which seem to make their way into even insert type crankshaft bearings.

 

Even if one runs far heavier than advised oil, these particles must make their way into the sump, through the pick up screen, through the oil pump, and then past the oil filter. Pull apart a few hundred oil pumps and one may agree that one doesn't see much sign of particles doing damage to the pump, even when the engine has been exposed to contaminated oil.

 

When stripping and cleaning engines for over haul one often discovers bits and such sitting in various pockets such that they never even reach the sump.

 

Pilot drilling an existing hole isn't rocket science and should be within the capability of most considered hobby workers. Professionals often hand drill broken manifold bolts in very difficult locations although I'm getting to be past doing much of that. Care and attention to the orientation of the drill will be enough. I hand drilled, by eye, a broken GL1100 mixture screw tip which was snapped off in the orifice. It was about 0.070" in diameter and I was able to concentrically drill it by eye with a 1/16" bit (0.0625"). I am certain that with practice most people here could do better as my eyesight and dexterity at over 65 years is not likely to average.

 

As said, different perspectives but think that stating agreement or disagreement with reasons is part of any discussion.

 

Hope this is not taken as dispute but rather is intended as alternative point of view, offered with respect. We may not agree but I strongly hold that we do have the responsibility to seek the best answer.

 

[JD]

 for my '01.  DP & EBC sintered is what I've used in the past but I'm open to new ideas & products.

What say ye on brake pads front & back??

Oh yeah.  As a proud (cheap) KLR owner,  Who has the best prices??

  ))

 

JD

______________________________________

[John Biccum]

I like the Galfer green in front and the Galfer black on rear.  These recommendations came from a Galfer employee and have worked well. Ensure that the slide pins are clean and smooth or pad wear will be asymmetric. Galfer green are soft and thus easy on the  rotor.From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: 8/ 19/ 2014 9:24 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] It's brake time again    for my '01.  DP & EBC sintered is what I've used in the past but I'm open to new ideas & products. What say ye on brake pads front & back?? Oh yeah.  As a proud (cheap) KLR owner,  Who has the best prices??   ))  JD ______________________________________

[The entire original message is not included.]

[mark ward]

Prices Pricing is all fairly close, give take a dollar or 2. Where to SAVE PLUS. When I buy something from Fred, I order a new set of pads also, do to knowing 2 things.......... 1. Pads wear so, I WILL NEED THEM. 2. (but #1) When ever I have ANY ISSUE (KLR) I know I can E or call Fred and he is there for me/US! THEY ARE SMALL! SO,...If I feel pads will be getting even close to needing being changed by the end of a trip, (1000-5000) I toss that set into my tool kit.  (made that oops 1 time, getting to thin and had trouble chasing down a pair on a trip. 80 miles to a Kaw dealer that was not in the GPS as Kawasaki, was instead "john's (?) motorsports." and that was near a Major city. only way I found them, was by asking at a muffler shop.) SMALL AND CHEAPER & EASIER TO CHANGE THEN A NEW ROTOR. SAFER ALSO On Tuesday, August 19, 2014 12:24 PM, "JD justsayizzy@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

   for my '01.  DP & EBC sintered is what I've used in the past but I'm open to new ideas & products. What say ye on brake pads front & back?? Oh yeah.  As a proud (cheap) KLR owner,  Who has the best prices??   ))  JD ______________________________________ #ygrps-yiv-815260176 #ygrps-yiv-815260176yiv0559050622 #ygrps-yiv-815260176yiv0559050622 -- #ygrps-yiv-815260176yiv0559050622ygrp-mkp { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} #ygrps-yiv-815260176 #ygrps-yiv-815260176yiv0559050622 #ygrps-yiv-815260176yiv0559050622ygrp-mkp hr { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} #ygrps-yiv-815260176 #ygrps-yiv-815260176yiv0559050622 #ygrps-yiv-815260176yiv0559050622ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-815260176yiv0559050622hd { color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;} #ygrps-yiv-815260176 #ygrps-yiv-815260176yiv0559050622 #ygrps-yiv-815260176yiv0559050622ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-815260176yiv0559050622ads { margin-bottom:10px;} #ygrps-yiv-815260176 #ygrps-yiv-815260176yiv0559050622 #ygrps-yiv-815260176yiv0559050622ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-815260176yiv0559050622ad { padding:0 0;} #ygrps-yiv-815260176 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[mark ward]

Hey J. Per your advice, I started running Green & Like them, but I use on both FR & R. Why the Differance?? (Black on R.?)   My 1st guess, Black has less grip/grab, so less likely to lock-up and slide sideways? (THROWING the rider. OOPS) On Tuesday, August 19, 2014 1:26 PM, "mark ward nomad59@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

  Prices Pricing is all fairly close, give take a dollar or 2. Where to SAVE PLUS. When I buy something from Fred, I order a new set of pads also, do to knowing 2 things.......... 1. Pads wear so, I WILL NEED THEM. 2. (but #1) When ever I have ANY ISSUE (KLR) I know I can E or call Fred and he is there for me/US! THEY ARE SMALL! SO,...If I feel pads will be getting even close to needing being changed by the end of a trip, (1000-5000) I toss that set into my tool kit.  (made that oops 1 time, getting to thin and had trouble chasing down a pair on a trip. 80 miles to a Kaw dealer that was not in the GPS as Kawasaki, was instead "john's (?) motorsports." and that was near a Major city. only way I found them, was by asking at a muffler shop.) SMALL AND CHEAPER & EASIER TO CHANGE THEN A NEW ROTOR. SAFER ALSO On Tuesday, August 19, 2014 12:24 PM, "JD justsayizzy@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:    for my '01.  DP & EBC sintered is what I've used in the past but I'm open to new ideas & products. What say ye on brake pads front & back?? Oh yeah.  As a proud (cheap) KLR owner,  Who has the best prices??   ))  JD ______________________________________

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[Martin Earl]

I favor the OEM replacement; OEM and Gaffer's are my only experience.OEM last 2x as long as Gaffers; at least in my 'application'.revmaaatin.

On Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 10:24 AM, JD justsayizzy@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: for my '01. DP & EBC sintered is what I've used in the past but I'm open to new ideas & products. What say ye on brake pads front & back?? Oh yeah. As a proud (cheap) KLR owner, Who has the best prices?? )) JD ______________________________________