camping???? (nklr)

[dooden]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "wjhaynes2" wrote:

> > I need a new battery! What is a good replacement? >

I happened to work at a place with a battery supplier that could get just about any battery type, Northern Battery was the name I think, but they looked up one based off the Yasuma (sp ?) Sealed battery part number I gave them and they brought me a new battery next delivery. Took home, poured in acid and "sealed" the battery up, trickle charged for however long the directions said and have not had a problem since installing couple three years back. I insisted on a "sealed" battery cause I was getting pretty good at keeping the rubber side anywhere but down for awhile (Offroad) and did not want battery acid to kill the Planet.. howz dat for Earth Friendly... If you go sealed, I found that the drain tube holder will hook pant legs if you completely remove the larger tube from the holder, so the tube is in place just to fill in the clip/holder tab. Dooden A15 Green Ape

[Bogdan Swider]

> > > If you go sealed, I found that the drain tube holder will hook pant > legs if you completely remove the larger tube from the holder, so the > tube is in place just to fill in the clip/holder tab. > > Dooden > A15 Green Ape > > >

I found the tube holder you mention, Ape Man, to be the perfect place to put the tube that needs to go somewhere as a result of the Y/T mod. I also went sealed after going down and spilling acid on my ride s frame. Anyway.....what s an extra $30 to a rich guy like me? Bogdan , who wishes all a merry Christmas [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[klrjohn650]

I've used cheapo Yuasa wet cell batteries in all my bikes and have had great luck with them. They run about $35 the last time I bought one (exc. for the one for my '86 VT1100 that was >$100 10 years ago). They don't leak if the bike turtles. I charge the battery on a 2A charger (I know, it's supposed to be 0.5A or something like that) prior to initial installation or if the bike sits for any length of time. I've never had a motorcycle battery fail that wasn't caused by me running it dry. After doing this to two batteries, I learned to check the water level at least every 2m (of course, now that I do, it rarely needs water). I'm on my 3rd year on my present battery. I'll be replacing it next year whether it needs it or not. John

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "svw714221" wrote: > > I went to the garage yesterday and noticed more battery acid dripping > on the side of my KLR, after cleaning everything up the other day and > checking the battery case for cracks. I pulled it apart again and > noticed acid on top of the battery, but still saw no cracks. I put > everything back together and went for a ride, stopping every 10 miles > or so to take a look, nothing for 20-30 miles, then at the next stop - > I saw the positive terminal had a crack on the side when the battery > was warm, that was the only time the thing would leak. > So now I have a 2003 with 450 miles and now the fun will start when I > call the dealer later today, I wonder what ,if anything they will do. > > Scott >

[Tumu Rock]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "nakedwaterskier" wrote:

> > Is it worth saving 30 dollars? Hell no. I would rather not take my > seat off and side panels off 3 extra times a year! >

When $30 is ~50% savings for the same performance duration, the math becomes personal... da Vermonster

[Ron Magen]

I've been following this discussion about batteries. While I've just acquired a 'New-to-Me' KLR -immaculate in my opinion and at a GOOD price-, as a small boat sailor & builder I DO have some valid experience with batteries. So I guess it's O.K. to 'put my oar in'. {Also I've kept alive an 18-year old small pick-up . . .} When I first acquired {about 1990} a 19ft 'trailer-sailer' it was equipped with a 'wet-cell' battery. It was in a case & well strapped down - however it was a bit awkward to reach under a cabinet on the side of the bilge. Obviously so problematic that the previous owner didn't check it frequently enough - about half the cells were bad. I took the 'cheap route' and replaced it with another 'wet cell'. While I did have TWO hygrometers -a large very accurate one and a small 'tester'- using either one was awkward. But the REAL PIA was ADDING WATER. It was also interesting to note how much EVAPORATION was occurring in a compact closed container, in a closed bilge. That first year I watched it very closely. I immediately knew I wanted to change it . . while I monitored it closely I did a bit of research. The BEST battery type was the Sealed Deep Cycle GEL-CELL . . . NOT CHEAP but THE best. Waited for a sale and got one at MY price - took about two years!! What is pertinent here is that the Sealed AGM type came in #2. With the 'demise' of the mechanical 'kick starter' {even as a back-up}, the health of the battery becomes a primary concern - at least in MY opinion. The enclosed area, the heat and the possibility of a 'knock-down' -not to mention the frequent periods of vibration- are probably worse then in my bilge. Supposedly, one of the things the previous owner did was install a 'maintenance-free' battery. As soon as it warms up {gets above freezing !!} I'll be removing it for winter storage {in shop on a 'trickle' charger}. At that time I'll inspect it and make plans accordingly. The 'working life' of a battery in car is considered 5-years {60 months}. With a well-used motorcycle I'd look at 2-1/2 years {30 months} as 'break-even' point and start looking for it's replacement. Regards, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop 4a. Re: Battery Posted by: "Tumu Rock" guymanbro@... guymanbro Date: Tue Dec 23, 2008 12:15 pm ((PST)) wrote:

> Is it worth saving 30 dollars? Hell no. I would rather not take my seat > off and side panels off 3 extra times a year! >

When $30 is ~50% savings for the same performance duration, the math becomes personal... da Vermonster

[David Bell]

I have had a lot better lifespan from mc batteries than 21/2 years. More like 3-4 years. I do get to ride year round down here in Texas, but may have a few weeks of no riding when I plug in a battery tender. Whenever I start suspecting that the battery is getting weak, I'll replace it. I've had very good luck with Odyssey batteries, have had about 4 or them. ________________________________ From: Ron Magen To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 1:07:11 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: battery I've been following this discussion about batteries. While I've just acquired a 'New-to-Me' KLR -immaculate in my opinion and at a GOOD price-, as a small boat sailor & builder I DO have some valid experience with batteries. So I guess it's O.K. to 'put my oar in'. {Also I've kept alive an 18-year old small pick-up . . .} When I first acquired {about 1990} a 19ft 'trailer-sailer' it was equipped with a 'wet-cell' battery. It was in a case & well strapped down - however it was a bit awkward to reach under a cabinet on the side of the bilge. Obviously so problematic that the previous owner didn't check it frequently enough - about half the cells were bad. I took the 'cheap route' and replaced it with another 'wet cell'. While I did have TWO hygrometers -a large very accurate one and a small 'tester'- using either one was awkward. But the REAL PIA was ADDING WATER. It was also interesting to note how much EVAPORATION was occurring in a compact closed container, in a closed bilge. That first year I watched it very closely. I immediately knew I wanted to change it . . while I monitored it closely I did a bit of research. The BEST battery type was the Sealed Deep Cycle GEL-CELL . . . NOT CHEAP but THE best. Waited for a sale and got one at MY price - took about two years!! What is pertinent here is that the Sealed AGM type came in #2. With the 'demise' of the mechanical 'kick starter' {even as a back-up}, the health of the battery becomes a primary concern - at least in MY opinion. The enclosed area, the heat and the possibility of a 'knock-down' -not to mention the frequent periods of vibration- are probably worse then in my bilge. Supposedly, one of the things the previous owner did was install a 'maintenance- free' battery. As soon as it warms up {gets above freezing !!} I'll be removing it for winter storage {in shop on a 'trickle' charger}. At that time I'll inspect it and make plans accordingly. The 'working life' of a battery in car is considered 5-years {60 months}. With a well-used motorcycle I'd look at 2-1/2 years {30 months} as 'break-even' point and start looking for it's replacement. Regards, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop 4a. Re: Battery Posted by: "Tumu Rock" guymanbro@yahoo. com guymanbro Date: Tue Dec 23, 2008 12:15 pm ((PST)) wrote:

> Is it worth saving 30 dollars? Hell no. I would rather not take my seat > off and side panels off 3 extra times a year! >

When $30 is ~50% savings for the same performance duration, the math becomes personal... da Vermonster [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Ron Magen]

Dave, Agreed. I've even gone beyond the 'standard' 5 years - it's simply a case of attention & PM {Preventative Maintenance}. Also I didn't say BUY a new battery at 2.5 years - just start LOOKING for that replacement at YOUR price. With the usual car/truck battery placement it's no effort to lift the hood and look. Even so - I don't think there is a 4-wheel vehicle sold today that DOESN'T have a 'Maintenance Free' battery. With my boat battery placement, and the KLR battery placement - the 'aggravation factor' is all the more reason to have a similar type of battery. Regards, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop Posted by: "David Bell" davebbell@... davebbell I have had a lot better lifespan from mc batteries than 21/2 years. . . .

[Charlie Y]

In the wifey's old Toyota Tercel once I noticed that the water was low in the battery, so I told her " Get some water in it at the gas station" Well, I'm under the hood looking for "a rattle" later and lo and behold the battery IS loose. Seems the DS kid at the corner gas station couldn't get the caps off, so he hammered a screwdriver ~through~ the plastic caps to turn them out. The end result was the acid was liberally splashed all over the engine compartment, with most of it rotting out the battery shelf. Learnt my freekin lesson on that one.

----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Magen" To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 2:07 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: battery > with a 'wet-cell' battery.

[dooden]

Just another reason for a sealed battery... My reason is more spillage, not having to add water. KLR with the rubber side always down would be boring, might as well bought a Honda Rebel. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Charlie Y" wrote: > > > In the wifey's old Toyota Tercel once I noticed that the water was low > in the battery, so I told her " Get some water in it at the gas station" > Well, I'm under the hood looking for "a rattle" later and lo and behold the > battery IS loose. Seems the DS kid at the corner gas station couldn't > get the caps off, so he hammered a screwdriver ~through~ the plastic caps > to turn them out. The end result was the acid was liberally splashed all over > the engine compartment, with most of it rotting out the battery shelf. > Learnt my freekin lesson on that one. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ron Magen" > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 2:07 PM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: battery > > > > with a 'wet-cell' battery. >

[Andrus Chesley]

I've always found my KLR's to be hard on regular batteries. Sealed is the only way to go for me. NO problems the last years with several batteries before.