nklr [dsn_klr650] this fan issue is making me nucking futs.

[RobertWichert]

All I have are 10 mm and .45 ACP. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 8/7/2014 9:28 AM, Paul Whatley pwhatfourever@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:

22 long rifle shell works well for this. Paul Yes i'm kidding! Don't even try this at home. Sent from my iPhone On Aug 7, 2014, at 11:19 AM, "RobertWichert robert@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: This is why all fuses must be wrapped in thick aluminum foil before inserting them in their holders or be replaced with solid bars to avoid failures. Just kidding. Not really. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 8/7/2014 9:10 AM, Bogdan Swider bSwider@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote: Maybe this has been covered or isn't relevant as I can't remember where the fuse is located. Don't assume that the fuse in line to the fan is not broken even if it looks fine. Test it for continuity. That was the reason my fan wouldn't engage. It had a crack that was closed and thus not visible to the naked eye when the bike was cold. When the bike warmed up it would open up and cut off current to the fan. When I finally put the meter to a warm bike, I found this out. Bogdan From: "'Norm Keller' normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Reply-To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>, Norm Keller Date: Wednesday, August 6, 2014 3:07 PM To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: This fan issue is making me nucking futs. Help! New radiator, fan works with fan switch wire grounded. Two problems I see as possible: 1) New fan switch is also bad. Not that likely, IME. 2) The radiator is not grounded to the chassis. Try using a jumper wire to connect the radiator to a bare engine or chassis point such as a bare bolt or the end of a cooling fin. Sounds like the new radiator's rubber mountings may be isolating the ground side. Just had a real head banger diagnosing an ABS brake modulator which I had repaired and shipped back to Germany. The Honda test procedure concluded the modulator was at fault but the problem was that the shop had reconnected the ground wire to the bracket rather than the modulator itself. Couldn't ground through the rubber grommets. Just a thought. If that doesn't solve it, the fan switch needs to be tested. Jumper to the base, jumper to the spade connector, base jumper to battery negative, spade jumper to a test light or light bulb, light bulb to battery positive. Confirm by touching the spade jumper to the base: light should illuminate. Then place the switch into a small container of water and heat to a boil (jumpers hooked up). About the time the water is starting to boil, the light should illuminate. If you're at quite high altitude, the water may boil below 210 F (switch's set point) so you may have to use some coolant in place of water to achieve a higher boiling temperature. A meat or other cooking thermometer will do the temperature measuring duty but not necessary near sea level with water as will see the boiling. HIH

[Martin Earl]

IME-"Never confess your weapons on the internet""Never purchase ammo or guns with a credit card"

On Thu, Aug 7, 2014 at 10:33 AM, RobertWichert robert@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: All I have are 10 mm and .45 ACP. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 8/7/2014 9:28 AM, Paul Whatley pwhatfourever@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote: 22 long rifle shell works well for this. Paul Yes i'm kidding! Don't even try this at home. Sent from my iPhone On Aug 7, 2014, at 11:19 AM, "RobertWichert robert@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: This is why all fuses must be wrapped in thick aluminum foil before inserting them in their holders or be replaced with solid bars to avoid failures. Just kidding. Not really. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 8/7/2014 9:10 AM, Bogdan Swider bSwider@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote: Maybe this has been covered or isn't relevant as I can't remember where the fuse is located. Don't assume that the fuse in line to the fan is not broken even if it looks fine. Test it for continuity. That was the reason my fan wouldn't engage. It had a crack that was closed and thus not visible to the naked eye when the bike was cold. When the bike warmed up it would open up and cut off current to the fan. When I finally put the meter to a warm bike, I found this out. Bogdan From: "'Norm Keller' normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Reply-To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>, Norm Keller Date: Wednesday, August 6, 2014 3:07 PM To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: This fan issue is making me nucking futs. Help! New radiator, fan works with fan switch wire grounded. Two problems I see as possible: 1) New fan switch is also bad. Not that likely, IME. 2) The radiator is not grounded to the chassis. Try using a jumper wire to connect the radiator to a bare engine or chassis point such as a bare bolt or the end of a cooling fin. Sounds like the new radiator's rubber mountings may be isolating the ground side. Just had a real head banger diagnosing an ABS brake modulator which I had repaired and shipped back to Germany. The Honda test procedure concluded the modulator was at fault but the problem was that the shop had reconnected the ground wire to the bracket rather than the modulator itself. Couldn't ground through the rubber grommets. Just a thought. If that doesn't solve it, the fan switch needs to be tested. Jumper to the base, jumper to the spade connector, base jumper to battery negative, spade jumper to a test light or light bulb, light bulb to battery positive. Confirm by touching the spade jumper to the base: light should illuminate. Then place the switch into a small container of water and heat to a boil (jumpers hooked up). About the time the water is starting to boil, the light should illuminate. If you're at quite high altitude, the water may boil below 210 F (switch's set point) so you may have to use some coolant in place of water to achieve a higher boiling temperature. A meat or other cooking thermometer will do the temperature measuring duty but not necessary near sea level with water as will see the boiling. HIH