[bulk] [dsn_klr650] unscheduled dismount prompts repair

[revmaaatin]

Did you know-- The sidestand bolt should not be over-tightened? That 'tight', is really, just snug, and then, its only lightly snug? And if you think you are going to take the slop out of the side stand by tightening the side-stand-bolt, that, well, that is NOT going to happen. Nope. Not going to happen. Did you know-- That AFTER you get the bolt snug, you THEN tighten the nut on the back side. (You did know there is a nut, right?)  and if you do crank on that bolt, it will continue to turn, and turn and turn. and then you get to go, sigh.hhhh.. or worse. That is what I heard. Yep, that is what I heard. I also saw the guy (in the mirror) go across the workbench and pull out a new bolt that had been there for over 8 years waiting to be replaced in the 1st wife, uh, first KLR's sidestand.  waited 8 years, no ill effects on the first KLR. shrug. Then I saw the guy go across the shop and pull the spare sidestand and low and behold, it had a nut...for the dolt, uh, bolt. Of course, I required adult supervision, and grateful to have it.  and this is just the short version. revmaaatin. ps. the spare sidestand nut was a Fuji nut, (is that OEM?) so it should not be over tightened either. oh, I suppose there is a torque spec on page xyz of the Clymers, but a little late for that.

[ron criswell]

??? Mine is loose and sloppy......what do I do again??? RC (aka ....Criswell) Sent from my iPad

On Jul 30, 2014, at 9:58 PM, "mjearl4@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

  Did you know-- The sidestand bolt should not be over-tightened? That 'tight', is really, just snug, and then, its only lightly snug? And if you think you are going to take the slop out of the side stand by tightening the side-stand-bolt, that, well, that is NOT going to happen. Nope. Not going to happen. Did you know-- That AFTER you get the bolt snug, you THEN tighten the nut on the back side. (You did know there is a nut, right?)  and if you do crank on that bolt, it will continue to turn, and turn and turn. and then you get to go, sigh.hhhh.. or worse. That is what I heard. Yep, that is what I heard. I also saw the guy (in the mirror) go across the workbench and pull out a new bolt that had been there for over 8 years waiting to be replaced in the 1st wife, uh, first KLR's sidestand.  waited 8 years, no ill effects on the first KLR. shrug. Then I saw the guy go across the shop and pull the spare sidestand and low and behold, it had a nut...for the dolt, uh, bolt. Of course, I required adult supervision, and grateful to have it.  and this is just the short version. revmaaatin. ps. the spare sidestand nut was a Fuji nut, (is that OEM?) so it should not be over tightened either. oh, I suppose there is a torque spec on page xyz of the Clymers, but a little late for that.

[bigburlybaldbeardedbiker]

Ron Criswell asked, referring to his sidestand:  

>??? Mine is loose and sloppy......what do I do again???

First, pull the sidestand off, and squeeze the forked ends together in a vise, re-install.   That will last awhile.   Then, loosen your fork tubes and slide them up in the triple clamps a half inch or so, that will help keep the KLR upright even if the sidestand is floppy. Paul Streeter

[Eddie]

I bought a "Hella" knockoff HID kit I saw on eBay. The pair drew only about 70 watts total and put out a claimed equivelent 200w of light per. In my 09' KLR, it worked pretty well after a few adjustments. The ballasts were mounted just inside the fairing on the left & right with the plug/play wiring tied off with plastic ties. The bulbs fit fine. But, since the headlamp reflectors weren't designed for them(too long and had the "hot spot" too far out, the light was directed poorly, particularly the low beam. I took a strip of thin aluminum (2mm thick?) about 8mm wide and shaped it into a ring that just barely fit inside the left bulb socket. That spaced the bulb back a corresponding amount and centered the "hot spot" of the bulb better in relation to the reflector facets. Still aimed way too high, I had to adjust the headlight aim with the stock screw a fair amount before I stopped blinding birds in flight. At night, the light was incredible. Out in the countryside, on high beam, it seemed like I was lighting up everything. Street signs reflected from far as 1/2 a mile or more. The inexpensive kit was less than $50 and was still working into it's second year when I sold the bike. I had Sylvania Silverstar halogens that didn't last that long and cost about the same per pair.   -eddie My $0.02.

----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] nomad59@... [DSN_KLR650] [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com ; normkel32@... [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, August 05, 2014 2:34 PM [b]Subject:[/b] [Bulk] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Unscheduled dismount prompts repair questions   2 things. 1st. who do you recommend for getting a HID as a fair price? 2 Wouldn't the upgraded wiring also benefit the HID? On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 1:24 PM, "'Norm Keller' normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:   It looks to be a plug & play harness. Thanks for mentioning as I never even look for commercial versions so was not aware of them. Will try to recall the option if someone asks.   The wiring is so simple because of 50+ years of doing the stuff professionally that I don't think of buying. Of course, they guy who finds the wiring to be more trouble than value is in one aisle buying a harness while I'm in another buying something which he can make for nothing in a few minutes.    I do encourage anyone considering headlight options to consider the option of HID. They draw much less power and many of us like the quality of the light. I'm not trying to divert from your intention to improve the quartz bulb but rather simply wishing someone to avoid upgrading the the system for better quartz bulb operation and then going to HID which makes the upgrading redundant. I don't think either is wrong, one is simply better based on one's preferences.   HIH