klr650 valves

[ato137528]

I previous asked the question if a two-wire radiator fan motor from a Gen II bike would fit a Gen I bike.  I still don't know, but I DO know that a two-wire fan motor from a EX 500 will screw right into the bracket on a KLR.  It also has the 8 blade fan.  So if the ground wire is the only difference, I assume it will work.  I got a EX fan assembly for $18.50 on eBay because my test light said the power wire was hot all the way to the fan motor plug.  When I plugged in the new motor...nothing.  The relay clicked, but there wasn't power to the blue wire when the motor was plugged in, even though there was when it wasn't plugged in.  There's the exact relay behind the little panel for the kickstand safety switch.  I tried it and the fan ran like a champ.  A quick trip to Auto Zone and $30 later, I had an exact replacement relay.  Part number is Duralast 19829.  

[Norm Keller]

The voltmeter & test light will often fool one in that way. A very high resistance in the circuit, such as that provided by burned relay contacts, will provide sufficient power without excessive voltage drop to operate a volt meter or small light bulb. It will not provide enough power to operate a larger load such as a fan motor or even head light bulb.

 

Jumpering or use of a tool such as a Power Probe will avoid this issue.

 

If one were to measure the voltage at the fan motor plug, or observe the brightness of the light bulb, it would have been noticed (as you did) that there is full power available to that load. Insert a jumper into the plug so that the voltage can be measured while the fan motor is plugged in, and it will be noticed that the voltage is now near zero. The test light, if employed instead, will fail to light. This is where voltage drop testing shines.

 

Glad you got going with a modest sacrifice.

[mark ward]

I was FOOLED, AND TIP!  FOOLED! As Norm said, I tested voltage to a cloths washer motor, and had 110, yet the motor would not turn at all, so simple answer....NEW MOTOR ($$$) The wire was the basic strand, (several small wires making cord) like any lamp cord. a few small tips of a broken wire sent threw the 110v but not enough AMPS/WATTS to power the motor. TIP!  I like to HARD WIRE, (jumpers, etc) to bypass relays to test the item, then when I travel to by parts, (electrical are NON-returnable) i just get what is needed. A relay can be bypassed by conecting the 2 wires to the item, avoid the 2 small wires the control the relay. SAME WITH THE THERMOSTAT, Bypass to test the fan etc. because the fan needs the T.stat hot to start, jump it out, (bypass) and it will run even when the bike is cold. On Sunday, July 6, 2014 1:26 PM, "'Norm Keller' normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

  The voltmeter & test light will often fool one in that way. A very high resistance in the circuit, such as that provided by burned relay contacts, will provide sufficient power without excessive voltage drop to operate a volt meter or small light bulb. It will not provide enough power to operate a larger load such as a fan motor or even head light bulb.   Jumpering or use of a tool such as a Power Probe will avoid this issue.   If one were to measure the voltage at the fan motor plug, or observe the brightness of the light bulb, it would have been noticed (as you did) that there is full power available to that load. Insert a jumper into the plug so that the voltage can be measured while the fan motor is plugged in, and it will be noticed that the voltage is now near zero. The test light, if employed instead, will fail to light. This is where voltage drop testing shines.   Glad you got going with a modest sacrifice. #ygrps-yiv-504320489 #ygrps-yiv-504320489yiv8828999402 #ygrps-yiv-504320489yiv8828999402 -- #ygrps-yiv-504320489yiv8828999402ygrp-mkp { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} #ygrps-yiv-504320489 #ygrps-yiv-504320489yiv8828999402 #ygrps-yiv-504320489yiv8828999402ygrp-mkp hr { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} #ygrps-yiv-504320489 #ygrps-yiv-504320489yiv8828999402 #ygrps-yiv-504320489yiv8828999402ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-504320489yiv8828999402hd { color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;} #ygrps-yiv-504320489 #ygrps-yiv-504320489yiv8828999402 #ygrps-yiv-504320489yiv8828999402ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-504320489yiv8828999402ads { margin-bottom:10px;} #ygrps-yiv-504320489 #ygrps-yiv-504320489yiv8828999402 #ygrps-yiv-504320489yiv8828999402ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-504320489yiv8828999402ad { padding:0 0;} #ygrps-yiv-504320489 #ygrps-yiv-504320489yiv8828999402 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[ron criswell]

Hey Bogdan, thanks for the books. RC Sent from my iPad

On Jul 6, 2014, at 9:48 AM, "Bogdan Swider bSwider@... [DSN_KLR650]"DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

  I find the of the marks that situate the cams to be sloppy; they don't line up perfectly and thus can be confusing. To take away any guesswork, I draw a line on the chain and sprocket before I take the cams out. White chalk is sufficient it you're careful not to rub int out; nail polish would be better. Bogdan   From: "Jeff Saline salinej1@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Reply-To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>, Jeff Saline Date: Saturday, July 5, 2014 8:48 AM To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>, "zrislois2klr@..." Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] klr650 Valves   On Fri, 4 Jul 2014 07:02:42 -0700 "Luc Legrain zrislois2klr@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes:   Jeff You were correct the measurements are incorrect ,so I had to take cam shafts off replace the "new "shims with the old ones ,put cam shaft back ,re-torque cam caps , I borrowed a feeler gauge and am now ready to measure gap . Question : I had the arrows on the cam shaft sprockets aligned properly with the top of the head ,but when I put back the timing chain tensioner the spring in the tensioner push everything up about 1/2 inch . How to you keep the arrows aligned when putting tension on the timing chain ? Thank You   <><><><><><> <><><><><><>   Luc,   To keep the timing of the cams correct when installing them I gently pull the chain up from the front side of the engine.  This is the run of chain that is pulled down when the engine is running.  So pulling up on it removes any slack.  I set the exhaust cam first and then move to the intake cam again gently pulling the chain toward the intake cam.  Again, this removes slack from that run of chain.  Any slack left should now be on the rear side of the intake cam and will be removed when the cam tensioner is installed.  You can put a finger in the cam chain tensioner hole in the rear of the cylinder and push on the tensioner guide.  It should remove slack so you can easily see if the timing marks on the cam sprockets remain aligned correctly.  Don't have your finger in the hole when you turn the engine over.   I'll suggest you should only turn the engine counter clockwise as that is the direction the engine turns when running.  The tension of the chain is between the crankshaft sprocket and exhaust cam and then between the exhaust cam and the intake cam.  There should be no tension on the run of the cam chain between the intake cam and crankshaft sprocket other than what is put there by the cam chain tensioner.   Turning the engine in a clockwise direction puts tension on the cam chain tensioner which it is not designed to handle.   I will suggest you do not rotate the engine if the cams are not properly aligned.  The KLR engine is an interference engine meaning the valves when open will occupy the same space as the piston when it is at top dead center.  That means they can contact which will probably result in a bent valve in some instances.  You can bend a valve turning the engine over by hand if the cams are not correctly timed.   Glad you are getting the clearances figured out.   Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . . . .   ____________________________________________________________ [b]The #1 Worst Carb Ever?[/b] Click to Learn #1 Carb that Kills Your Blood Sugar (Don't Eat This!) FixYourBloodSugar.com