valves ...again ..

[Eddie]

+1 on stuffing rags/sturdy paper towels in the abyss around the cam chain area. White will make it easier to see the elusive dowel pins (tubes, really) that Fred spoke off should you drop one. And remember the cam cap torque figures are in inch-pounds!!! It'll take you twice as long to check/adjust 'em the 1st time as next time. But, since you are using the 35k mile interval it might not see another adjustment. Like Mark said, check YouTube and learn what the Dorito-shaped engine mount looks like and why it needs to be removed to make cam cover removal easier. Just don't do like that goofy eddie guy in Georgia and pinch wires behind it when going back together and mess up your neutral light temporarily. Signed, That eddie guy in Ga.   = )   PS: Here's a handy referency tool for all: A shim calculator! VERY SIMPLE AND EASY!!! http://www.maultechatv.com/techguides/Valve%20Clearance%20Calculator/    

----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] nomad59@... [DSN_KLR650] [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com ; zrislois2klr@... ; nomad59@... [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, June 13, 2014 4:13 PM [b]Subject:[/b] [Bulk] Re: [DSN_KLR650] klr650 Valves  

PS. A few good videos on Youtube,  And at least 1 cam bolt is hard to reach in to it wit torque wrench, so I used a 1/4inch drive extension, and heated it with a torch, to make a Z shape, to fit in there.  On Friday, June 13, 2014 4:08 PM, "mark ward nomad59@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:   MUST know what is in use now.    x+2=? makes for impossible math.  So, SHIM size, AND Gap NEEDED. When you are done this time, Make note in your book etc. what you put where? I do NOT completely remove the Cams, I use a small pencil magnet, and pocket screwdriver, or knife edge, sometimes to break the oily seal, the lift with out Magnet. (Magnet at ANY auto or hardware store, 2inch pencil size, with hinged telescopic handle.) Remember to stuff Rags in hole by chain incase you drop a shim. OOPS Mark (West Mich.)  On Friday, June 13, 2014 3:50 PM, "Luc Legrain zrislois2klr@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Ladies and Germs , It's been quite while since I posted . I finally stopped procrastinating, and on this 5th rainy day, finally decided to do a valve check . Background.. A19 ..36436.2 miles ; first and only valves check was done at 1500 miles ( bought it brand new ) here is what I have : intake right 0.012m/m                                  intake  left  0.004 m/m ( only guessing on this one ,my gauges don't go below .006 mils)                                  exhaust right 0.011 m/m                                      exhaust left    0.015 m/m                        no ideas what size shims are used (number upside down ) can't know with out removing cams .  34936.2 miles ago I got from Fred that little plastic can with 16 (?) shims in ,kept oiled and hidden took me 2 hours to find the booger !  Before I take the cams off please tell me what size shim I need to use . Don't wanna use the calculator .. (lazy) . I want to be on the top end of the specs , so I can ride happily ever after ! Thanks for the feed back .   

[Luc Legrain]

simplification on previous question . I want the valves to open as much as it is allowed .What should I be shooting for ?

[Norm Keller]

IMO, the largest risk is in manipulating the cam caps. They often bind on the dowels such that one can feel as though it is seated but rather it is cocked. Make absolutely certain that the caps are seated to the head before tightening the bolts, otherwise you may distort or break a cap.

 

If you record the clearances and shims which are in each location before and after the adjustment/inspection, you will have a jump on the next time.

 

As for the shims needed- others have nailed that but will try to add some more thoughts:

The clearances will become smaller because valve recession is the normal change in valve train. This means that the shim needed will be thinner than the one in place. * Note: If you discover that the valve clearance is larger than specified- STOP!

 

If clearance is larger than specified, you may have made a mistake; there is carbon/deposit build-up on the valves; bent valve; seizing valve guide; etc. These possibilities must be considered and qualified.

 

I also don't use the shim calculator- seems a waste of time to me but that's just me. Every "step" in valve shim number is 0.002" in thickness so I simply consider the amount of clearance change needed divided by 2  (0.002) which gives the number of "steps" in the valve shim ID number. If the shim in place is a 265 and 0.004" increase in clearance is needed, then that is 2 steps in shim number so 265, 260, 255.

 

Since I'm old and mentally defective (hope someone thinks this is a joke), I measure the replacement shim with a digital caliper, note the thickness, hit "Zero", then measure the original. The dimension shown on the caliper will be the difference in thickness which should match the 0.004" needed. I then close the caliper which should read the dimension of the original and do a quick calculation to insure that it matches the 0.004" needed.  Not a big deal if I'm wrong as will check the clearance with a feeler before buttoning up the cover.

 

Be careful not to use one bolt to pull the cam cap down. If you cannot get the cap to go down so that the cap is mating with the head surface, pull the cap and recheck. Sometimes they need a little "help" but don't, absolutely don't assume. If you've trapped some bit of debris which has fallen in, you can distort/break the cap, break a bolt and/or result in excessive cam bearing slack. If a cam cap is broken, the head is finished unless you have extra-ordinary intervention available.

 

Anyone in the Fraser Valley is more than welcome to a hand/advice in doing valve adjustment. I'll also try to help by direct email if that's useful. I'm retired and enjoy the challenge of remote servicing.

 

Norm