need side covers

[Ron Haraseth]

links to go along (that didn t imbed).  You will have to cutnpaste.   https://5vxh1g.bn1303.livefilestore.com/y2pgS94eQLCvADhumne0smcAJpFFornNUcuqrRVJqAA3DtUATUWC9BpHm5DCdFsZT0A4_LZbsCO0XVZI01BrH9gEwn242agzzqIFVwTxdtecKM/IMG_2034.JPG?psid=1   https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=5CDAA034425A7FFF&id=5CDAA034425A7FFF%213795#cid=5CDAA034425A7FFF&id=5CDAA034425A7FFF%219040&v=3   http://www.ebay.com/itm/10W-12V-Waterproof-LED-Underwater-Spot-Light-Pool-Pond-Wash-Lamp-Cool-Warm-White-/261366474160?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item3cdaa7e5b0   [b]From:[/b] rharaseth@... [b]Sent:[/b] Thursday, January 09, 2014 12:54 PM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] RE: [DSN_KLR650] Re: "IL-Legal" head lights??     pool lights Mounting strap aluminum. Using the stock fairing bolts. EBAY source $8 each LED w/thick projector lens. 10 watt. The mounting bracket they supply is not the best thus my own version. They are rather weather proof as you might imagine. They do not have and electronic control internal so work well with a PWM dimmer, BUT they do have a high wattage resistor internal which should be glued down so that the wires don t break. You can unscrew the units to access the resistor. Very rugged properly mounted. (I ve thoroughly test that aspect) Good for day notice and do add to the night use. Ron From: Stu Mitchell Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2014 12:10 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Bulk] Re: [Bulk] RE: [DSN_KLR650] Re: "IL-Legal" head lights?? Slight claim jumping of this thread. but it's still about lights. But what are some good driving/fog lights that don't require two checks (first one ain't big enough).. to purchase. I want to find a pair of lights I could mount either on the fairing or on my engine guards to get extra visibility for me on the road at night vs just a pair of lights to help me be more visible to others. Thanks Shellon & Stu ~~~~~/)~~~~~ "Life is short, break the rules, forgive quickly, kiss slowly, love truly, laugh uncontrollably, and never regret anything that made you smile. Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." -Mark Twain From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of RobertWichert Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2014 1:44 PM To: Norm Keller; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Bulk] Re: [Bulk] RE: [DSN_KLR650] Re: "IL-Legal" head lights?? From what I have read on HID, there are more aiming issues than with this Plug-And-Play LED option. Also, if it burns out it would appear that you could go back to stock by the side of the road if you had a spare bulb. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 1/9/2014 10:36 AM, Norm Keller wrote: I've been installing H4 HID kits off EBay for several years. These cost $30-$35.00 and have a 2 amp to 2.3 amp draw when fully "warmed up" so after a few minutes. I am also playing with improving lighting on some Honda CT90/CT110 bikes and have another LED H4 bulb on order. This bulb has about 600 Lumens output but only draws 0.4 amps. Not of interest for a KLR but looks like it might be a significant improvement for the CT's. Stepping power from 6 volts to 12 volts (14.6) is doable inexpensively for currents up to 4 or 5 amps to holding that as the limit right now. The problem I see regarding this LED set-up is that it costs 2x to 3x what I can buy a standard, off the shelf HID kit. If the HID bulb or ballast quits, spares are fairly common in stores so unlikely to be stuck for either parts or trouble shooting. The LED would seem to be unique. Interesting to hear your impressions if you do try but not on my radar as don't see the advantage over HID. HIH Norm "We've got no money so we've got to think." Ernest Rutherford the father of nuclear physics. --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Norm Keller]

I've seen several "attention gathering" lights and added some for myself. Others' ideas and experiences are very valuable.   A pair of the old tear drop clearance lights with LED bulbs can be an inexpensive and viable option. They are quite light and the brackets bend into various shapes which is handy.   http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Yankee-Lighting-Vintage-Beehive-Clearance-Marker-Lamp-s-Amber-/141150874743?hash=item20dd3f6c77&vxp=mtr   These are available in amber, clear & red.   Not the most elegant but a solution for some and an inexpensive basis for experimentation for others.   I have also modified the front turn signals to stay on as running lights. It is simple to make them flash off/on rather than on/off so that they can be both turn and running lights. Even simpler if they use LED lights in the front signals.       "We've got no money so we've got to think." Ernest Rutherford the father of nuclear physics.

[ttman54]

In need of set of red side covers, (rear) for 2005 KLR650. Am checking ebay but no luck so far.

[zoot]

I got some of the Cree 18w (2x3) led spots for my bike and the immediate increased visibility to my wife in her rear view mirror, and to oncoming traffic, had me putting 16w (2x2) led spots on hers.  Had to be careful to order the spots and not the floods, mounted to the cowling frame.  Lit up some dear on the side of the road first night I drove them home from work.  Had it to do over, I'd have put the 2x2's on mine too. Generally find that they increase the light in the low beam range, and keep that increase when you switch to high.  100w high beam is still marginal for distance illumination.  The plug in HID looks interesting, especially with lower wattage draw, but I like to hear some experience. Todd

On 1/10/2014 11:52 AM, Norm Keller wrote:

  I've seen several "attention gathering" lights and added some for myself. Others' ideas and experiences are very valuable.   A pair of the old tear drop clearance lights with LED bulbs can be an inexpensive and viable option. They are quite light and the brackets bend into various shapes which is handy.   http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Yankee-Lighting-Vintage-Beehive-Clearance-Marker-Lamp-s-Amber-/141150874743?hash=item20dd3f6c77&vxp=mtr   These are available in amber, clear & red.   Not the most elegant but a solution for some and an inexpensive basis for experimentation for others.   I have also modified the front turn signals to stay on as running lights. It is simple to make them flash off/on rather than on/off so that they can be both turn and running lights. Even simpler if they use LED lights in the front signals.       "We've got no money so we've got to think." Ernest Rutherford the father of nuclear physics.

[Norm Keller]

Best thing I can suggest is to order an H4 HID kit off EBay and try it for yourself. I have heard various concerns about aiming and such, but often from people who haven't actually used the HID conversions. Their opinion might be different if they were relying on first hand experience rather than something they had read...maybe not.   The kits cost about $30.00 so not a life changer if one does not like and they can be installed temporarily in a few minutes. The fact that they use a relay and their own dedicated power wire from the battery means that the headlight load comes off the bike's tiny wiring which improves power to other things.   When buying, make sure that the kit has a separate power wire with fuse as a few kits simply plug into the headlight alone for power to the HID. The HID draws up to 20 amps for a second or two on start, then drops to something like 14 amps for a few seconds, then down to about 5 amps for a minute or two before leveling out at 2- 2.5 amps. Some wiring harnesses and switches don't like the initial draw. I've heard of a few people who claim to have burned out a headlight or dimmer switch on their car through use of one of the kits which do not have a dedicated power supply but the people who were making the claim were not high functioning types so may have been repeating something myth they had heard. Regardless, no reason to use that type of set-up.   Another thing to consider is that the HID bulb types differ and the ones with the large bottom on the bulb will not allow the full circle headlight bulb retainer ring to pass over the bulb. These bulbs are great for headlights using a bail spring but not for the KLR. The KLR needs a bulb with a small diameter bottom. These are the bulbs which some with three adapter rings to fit the bulb to H4, Honda and "can't remember the other one".   This link shows the type of bulb I recommend for the KLR and the type of harness: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/35W-Motorcycle-Bike-Hi-Lo-Bi-Xenon-HID-Bulb-H4-H6-P15D-25-2-P43T-38-6000K-/121025981391?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2db5ebcf&vxp=mtr   I don't necessarily recommend this listing over any other. The bulbs and harnesses seem to be virtually identical from various sellers with the difference being the "ballast" and bulb color. *Note: I never use bulbs other than the 4000K (normal white) range.

[Horton Oliphant]

I'm a little confused by the picture. Where is the ballast if this is a HID set up? Alan Henderson A13 Iowa

On 1/13/2014 12:21 PM, Norm Keller wrote:

  Best thing I can suggest is to order an H4 HID kit off EBay and try it for yourself. I have heard various concerns about aiming and such, but often from people who haven't actually used the HID conversions. Their opinion might be different if they were relying on first hand experience rather than something they had read...maybe not.   The kits cost about $30.00 so not a life changer if one does not like and they can be installed temporarily in a few minutes. The fact that they use a relay and their own dedicated power wire from the battery means that the headlight load comes off the bike's tiny wiring which improves power to other things.   When buying, make sure that the kit has a separate power wire with fuse as a few kits simply plug into the headlight alone for power to the HID. The HID draws up to 20 amps for a second or two on start, then drops to something like 14 amps for a few seconds, then down to about 5 amps for a minute or two before leveling out at 2- 2.5 amps. Some wiring harnesses and switches don't like the initial draw. I've heard of a few people who claim to have burned out a headlight or dimmer switch on their car through use of one of the kits which do not have a dedicated power supply but the people who were making the claim were not high functioning types so may have been repeating something myth they had heard. Regardless, no reason to use that type of set-up.   Another thing to consider is that the HID bulb types differ and the ones with the large bottom on the bulb will not allow the full circle headlight bulb retainer ring to pass over the bulb. These bulbs are great for headlights using a bail spring but not for the KLR. The KLR needs a bulb with a small diameter bottom. These are the bulbs which some with three adapter rings to fit the bulb to H4, Honda and "can't remember the other one".   This link shows the type of bulb I recommend for the KLR and the type of harness: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/35W-Motorcycle-Bike-Hi-Lo-Bi-Xenon-HID-Bulb-H4-H6-P15D-25-2-P43T-38-6000K-/121025981391?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2db5ebcf&vxp=mtr   I don't necessarily recommend this listing over any other. The bulbs and harnesses seem to be virtually identical from various sellers with the difference being the "ballast" and bulb color. *Note: I never use bulbs other than the 4000K (normal white) range. _