need side covers

[RobertWichert]

Hi Norm, Which HID lights have you tried?  Make and model? Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 12/15/2013 1:00 PM, Norm Keller wrote:

  This is absolutely not intended as disrespect for Jeff's post (or anyone else's). I do not agree with Jeff's position but one has only to read what he says on the subject to recognize that his opinion is worthy of attention. It is also significant to accept that the philosophical polarity of correctness does not really apply here because we lack sufficient data as to the conditions of use and experience.   By the "polarity" I refer to the: "We can't both be right but we can both be wrong."   There seems to be a committed minority who offer discouragement regarding the use of HID retrofit. It is always useful to hear various opinions as this helps people who are investigating the question and also offers perspective to those of us who may hold opinion.   That said, I disagree with most of what was offered, based on experience in personal use of HID retrofits and having installed a "bucket full" of these on many types of vehicles. I notice no significant ill effects while riding in fog and mist but take these views on advisement and will remain watchful as to significance. This is never a bad thing, IMO.   My experience has been exclusively with the 5000 K color range because other colors provide inferior lighting efficiency and the blue ones scream "these are illegal".   If one uses a higher quality ballast, the current draw when completely warmed up is often in the 2.1 or 2.2 amps range which is a decided advantage for low output electrical systems such as the stock Gen1. This "frees up" a couple of amps. for other purposes such as a set of grip heaters or heated vest and also removes the load from the bike's anemic stock wiring.   Unfortunately most opinions encountered on the net are by people who lack both applicable experience with the subject and/or the technical expertise to form useful opinions. This is why I respect Jeff's views because it seems obvious that he has both used and understands.   The best suggestion I can offer is to buy a set and try them. They are very inexpensive off the net and simple to install as temporary in order to personally evaluate.   Wishing to further expose this issue, it might be useful to reference that more yellow or more amber lighting color tends to improve the ability to see in fog or mist. I wonder if this is the basis for the less desirable experience referenced in some posts?   Hoping this does not sound argumentative as interested in hearing whether this might be an effect?   HID and LED lights tend to produce light within a much narrower spectrum than does an incandescent light, even a quartz halogen. This is one of the reasons for which they seem so much brighter when one has the light directly into one's eyes, for example.   Taking as a given that the lighting performance of the HID experienced in fog/mist was poorer, then might some of the reason be that the reduced or lack of amber/yellow light from the HID is responsible for the poorer vision? If that is the case, then selecting a lower frequency (lower K) HID bulb might be useful. If someone has an HID install and notices a difference in vision from the stock headlight, would they volunteer to EBay a yellow HID color bulb and report on the effect?   I'd be grateful as it would be interesting to have an informed impression. Swapping the bulbs is simply so it might be a very attractive summer/winter swap. I'd certainly consider trying it if were to be riding in fog or mist....maybe even carry the bulb.   That said, I tend not to ride much any more and so it might not be something useful for me, given that I don't notice a problem now.   I used to ride my previous KLR to and from our cottage, over a high mountain pass which was frequently in fog and mist. It is my impression that the Super 100/60 bulb and modified wiring produced more glare than did the original bulb but would not be prepared to support an assertion further in case it is not a valid representation of my experience. One can be so sure of what one wants to be true.   While we are hampered by the inability to directly compare experiences, it would be quite interesting for me were others willing to further explore this subject.   Again and hoping I'm clear: not throwing rocks at anyone, especially Jeff!

[Martin Earl]

Jeff K wrote:The subconscious, natural tendency of a blinded driver (especially a tired one) is to fixate on it and steer TOWARD the light. This is why so many head-ons occur on two-lane roads at night. and I immediately remembered a similar experience. A woman is looking toward the light and the results are not looking good... Imagine, you are--Somewhere in KY....it was a dark and stormy night...well it was not that stormy this night, but it always seems like it is well-digger-dark in the mountains. It is the middle of the night and I have picked up a lady at an Appalachian 'first-aid' station = community hospital, that is just dying to go for a helo ride: the entry coupon for this trip is a patient having a heart attack. Upon arrival, vitals are checked and it is reported to the nurses that the patient is stable and we should be able to medevac her to the UK hospital, Lexington, KY without further complication. cough. as if it was always that easy. Out of the zone, the lights of the small LZ are no longer visible and we are almost instantly surrounded by three things: the constant hum of the turboshaft engines generating at max torque or turbine temp = fastest possible speed, the high pitched gear noise of the Kawasaki gear box (no kidding, the main transmission is Kawasaki on the BK-1117) and the blackness of the Appalachian Mountains-- as we are winging our way towards the big-city glow on the horizon that beacons us, 'Hurry, we are waiting for you.' Sheryl Q. is the lead nurse that night and as I settle into the routine job of keeping the helo pointed towards the light as well as keeping the greasy side down. The pilot can't see the patient in the BK-117 (in some smaller helo's, the patients legs are where the copilot seat would be) but I know things are not going well by the unusual amount of body-movement and the resultant change in the center of gravity, as the nurses begin the struggle, actually a race, to save the patients life. Their movement is not dangerous, just something you notice and make small corrections in the aircraft attitude as we move along smartly. I don't say anything, but I know that things are not going well as I can feel the nurses wiggling around more frantically in the back as the patients, monitored vitals are beginning to tank. In this aircraft, the nurses hear all I say, but must push a button on a comm cord (or perhaps a floor switch) to talk to me.Occasionally, you will hear a voice in the back, especially if it is not going well. I am beginning to hear voices and the tone is urgent.My first real 'audio' clue this is going from bad to worse?I clearly hear Sheryl scream at the patient, "LOOK AWAY FROM THE LIGHT" and she has not pushed the comm button. Really? Look away from the light? I make a mental note to ask about that later, and when I do, the answer surprised me."Did it work?" telling them to look away from the light. "She arrived alive, and it made me feel better...there was nothing else left to try." If you ever need a helo ride, hope you have a nurse like Sheryl on board. She used everything in the trauma bag, and a little from experience...'look away from the light.' revmaaatin.

On Sat, Dec 14, 2013 at 1:03 PM, Jeff Khoury wrote: This is not aimed at you in particular, I just wanted to get this out there since I've been seeing a lot of posts on this in many forums. Please don't put HIDs in your bikes. Freeform reflectors are not designed for them; there's too much edge scatter. And while YOU can see better, oncoming traffic will be blinded by them because they're not properly contained. The subconscious, natural tendency of a blinded driver (especially a tired one) is to fixate on it and steer TOWARD the light. This is why so many head-ons occur on two-lane roads at night. I can't stress this enough. There's a reason why retrofitting HIDs into non-HID enclosures is illegal, whether they'll stop you for it or not. Vehicles that are designed for HIDs have focused projector lenses that contain the light better and keep it out of the eyes of oncoming traffic. -Jeff Khoury ----- Original Message ----- From: "Desert Datsuns" To: "DSN KLR650" dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Friday, December 13, 2013 4:07:14 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] "IL-Legal" head lights?? I've never heard of anyone here in AZ getting pulled over for headlights being too bright, whether that's cars or bikes. They *will* pull you over if the headlights are too blue, or you have other non-dot colored lights on the car (IE: red up front, or those dumb washer squirter lights). Ryan Newman Phoenix, AZ mark ward wrote: > > > Hey Y'ALL It was 6 degree's F. a few days ago, gotta think about > something else, AND GET READY FOR 36f+ degrees. (RIDING weather. > > While I will most likely add a set of PIAA riding lights, I was reading > ad's with Motorcycle head lights and, NON- DOT, (ILLEGAL) and wondered > how many people ever got stopped for having brighter SAFER head lights? > > State law in Mi. on trucks etc is 55watts for regular Head lights. > > BY MANY STATE'S LAW'S, a motorcycle MUST have there headlights on at ALL > times, for safety, so you would think, unless pointing the lights HIGH > into, oncoming traffics eyes, they would NOT have an issue with the > stronger bulbs. > > A standard LEGAL head-lights is 55/60 > > Higher (SAFETY) 55/100 OR 80/100 > > I'm strongly thinking of installing AT LEAST the 55/100, figuring it's > when I have NO on-coming traffic, that I need the High beams. (BACK > COUNTRY ROADS ETC.) PLUS the PIAA for off rd. > > one thought was even 1 regular PIAA AND 1 YELLOW, with a separate switch > to kill the white when riding in FOG. > > > > > > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com http://www.avg.com> > Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3658/6418 - Release Date: 12/13/13 > ------------------------------------ List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Members Map https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=212558560286766214899.0004d0fa9f1732283bb6f&msa=0&ll=38.522384,-109.489746&spn=6.831383,9.624023Yahoo Groups Links ------------------------------------ List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Members Map https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=212558560286766214899.0004d0fa9f1732283bb6f&msa=0&ll=38.522384,-109.489746&spn=6.831383,9.624023Yahoo Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/ Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/join (Yahoo! ID required) To change settings via email: DSN_KLR650-digest@yahoogroups.com DSN_KLR650-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DSN_KLR650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo Groups is subject to: http://info.yahoo.com/legal/us/yahoo/utos/terms/

[Norm Keller]

Two aspects of the dual color bulb approach appeal to me:

1) Different colors may not be automatically associated with the same vehicle so other drivers may have to move into System 2 thinking in order to explain this strange anomaly. That's a good thing!

 

2) The two colors will reflect & penetrate fog in a different manner and to different degree which should improve one's ability to see.

 

That's something I will try to play around to see if can improve my own safety.

 

Very interesting and useful platform for investigation. Thanks!

[Norm Keller]

I'm thinking that the information I can provide isn't going to be of much value because I haven't bothered with recording the specific units. (Head hanging) Here goes with what I can provide in hopes that it is useful: I have bought Some of the ones I can recall which had lower current draw had ballasts of this appearance: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/SUZUKI-KAWASAKI-YAMAHA-HONDA-MOTORCYCLE-HID-KIT-H11-/160522349509?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item255fe0abc5&vxp=mtr but not exactly of this appearance so not thinking that they are the same. I've not used or measured current for any of this ballast type although have used many of this type of bulb: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HID-KIT-Motorcycle-bi-xenon-head-light-hi-lo-dual-sport-h4-ba20d-h6m-ktm-yamaha-/370963524797?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item565f262cbd&vxp=mtr I have several of this bulb type in the garage at present as often use them in installations where there is a boot or other structure which cannot accommodate the larger based bulb: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HID-KIT-Motorcycle-bi-xenon-head-light-hi-lo-dual-sport-h4-ba20d-h6m-ktm-yamaha-/370963524797?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item565f262cbd&vxp=mtr Note that this bulb has four mounting sizes which allows use in some of the small Stanley type bulb reflectors, as well as the H4, Honda and "can't recall the name for the BA20D". I've even installed some of these into 6 volt applications with the assistance of a pair of EBay step up convertors in parallel. One feature I don't like about these bulbs is that any side pressure can shift the bulb out of engagement with the adapter plate. Manageable if one is aware. I prefer this type of bulb which uses a shutter rather than the previous type using a globe which is shifted to the side for high/low: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Motorcycle-Bike-Bi-Xenon-HID-Slim-Kit-H4-Hi-Lo-6000K-/170492679790?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27b227d66e&vxp=mtr I've bought a bunch of kits which look like these: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/35-45W-Motorcycle-Bike-HID-Hi-Low-Beam-Bi-xenon-Kit-Slim-Ballast-H4-6000K-/141060701140?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20d7df7bd4 I checked three of these which had about 4 to 4.5 amps at start and all dropped to 2.7 amps after several minutes. The remained the same over 1/2 hour so think that is the stable operating current. Voltage was 14.5 volts although haven't noticed that this makes a significant difference in current. The relay has a different label but the label on the ballast looks the same. Most of the bikes ones I have used and the three or four in the garage look the same as above excepting that the high voltage connectors are separate plugs: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/OPT7-SLIM-HID-KIT-Motorcycle-2x-H11-6000K-BRIGHT-BLUE-Light-XENON-Conversion-/121141658506?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c349b038a&vxp=mtr The label is different but ballasts appear to be the same. Here's the rub: All of this type (using 4500 to 5000 k bulbs) appear to produce identical output with the only difference being the bulb type according to mounting location. Problem is, I installed several units a couple of years ago with used metal covered ballasts from higher priced kits. These drew a bit over 4 amps at start as do all the ballasts, but dropped to 2.1 to 2.2 amps when warmed up completely. All of the above which I have measured have I have a couple of ballasts like this excepting that mine have a blue, black & yellow label with "HID BALLAST": http://www.ebay.ca/itm/35W-H6-Motorcycle-HID-High-Low-Hi-lo-beam-Xenon-Kit-Slim-Ballast-3000k-12000k-/110961637334?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item19d5d437d6 These can pulse up as high as 9 amps for a second or two on start but go to 4.5 amps and then to 3.0 to 3.1 amps for the two I checked. I prefer the other type (above) because of the lower draw. My current KLR has one of the other type ballast installed on the right side of the frame just ahead of the tank. The ballast used has no lead wire as mentioned but looks the same otherwise. If memory serves the current is the same for both types. Next time I order ballasts will order the type with the lead wire leading from the ballast as the extra length can be critical in mounting. I will look to see if can find any more information regarding the ballasts which had lower draw as will convert completely to those if can find them at a decent price. Even an extra 0.5 or 0.6 amps can make a big difference on a KLR. My 1998 will carry the HID (35 watt which is about equal to a 100 watt H4, IMO), plus grip heaters with cooling fan running, at over 13.5 volts & 3,000 RPM (approx) so all is good. I might consider installing a normally closed relay or MOSFET to control grip heaters or jacket so that the heaters are turned off while cooling fan is running. That will insure charging with minimum wiring sophistication. Not certain that this is coherent and or useful? If and when do manage to get a better ID on the higher quality ballasts, I will report. Reciprocation would be most appreciated. If this is too specific or if can help someone's decision or selection with additional information, please let me know. FWIW, I have not been flashed but anyone in months although think one driver flashed one of my bikes a year or two ago. It may have been for an unrelated reason.. Norm

----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] robert@... [b]To:[/b] normkel32@... ; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Sunday, December 15, 2013 5:06 PM [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: "IL-Legal" head lights?? Hi Norm, Which HID lights have you tried? Make and model?

[Norm Keller]

Wondering if anyone has used and of the LED H4 headlight bulbs like these off EBay?   http://www.ebay.ca/itm/310642014136?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649   I compared one with HID and H4 bulbs last evening and the light output from the LED is anemic as I expected. Some searching provided light outputs of around 3000 lumens for HID (35 Watt) and would expect the 60 Watt H4 incandescent to be similar.   The LED are supposedly rated at around 550 lumens which would reflect the impression I formed. FWIW, I understand that lighting is not a proportional issue.   The LED bulb was purchased for interest as part of another project but thought to add it to the mix and to request information from others.   I do notice that it is very voltage sensitive in terms of output as KOEO at about 12.5 volts produces very little light but at 14.5 volts the output is significantly greater.   The project involves an older Honda CT110 which has a 6 volt system of low output. The headlight on these old girls is a "Stanley type" in which an incandescent bulb is permanently soldered into the reflector. This produces a poor output which is compensated for by the expensive price of replacement.   Aftermarket reflectors using inexpensive replaceable bulbs are a popular replacement but hoping to further improve. Three options identified to date which will be tested one of these days:   1) Use replacement reflector with inexpensive incandescent bulb which the electrical system will carry. 2) Modify the H4 LED bulb to fit the replacement reflector. Power draw for the LED is about 0.4 amps at 14.5 volts. 3) Install an HID into the replacement reflector. Draw is about 2.7 amps at 14.5 volts.   Since the CT110 has a 6 volt system and option #2 & #3 require "12 volt" components so a pair of step up power convertors can be used in parallel to supply the HID. Draw is just under 6 amps at 7.4 volts but will power at 6 volts at a similar current. Not certain whether the CT110 will sustain the load until we try.   While this is off the KLR subject, this is the winter so thought someone might be interested in the "Why?" of the LED.   Norm

[Martin Earl]

Norm wrote: I might consider installing a normally closed relay or MOSFET to control grip heaters or jacket so that the heaters are turned off while cooling fan is running. That will insure charging with minimum wiring sophistication. Not certain that this is coherent and or useful? In my 'limited' 10 years of KLR experience, I don't believe this will be a problem...having to push the fan (searching for spare amps) AND grip heaters at the same time; especially if the bike does not have a thermobob. IMO it is doubtful the fan will ever come on while you are at an OAT where grip heaters are useful. shrug. Nevertheless, as always, Norm has a neat, well thought out concept. grin. revmaaatin.

On Mon, Dec 16, 2013 at 10:29 AM, Norm Keller wrote: [u][/u] I'm thinking that the information I can provide isn't going to be of much value because I haven't bothered with recording the specific units. (Head hanging) Here goes with what I can provide in hopes that it is useful: I have bought Some of the ones I can recall which had lower current draw had ballasts of this appearance: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/SUZUKI-KAWASAKI-YAMAHA-HONDA-MOTORCYCLE-HID-KIT-H11-/160522349509?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item255fe0abc5&vxp=mtr but not exactly of this appearance so not thinking that they are the same. I've not used or measured current for any of this ballast type although have used many of this type of bulb: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HID-KIT-Motorcycle-bi-xenon-head-light-hi-lo-dual-sport-h4-ba20d-h6m-ktm-yamaha-/370963524797?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item565f262cbd&vxp=mtr I have several of this bulb type in the garage at present as often use them in installations where there is a boot or other structure which cannot accommodate the larger based bulb: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HID-KIT-Motorcycle-bi-xenon-head-light-hi-lo-dual-sport-h4-ba20d-h6m-ktm-yamaha-/370963524797?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item565f262cbd&vxp=mtr Note that this bulb has four mounting sizes which allows use in some of the small Stanley type bulb reflectors, as well as the H4, Honda and "can't recall the name for the BA20D". I've even installed some of these into 6 volt applications with the assistance of a pair of EBay step up convertors in parallel. One feature I don't like about these bulbs is that any side pressure can shift the bulb out of engagement with the adapter plate. Manageable if one is aware. I prefer this type of bulb which uses a shutter rather than the previous type using a globe which is shifted to the side for high/low: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Motorcycle-Bike-Bi-Xenon-HID-Slim-Kit-H4-Hi-Lo-6000K-/170492679790?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27b227d66e&vxp=mtr I've bought a bunch of kits which look like these: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/35-45W-Motorcycle-Bike-HID-Hi-Low-Beam-Bi-xenon-Kit-Slim-Ballast-H4-6000K-/141060701140?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20d7df7bd4 I checked three of these which had about 4 to 4.5 amps at start and all dropped to 2.7 amps after several minutes. The remained the same over 1/2 hour so think that is the stable operating current. Voltage was 14.5 volts although haven't noticed that this makes a significant difference in current. The relay has a different label but the label on the ballast looks the same. Most of the bikes ones I have used and the three or four in the garage look the same as above excepting that the high voltage connectors are separate plugs: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/OPT7-SLIM-HID-KIT-Motorcycle-2x-H11-6000K-BRIGHT-BLUE-Light-XENON-Conversion-/121141658506?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c349b038a&vxp=mtr The label is different but ballasts appear to be the same. Here's the rub: All of this type (using 4500 to 5000 k bulbs) appear to produce identical output with the only difference being the bulb type according to mounting location. Problem is, I installed several units a couple of years ago with used metal covered ballasts from higher priced kits. These drew a bit over 4 amps at start as do all the ballasts, but dropped to 2.1 to 2.2 amps when warmed up completely. All of the above which I have measured have I have a couple of ballasts like this excepting that mine have a blue, black & yellow label with "HID BALLAST": http://www.ebay.ca/itm/35W-H6-Motorcycle-HID-High-Low-Hi-lo-beam-Xenon-Kit-Slim-Ballast-3000k-12000k-/110961637334?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item19d5d437d6 These can pulse up as high as 9 amps for a second or two on start but go to 4.5 amps and then to 3.0 to 3.1 amps for the two I checked. I prefer the other type (above) because of the lower draw. My current KLR has one of the other type ballast installed on the right side of the frame just ahead of the tank. The ballast used has no lead wire as mentioned but looks the same otherwise. If memory serves the current is the same for both types. Next time I order ballasts will order the type with the lead wire leading from the ballast as the extra length can be critical in mounting. I will look to see if can find any more information regarding the ballasts which had lower draw as will convert completely to those if can find them at a decent price. Even an extra 0.5 or 0.6 amps can make a big difference on a KLR. My 1998 will carry the HID (35 watt which is about equal to a 100 watt H4, IMO), plus grip heaters with cooling fan running, at over 13.5 volts & 3,000 RPM (approx) so all is good. I might consider installing a normally closed relay or MOSFET to control grip heaters or jacket so that the heaters are turned off while cooling fan is running. That will insure charging with minimum wiring sophistication. Not certain that this is coherent and or useful? If and when do manage to get a better ID on the higher quality ballasts, I will report. Reciprocation would be most appreciated. If this is too specific or if can help someone's decision or selection with additional information, please let me know. FWIW, I have not been flashed but anyone in months although think one driver flashed one of my bikes a year or two ago. It may have been for an unrelated reason.. Norm ----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] robert@... [b]To:[/b] normkel32@... ; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Sunday, December 15, 2013 5:06 PM [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: "IL-Legal" head lights?? Hi Norm, Which HID lights have you tried? Make and model?

[Stu Mitchell]

Hey,

 

I’m trying the HI[b][u]R[/u][/b] headlight.  Same electrical draw but greater illumination – and the color band improves road markers and contrast at night.  Bulb doesn’t get unnecessarily hot.  They are known in Europe,

 

That said, I’m always wondering why they are not more popular.  So, I keep waiting for the proverbial shoe too fall…

 

Thanks

 

[b][i]Stu[/i][/b]

[b][i]o&>o[/i][/b]

[b]  ~~~~~[/b][b][i]/)[/i][/b][b]~~~~~[/b]

 

[b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]Norm Keller [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, December 17, 2013 4:10 PM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: "IL-Legal" head lights??

 

 

Wondering if anyone has used and of the LED H4 headlight bulbs like these off EBay?

 

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/310642014136?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

 

I compared one with HID and H4 bulbs last evening and the light output from the LED is anemic as I expected. Some searching provided light outputs of around 3000 lumens for HID (35 Watt) and would expect the 60 Watt H4 incandescent to be similar.

 

The LED are supposedly rated at around 550 lumens which would reflect the impression I formed. FWIW, I understand that lighting is not a proportional issue.

 

The LED bulb was purchased for interest as part of another project but thought to add it to the mix and to request information from others.

 

I do notice that it is very voltage sensitive in terms of output as KOEO at about 12.5 volts produces very little light but at 14.5 volts the output is significantly greater.

 

The project involves an older Honda CT110 which has a 6 volt system of low output. The headlight on these old girls is a "Stanley type" in which an incandescent bulb is permanently soldered into the reflector. This produces a poor output which is compensated for by the expensive price of replacement.

 

Aftermarket reflectors using inexpensive replaceable bulbs are a popular replacement but hoping to further improve. Three options identified to date which will be tested one of these days:

 

1) Use replacement reflector with inexpensive incandescent bulb which the electrical system will carry.

2) Modify the H4 LED bulb to fit the replacement reflector. Power draw for the LED is about 0.4 amps at 14.5 volts.

3) Install an HID into the replacement reflector. Draw is about 2.7 amps at 14.5 volts.

 

Since the CT110 has a 6 volt system and option #2 & #3 require "12 volt" components so a pair of step up power convertors can be used in parallel to supply the HID. Draw is just under 6 amps at 7.4 volts but will power at 6 volts at a similar current. Not certain whether the CT110 will sustain the load until we try.

 

While this is off the KLR subject, this is the winter so thought someone might be interested in the "Why?" of the LED.

 

Norm

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[Norm Keller]

Stu, are your HIR, like these?   http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2pcs-H4-P43T-12V-100-90W-White-HIR-Xenon-Head-Light-Fog-Lamp-Bulb-for-Auto-Car-/380758458198?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58a6f8ff56&vxp=mtr     I haven't played with these but have been tempted to order some for interest. Any other observations at all? Have you measured draw?

[Stu Mitchell]

HALOGEN INFRARED REFLECTING BULB Works 87-07 KLR650s http://klr650.com/HIRBulb.jpgHalogen Infrared Reflecting Bulb Price $ 22.19 Halogen Infrared Reflecting Bulb H-4 Applications New Infrared Technology 4200 Kelvin Only uses 35 watts but brighter than stock Reflects the road markings and signs better. Less eye fatigue WARNING: DO NOT LOOK AT BULB WITH NAKED EYE Halogen Infrared Reflecting Bulb Price $22.19 each 201-0146 Top of Form Bottom of Form Top of Form Bottom of Form It s a legit technology and it ain t kidding you ll see spots if you look at the headlight within 10 . Yeah, telling me not to look virtually guarantees that I will. But for oncoming cars, it is not so bright that it creates an issue for them like 100w HiBeams I don t have any metrics for longevity or durability (not sensitive to vibration/shock) but so far so good. As far as draw I have not put a meter on it and I am in the process of upgrading my stator for other reasons, but I m inclined to agree with the demands claim as it is consistent with other sources on the internet. After I put the new stator in, I am going to benchmark and catalog draw for all standard accessories, so I will know how much I have to play with. Stu o&>o ~~~~~/)~~~~~ It takes a lot of courage to release the familiar and seemingly secure, to embrace the new. But there is no real security in what is no longer meaningful. There is more security in the adventurous and exciting, for in movement there is life, and in change there is power. From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Norm Keller Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 10:45 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: "IL-Legal" head lights?? Stu, are your HIR, like these? http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2pcs-H4-P43T-12V-100-90W-White-HIR-Xenon-Head-Light-F og-Lamp-Bulb-for-Auto-Car-/380758458198?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessorie s http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2pcs-H4-P43T-12V-100-90W-White-HIR-Xenon-Head-Light- Fog-Lamp-Bulb-for-Auto-Car-/380758458198?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessori es&hash=item58a6f8ff56&vxp=mtr> &hash=item58a6f8ff56&vxp=mtr I haven't played with these but have been tempted to order some for interest. Any other observations at all? Have you measured draw? --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Ron Haraseth]

pool lights Mounting strap aluminum. Using the stock fairing bolts. EBAY source $8 each LED w/thick projector lens. 10 watt. The mounting bracket they supply is not the best thus my own version. They are rather weather proof as you might imagine. They do not have and electronic control internal so work well with a PWM dimmer, BUT they do have a high wattage resistor internal which should be glued down so that the wires don t break. You can unscrew the units to access the resistor. Very rugged properly mounted. (I ve thoroughly test that aspect) Good for day notice and do add to the night use. Ron From: Stu Mitchell Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2014 12:10 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Bulk] Re: [Bulk] RE: [DSN_KLR650] Re: "IL-Legal" head lights?? Slight claim jumping of this thread. but it's still about lights. But what are some good driving/fog lights that don't require two checks (first one ain't big enough).. to purchase. I want to find a pair of lights I could mount either on the fairing or on my engine guards to get extra visibility for me on the road at night vs just a pair of lights to help me be more visible to others. Thanks Shellon & Stu ~~~~~/)~~~~~ "Life is short, break the rules, forgive quickly, kiss slowly, love truly, laugh uncontrollably, and never regret anything that made you smile. Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." -Mark Twain From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of RobertWichert Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2014 1:44 PM To: Norm Keller; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Bulk] Re: [Bulk] RE: [DSN_KLR650] Re: "IL-Legal" head lights?? From what I have read on HID, there are more aiming issues than with this Plug-And-Play LED option. Also, if it burns out it would appear that you could go back to stock by the side of the road if you had a spare bulb. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 1/9/2014 10:36 AM, Norm Keller wrote: I've been installing H4 HID kits off EBay for several years. These cost $30-$35.00 and have a 2 amp to 2.3 amp draw when fully "warmed up" so after a few minutes. I am also playing with improving lighting on some Honda CT90/CT110 bikes and have another LED H4 bulb on order. This bulb has about 600 Lumens output but only draws 0.4 amps. Not of interest for a KLR but looks like it might be a significant improvement for the CT's. Stepping power from 6 volts to 12 volts (14.6) is doable inexpensively for currents up to 4 or 5 amps to holding that as the limit right now. The problem I see regarding this LED set-up is that it costs 2x to 3x what I can buy a standard, off the shelf HID kit. If the HID bulb or ballast quits, spares are fairly common in stores so unlikely to be stuck for either parts or trouble shooting. The LED would seem to be unique. Interesting to hear your impressions if you do try but not on my radar as don't see the advantage over HID. HIH Norm "We've got no money so we've got to think." Ernest Rutherford the father of nuclear physics. --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]