the $800 klr for sale (amusement)

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Stu Mitchell
Posts: 22
Joined: Thu Sep 12, 2013 11:02 am

changed to upper subframe bolt rant

Post by Stu Mitchell » Sun Dec 22, 2013 7:10 pm

Murphy is a close personal friend of mine and, in fact, lives next door. We even exchange gifts each year….

 

Project - Drill out upper subframe and replace with one continuous bolt

Resource - Kit from Eagle Mike

Challenge - one bolt head already sheared off

 

So, I’m down in the garage, working on the bike by drilling out the remnants of the stock bolt that held the upper frame together on the port side.

 

Flashbacks of the movie Armaggedon w/Bruce Willis et al where they are trying to drill through solid iron core to save the earth plague me. “Aha success!”, after three drill bits, I finally have a hole drilled. Brand new DeWalt ‘ drill just bought for this project comes through and we’re in.

 

So, in goes the extractor bit. No problem here – dang can’t find the stupid T-handle for extractor bits. But hey, I use that thing so infrequently, I’m not surprised it’s gone. I may have loaned it out, left it somewhere, rat may have walked off with it - who knows…. But the end of the extractor is a square end so I can get something on it – or I’ll just go get another handle – but those handles really don’t provide much grip or leverage anyway.

 

So, ever so carefully I am trying to unscrew the bolt with the extractor. I am using a crescent wrench (the jaws go to 0) to turn the extractor. When suddenly, “sproing”… the extractor is now broken off in the hole drilled.

 

“Hey Murph – Merry Christmas – Thanks!!”

 

So open to suggestions to get an extractor out or drill through it or burn the bike to the ground and say “to Hell with it…”

 

I’ve been able to drill through from the other side with Eagle Mike’s “warm-up” bit. I just don’t see going through all that solid steel with anything short of a laser.

 

 

[b][i]Stu[/i][/b]

[b][i]o&>o[/i][/b]

[b]  ~~~~~[/b][b][i]/)[/i][/b][b]~~~~~[/b]

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jet_doctor2002
Posts: 21
Joined: Thu Sep 12, 2013 9:56 am

changed to upper subframe bolt rant

Post by jet_doctor2002 » Mon Dec 23, 2013 9:28 am

You need to find a carbide drill bit that is the size of the extractor.  It will drill through the broken extractor like any other steel.  MSC, Amazon, Enco, Ebay will have them.  You can also try your local machine shop.  I keep a couple around to fix oops's. If you are lucky, you also might be able to spread the frame and get a cutoff wheel in there to cut off the bolt flush and with the subframe out of the way have less to drill through.  If you are going to drill it out, there is no real reason to extract it. Good luck, Doug
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Norm Keller
Posts: 712
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 7:48 am

changed to upper subframe bolt rant

Post by Norm Keller » Mon Dec 23, 2013 11:16 am

A broken extractor always adds that garnish to an almost perfect masterpiece! It's like that sprig of parsley on the salad. Not what you wanted, hard to swallow but has to be removed before you can get started. ;)   What shape of easy-out have you used? If a square tapered one, they can sometimes be worked out but if a spiral, that's more fun. I have carbide drill bits (Garr 1500 series) which will drill holes in a file or easy-out so might consider that if a round one. If you have oxy-acetylene, use a small tip, crank the oxygen pressure up quite high, adjust to a neutral flame and heat the extractor to red. When it's red, crank the oxygen knob open and the extractor will burn to nothing in a second.   Likely, the wrench encouraged just enough bending in addition to turning to snap the extractor.   Another is to tack a rod onto the extractor which will loosen the extractor, then use the rod to slide hammer the extractor out. A couple of light taps is all which is usually needed.   Drilling from the other side and using a punch is a certain method....   Otherwise you might try butane or propane to see if you can get the extractor hot enough (red) to draw the temper then use conventional drill bit and lots of lube to drill out. If it's a square or spiral square, you might be lucky but if one of the round ones with fine splines, "rots-a-ruck" unless you have oxy. Then, may as well burn it out.   This is the subframe bolt right? If so, why not drill through and install a through bolt? That used to be the formula but maybe the thinking has changed?   Keeping fingers crossed on your behalf. Wish you were closer as would like to offer some help.   Norm     Stu posted: "Murphy is a close personal friend of mine and, in fact, lives next door. We even exchange gifts each year . Project - Drill out upper sub frame and replace with one continuous bolt Resource - Kit from Eagle Mike Challenge - one bolt head already sheared off So, I m down in the garage, working on the bike by drilling out the remnants of the stock bolt that held the upper frame together on the port side. Flashbacks of the movie Armaggedon w/Bruce Willis et al where they are trying to drill through solid iron core to save the earth plague me. Aha success! , after three drill bits, I finally have a hole drilled. Brand new DeWalt drill just bought for this project comes through and we re in. So, in goes the extractor bit. No problem here dang can t find the stupid T-handle for extractor bits. But hey, I use that thing so infrequently, I m not surprised it s gone. I may have loaned it out, left it somewhere, rat may have walked off with it - who knows . But the end of the extractor is a square end so I can get something on it or I ll just go get another handle but those handles really don t provide much grip or leverage anyway. So, ever so carefully I am trying to unscrew the bolt with the extractor. I am using a crescent wrench (the jaws go to 0) to turn the extractor. When suddenly, sproing the extractor is now broken off in the hole drilled. Hey Murph Merry Christmas Thanks!! So open to suggestions to get an extractor out or drill through it or burn the bike to the ground and say to Hell with it I ve been able to drill through from the other side with Eagle Mike s warm-up bit. I just don t see going through all that solid steel with anything short of a laser. Stu o&>o ~~~~~/)~~~~~ ---"     PRIVACY PROTECTION If you plan to forward this, please remove all e-mail addresses. Also please use the BCC option when forwarding to more than one person.
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Stu Mitchell
Posts: 22
Joined: Thu Sep 12, 2013 11:02 am

changed to upper subframe bolt rant

Post by Stu Mitchell » Mon Dec 23, 2013 12:03 pm

Last first – that is the goal of this exercise – to replace the two stock bolts with a through bolt. Yes, SubFrame up by where the gas tanks bolts down. DPO had sheared the head off of one of the bolts. He may not have known – so I’m not accusing him of hiding it and I didn’t know to check for it at the time… After buying the first one of these jewels, you become an expert at buying the next.

 

I used an Irwin spiral screw extractor…. And several bits….

 

I don’t have any oxy torches – just the cheapie propane bottle and screw on torch setup.

 

I am going to try to find some carbide bits at the local Home Despots and Low’s (intentional misspell).

 

Excellent metaphor…!!

 

Thanks for the moral support and suggestions!

 

[b][i]Stu[/i][/b]

[b][i]o&>o[/i][/b]

 

[b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]Norm Keller [b]Sent:[/b] Monday, December 23, 2013 12:16 PM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: changed to upper subframe bolt rant

 

 

A broken extractor always adds that garnish to an almost perfect masterpiece! It's like that sprig of parsley on the salad. Not what you wanted, hard to swallow but has to be removed before you can get started. ;)

 

What shape of easy-out have you used? If a square tapered one, they can sometimes be worked out but if a spiral, that's more fun. I have carbide drill bits (Garr 1500 series) which will drill holes in a file or easy-out so might consider that if a round one. If you have oxy-acetylene, use a small tip, crank the oxygen pressure up quite high, adjust to a neutral flame and heat the extractor to red. When it's red, crank the oxygen knob open and the extractor will burn to nothing in a second.

 

Likely, the wrench encouraged just enough bending in addition to turning to snap the extractor.

 

Another is to tack a rod onto the extractor which will loosen the extractor, then use the rod to slide hammer the extractor out. A couple of light taps is all which is usually needed.

 

Drilling from the other side and using a punch is a certain method....

 

Otherwise you might try butane or propane to see if you can get the extractor hot enough (red) to draw the temper then use conventional drill bit and lots of lube to drill out. If it's a square or spiral square, you might be lucky but if one of the round ones with fine splines, "rots-a-ruck" unless you have oxy. Then, may as well burn it out.

 

This is the subframe bolt right? If so, why not drill through and install a through bolt? That used to be the formula but maybe the thinking has changed?

 

Keeping fingers crossed on your behalf. Wish you were closer as would like to offer some help.

 

Norm

 

 

Stu posted:

"Murphy is a close personal friend of mine and, in fact, lives next door. We even exchange gifts each year…. Project - Drill out upper sub frame and replace with one continuous bolt Resource - Kit from Eagle Mike Challenge - one bolt head already sheared off So, I’m down in the garage, working on the bike by drilling out the remnants of the stock bolt that held the upper frame together on the port side. Flashbacks of the movie Armaggedon w/Bruce Willis et al where they are trying to drill through solid iron core to save the earth plague me. “Aha success!”, after three drill bits, I finally have a hole drilled. Brand new DeWalt ‘ drill just bought for this project comes through and we’re in. So, in goes the extractor bit. No problem here – dang can’t find the stupid T-handle for extractor bits. But hey, I use that thing so infrequently, I’m not surprised it’s gone. I may have loaned it out, left it somewhere, rat may have walked off with it - who knows…. But the end of the extractor is a square end so I can get something on it – or I’ll just go get another handle – but those handles really don’t provide much grip or leverage anyway. So, ever so carefully I am trying to unscrew the bolt with the extractor. I am using a crescent wrench (the jaws go to 0) to turn the extractor. When suddenly, “sproing”… the extractor is now broken off in the hole drilled. “Hey Murph – Merry Christmas – Thanks!!” So open to suggestions to get an extractor out or drill through it or burn the bike to the ground and say “to Hell with it…” I’ve been able to drill through from the other side with Eagle Mike’s “warm-up” bit. I just don’t see going through all that solid steel with anything short of a laser. Stu o&>o ~~~~~/)~~~~~ ---"

 

 

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James W. Flower
Posts: 198
Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2006 9:36 pm

changed to upper subframe bolt rant

Post by James W. Flower » Mon Dec 23, 2013 1:10 pm

I forget the diameter of the subframe bolt, but could the right bit in a Dremel tool grind away enough of the bolt to get some needle-nose Visegrips on the extractor? How about a metal bladed hole saw of just the right diameter? Dynamite?
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Pete Blaszcak
Posts: 8
Joined: Mon Apr 08, 2013 7:27 pm

changed to upper subframe bolt rant

Post by Pete Blaszcak » Mon Dec 23, 2013 1:29 pm