scrubba (clean cloths on trips)

[Bogdan Swider]

OK .Awhile ago I used to spend a month, straight, out of every year living out of a tent in remote desert areas. In those circumstances something like Scrubba would make sense. Now, like most of you, I'm an occasional camper. Given the cost of this gizmo and the hassle, I think it would make more sense to go to Walmart, or wherever, and buy a few changes of underwear/socks. When your first layer reaches it's best used by date, toss all into the campfire and open a few packages. Bogdan, who usually uses things forever like klr with 82k miles and thus screws up the economy. From: mark ward Reply-To: mark ward Date: Tuesday, December 3, 2013 7:43 PM To: List KLR DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Scrubba (Clean cloths on trips)   Hey Ya'll   Like ANOUTHER Oil thread, LOL the topic of how many WEEKS can we wear our underwear.   I just seen a "new" Product called Scrubba.   It's basicly a roll top DRY BAG, with bumps inside to act as a washboard.   Put in your socks and Undies (after 4-7 days of course) Add water & soap, Push out extra air, seal and start rolling / rubbing (on table ground etc)   So with ALOT LESS WATER, (at a camp site it MATTERS) you SCRUBBA your cloths, BEFORE they get CRISPY.   I figure, ALSO, use it as a dirty cloths bag until ready. (KEEP THE STINK OUT OF "Clean-ER" (lol) cloths.   PRICEY at $65. but a good roll top "dry bag", is about $35., so another $30. for a campsite panties washer. (I'm sure the price will drop some as more places sell it.)

[normkel2000]

I did a web search for dimensions for the shifter shaft oil seal: Kawasaki 92050-082 with no luck so thought it might be useful to someone. ID- 13 mm OD- 25 mm Width- 7mm Someone in another group was asking about changing the seal and received various bits of advice including that it is necessary to remove the shifter shaft to change the seal. Not true of any motorcycle I can recall! The KLR shifter seal, and just changed another of many, just pops out of the case bore with little effort. It's about a 5 minute job including remove and replace the shift lever. I use a Mac Tools seal puller because it will pull a seal often without damaging the seal. One could pry the seal out with a small screwdriver if inclined so long as one takes care not to nick the shaft. A slide hammer seal puller will also work but is over-kill, IMO. Perhaps this belongs in a part number sticky but if so I apologize as haven't noticed one.

[Michael Burwell]

Swiss army knife or other corkscrew works great for pulling them. Michael Sent from my iPad

[John Biccum]

I've changed a few of few of these  seals at tech days and it is truly just a five-minute job.  I use a dental scaling tool to remove the old seal and use an appropriate-sized socket as a seal driver to drive in the new seal. I've also noted that many of the bikes with leaking seals had much too-tight drive chains, leading me to suspect that the most common cause for the seal leaking is chain maladjustment. No reason to remove the shift SHAFT but the shift LEVER needs to be removed to gain access to the seal. I scribe across the end of the shift shaft and shift lever before removing the shifter so I can match up the scribe marks  when reinstalling the shift lever.  Scribing saves  futzing around with the shift lever to get the shifter back to its prefered position. From: normkel32@... Sent: 12/ 4/ 2013 18:37 To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Shift shaft oil seal dimensions  

I did a web search for dimensions for the shifter shaft oil seal: Kawasaki 92050-082 with no luck so thought it might be useful to someone. ID- 13 mm OD- 25 mm Width- 7mm Someone in another group was asking about changing the seal and received various bits of advice including that it is necessary to remove the shifter shaft to change the seal. Not true of any motorcycle I can recall! The KLR shifter seal, and just changed another of many, just pops out of the case bore with little effort. It's about a 5 minute job including remove and replace the shift lever. I use a Mac Tools seal puller because it will pull a seal often without damaging the seal. One could pry the seal out with a small screwdriver if inclined so long as one takes care not to nick the shaft. A slide hammer seal puller will also work but is over-kill, IMO. Perhaps this belongs in a part number sticky but if so I apologize as haven't noticed one. [The entire original message is not included.]

[Norm Keller]

Many of these rubber coated seals are easy to pry out but substitute a metal shelled one without rubber coating. Quite a different proposition.  :)

 

John's mention of chain adjustment identifies a very critical issue which is often overlooked until some catastrophic failure intervenes. When the chain is over tightened, it comes into tension when the swing arm reaches the top of travel. Combine the leverage with the loading of rider weight and inertia and one has a powerful force pulling rearward against the sprocket shaft. The loading is sometimes high enough to break the transmission casting. This is a very sad event when it occurs!

 

Make certain that your chain is not over tightened.