----- Original Message ----- From: eddiebmauri@... To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, December 1, 2013 5:57:29 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Speedometer Woes.......... OK, a few weeks ago my speedometer's needle started to twitch a little. It would not hold steady and would bounce a little. Now the needle is completely dead - at any speed! So, based on this little bit of info, what do you all guess? Bad cable? What and where should I start? Eddie
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Dooden" wrote: > > Ya what Fred is telling ya.. ya I know should read posts before replying.. > > Beer, it does a body good. > > Dooden > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hink" wrote: > > > > Stu, > > > > Just a little back ground about me. I have been online and dealing with the KLR since it was a relatively new model. I have become jaded about what I read online about most things. I don t take one persons opinions as gospel . I look for trends over a long period, usually years before I try to make up my mind about something unless I am able to test my theory's in person. Finding out what works best for you is best done by doing your own testing. It sounds to me that you may have a few small issues with your KLR that could easily be fixed and not cost you much. Don t get me wrong, I am in the business of selling motorcycle parts and would be glad to see you spend your money but if you are not fixing your problem or spending your money needlessly then that becomes an issue with me. > > > > I ll bet you that your problem with your front end would be fixed by loosening the upper (or lower) triple clamp bolts and moving your handlebars to a straight position before retightening your bolts. It takes a pretty big wreck to actually bend your fork legs. What usually happens in a wreck is your handlebars gets banged up against the steering stops and the front wheel continues slightly to twist the fork legs in the triple clamps. This moves the handlebars out of line and it seems the front end is damaged. Not really damaged but just straighten the forks in the triple clamps and you should be good to go. I loosen the upper triple clamp bolts, stand in front of your bike with the front wheel between your legs and move the handlebars back to straight. Be sure to retighten the triple clamp bolts. You can check your fork legs on the bike by loosening one fork leg both upper and lower triple clamp bolts and turning the fork leg. If the lower part of this leg moves front to back or has any movement, then the fork leg is bent. You can straighten a slightly bent fork leg in a hydraulic press but if the leg is very bent and the chrome is cracked it will need to be replaced. > > > > My recommendation to you is to get the bike so that you can ride it and listen to what your bike is telling you. Get some miles under you before making any changes. I wouldn t pay too much attention to what you read online until you get a good feel of what your KLR is about and then decide what improvements you would like to make. Your KLR is a great teacher, just be patient and you will learn. I too have had a there may not be a tomorrow experience, so I understand completely. > > > > Fred > > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > > > > > > > > From: Stu Mitchell > > Sent: Monday, December 02, 2013 10:43 AM > > To: 'Fred Hink' ; 'DSN KLR650' > > Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Handlebars and grip > > > > > > > > Hey Fred, > > > > > > Thanks for the reply > > > > > > I could care less about bling It s just that there are strong beliefs about certain upgrades by folks " both vendors and owners " that I, as the neophyte, just have to try to muddle through and then discern which is appropriate and valid or just personal. As I mentioned the PO had bent some stuff " not bad, but my front end is a little crooked , but enough that I was probably gonna replace the handlebars at least. On the triple clamps - a good case is made that the engineering of the 45 degree back handlebar attach points on the factory triple clamp was more like steering a wheelbarrow full of mercury compared to the New improved triple clamps. I haven t ridden enough different bikes recently to compare steering overall and I have only had/ridden my KLR 650 for a month or so " but she did feel off as much because the handlebar point slightly to the right when the bike is going straight. > > > > > > The PO was also not exactly what one would call a maintenance freak . I have spent much of my honeymoon time with my new best friend with fix, replace or change something , then ride as weather allows " rinse and repeat. So I don t have any real baseline yet. > > > > > > The last bike I rode had drum brakes and the shifter was on the other side an old Triumph Bonneville and that was over a quarter of a century ago. > > > > > > I don t plan on doing technical MX riding " more like fire roads, loggin roads, fire service roads, when not on paved roads. The handlebars I received are very similar to stock " not as straight as pure MX and I was gonna lay them back some as well. But I did expect that when I was off pavement, that extra edge of the clamps and bars may come in handy - just speculation. They say more control and feedback " you say big bumps will make them move more I don t know what a big bump is " a rut in the road or trying to negotiate a rock strewn hill with significant outcroppings. That s where I don t know the relative impact of certain descriptive metrics. > > > > > > So, I was taking it on faith that this upgrade would address any inherent design shortcomings and provide an easier ride " even on the highways. Remember, I am just trying to figure this stuff out " I m agnostic about the clamp and handlebars, and if there is a better solution/approach (see Thermo-Hickey, Doo-Bob), then I m all for it " if it s just bling , as you suggest " then I ll pass. Heck, I d go buy OEM handlebars if that s gonna work for me. All that said " if there is a compelling technical reason move forward on a different path I can take to straighten out my front end and save some money I m all for it. Please advise with specifics. If you re trying to say " just loosen the main nut and straighten things out as best as possible " that s the approach I was originally gonna take " lots of trial and error and no science to it just how does that feel > > > > > > Don t misunderstand, I really do appreciate the feedback and the opposing view " I am a form follows function person. And I can return the clamps/handlebar tomorrow if I have a plan to straighten out front end that doesn t call for them. I don t have stock in the company and I could care less about unnecessary flash I m too old and crochety to try to impress anyone anymore. I had a medical adventure that reminded me about things like not dying with regrets or putting off until tomorrow " there may not be a tomorrow . I just want to get the bike right - in relatively short order. Then get some miles getting used to the nuances, then ride her anywhere I want and for as long as I want. This is also why I like the KLR though " there are many options to dial in the bike. > > > > > > Additionally, I have read where many people say the OEM grips will numb your hands after prolonged highway travel " if that s true, I don t want to go back with my original grips. If I am gonna change grips, now would be the time. I have been looking at the Oxford heated grips. I have an upgraded stator ready to go in to accommodate accessories (GPC, lighting, MAYBE heated grips). BUT, I m not completely sold on the concept of heated grips " I ve also never had them. > > > > > > On the Thermo-Hickey and Doo-Bob " I read and YouTube d everything available and I don t have any questions yet J > > > > > > Sorry - for the diatribe, as I really do appreciate the comments and I recognize that this triple clamp upgrade would change the personality my old girl I m sure. Bad or good " I don t know. It s also not something I want to do twice " and nothing has been started yet. I saved the boxes and I can return them, but I would be back to where I was w/o them " no real solution for dialing in the front end. > > > > > > That $250.00 bucks for the clamp/handlebar is half a rear shock " which may be more significant an improvement. > > > > > > Thanks all > > > > > > Stu > > > > o&>o > > > > ~~~~~/)~~~~~ > > > > It takes a lot of courage to release the familiar and seemingly secure, to embrace the new. But there is no real security in what is no longer meaningful. There is more security in the adventurous and exciting, for in movement there is life, and in change there is power. Alan Cohen > > > > > > From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hink > > Sent: Monday, December 02, 2013 9:36 AM > > To: 'DSN KLR650'; Stu Mitchell > > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Handlebars and grip > > > > > > > > > > If all you are after is replacing the stock steel handlebars to a bulge type of handlebar, there are several much cheaper ways to do this and you don t have to replace the Triple Clamps. I m a firm believer in the bulge type handlebars, like the ones that ProTaper originated. The aluminum will help absorb some vibration and the design of the handlebars without the crossbar will allow the handlebars to flex some to give a much more comfortable ride. One disadvantage with going to the larger diameter handlebars is that they are not offered in a bend similar to what the KLR uses. They were designed for MX bikes that use a much more straight handlebar without the big pull-back that the KLR has. Given that they are still more comfortable if you are riding off road or riding while standing as they will move considerably when hitting big bumps. If you are needing rubber mounted handlebars, there are several other options besides replacing the triple clamps. Unless you are just wanting the bling factor, replacing triple clamps usually create as many problems as they fix. > > > > > > Removing aftermarket grips is pretty easy as Mark said, use compressed air. If you are wanting to remove the stock OEM grips and reuse them, good luck. The throttle side can be removed with compressed air but the clutch side is usually bonded in a way that the only way to remove them is with a knife in pieces. The ProGrip gel grips in several grip configurations have been popular on the KLR for a long time now. Depending on if you need more grip or more comfort, the ProGrip gel grip makes a grip for you. The throttle tube comes off pretty easily. Two screws loosen the throttle housing and then it all comes apart. Just be sure to reinstall everything like it comes apart. There are aftermarket throttle tubes that are made out of aluminum with bearings to make the throttle work smoother. > > > > > > Since you didn t ask for advice about your Thermo-Hickey and the Doo-Bob job, none will be given. > > > > > > If you have any other concerns about your bike, let us know. > > > > > > Fred > > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > > > > > > > > > > From: Stu Mitchell > > > > Sent: Sunday, December 1, 2013 8:41 PM > > > > To: 'DSN KLR650' > > > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Handlebars and grip > > > > > > > > > > Hey all, > > > > Bike " new KLR 650 owner - 2002 vintage " low miles > > > > Me " ok with tools, ok with intuition, Murphy lives next door and I m prone to occasional bouts of impatience which has predictable negative results > > > > So, I m upgrading and farkling the old girl and learning every nut and bolt in the process a good thing. > > > > Next project is replacing the triple clamp with ProCycles http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/klr650.html#controls Applied Racing triple clamp and oversized-tapering handlebar. PO had bent up some of the stuff, so even though this is pricey, the ProCycle guys swear by the upgrade and from an engineering perspective, a legit case can be made for the upgrade. The stock triple clamp come back at a 45 degree, these are straight up " don t know what the net effect will be I hoping this helps with steering feel and gets some of the vibration out. We ll see . > > > > Which leads me to the question I need help with - > > > > What can I expect to run into when trying to remove the grips " or what is the best way to remove them if I want to reuse them? > > > > Or, is there a good grip upgrade I should consider doing while I have everything torn apart? > > > > I imagine the grips will be stubborn and I have no idea how the throttle tube comes off - easy slide or ?? > > > > And just FYI " comments are welcome > > > > I m also doing the Thermo-Hickey and the Doo-Bob while the bike will be out of service > > > > I ve already done straight rate front springs, SS brake lines, all fluids changed, spark plug, brake pads, new HD tubes tires > > > > The goal is learn from the other KLR650 folks and come up with a better than new - to me (may not be how everyone else would do theirs)- KLR 650 > > > > Thanks, > > > > Stu > > > > o&>o > > > > ~~~~~/)~~~~~ > > > > From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of eddiebmauri@ > > Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2013 8:57 PM > > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Speedometer Woes.......... > > > > > > > > OK, a few weeks ago my speedometer's needle started to twitch a little. It would not hold steady and would bounce a little. > > > > Now the needle is completely dead - at any speed! > > > > So, based on this little bit of info, what do you all guess? Bad cable? > > > > What and where should I start? > > > > Eddie > > >
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