where can i buy a suction pump for an oil change?

[Guest]

I know that this must be the most basic maintenance question of all but here goes. In the owners manual it says that when doing an oil change "warm up the engine thoroughly, and then stop it. Place an oil pan...etc...." My question is, is it necessary to warm up the engine thoroughly before doing an oil change. I mean, I know enough to shut the engine off before draining the oil but why is it necessary to warm up the engine first? Or is Kawasaki wrong. I read a post the other day that says that the owners manual is wrong in more than a few places in regards to maintenance procedures. Thanks for the help. Sam A16

[RM]

On Sat, 7 Dec 2002, Sam King wrote:

>In the owners manual it says that when doing an oil change "warm up the >engine thoroughly, and then stop it. Place an oil pan...etc...." My >question is, is it necessary to warm up the engine thoroughly before >doing an oil change. I mean, I know enough to shut the engine off before >draining the oil but why is it necessary to warm up the engine first? Or >is Kawasaki wrong. I read a post the other day that says that the owners >manual is wrong in more than a few places in regards to maintenance >procedures.

The idea is to get any particulates that may have settled out of the oil back into suspension so that they can be drained out along with the oil. I argue that anything large enough to settle out would've been caught by the oil filter already. I suppose the warm oil will drain out faster, but there's the downside of having to wait for all of the oil to drain out of the nooks and crannies of the engine (as it does each time you shut it off). I just pull the damn plug and let it drain overnight. In the morning I lean the bike to the right and then set it back on the sidestand. I get a few more ounces that way. Regardless, don't worry about it too much. The bottom line is: oil and oil changes are both good things. Use them. RM

[dooden]

Good and bad... Good = Warming the engine and getting the oil flowing freely, allows it to drain taking any stuff in it that is suspended out the drain hole into the pan. Bad = Your oil filter is completely soaked and drips like a banshee when you pull it out. Of course leaving your bike on the side stand and pulling the filter has the same effect warm or cold, since inside the oil filter cavity, the drain is on the outside of the case, if the bike is on its sidestand, the filter retains a fair amount of oil, good I reckon for when you start it cold, bad for when you pull it out to change it. I plan to either have bike on mc/atv jack or warm it and lean it to the right for a while before pulling cover the next change. And "Please, do not throw away the metal tube the filter sits on", if you do, call Fred im sure he keeps lots onhand, just because if you aint'a looking for it, you wont see it. Dooden --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Sam King " wrote:

> I know that this must be the most basic maintenance question of all > but here goes. > > In the owners manual it says that when doing an oil change "warm up > the engine thoroughly, and then stop it. Place an oil pan...etc...." > My question is, is it necessary to warm up the engine thoroughly > before doing an oil change. I mean, I know enough to shut the engine > off before draining the oil but why is it necessary to warm up the > engine first? Or is Kawasaki wrong. I read a post the other day that > says that the owners manual is wrong in more than a few places in > regards to maintenance procedures. > > Thanks for the help. > > Sam > A16

[Andrus Chesley]

I change it between 3000 and 6000 depending on where I've been riding. I do lots of really dusty gravel roads down here in SW Louisiana. Been using just regular Mobile 1 for the last 10K miles when available. Sometimes I don't have any in the shop and use Castrol GTX 20/50 instead of making a special trip to get some. No problems, no oil usage. Run the same in my R1150GSA also with no problems. Andy in SW Louisiana

[Eddie]

I've had good luck changing hot oil by loosening the drain bolt to the last few turns and then backing it out with a telescoping pencil magnet. Done carefully, the bolt stays pointed upright and you don't sink the aluminum washer in the hot oil or burn your hands. While it's there on the magnet, I spray it off with brake cleaner to both cool and clean it. A good magnet can also help pluck a hot oil filter from it's cavity on a KLR. Just my $0.02.

=) eddie in Ga.

[Jeff Khoury]

How I remove the oil plug (when warm): 1. Break it loose with a ratchet. 2. Place the middle finger of my left hand in the center of the bolt head 3. Loosen the bolt with my right hand, keeping light pressure straight on the bolt head with my left. 4. When you feel that you've completely unscrewed the bolt (you'll feel the thread "click"), simply tilt and pull the bolt out; you won't get a drop on you. -Jeff Khoury

----- Original Message ----- From: "eddie" To: "KLR650 list" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 12:49:02 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] oil changes I've had good luck changing hot oil by loosening the drain bolt to the last few turns and then backing it out with a telescoping pencil magnet. Done carefully, the bolt stays pointed upright and you don't sink the aluminum washer in the hot oil or burn your hands. While it's there on the magnet, I spray it off with brake cleaner to both cool and clean it. A good magnet can also help pluck a hot oil filter from it's cavity on a KLR. Just my $0.02. =) eddie in Ga.

[Ron Haraseth]

That s the way I do it, but find it works even better when I'm wearing the nitrile gloves From: Jeff Khoury Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 1:55 PM To: eddie Cc: KLR650 list Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] oil changes How I remove the oil plug (when warm): 1. Break it loose with a ratchet. 2. Place the middle finger of my left hand in the center of the bolt head 3. Loosen the bolt with my right hand, keeping light pressure straight on the bolt head with my left. 4. When you feel that you've completely unscrewed the bolt (you'll feel the thread "click"), simply tilt and pull the bolt out; you won't get a drop on you. -Jeff Khoury [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[RobertWichert]

How I remove the oil plug (when warm): 1. Break it loose with a ratchet. 2. Place the middle finger of my left hand in the center of the bolt head 3. Loosen the bolt with my right hand, keeping light pressure straight on the bolt head with my left. 4. When you feel that you've completely unscrewed the bolt (you'll feel the thread "click") and hot oil will dribble onto your hands. 5. Drop the bolt in the pan and yell F***! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 11/25/2013 12:55 PM, Jeff Khoury wrote:

How I remove the oil plug (when warm): 1. Break it loose with a ratchet. 2. Place the middle finger of my left hand in the center of the bolt head 3. Loosen the bolt with my right hand, keeping light pressure straight on the bolt head with my left. 4. When you feel that you've completely unscrewed the bolt (you'll feel the thread "click"), simply tilt and pull the bolt out; you won't get a drop on you. -Jeff Khoury ----- Original Message ----- From: "eddie" edgyver40@... To: "KLR650 list" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 12:49:02 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] oil changes I've had good luck changing hot oil by loosening the drain bolt to the last few turns and then backing it out with a telescoping pencil magnet. Done carefully, the bolt stays pointed upright and you don't sink the aluminum washer in the hot oil or burn your hands. While it's there on the magnet, I spray it off with brake cleaner to both cool and clean it. A good magnet can also help pluck a hot oil filter from it's cavity on a KLR. Just my $0.02. =) eddie in Ga.

[Horton Oliphant]

After doing this several times I decided that changing the oil when it was warm was a better idea. Alan Henderson A13 Iowa

On 11/26/2013 9:22 AM, RobertWichert wrote:

How I remove the oil plug (when warm): 1. Break it loose with a ratchet. 2. Place the middle finger of my left hand in the center of the bolt head 3. Loosen the bolt with my right hand, keeping light pressure straight on the bolt head with my left. 4. When you feel that you've completely unscrewed the bolt (you'll feel the thread "click") and hot oil will dribble onto your hands. 5. Drop the bolt in the pan and yell F***! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068

[mark ward]

SAFTY 1st. The best way to know if the oil temp. is in the safe is the same way you checking to see if it is freezing out side, Just stick your tongue to the metal. SIZZLES AND BLISTERS, a little to hot. STICKS to it, a little to cold. I would have sent this mesg. by Skype, but currently, the flag pole says it's 20 degrees out, so I may be here awhile.

[b]From:[/b] Horton Oliphant [b]To:[/b] klr DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, November 26, 2013 9:53 PM [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] oil changes   After doing this several times I decided that changing the oil when it was warm was a better idea. Alan Henderson A13 Iowa On 11/26/2013 9:22 AM, RobertWichert wrote:   How I remove the oil plug (when warm): 1. Break it loose with a ratchet. 2. Place the middle finger of my left hand in the center of the bolt head 3. Loosen the bolt with my right hand, keeping light pressure straight on the bolt head with my left. 4. When you feel that you've completely unscrewed the bolt (you'll feel the thread "click") and hot oil will dribble onto your hands. 5. Drop the bolt in the pan and yell F***! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068