greaseninja chain oiler

[klarmyman]

My 2002 KLR650 is leaking gas out of the overflow tube. Is my float stuck??????????? Not much of a mechanic, just wanted to hear what everyones thoughts were on this before I take it to the dealer.

[cristian_njimenez]

I own an 87 klr. I recently relocated to oregon from utah. The bike ran fine here in oregon for a couple of days, and then out of no where. It started cutting out at about 3000 rpm. Any one out there in this group have any advise. Suggestions are highly regarded at this point

[JRC]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "cristian_njimenez" wrote:

> > I own an 87 klr. I recently relocated to oregon from utah. The bike > ran fine here in oregon for a couple of days, and then out of no > where. It started cutting out at about 3000 rpm.

3000 rpm is approximately the cutover point between the pilot circuit and the mid range. It could be a problem in your mid-range circuit (needle, diaphragm, etc.) JRC '01 LC1500 A13

[clearprop5]

I can't say your problem is the same as mine, but. The symptoms are exactly the same. I had no more throttle above 3000 ish. You could twist the throttle, but the bike would not accelerate any more. It turned out to be the diaphragm. It had a small split on the edge. Easy enough to check, just take the top plastic cap off and out comes the diaphgram. If that is the problem, look for the part at your local Harley Davidson shop, NOT Kawasaki. The Harley part is 1/3 the cost. Go figure. To re-install the diaphgram, just put a little grease around the groove on the top of the carb body and that will hold the diaphgram in place while you put the top plastic cap back on. Hope this helps, Mike

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "JRC" wrote: > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "cristian_njimenez" > wrote: > > > > I own an 87 klr. I recently relocated to oregon from utah. The bike > > ran fine here in oregon for a couple of days, and then out of no > > where. It started cutting out at about 3000 rpm. > 3000 rpm is approximately the cutover point between the pilot circuit > and the mid range. It could be a problem in your mid-range circuit > (needle, diaphragm, etc.) > > JRC > '01 LC1500 > A13 >

[John Biccum]

I bought an entire Keihin CV40, a zero-mile take off, from an employee of the local Harley dealer. He was happy to get $50 for it. Dumping the CV40 in favor of another carb is the second most popular modification made by new big-twin Harley owners after fitting an aftermarket exhaust system to make more noise, I mean...power. The CV40 is an interesting carb, very similar to the CVK40 used on the KLR but not identical as I was lead to believe. The CV40 has a considerably different throttle linkage, lacks the flange to fit the airbox and also features an accelerator pump. I bet I could make the linkage work and it looks like Keihin sells the bolt-on flange I need to fit the airbox. The accelerator pump might be an interesting mod, it might make the KLR into the ultimate wheelie machine. One of these days I get the cycles to play with it and see if I can make it work. The internal parts seem identical. The slide, diagraphm and other parts interchange. Before I would spend the time waiting for the local HD dealer to order the carb parts you need I 'd check to see if someone in the service department doesn't just have an entire carb you have purchase to use as a parts donor. Photos here: http://johnbiccum.smugmug.com/gallery/1673602/1/82033214 _____ From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of clearprop5 Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 1:09 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: carb issues I can't say your problem is the same as mine, but. The symptoms are exactly the same. I had no more throttle above 3000 ish. You could twist the throttle, but the bike would not accelerate any more. It turned out to be the diaphragm. It had a small split on the edge. Easy enough to check, just take the top plastic cap off and out comes the diaphgram. If that is the problem, look for the part at your local Harley Davidson shop, NOT Kawasaki. The Harley part is 1/3 the cost. Go figure. To re-install the diaphgram, just put a little grease around the groove on the top of the carb body and that will hold the diaphgram in place while you put the top plastic cap back on. Hope this helps, Mike --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, "JRC" wrote:

> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com,

"cristian_njimenez"

> wrote: > > > > I own an 87 klr. I recently relocated to oregon from utah. The bike > > ran fine here in oregon for a couple of days, and then out of no > > where. It started cutting out at about 3000 rpm. > 3000 rpm is approximately the cutover point between the pilot circuit > and the mid range. It could be a problem in your mid-range circuit > (needle, diaphragm, etc.) > > JRC > '01 LC1500 > A13 >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jim Tegler]

My KLR had the carb disassembled by the DPO - who happened to be me.... put the needle for the main jet on top of the holder/spring assembly and which would normally cause it to rise up and down. Because it didn't do that the bike would not go over 3,000 rpms. Same as the symptoms with the torn diaphragm. I would hence think that your problems are with the malfunctioning of that system. A5 Cap'n Newbie [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

Listers, Recently a guy was having some troubles with his KLR. He had opened the bottom of the carb and found a bug blocking the main jet. That didn't solve the idle, bogging, stalling, surging and stumbling issues. He let a "professional" mechanic look at it and got charged $100 to have it thoroughly cleaned and inspected. The "pro" declared the carb worn out. It was off a 1989 KLR 650 but I don't think it was a high mileage bike. The carb was replaced with a used carb and the bike ran like a champ. I've been wanting a carb to play with so I asked him if he was going to keep the old carb. We discussed a trade, came to an agreement and I think we're both pleased. I received the worn out and inoperative carb yesterday afternoon. I took the old carb apart this morning and found a couple of things I think were wrong. Remember I haven't been in a KLR carb before but have plenty of experience with CV type carbs and other carbs too. -The throttle plate isn't centered perfectly in the throttle bore. It shows evidence of being messed with. I decided it's not off enough for me to mess with at this time and want to see the carb in operation before deciding it's worth doing something about. - The needle spring seat in the slide was about two coils up the slide spring. It should be retained at the end of the spring. I believe the spring was put in backwards. I reversed it when reassembling the carb as the "other" end of the spring is closed and fit securely around the spring seat "fingers". - The pilot air jet was almost completely blocked. A quick shot of carb cleaner through it cleaned the orifice. I inspected it with a good light and also a powerful magnifier headset. All other jets were spotless as were all the passages in the carb body. The idle mixture screw was out 1 5/8 turns which for my elevation is probably just a tad rich but might be spot on for a near sea level riding area. But with the pilot air jet almost completely blocked I don't think it would matter if the idle mixture screw was out 3 or 4 turns. I think the idle fuel delivery system was inoperative or almost inoperative. The idle speed screw was screwed in more than I would think was needed but with the other problems that might have helped compensate for the almost completely blocked pilot air jet as it may have allowed the carb to just start getting on the needle. The inside of the carb was clean and it only took about 45 seconds with a can of spray carb cleaner to clean up the outside before I got to working on it. The float level was spot on. The diaphragm on the slide looked great and was supple. I could see a slight burn mark at the top of the slide (intake side) on the plastic diaphragm retainer that might have been caused by using starting fluid or backfiring. But it in no way keeps the part from being serviceable. There were idle, bogging, stalling, surging and stumbling issues and I think it was primarily caused by two items. The almost completely blocked pilot air jet affects fuel delivery at idle and just off idle throttle plate movement. So that was probably the issue with the idle, bogging and stalling issues. With the pilot air jet mostly blocked, fuel wasn't getting delivered in the correct amount or maybe even at all. Having the idle speed screw turned in a bit extra opened the throttle plate and allowed the idle fuel delivery problem to be masked as maybe just a tad bit of fuel was then being sucked into the mixture from the needle jet. The surging and stumbling problem I'm thinking were maybe caused by the needle not being secured in the slide. With the spring seat two coils high in the spring I'm thinking it allowed the needle to "rattle" around in the slide. That could cause erratic fuel flow at speed and thus be evident as surging or stumbling. So I think I've got the carb sorted but won't know for sure until I can install it and give it a good test. We've decided this should be posted to the list so maybe someone can learn from this and keep their bike running. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[Blake Sobiloff]

On Apr 12, 2007, at 3:56 PM, Jeff Saline wrote:

> Recently a guy was having some troubles with his KLR. He had > opened the > bottom of the carb and found a bug blocking the main jet.

[...] Jeff, bravo on a most excellent post! Thanks for sharing. -- Blake Sobiloff http://sobiloff.typepad.com/blakeblog/> http://sobiloff.typepad.com/klr_adventure/> San Jose, CA (USA) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[cactus_reese]

There is gunk in your needle valve seat keeping the float needle from seating and shutting off gas flow. Believe me, you can fix this. No need for a mechanic. Just remove the bottom of the float bowl and clean the seat. You can often clear it by starting the bike and running it at 3000 RPM for 2 minutes. You'll need to give it gas to start it. -Bryan

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "klarmyman" wrote: > > My 2002 KLR650 is leaking gas out of the overflow tube. Is my float > stuck??????????? Not much of a mechanic, just wanted to hear what > everyones thoughts were on this before I take it to the dealer. >

[Brent Tegler]

I had this problem, it is relatively easy to fix once you get the carburetor off the bike. Be careful removing the float/needle valve assembly to ensure no parts are bent (remember the float is adjusted by merely bending the tab holding the needle valve). Note that after cleaning a dirty float bowl and reassembling everything I continued to have the same problem. Very frustrating! So after taking everything apart a second time and looking VERY carefully I located a very small sliver of plastic stuck in/above the hole where the needle valve seats itself in the body of the carburetor... so look carefully up in to this hole using a flashlight!!!! Good luck, Brent Tegler