On 1/27/2013 6:29 PM, Jeff Saline wrote: > > On Sun, 27 Jan 2013 18:20:20 -0800 (PST) mark ward > mailto:nomad59%40sbcglobal.net > writes: > > I can NOT get my shield bolts to loosen. > > > > Didn't try REAL hard I didn't want to snap them. > > > > They are a little loose (FROZEN in place) so the sheild would rattle > > if I didn't have a hose clamp on it. > <><><><><><> > <><><><><><> > > Mark, > > Maybe soak the bolts with some Kroil penetrating oil. A couple of heat > cycles and soakings with the Kroil and then use of a hand impact and mid > size hammer should loosen or break the bolts. If they break you can then > try to drill them out or grind off the nuts and weld new nuts to the > header pipe. > > Kroil is available from KANO Laboratory in Kentucky or maybe a local > machine supply shop or gunsmith. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > . > . > __________________________________________________________ > Woman is 53 But Looks 25 > Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors... > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5105e3185ca43631843ddst02vuc > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
parts, now exhaust
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parts question...............
Kawasaki uses two fiber insulating washers on each of these heat shield bolts. These washers will degrade from heat and vibration and sometimes fall off, causing the heat shield to be loose. You may cause heat problems or cracking of the heat shield without using those insulating washers.
There are lots of clamp on heat shields. (used mostly for HDs etc)
http://images.motorcycleparts2u.com/xmoto-pics/990180p-cobra-heat-shield-assembly-1-34in.jpg
Fred
http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com
From: RobertWichert
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 7:30 AM
To: Jeff Saline
Cc: nomad59@... ; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Parts Question...............
My shield bolts were likewise rusted in place and VERY hard to remove.
The shield also rattled. I got them out with lots of torque and
replaced them with stainless ones a bi shorter to stop the rattle.
Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C
+1 916 966 9060
FAX +1 916 966 9068
===============================================
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- Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 11:32 am
parts question...............
Yes, Fred, I'm sure the shield will get hotter now that it doesn't
rattle. But it doesn't rattle!
Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C
+1 916 966 9060
FAX +1 916 966 9068
===============================================
On 1/28/2013 6:40 AM, Fred Hink wrote: > Kawasaki uses two fiber insulating washers on each of these heat > shield bolts. These washers will degrade from heat and vibration and > sometimes fall off, causing the heat shield to be loose. You may > cause heat problems or cracking of the heat shield without using those > insulating washers. > There are lots of clamp on heat shields. (used mostly for HDs etc) > http://images.motorcycleparts2u.com/xmoto-pics/990180p-cobra-heat-shield-assembly-1-34in.jpg > > Fred > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > > *From:* RobertWichert > *Sent:* Monday, January 28, 2013 7:30 AM > *To:* Jeff Saline > *Cc:* nomad59@... ; > DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > *Subject:* Re: [DSN_KLR650] Parts Question............... > > My shield bolts were likewise rusted in place and VERY hard to remove. > The shield also rattled. I got them out with lots of torque and > replaced them with stainless ones a bi shorter to stop the rattle. > > Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C > +1 916 966 9060 > FAX +1 916 966 9068 > > =============================================== > > On 1/27/2013 6:29 PM, Jeff Saline wrote: > > > > On Sun, 27 Jan 2013 18:20:20 -0800 (PST) mark ward > > mailto:nomad59%40sbcglobal.net > writes: > > > I can NOT get my shield bolts to loosen. > > > > > > Didn't try REAL hard I didn't want to snap them. > > > > > > They are a little loose (FROZEN in place) so the sheild would rattle > > > if I didn't have a hose clamp on it. > > <><><><><><> > > <><><><><><> > > > > Mark, > > > > Maybe soak the bolts with some Kroil penetrating oil. A couple of heat > > cycles and soakings with the Kroil and then use of a hand impact and mid > > size hammer should loosen or break the bolts. If they break you can then > > try to drill them out or grind off the nuts and weld new nuts to the > > header pipe. > > > > Kroil is available from KANO Laboratory in Kentucky or maybe a local > > machine supply shop or gunsmith. > > > > Best, > > > > Jeff Saline > > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > > > . > > . > > __________________________________________________________ > > Woman is 53 But Looks 25 > > Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors... > > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5105e3185ca43631843ddst02vuc > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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parts, now exhaust
Nope. That one can stay where it is forever if you ask me. Running
constantly at 6000 RPM is my "cleanout".
Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C
+1 916 966 9060
FAX +1 916 966 9068
===============================================
On 1/28/2013 6:45 AM, mark ward wrote: > Hey robert did you ever get your "Clean-out" plugs removed? > I noticed mine (as most) barely move, (SQUEAK) and thats it. > As the list a few yrs ago said, I have left them alone rather then > SNAP them. > I thought about using the Air Impact, and set the pressure very low, > so it just, rrr-tap rrrr-tap rrr-tap taps, instead of RRR!!!! SNAP!!!!. > I tried heat and the old back and forth. (the same 1/16 of an inch > movement > > --- On *Mon, 1/28/13, RobertWichert //* wrote: > > > From: RobertWichert > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Parts Question............... > To: "Jeff Saline" > Cc: nomad59@..., DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Date: Monday, January 28, 2013, 2:30 PM > > My shield bolts were likewise rusted in place and VERY hard to > remove. The shield also rattled. I got them out with lots of > torque and replaced them with stainless ones a bi shorter to stop > the rattle. > > > Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C > +1 916 966 9060 > FAX +1 916 966 9068 > > > > > > > > =============================================== > > On 1/27/2013 6:29 PM, Jeff Saline wrote: >> On Sun, 27 Jan 2013 18:20:20 -0800 (PST) mark ward >> nomad59@... >> http://us.mc1847.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=nomad59%40sbcglobal.net>> >> writes: >> > I can NOT get my shield bolts to loosen. >> > >> > Didn't try REAL hard I didn't want to snap them. >> > >> > They are a little loose (FROZEN in place) so the sheild would >> rattle >> > if I didn't have a hose clamp on it. >> <><><><><><> >> <><><><><><> >> >> Mark, >> >> Maybe soak the bolts with some Kroil penetrating oil. A couple of >> heat >> cycles and soakings with the Kroil and then use of a hand impact >> and mid >> size hammer should loosen or break the bolts. If they break you >> can then >> try to drill them out or grind off the nuts and weld new nuts to the >> header pipe. >> >> Kroil is available from KANO Laboratory in Kentucky or maybe a local >> machine supply shop or gunsmith. >> >> Best, >> >> Jeff Saline >> ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal >> Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org http://www.airheads.org/> >> The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota >> 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 >> >> . >> . >> __________________________________________________________ >> Woman is 53 But Looks 25 >> Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors... >> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5105e3185ca43631843ddst02vuc >> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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