[glds] picture of the day - royal blue trail

[Jud]

You are correct that lowering the rear of the bike will slow down the steering. Whether the bike is more stable will depend on a number of factors. If you lower the rear by softening the effective rate of the spring (as you do with lowering links) or reducing preload to the point where sag is excessive, then your handling will go all to hell as soon as you get on a bumpy track. Too little rear spring will tend to unweight the front wheel. The bike will become unstable in crosswinds, and the front wheel will hunt from side to side, refusing to follow a single wheel track. Voila, a slow-steering, unstable bike. Keep your pace down and stay off the bumps and you may be okay, for a while.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, RobertWichert wrote: > > OK, my turn.... > > I put 2" lowering links on mine (2007) and rode it like that for maybe > two years. Rode fine. Much easier to maneuver and MUCH less tippy. > People say you can keep it up with one foot, well yes you can, but if it > starts to go over, it's way harder to stop when it's higher. It's the > bleeping gas tank. Take that sucker off some time and you'll see how > easy the bike is to maneuver then. So I shortened the kick stand and I > was a happy camper. I don't ride the Rubicon, so the off road I do > (dirt/gravel/snow/etc) was not impacted. Also people said the sag would > be bad, well, I never noticed it. > > Then I went on a "lowered seat" search. Hated it. Bought a lowered > Sergeant seat after a lot of research. My legs are too long for that. > I felt like a pretzel. It went back and I got their standard seat. > It's great. > > Then I went on a "lowered shock" mission. Bought a Progressive "1" > lower" shock. I put that on after looking at it on the bench for about > six months and took off the 2" lowering links and put on 1" lowering > links. Now the bike is higher than before! I have no idea why, but it > rides fine and I can still maneuver it easily and it is not as tippy as > stock. So I'm satisfied and a happy camper again. > > Now for handling... It DOES make a difference. But wait! When I > originally put the 2" lowering links on, I tried to figure out what it > would do. I have decided (don't try to convince me otherwise, > regardless, I have made up my mind) that lowering the rear increases > rake and trail. And that makes it more stable and theoretically less > easy to turn into corners. And guess what? It's true! It's true! I > could tell on the freeway that it was more stable in the buffeting. As > for less easy to turn in, well, the next time you are on the track at > Willow Springs you can tell me how it is. I don't do that. PROOF - Hot > shot road racers drop their triple clamps (raise their forks) to make > their bikes easier and quicker turning. Not kidding. > > So, my recommendation is unless you want your legs to be bent more than > they are, stay away from lowered seats. I also recommend lowering the > bike using links or shocks (if you can afford shocks - they are > expensive!) and get it so you like it. You'll be happier when you are > happy with the height of the bike, I can tell you that. All the "get > used to it" stuff isn't going to make you happy. Lower the triple > clamp? Well, I never did it, but why not? I actually thought about > buying Progressive fork springs, but they don't make lower ones, and > they are expensive, so I kept it stock (and free). > > > Cheers to all! > > > Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C > +1 916 966 9060 > FAX +1 916 966 9068 > > > > > > > > =============================================== > > On 12/25/2012 9:25 PM, Jud wrote: > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > , Michel Chamberland > > wrote: > > > > > > I am also 5'11", I've had the pre-load setting at 1 (softest) and > > that was > > > still too high for me. I could really only put one feet down. I put the > > > eagle mike lowering links (1 inch), raised the forks 1 inch and cut my > > > kickstand one inch to keep original geometry and at this point i am > > close > > > to flat footed when stopped but not all the way there still. The > > bike still > > > has plenty of clearance and even if i am not fully flat footed I > > feel a lot > > > more in control of the bike when stopped. I am very happy with this > > setup. > > > > > > Hope this helps. > > > > > > > The point is to be in control when the bike is underway. When you are > > stopped, there is nothing to control; all you need to do is keep it > > from tipping over. One foot is plenty for that. > > > > A KLR with insufficient spring or too much sag (essentially the same > > thing) is going to be an evil-handling beast at anything more than a > > walking pace on a smooth track. > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Jud]

You are correct that lowering the rear of the bike will slow down the steering. Whether the bike is more stable will depend on a number of factors. If you lower the rear by softening the effective rate of the spring (as you do with lowering links) or reducing preload to the point where sag is excessive, then your handling will go all to hell as soon as you get on a bumpy track. Too little rear spring will tend to unweight the front wheel. The bike will become unstable in crosswinds, and the front wheel will hunt from side to side, refusing to follow a single wheel track. Voila, a slow-steering, unstable bike. Keep your pace down and stay off the bumps and you may be okay, for a while.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, RobertWichert wrote: > > OK, my turn.... > > I put 2" lowering links on mine (2007) and rode it like that for maybe > two years. Rode fine. Much easier to maneuver and MUCH less tippy. > People say you can keep it up with one foot, well yes you can, but if it > starts to go over, it's way harder to stop when it's higher. It's the > bleeping gas tank. Take that sucker off some time and you'll see how > easy the bike is to maneuver then. So I shortened the kick stand and I > was a happy camper. I don't ride the Rubicon, so the off road I do > (dirt/gravel/snow/etc) was not impacted. Also people said the sag would > be bad, well, I never noticed it. > > Then I went on a "lowered seat" search. Hated it. Bought a lowered > Sergeant seat after a lot of research. My legs are too long for that. > I felt like a pretzel. It went back and I got their standard seat. > It's great. > > Then I went on a "lowered shock" mission. Bought a Progressive "1" > lower" shock. I put that on after looking at it on the bench for about > six months and took off the 2" lowering links and put on 1" lowering > links. Now the bike is higher than before! I have no idea why, but it > rides fine and I can still maneuver it easily and it is not as tippy as > stock. So I'm satisfied and a happy camper again. > > Now for handling... It DOES make a difference. But wait! When I > originally put the 2" lowering links on, I tried to figure out what it > would do. I have decided (don't try to convince me otherwise, > regardless, I have made up my mind) that lowering the rear increases > rake and trail. And that makes it more stable and theoretically less > easy to turn into corners. And guess what? It's true! It's true! I > could tell on the freeway that it was more stable in the buffeting. As > for less easy to turn in, well, the next time you are on the track at > Willow Springs you can tell me how it is. I don't do that. PROOF - Hot > shot road racers drop their triple clamps (raise their forks) to make > their bikes easier and quicker turning. Not kidding. > > So, my recommendation is unless you want your legs to be bent more than > they are, stay away from lowered seats. I also recommend lowering the > bike using links or shocks (if you can afford shocks - they are > expensive!) and get it so you like it. You'll be happier when you are > happy with the height of the bike, I can tell you that. All the "get > used to it" stuff isn't going to make you happy. Lower the triple > clamp? Well, I never did it, but why not? I actually thought about > buying Progressive fork springs, but they don't make lower ones, and > they are expensive, so I kept it stock (and free). > > > Cheers to all! > > > Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C > +1 916 966 9060 > FAX +1 916 966 9068 > > > > > > > > =============================================== > > On 12/25/2012 9:25 PM, Jud wrote: > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > , Michel Chamberland > > wrote: > > > > > > I am also 5'11", I've had the pre-load setting at 1 (softest) and > > that was > > > still too high for me. I could really only put one feet down. I put the > > > eagle mike lowering links (1 inch), raised the forks 1 inch and cut my > > > kickstand one inch to keep original geometry and at this point i am > > close > > > to flat footed when stopped but not all the way there still. The > > bike still > > > has plenty of clearance and even if i am not fully flat footed I > > feel a lot > > > more in control of the bike when stopped. I am very happy with this > > setup. > > > > > > Hope this helps. > > > > > > > The point is to be in control when the bike is underway. When you are > > stopped, there is nothing to control; all you need to do is keep it > > from tipping over. One foot is plenty for that. > > > > A KLR with insufficient spring or too much sag (essentially the same > > thing) is going to be an evil-handling beast at anything more than a > > walking pace on a smooth track. > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Desert Datsuns]

Generally speaking, especially when it comes to dirt bikes, lowering the forks in the trees makes the bike easier to turn, but at the expense of stability at high speeds. There's always a trade off. Ryan Newman Phoenix, AZ 71 510 81 280ZXT 06 Frontier Jud wrote:

> > > You are correct that lowering the rear of the bike will slow down the > steering. Whether the bike is more stable will depend on a number of > factors. If you lower the rear by softening the effective rate of the > spring (as you do with lowering links) or reducing preload to the point > where sag is excessive, then your handling will go all to hell as soon > as you get on a bumpy track. Too little rear spring will tend to > unweight the front wheel. The bike will become unstable in crosswinds, > and the front wheel will hunt from side to side, refusing to follow a > single wheel track. Voila, a slow-steering, unstable bike. Keep your > pace down and stay off the bumps and you may be okay, for a while. > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com , > RobertWichert wrote: > > > > OK, my turn.... > > > > I put 2" lowering links on mine (2007) and rode it like that for maybe > > two years. Rode fine. Much easier to maneuver and MUCH less tippy. > > People say you can keep it up with one foot, well yes you can, but if it > > starts to go over, it's way harder to stop when it's higher. It's the > > bleeping gas tank. Take that sucker off some time and you'll see how > > easy the bike is to maneuver then. So I shortened the kick stand and I > > was a happy camper. I don't ride the Rubicon, so the off road I do > > (dirt/gravel/snow/etc) was not impacted. Also people said the sag would > > be bad, well, I never noticed it. > > > > Then I went on a "lowered seat" search. Hated it. Bought a lowered > > Sergeant seat after a lot of research. My legs are too long for that. > > I felt like a pretzel. It went back and I got their standard seat. > > It's great. > > > > Then I went on a "lowered shock" mission. Bought a Progressive "1" > > lower" shock. I put that on after looking at it on the bench for about > > six months and took off the 2" lowering links and put on 1" lowering > > links. Now the bike is higher than before! I have no idea why, but it > > rides fine and I can still maneuver it easily and it is not as tippy as > > stock. So I'm satisfied and a happy camper again. > > > > Now for handling... It DOES make a difference. But wait! When I > > originally put the 2" lowering links on, I tried to figure out what it > > would do. I have decided (don't try to convince me otherwise, > > regardless, I have made up my mind) that lowering the rear increases > > rake and trail. And that makes it more stable and theoretically less > > easy to turn into corners. And guess what? It's true! It's true! I > > could tell on the freeway that it was more stable in the buffeting. As > > for less easy to turn in, well, the next time you are on the track at > > Willow Springs you can tell me how it is. I don't do that. PROOF - Hot > > shot road racers drop their triple clamps (raise their forks) to make > > their bikes easier and quicker turning. Not kidding. > > > > So, my recommendation is unless you want your legs to be bent more than > > they are, stay away from lowered seats. I also recommend lowering the > > bike using links or shocks (if you can afford shocks - they are > > expensive!) and get it so you like it. You'll be happier when you are > > happy with the height of the bike, I can tell you that. All the "get > > used to it" stuff isn't going to make you happy. Lower the triple > > clamp? Well, I never did it, but why not? I actually thought about > > buying Progressive fork springs, but they don't make lower ones, and > > they are expensive, so I kept it stock (and free). > > > > > > Cheers to all! > > > > > > Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C > > +1 916 966 9060 > > FAX +1 916 966 9068 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > =============================================== > > > > On 12/25/2012 9:25 PM, Jud wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > > > , Michel Chamberland > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > I am also 5'11", I've had the pre-load setting at 1 (softest) and > > > that was > > > > still too high for me. I could really only put one feet down. I > put the > > > > eagle mike lowering links (1 inch), raised the forks 1 inch and > cut my > > > > kickstand one inch to keep original geometry and at this point i am > > > close > > > > to flat footed when stopped but not all the way there still. The > > > bike still > > > > has plenty of clearance and even if i am not fully flat footed I > > > feel a lot > > > > more in control of the bike when stopped. I am very happy with this > > > setup. > > > > > > > > Hope this helps. > > > > > > > > > > The point is to be in control when the bike is underway. When you are > > > stopped, there is nothing to control; all you need to do is keep it > > > from tipping over. One foot is plenty for that. > > > > > > A KLR with insufficient spring or too much sag (essentially the same > > > thing) is going to be an evil-handling beast at anything more than a > > > walking pace on a smooth track. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com http://www.avg.com> > Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2637/5488 - Release Date: 12/26/12 >

[revmaaatin]

West Virginia, Welcome to the DSN and initiation to the KiLeRista's. You will find this link (upper left banner/column) of FAQ's to be helpful as well. http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html After reading all the 'opinions', let me give you the quick and dirty answer! There is actually several. smile. You are correct in asking the question; you will enjoy the bike more if you can touch the ground easily. There are a couple of ways to accomplish that: 1. You can lower the rear, 1 or 2 inches with lowering links. --as other posters have stated, it changes the geometry some. and it will change the ground clearance. I say, so what. I note that you are not a Mx rider or single track rider on a KLR overall, it will work just fine for you I also say, 'so what' based on your age disclosure, and the realistic view of what you will use the bike for, it truly is, 'so what') 2. You can put on a shorter shock. Same results; though I have no personal experience here. The list moderator, "FRED" would be a good person to talk to about this. Fred's product list is here; phone number is listed at the site. http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/ 3. If you do 1 or 2, it is 'generally' recommended sliding the forks up in the triple trees an equal amount. = one inch for one inch of lowering links. 3a. For Free! You might try sliding the forks up in the triple trees an inch and see if that is 'enough' to increase your comfort level. Yeah, it changes the geomotry some; it is not a race bike at this point. NOTE: using method 1-3 will require an adjustment to you side stand length = shorter. 4. Different seat = moves your butt closer to the ground; leaves the bike with superior ground clearance. There are two types of lowered seats: platform and a dipped; Corbin brand is a popular model. Meyers is another.... It would be nice if you could borrow a seat and try it. I have owned both the Corbin dipped seat and the platform, and settled on the platform; sold the dip seat to a SHORT-legged Ross of ND. It was the perfect solution for him. He could touch the ground with both feet and he kept the wonderful clearance. THE BAD: The dipped seat places you in a V-shaped pocket; the platform seat has two seating areas. Neither seat allows for much fore/aft movement in the saddle. For every mod, there is an equal and opposite reaction. shrug. The GOOD: Both seats allow the bike to keep its OEM geometry and ground clearance while subtracting ~two or more inch of seat height. 5. OEM seat mods: many here have removed their seat, replaced the foam with denser foam with less height which moves the butt closer to the ground as well. 6. Using a 4.50 x 17 tire instead of a 5.10 x 17 tire will net you about 3/4 inch. For MAX results: 7. You can use lowering links and a different seat to gain up to 4" of less butt-altitude. Overall, I found the best solution for me (though not necessarily the cheapest) was the platform seat. Let us know what you decide. revmaaatin.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "wvskypilot" wrote: > > > I have just bought my first KL6 650 after have all sorts of m/cs since > age 16 (now 83) riding on road off road and motorcross. I am 5' > 11" but find it hard to put my feet on the ground. > > I have heard that these bike can be lowered, My question is what > is the best method, for the best use of the machine. > > Any ideas or comment are welcome > > >

[mark ward]

DITO!! "SO WHAT!" If you change ANYTHING about ANY bike it "MAY" change the ride a bit. Wellllllll so does changing bikes. So I agree with Rev. Travel Safe!! Travel Well!! and ENJOY!!!

--- On Thu, 12/27/12, revmaaatin wrote: From: revmaaatin Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Lowering a KLR 650 To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, December 27, 2012, 9:23 PM West Virginia, Welcome to the DSN and initiation to the KiLeRista's. You will find this link (upper left banner/column) of FAQ's to be helpful as well. http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html After reading all the 'opinions', let me give you the quick and dirty answer! There is actually several. smile. You are correct in asking the question; you will enjoy the bike more if you can touch the ground easily. There are a couple of ways to accomplish that: 1. You can lower the rear, 1 or 2 inches with lowering links. --as other posters have stated, it changes the geometry some. and it will change the ground clearance. I say, so what. I note that you are not a Mx rider or single track rider on a KLR overall, it will work just fine for you I also say, 'so what' based on your age disclosure, and the realistic view of what you will use the bike for, it truly is, 'so what') 2. You can put on a shorter shock. Same results; though I have no personal experience here. The list moderator, "FRED" would be a good person to talk to about this. Fred's product list is here; phone number is listed at the site. http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/ 3. If you do 1 or 2, it is 'generally' recommended sliding the forks up in the triple trees an equal amount. = one inch for one inch of lowering links. 3a. For Free! You might try sliding the forks up in the triple trees an inch and see if that is 'enough' to increase your comfort level. Yeah, it changes the geomotry some; it is not a race bike at this point. NOTE: using method 1-3 will require an adjustment to you side stand length = shorter. 4. Different seat = moves your butt closer to the ground; leaves the bike with superior ground clearance. There are two types of lowered seats: platform and a dipped; Corbin brand is a popular model. Meyers is another.... It would be nice if you could borrow a seat and try it. I have owned both the Corbin dipped seat and the platform, and settled on the platform; sold the dip seat to a SHORT-legged Ross of ND. It was the perfect solution for him. He could touch the ground with both feet and he kept the wonderful clearance. THE BAD: The dipped seat places you in a V-shaped pocket; the platform seat has two seating areas. Neither seat allows for much fore/aft movement in the saddle. For every mod, there is an equal and opposite reaction. shrug. The GOOD: Both seats allow the bike to keep its OEM geometry and ground clearance while subtracting ~two or more inch of seat height. 5. OEM seat mods: many here have removed their seat, replaced the foam with denser foam with less height which moves the butt closer to the ground as well. 6. Using a 4.50 x 17 tire instead of a 5.10 x 17 tire will net you about 3/4 inch. For MAX results: 7. You can use lowering links and a different seat to gain up to 4" of less butt-altitude. Overall, I found the best solution for me (though not necessarily the cheapest) was the platform seat. Let us know what you decide. revmaaatin. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "wvskypilot" wrote: > > > I have just bought my first KL6 650 after have all sorts of m/cs since > age 16 (now 83) riding on road off road and motorcross. I am 5' > 11" but find it hard to put my feet on the ground. > > I have heard that these bike can be lowered, My question is what > is the best method, for the best use of the machine. > > Any ideas or comment are welcome > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[ron criswell]

If you lower it, you will bang the crap out of the skid plate if you ride in places like Moab (White Rim) or Big Bend National Park (the gravel / rock river road) and some fire roads. Mine is stock. I have some pretty good gouges in my after market aluminum skid plate. That oil drain plug is just too vulnerable for me.I think if I was going to spend some money, I would spring for a better rear shock as it bottoms pretty easy in the rougher stuff. I have Progressive springs on front. Criswell Sent from my iPad

On Dec 27, 2012, at 3:23 PM, "revmaaatin" wrote: > West Virginia, > Welcome to the DSN and initiation to the KiLeRista's. > > You will find this link (upper left banner/column) of FAQ's to be helpful as well. > http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > After reading all the 'opinions', let me give you the quick and dirty answer! There is actually several. smile. > > You are correct in asking the question; you will enjoy the bike more if you can touch the ground easily. > There are a couple of ways to accomplish that: > > 1. You can lower the rear, 1 or 2 inches with lowering links. > --as other posters have stated, it changes the geometry some. > and it will change the ground clearance. > I say, so what. > I note that you are not a Mx rider or single track rider on a KLR overall, it will work just fine for you > > I also say, 'so what' based on your age disclosure, and the realistic view of what you will use the bike for, it truly is, 'so what') > > 2. You can put on a shorter shock. Same results; though I have no personal experience here. The list moderator, "FRED" would be a good person to talk to about this. > Fred's product list is here; phone number is listed at the site. > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/ > > 3. If you do 1 or 2, it is 'generally' recommended sliding the forks up in the triple trees an equal amount. = one inch for one inch of lowering links. > > 3a. For Free! > You might try sliding the forks up in the triple trees an inch and see if that is 'enough' to increase your comfort level. > Yeah, it changes the geomotry some; it is not a race bike at this point. > > NOTE: using method 1-3 will require an adjustment to you side stand length = shorter. > > 4. Different seat = moves your butt closer to the ground; leaves the bike with superior ground clearance. > There are two types of lowered seats: platform and a dipped; Corbin brand is a popular model. Meyers is another.... > > It would be nice if you could borrow a seat and try it. > I have owned both the Corbin dipped seat and the platform, and settled on the platform; sold the dip seat to a SHORT-legged Ross of ND. It was the perfect solution for him. He could touch the ground with both feet > and > he kept the wonderful clearance. > > THE BAD: > The dipped seat places you in a V-shaped pocket; the platform seat has two seating areas. Neither seat allows for much fore/aft movement in the saddle. > For every mod, there is an equal and opposite reaction. shrug. > > The GOOD: > Both seats allow the bike to keep its OEM geometry and ground clearance while subtracting ~two or more inch of seat height. > > 5. OEM seat mods: many here have removed their seat, replaced the foam with denser foam with less height which moves the butt closer to the ground as well. > > 6. Using a 4.50 x 17 tire instead of a 5.10 x 17 tire will net you about 3/4 inch. > > For MAX results: > 7. You can use lowering links and a different seat to gain up to 4" of less butt-altitude. > > Overall, I found the best solution for me (though not necessarily the cheapest) was the platform seat. > > Let us know what you decide. > revmaaatin. > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "wvskypilot" wrote: > > > > > > I have just bought my first KL6 650 after have all sorts of m/cs since > > age 16 (now 83) riding on road off road and motorcross. I am 5' > > 11" but find it hard to put my feet on the ground. > > > > I have heard that these bike can be lowered, My question is what > > is the best method, for the best use of the machine. > > > > Any ideas or comment are welcome > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Michel Chamberland]

Shouldn't rider weight and amount of luggage you haul your bike play into the equation as well? I don't think the same solution will work for everyone.

On Thu, Dec 27, 2012 at 6:52 PM, Ron Criswell wrote: > ** > > > If you lower it, you will bang the crap out of the skid plate if you ride > in places like Moab (White Rim) or Big Bend National Park (the gravel / > rock river road) and some fire roads. Mine is stock. I have some pretty > good gouges in my after market aluminum skid plate. That oil drain plug is > just too vulnerable for me.I think if I was going to spend some money, I > would spring for a better rear shock as it bottoms pretty easy in the > rougher stuff. I have Progressive springs on front. > > Criswell > > Sent from my iPad > > > On Dec 27, 2012, at 3:23 PM, "revmaaatin" wrote: > > > West Virginia, > > Welcome to the DSN and initiation to the KiLeRista's. > > > > You will find this link (upper left banner/column) of FAQ's to be > helpful as well. > > http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > > > After reading all the 'opinions', let me give you the quick and dirty > answer! There is actually several. smile. > > > > You are correct in asking the question; you will enjoy the bike more if > you can touch the ground easily. > > There are a couple of ways to accomplish that: > > > > 1. You can lower the rear, 1 or 2 inches with lowering links. > > --as other posters have stated, it changes the geometry some. > > and it will change the ground clearance. > > I say, so what. > > I note that you are not a Mx rider or single track rider on a KLR > overall, it will work just fine for you > > > > I also say, 'so what' based on your age disclosure, and the realistic > view of what you will use the bike for, it truly is, 'so what') > > > > 2. You can put on a shorter shock. Same results; though I have no > personal experience here. The list moderator, "FRED" would be a good person > to talk to about this. > > Fred's product list is here; phone number is listed at the site. > > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/ > > > > 3. If you do 1 or 2, it is 'generally' recommended sliding the forks up > in the triple trees an equal amount. = one inch for one inch of lowering > links. > > > > 3a. For Free! > > You might try sliding the forks up in the triple trees an inch and see > if that is 'enough' to increase your comfort level. > > Yeah, it changes the geomotry some; it is not a race bike at this point. > > > > NOTE: using method 1-3 will require an adjustment to you side stand > length = shorter. > > > > 4. Different seat = moves your butt closer to the ground; leaves the > bike with superior ground clearance. > > There are two types of lowered seats: platform and a dipped; Corbin > brand is a popular model. Meyers is another.... > > > > It would be nice if you could borrow a seat and try it. > > I have owned both the Corbin dipped seat and the platform, and settled > on the platform; sold the dip seat to a SHORT-legged Ross of ND. It was the > perfect solution for him. He could touch the ground with both feet > > and > > he kept the wonderful clearance. > > > > THE BAD: > > The dipped seat places you in a V-shaped pocket; the platform seat has > two seating areas. Neither seat allows for much fore/aft movement in the > saddle. > > For every mod, there is an equal and opposite reaction. shrug. > > > > The GOOD: > > Both seats allow the bike to keep its OEM geometry and ground clearance > while subtracting ~two or more inch of seat height. > > > > 5. OEM seat mods: many here have removed their seat, replaced the foam > with denser foam with less height which moves the butt closer to the ground > as well. > > > > 6. Using a 4.50 x 17 tire instead of a 5.10 x 17 tire will net you about > 3/4 inch. > > > > For MAX results: > > 7. You can use lowering links and a different seat to gain up to 4" of > less butt-altitude. > > > > Overall, I found the best solution for me (though not necessarily the > cheapest) was the platform seat. > > > > Let us know what you decide. > > revmaaatin. > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "wvskypilot" wrote: > > > > > > > > > I have just bought my first KL6 650 after have all sorts of m/cs since > > > age 16 (now 83) riding on road off road and motorcross. I am 5' > > > 11" but find it hard to put my feet on the ground. > > > > > > I have heard that these bike can be lowered, My question is what > > > is the best method, for the best use of the machine. > > > > > > Any ideas or comment are welcome > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > -- *Michel Chamberland *(m erc@...) C|EH, C|HFI, GIAC G2700, CCNA, CCNA Security, CCSK, Security+, Network+, A+, Project+, MCTS, MCP, CIW Professional/JavaScript Specialist/Database Design Specialist http://www.securitywire.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[mark ward]

I mentioned that. I toe it, but when loaded with camping / fishing gear, Easly Flat foot +.

--- On Fri, 12/28/12, Michel Chamberland wrote: From: Michel Chamberland Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Lowering a KLR 650 To: "Ron Criswell" Cc: "revmaaatin" , "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Date: Friday, December 28, 2012, 12:18 AM Shouldn't rider weight and amount of luggage you haul your bike play into the equation as well? I don't think the same solution will work for everyone. On Thu, Dec 27, 2012 at 6:52 PM, Ron Criswell wrote: > ** > > > If you lower it, you will bang the crap out of the skid plate if you ride > in places like Moab (White Rim) or Big Bend National Park (the gravel / > rock river road) and some fire roads. Mine is stock. I have some pretty > good gouges in my after market aluminum skid plate. That oil drain plug is > just too vulnerable for me.I think if I was going to spend some money, I > would spring for a better rear shock as it bottoms pretty easy in the > rougher stuff. I have Progressive springs on front. > > Criswell > > Sent from my iPad > > > On Dec 27, 2012, at 3:23 PM, "revmaaatin" wrote: > > > West Virginia, > > Welcome to the DSN and initiation to the KiLeRista's. > > > > You will find this link (upper left banner/column) of FAQ's to be > helpful as well. > > http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > > > After reading all the 'opinions', let me give you the quick and dirty > answer! There is actually several. smile. > > > > You are correct in asking the question; you will enjoy the bike more if > you can touch the ground easily. > > There are a couple of ways to accomplish that: > > > > 1. You can lower the rear, 1 or 2 inches with lowering links. > > --as other posters have stated, it changes the geometry some. > > and it will change the ground clearance. > > I say, so what. > > I note that you are not a Mx rider or single track rider on a KLR > overall, it will work just fine for you > > > > I also say, 'so what' based on your age disclosure, and the realistic > view of what you will use the bike for, it truly is, 'so what') > > > > 2. You can put on a shorter shock. Same results; though I have no > personal experience here. The list moderator, "FRED" would be a good person > to talk to about this. > > Fred's product list is here; phone number is listed at the site. > > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/ > > > > 3. If you do 1 or 2, it is 'generally' recommended sliding the forks up > in the triple trees an equal amount. = one inch for one inch of lowering > links. > > > > 3a. For Free! > > You might try sliding the forks up in the triple trees an inch and see > if that is 'enough' to increase your comfort level. > > Yeah, it changes the geomotry some; it is not a race bike at this point. > > > > NOTE: using method 1-3 will require an adjustment to you side stand > length = shorter. > > > > 4. Different seat = moves your butt closer to the ground; leaves the > bike with superior ground clearance. > > There are two types of lowered seats: platform and a dipped; Corbin > brand is a popular model. Meyers is another.... > > > > It would be nice if you could borrow a seat and try it. > > I have owned both the Corbin dipped seat and the platform, and settled > on the platform; sold the dip seat to a SHORT-legged Ross of ND. It was the > perfect solution for him. He could touch the ground with both feet > > and > > he kept the wonderful clearance. > > > > THE BAD: > > The dipped seat places you in a V-shaped pocket; the platform seat has > two seating areas. Neither seat allows for much fore/aft movement in the > saddle. > > For every mod, there is an equal and opposite reaction. shrug. > > > > The GOOD: > > Both seats allow the bike to keep its OEM geometry and ground clearance > while subtracting ~two or more inch of seat height. > > > > 5. OEM seat mods: many here have removed their seat, replaced the foam > with denser foam with less height which moves the butt closer to the ground > as well. > > > > 6. Using a 4.50 x 17 tire instead of a 5.10 x 17 tire will net you about > 3/4 inch. > > > > For MAX results: > > 7. You can use lowering links and a different seat to gain up to 4" of > less butt-altitude. > > > > Overall, I found the best solution for me (though not necessarily the > cheapest) was the platform seat. > > > > Let us know what you decide. > > revmaaatin. > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "wvskypilot" wrote: > > > > > > > > > I have just bought my first KL6 650 after have all sorts of m/cs since > > > age 16 (now 83) riding on road off road and motorcross. I am 5' > > > 11" but find it hard to put my feet on the ground. > > > > > > I have heard that these bike can be lowered, My question is what > > > is the best method, for the best use of the machine. > > > > > > Any ideas or comment are welcome > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > -- *Michel Chamberland *(m erc@...) C|EH, C|HFI, GIAC G2700, CCNA, CCNA Security, CCSK, Security+, Network+, A+, Project+, MCTS, MCP, CIW Professional/JavaScript Specialist/Database Design Specialist http://www.securitywire.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Members Map https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=212558560286766214899.0004d0fa9f1732283bb6f&msa=0&ll=38.522384,-109.489746&spn=6.831383,9.624023Yahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[greg coyle]

yep, i agree... i pushed mine up about 1/2" just to try and have left it that way. makes just enough difference round town for me but let me feel a WHOLE lot safer out in the dirt. still need to put on the beefier skid plate, but that'll wait till spring. i did manage to get a quick ride in last week... a merry christmas present to myself. i used to measure out at 6' even in my youth gregc

On 12/25/2012 6:04 AM, Dooden wrote: > Honestly I considered lowering mine too, but I found that when I > loosened the triples clamps pushed the fork tubes out the top about 3/4" > it lowered the front just enough for that little I was looking for. > > No effect "I" can notice on handling. Heck how many took delivery and > rode off with the forks in "crate position" ? bout 3" sticking out. > > It costs nothing to try, I did it on my MC lift to support bike while > loosening and adjusting. > > Good Luck > > Dooden > A15 Green Ape > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com , > "wvskypilot" wrote: > > > > > > I have just bought my first KL6 650 after have all sorts of m/cs since > > age 16 (now 83) riding on road off road and motorcross. I am 5' > > 11" but find it hard to put my feet on the ground. > > > > I have heard that these bike can be lowered, My question is what > > is the best method, for the best use of the machine. > > > > Any ideas or comment are welcome > > > > > > > >

[ron criswell]

I weigh about 210 and never ride offload with luggage (except for Fig Newtons and WD 40, plus tire repair tools). The Fig Newtons and WD 40 makes great concrete when mixed together. Criswell Sent from my iPad

On Dec 27, 2012, at 6:18 PM, Michel Chamberland wrote: > Shouldn't rider weight and amount of luggage you haul your bike play into the equation as well? I don't think the same solution will work for everyone. > > > On Thu, Dec 27, 2012 at 6:52 PM, Ron Criswell wrote: > > If you lower it, you will bang the crap out of the skid plate if you ride in places like Moab (White Rim) or Big Bend National Park (the gravel / rock river road) and some fire roads. Mine is stock. I have some pretty good gouges in my after market aluminum skid plate. That oil drain plug is just too vulnerable for me.I think if I was going to spend some money, I would spring for a better rear shock as it bottoms pretty easy in the rougher stuff. I have Progressive springs on front. > > Criswell > > Sent from my iPad > > > > On Dec 27, 2012, at 3:23 PM, "revmaaatin" wrote: > > > West Virginia, > > Welcome to the DSN and initiation to the KiLeRista's. > > > > You will find this link (upper left banner/column) of FAQ's to be helpful as well. > > http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > > > After reading all the 'opinions', let me give you the quick and dirty answer! There is actually several. smile. > > > > You are correct in asking the question; you will enjoy the bike more if you can touch the ground easily. > > There are a couple of ways to accomplish that: > > > > 1. You can lower the rear, 1 or 2 inches with lowering links. > > --as other posters have stated, it changes the geometry some. > > and it will change the ground clearance. > > I say, so what. > > I note that you are not a Mx rider or single track rider on a KLR overall, it will work just fine for you > > > > I also say, 'so what' based on your age disclosure, and the realistic view of what you will use the bike for, it truly is, 'so what') > > > > 2. You can put on a shorter shock. Same results; though I have no personal experience here. The list moderator, "FRED" would be a good person to talk to about this. > > Fred's product list is here; phone number is listed at the site. > > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/ > > > > 3. If you do 1 or 2, it is 'generally' recommended sliding the forks up in the triple trees an equal amount. = one inch for one inch of lowering links. > > > > 3a. For Free! > > You might try sliding the forks up in the triple trees an inch and see if that is 'enough' to increase your comfort level. > > Yeah, it changes the geomotry some; it is not a race bike at this point. > > > > NOTE: using method 1-3 will require an adjustment to you side stand length = shorter. > > > > 4. Different seat = moves your butt closer to the ground; leaves the bike with superior ground clearance. > > There are two types of lowered seats: platform and a dipped; Corbin brand is a popular model. Meyers is another.... > > > > It would be nice if you could borrow a seat and try it. > > I have owned both the Corbin dipped seat and the platform, and settled on the platform; sold the dip seat to a SHORT-legged Ross of ND. It was the perfect solution for him. He could touch the ground with both feet > > and > > he kept the wonderful clearance. > > > > THE BAD: > > The dipped seat places you in a V-shaped pocket; the platform seat has two seating areas. Neither seat allows for much fore/aft movement in the saddle. > > For every mod, there is an equal and opposite reaction. shrug. > > > > The GOOD: > > Both seats allow the bike to keep its OEM geometry and ground clearance while subtracting ~two or more inch of seat height. > > > > 5. OEM seat mods: many here have removed their seat, replaced the foam with denser foam with less height which moves the butt closer to the ground as well. > > > > 6. Using a 4.50 x 17 tire instead of a 5.10 x 17 tire will net you about 3/4 inch. > > > > For MAX results: > > 7. You can use lowering links and a different seat to gain up to 4" of less butt-altitude. > > > > Overall, I found the best solution for me (though not necessarily the cheapest) was the platform seat. > > > > Let us know what you decide. > > revmaaatin. > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "wvskypilot" wrote: > > > > > > > > > I have just bought my first KL6 650 after have all sorts of m/cs since > > > age 16 (now 83) riding on road off road and motorcross. I am 5' > > > 11" but find it hard to put my feet on the ground. > > > > > > I have heard that these bike can be lowered, My question is what > > > is the best method, for the best use of the machine. > > > > > > Any ideas or comment are welcome > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > -- > Michel Chamberland (merc@...) > C|EH, C|HFI, GIAC G2700, CCNA, CCNA Security, CCSK, Security+, Network+, A+, Project+, MCTS, MCP, CIW Professional/JavaScript Specialist/Database Design Specialist > http://www.securitywire.com > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]