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DSN_KLR650
achesley43@ymail.com
Posts: 262
Joined: Sun Mar 11, 2012 8:16 pm

lowering a klr 650

Post by achesley43@ymail.com » Tue Dec 25, 2012 7:15 pm

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "wvskypilot" wrote:
> > > I have just bought my first KL6 650 after have all sorts of m/cs since > age 16 (now 83) riding on road off road and motorcross. I am 5' > 11" but find it hard to put my feet on the ground. > > I have heard that these bike can be lowered, My question is what > is the best method, for the best use of the machine. > > Any ideas or comment are welcome > > >
First thing I would do is set sag to about 1/3 of travel with you on the bike. You may find it more tolerable then. I did run 1" lowering links on my KLR years back. Had to go to a heavy rear spring to keep it off the rocks and curbs. Still ended up with a bashed Oil Drain Plug I had to repair with a time zert. Ended up going back to the stock links. I have a 28 inch inseam by the way. LOL@

Michel Chamberland
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Dec 25, 2012 7:23 pm

lowering a klr 650

Post by Michel Chamberland » Tue Dec 25, 2012 7:23 pm

I am also 5'11", I've had the pre-load setting at 1 (softest) and that was still too high for me. I could really only put one feet down. I put the eagle mike lowering links (1 inch), raised the forks 1 inch and cut my kickstand one inch to keep original geometry and at this point i am close to flat footed when stopped but not all the way there still. The bike still has plenty of clearance and even if i am not fully flat footed I feel a lot more in control of the bike when stopped. I am very happy with this setup. Hope this helps. On Tue, Dec 25, 2012 at 8:15 PM, achesley43@... wrote:
> ** > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "wvskypilot" wrote: > > > > > > I have just bought my first KL6 650 after have all sorts of m/cs since > > age 16 (now 83) riding on road off road and motorcross. I am 5' > > 11" but find it hard to put my feet on the ground. > > > > I have heard that these bike can be lowered, My question is what > > is the best method, for the best use of the machine. > > > > Any ideas or comment are welcome > > > > > > > > First thing I would do is set sag to about 1/3 of travel with you on the > bike. You may find it more tolerable then. > I did run 1" lowering links on my KLR years back. Had to go to a heavy > rear spring to keep it off the rocks and curbs. Still ended up with a > bashed Oil Drain Plug I had to repair with a time zert. Ended up going back > to the stock links. > I have a 28 inch inseam by the way. LOL@ > > >
-- *Michel Chamberland *(m erc@...) C|EH, C|HFI, GIAC G2700, CCNA, CCNA Security, CCSK, Security+, Network+, A+, Project+, MCTS, MCP, CIW Professional/JavaScript Specialist/Database Design Specialist http://www.securitywire.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Rodney Enriquez
Posts: 10
Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 10:25 am

lowering a klr 650

Post by Rodney Enriquez » Tue Dec 25, 2012 7:53 pm

Don't do it. Touching flat foot is overrated. You will be constantly bottoming out. Unless you never go off road then I would not recommend lowering your bike. Sent from my iPhone 4s

Jud
Posts: 570
Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2009 7:52 pm

lowering a klr 650

Post by Jud » Tue Dec 25, 2012 11:25 pm

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Michel Chamberland wrote:
> > I am also 5'11", I've had the pre-load setting at 1 (softest) and that was > still too high for me. I could really only put one feet down. I put the > eagle mike lowering links (1 inch), raised the forks 1 inch and cut my > kickstand one inch to keep original geometry and at this point i am close > to flat footed when stopped but not all the way there still. The bike still > has plenty of clearance and even if i am not fully flat footed I feel a lot > more in control of the bike when stopped. I am very happy with this setup. > > Hope this helps. >
The point is to be in control when the bike is underway. When you are stopped, there is nothing to control; all you need to do is keep it from tipping over. One foot is plenty for that. A KLR with insufficient spring or too much sag (essentially the same thing) is going to be an evil-handling beast at anything more than a walking pace on a smooth track.

Stephen North
Posts: 35
Joined: Fri May 25, 2012 8:54 am

lowering a klr 650

Post by Stephen North » Wed Dec 26, 2012 9:44 am

There is a reason that dual sports are tall.......if you want to be flat footed all the time buy a road bike, but riding off road you NEED ground clearance! Stitches Afloat LLC 4580 Harbor Road Shelburne Vermont 05482 802-985-9547 www.stitchesafloat.com stitchesafloat@...

RobertWichert
Posts: 697
Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 11:32 am

lowering a klr 650

Post by RobertWichert » Wed Dec 26, 2012 10:10 am

OK, my turn.... I put 2" lowering links on mine (2007) and rode it like that for maybe two years. Rode fine. Much easier to maneuver and MUCH less tippy. People say you can keep it up with one foot, well yes you can, but if it starts to go over, it's way harder to stop when it's higher. It's the bleeping gas tank. Take that sucker off some time and you'll see how easy the bike is to maneuver then. So I shortened the kick stand and I was a happy camper. I don't ride the Rubicon, so the off road I do (dirt/gravel/snow/etc) was not impacted. Also people said the sag would be bad, well, I never noticed it. Then I went on a "lowered seat" search. Hated it. Bought a lowered Sergeant seat after a lot of research. My legs are too long for that. I felt like a pretzel. It went back and I got their standard seat. It's great. Then I went on a "lowered shock" mission. Bought a Progressive "1" lower" shock. I put that on after looking at it on the bench for about six months and took off the 2" lowering links and put on 1" lowering links. Now the bike is higher than before! I have no idea why, but it rides fine and I can still maneuver it easily and it is not as tippy as stock. So I'm satisfied and a happy camper again. Now for handling... It DOES make a difference. But wait! When I originally put the 2" lowering links on, I tried to figure out what it would do. I have decided (don't try to convince me otherwise, regardless, I have made up my mind) that lowering the rear increases rake and trail. And that makes it more stable and theoretically less easy to turn into corners. And guess what? It's true! It's true! I could tell on the freeway that it was more stable in the buffeting. As for less easy to turn in, well, the next time you are on the track at Willow Springs you can tell me how it is. I don't do that. PROOF - Hot shot road racers drop their triple clamps (raise their forks) to make their bikes easier and quicker turning. Not kidding. So, my recommendation is unless you want your legs to be bent more than they are, stay away from lowered seats. I also recommend lowering the bike using links or shocks (if you can afford shocks - they are expensive!) and get it so you like it. You'll be happier when you are happy with the height of the bike, I can tell you that. All the "get used to it" stuff isn't going to make you happy. Lower the triple clamp? Well, I never did it, but why not? I actually thought about buying Progressive fork springs, but they don't make lower ones, and they are expensive, so I kept it stock (and free). Cheers to all! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================
On 12/25/2012 9:25 PM, Jud wrote: > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > , Michel Chamberland > wrote: > > > > I am also 5'11", I've had the pre-load setting at 1 (softest) and > that was > > still too high for me. I could really only put one feet down. I put the > > eagle mike lowering links (1 inch), raised the forks 1 inch and cut my > > kickstand one inch to keep original geometry and at this point i am > close > > to flat footed when stopped but not all the way there still. The > bike still > > has plenty of clearance and even if i am not fully flat footed I > feel a lot > > more in control of the bike when stopped. I am very happy with this > setup. > > > > Hope this helps. > > > > The point is to be in control when the bike is underway. When you are > stopped, there is nothing to control; all you need to do is keep it > from tipping over. One foot is plenty for that. > > A KLR with insufficient spring or too much sag (essentially the same > thing) is going to be an evil-handling beast at anything more than a > walking pace on a smooth track. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

mark ward
Posts: 1027
Joined: Fri Jan 15, 2010 11:18 am

lowering a klr 650

Post by mark ward » Wed Dec 26, 2012 10:52 am

Theres a reason for everything, BUT changes are for a resaon also. Men used MODIFIED road bike's for hill climbing. SEE STURGIS ( FAMOUS for street bikes) and Jackpine. Then we seen Dirt bike's, and then ENDURO That changed to DUAL SPORT (still enduros but STYLE CHANGED. Dual sport, How about ADVENTURE bikes Thats a DUAL SPORT CHANGED FOR COMFORT for longer rides. In MCN magizine, one guy argued a trike is not a motorcycle it has to have 2 wheels & thats what makes it a MOTOR cycle. NO 2 wheels makes it a BI-cycle, CHANGING IT and adding a MOTOR to a BI-cycle, made it a motorcycle. ENJOY AND STAY SAFE!!!!
--- On Wed, 12/26/12, Stephen North wrote: From: Stephen North Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Lowering a KLR 650 To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Date: Wednesday, December 26, 2012, 3:44 PM There is a reason that dual sports are tall.......if you want to be flat footed all the time buy a road bike, but riding off road you NEED ground clearance! Stitches Afloat LLC 4580 Harbor Road Shelburne Vermont 05482 802-985-9547 www.stitchesafloat.com stitchesafloat@... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RobertWichert
Posts: 697
Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 11:32 am

lowering a klr 650

Post by RobertWichert » Wed Dec 26, 2012 11:14 am

Yes, well, when I was learning to ride off road, anything with knobby tires was an off road bike. Fenders one inch from the tires? Troublesome. Exhaust under the engine? Watch out for rocks! Anything with an "up pipe" was a REALLY GOOD off road bike. It's been a while, boys, it's been a while. Can you spell Hodaka? Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================
On 12/26/2012 8:52 AM, mark ward wrote: > > Theres a reason for everything, BUT changes are for a resaon also. > > Men used MODIFIED road bike's for hill climbing. > > SEE STURGIS ( FAMOUS for street bikes) and Jackpine. > > Then we seen Dirt bike's, and then ENDURO That changed to DUAL SPORT > (still enduros but STYLE CHANGED. > > Dual sport, How about ADVENTURE bikes Thats a DUAL SPORT CHANGED FOR > COMFORT for longer rides. > > In MCN magizine, one guy argued a trike is not a motorcycle it has to > have 2 wheels & thats what makes it a MOTOR cycle. NO 2 wheels makes > it a BI-cycle, CHANGING IT and adding a MOTOR to a BI-cycle, made it > a motorcycle. > > ENJOY AND STAY SAFE!!!! > > --- On Wed, 12/26/12, Stephen North > wrote: > > From: Stephen North > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Lowering a KLR 650 > To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com " > DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > Date: Wednesday, December 26, 2012, 3:44 PM > > > > There is a reason that dual sports are tall.......if you want to be > flat footed all the time buy a road bike, but riding off road you NEED > ground clearance! > > Stitches Afloat LLC > 4580 Harbor Road > Shelburne Vermont 05482 > 802-985-9547 > www.stitchesafloat.com > stitchesafloat@... > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

ron criswell
Posts: 1118
Joined: Fri Apr 07, 2000 5:09 pm

lowering a klr 650

Post by ron criswell » Wed Dec 26, 2012 11:49 am

Long live Hodakas. Rode one 7-8 years WFO the whole time and even won a couple trophies. Greatest thing about the Hodaka was very light weight, durable as hell and a torquey little engine. I rode that thing more places than any other dirt type bikeI have owned. I even commuted on it on back roads. But seriously if you want low seat height, get a Harley Hugger or Low Rider. Keep the engine high up away from rocks and the long travel suspension so your legs and back isn't the suspension. Fenders one inch from the tire will not work on Texas black clay gumbo or Red River Quicksand.I have had sad experiences with that. Criswell Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 26, 2012, at 11:14 AM, RobertWichert wrote: > Yes, well, when I was learning to ride off road, anything with knobby > tires was an off road bike. Fenders one inch from the tires? > Troublesome. Exhaust under the engine? Watch out for rocks! > > Anything with an "up pipe" was a REALLY GOOD off road bike. > > It's been a while, boys, it's been a while. > > Can you spell Hodaka? > > Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C > +1 916 966 9060 > FAX +1 916 966 9068 > > =============================================== > > On 12/26/2012 8:52 AM, mark ward wrote: > > > > Theres a reason for everything, BUT changes are for a resaon also. > > > > Men used MODIFIED road bike's for hill climbing. > > > > SEE STURGIS ( FAMOUS for street bikes) and Jackpine. > > > > Then we seen Dirt bike's, and then ENDURO That changed to DUAL SPORT > > (still enduros but STYLE CHANGED. > > > > Dual sport, How about ADVENTURE bikes Thats a DUAL SPORT CHANGED FOR > > COMFORT for longer rides. > > > > In MCN magizine, one guy argued a trike is not a motorcycle it has to > > have 2 wheels & thats what makes it a MOTOR cycle. NO 2 wheels makes > > it a BI-cycle, CHANGING IT and adding a MOTOR to a BI-cycle, made it > > a motorcycle. > > > > ENJOY AND STAY SAFE!!!! > > > > --- On Wed, 12/26/12, Stephen North > > wrote: > > > > From: Stephen North > > > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Lowering a KLR 650 > > To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com " > > DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > > Date: Wednesday, December 26, 2012, 3:44 PM > > > > > > > > There is a reason that dual sports are tall.......if you want to be > > flat footed all the time buy a road bike, but riding off road you NEED > > ground clearance! > > > > Stitches Afloat LLC > > 4580 Harbor Road > > Shelburne Vermont 05482 > > 802-985-9547 > > www.stitchesafloat.com > > stitchesafloat@... > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

ron criswell
Posts: 1118
Joined: Fri Apr 07, 2000 5:09 pm

lowering a klr 650

Post by ron criswell » Wed Dec 26, 2012 12:59 pm

Interesting stuff about smaller fuel tank on this bike when most want to go to 7 gallons (except me). To me the greatest place for the fuel tank on this kinda bike....is under the seat. Hummm....don't those expensive German bikes do that? Kawasaki...put a 6 gallon under the seat with FI....maybe the Versys engine and keep the price down. German bikes would just be history. In my humble opinion. Criswell Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 26, 2012, at 10:10 AM, RobertWichert wrote: > OK, my turn.... > > I put 2" lowering links on mine (2007) and rode it like that for maybe > two years. Rode fine. Much easier to maneuver and MUCH less tippy. > People say you can keep it up with one foot, well yes you can, but if it > starts to go over, it's way harder to stop when it's higher. It's the > bleeping gas tank. Take that sucker off some time and you'll see how > easy the bike is to maneuver then. So I shortened the kick stand and I > was a happy camper. I don't ride the Rubicon, so the off road I do > (dirt/gravel/snow/etc) was not impacted. Also people said the sag would > be bad, well, I never noticed it. > > Then I went on a "lowered seat" search. Hated it. Bought a lowered > Sergeant seat after a lot of research. My legs are too long for that. > I felt like a pretzel. It went back and I got their standard seat. > It's great. > > Then I went on a "lowered shock" mission. Bought a Progressive "1" > lower" shock. I put that on after looking at it on the bench for about > six months and took off the 2" lowering links and put on 1" lowering > links. Now the bike is higher than before! I have no idea why, but it > rides fine and I can still maneuver it easily and it is not as tippy as > stock. So I'm satisfied and a happy camper again. > > Now for handling... It DOES make a difference. But wait! When I > originally put the 2" lowering links on, I tried to figure out what it > would do. I have decided (don't try to convince me otherwise, > regardless, I have made up my mind) that lowering the rear increases > rake and trail. And that makes it more stable and theoretically less > easy to turn into corners. And guess what? It's true! It's true! I > could tell on the freeway that it was more stable in the buffeting. As > for less easy to turn in, well, the next time you are on the track at > Willow Springs you can tell me how it is. I don't do that. PROOF - Hot > shot road racers drop their triple clamps (raise their forks) to make > their bikes easier and quicker turning. Not kidding. > > So, my recommendation is unless you want your legs to be bent more than > they are, stay away from lowered seats. I also recommend lowering the > bike using links or shocks (if you can afford shocks - they are > expensive!) and get it so you like it. You'll be happier when you are > happy with the height of the bike, I can tell you that. All the "get > used to it" stuff isn't going to make you happy. Lower the triple > clamp? Well, I never did it, but why not? I actually thought about > buying Progressive fork springs, but they don't make lower ones, and > they are expensive, so I kept it stock (and free). > > Cheers to all! > > Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C > +1 916 966 9060 > FAX +1 916 966 9068 > > =============================================== > > On 12/25/2012 9:25 PM, Jud wrote: > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > , Michel Chamberland > > wrote: > > > > > > I am also 5'11", I've had the pre-load setting at 1 (softest) and > > that was > > > still too high for me. I could really only put one feet down. I put the > > > eagle mike lowering links (1 inch), raised the forks 1 inch and cut my > > > kickstand one inch to keep original geometry and at this point i am > > close > > > to flat footed when stopped but not all the way there still. The > > bike still > > > has plenty of clearance and even if i am not fully flat footed I > > feel a lot > > > more in control of the bike when stopped. I am very happy with this > > setup. > > > > > > Hope this helps. > > > > > > > The point is to be in control when the bike is underway. When you are > > stopped, there is nothing to control; all you need to do is keep it > > from tipping over. One foot is plenty for that. > > > > A KLR with insufficient spring or too much sag (essentially the same > > thing) is going to be an evil-handling beast at anything more than a > > walking pace on a smooth track. > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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