dupont teflon lube

DSN_KLR650
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squasher_1
Posts: 400
Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2004 6:13 pm

chain lube

Post by squasher_1 » Mon Oct 11, 2004 10:02 pm

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Saltzer" wrote:
> > > I alternate between WD-40 (for off-road) and 80wt gear oil (for
on
> road). > > The manual says 80wt. I've come to the conclusion that all that
the
> > "sticky" chain lubes are good for is gathering dirt to sand your > chain > > into smithereens. The "dry" chain wax doesn't gather dirt the way > the wet > > lubes do, but doesn't do much of a lubricating job either. > > > > _E > > After riding for 22 years, and trying all kinds of different chains > lubes and potions, this is exactly what I have found to be true as > well. > > I too use just WD-40 on my chain to clean it up after dirt riding, > and I use 80wt gear oil on my new DID X-ring chain only when I am > riding long distances on road. I am doing a test on my chain right > now to see if what some folks have told me is true. > > Right now, I have over 7000 miles on my chain and have only lubed
it
> with gear oil, for high mile freeway stuff, TWICE. I also have
only
> cleaned it up with WD-40, after riding off road, 5 or 6 times. > > I did not have to adjust it at all for the first 5000 miles or so
and
> so far I have only adjusted it TWICE. Each adjustment only
required
> 1/4 of a turn on the adjusters. So far, between this great chain
and
> sprocket set, and this super easy oil/clean/lube regimen, I have
done
> the least amount of chain maintenence that I believe is possible.
It
> has required the smallest amount of work out of any chain bike that
I
> have had. > > MrMoose > A8 (Barbie and Ken special)
Are you still using a NON O-ring chain???

Keith Saltzer
Posts: 1071
Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2003 10:03 pm

chain lube

Post by Keith Saltzer » Tue Oct 12, 2004 12:43 am

> Are you still using a NON O-ring chain???
NO. I went through 5 of them though and did like them for what I used them for........getting every last little bit of the KLR power to the rear wheel. But SHEESH, what a bunch of work to keep them lubed and adjusted. ESPECIALLY the way that I treated them with my riding style. I moved up to cheap o-ring chains for a little bit ($30) and they were a little bit easier to mantain, but not much. I still only got about 5000 miles out of those too. After putting a new one on here in CA to make my trip to Pa and back, I toasted it, and my sprockets were finally gone (rear aluminum had 21,500 miles on it) by time I hit MOAB Utah on the return trip. So I bit the bullet and had Fred install new steel Sunstar sprockets and a real nice DID X-ring chain on. He showed me how the X-ring chain has less friction than the O-ring chains which I liked very much. So far I am pretty damn happy having to do very little lube and maintenence on it and the fact that I am losing only a little more HP compared to the non O-ring chains, but not as much as O-ring chains. I've got 7000 miles on it now, know I will get 10,000 no problem, would like to get and will be satisfied with 15,000 miles, and I hope to see 20,000 miles. We'll see. I'll keep you all informed. Again, keep in mind that I am HARD on chains. So the numbers will be higher for the majority out there, that ride ahhhhhhhhh normal. MrMoose A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

Bogdan Swider
Posts: 2759
Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2000 2:04 pm

chain lube

Post by Bogdan Swider » Tue Oct 12, 2004 8:32 am

> I too use just WD-40 on my chain to clean it up after dirt riding, > and I use 80wt gear oil on my new DID X-ring chain only when I am > riding long distances on road. I am doing a test on my chain right > now to see if what some folks have told me is true.
Hey another chain discussion ! I love chain talk especially during this political season. I've also done a test or two. Here's my experience: My first chain and sprocket set was changed at 19.5k miles. Since I bought the bike at 4k+ miles it had subsisted mainly on 80/90 gear oil applied every two tankfulls or so; the chain ran through a Z Chain Oiler gizmo every time it was lubed. I always lubed the chain warm cause that's what I was taught to do + the gear oil wouldn't spread on a cold chain. The drivetrain could have lasted longer but I had a long trip ahead of me and was going to take things apart anyway to clean and lube the uni-trac. My only problem with the gear oil was that it was sloppy. With my 2nd chain/sprockets ( DID X-ring/Sunstar ) I decided to lube with WD-40 for the life of the chain to see what would happen. WD would be cleaner I reckoned and could be bought in small transportable sizes in any "pueblito de mierda" in Mexico. Hey, it was even available in Canada. I lubed at the same intervals (2 tankfulls or less if I did dirt) and again used the Z Chain Oiler at every lube. I used the gadget as much to spread the oil evenly as to clean the chain. I dispensed with the warm chain requirement and more often than not lubed the chain cold. I never cleaned the chain with kerosene or any thing else. The results ? The chain and sprocket saw 21k miles. The majority of those were high speed highway often 80mph +; there was some dirt and some commuting as well. The front sprocket (15 tooth) was beginning to leave its' symmetrical state at least 5 or 6k miles before that; its' state of wear was no longer subtle. The rear was visibly worn but not yet in a claw state. The chain could have gone further though it was in the gray area when given the "pull back from the rear sprocket " test. The O-rings seem in fine condition. I again changed the system out because of an upcoming trip. Folks that's good enough for me. Some of you yupsters enjoy conspicuously consuming; you feel you must have a brand name moto-specific lube/wax on your shelf or in your saddlebag. If that's the case you could adhere one of those moronic Nike logos to a can of WD. And what about the planet ?? We have a finite supply of wax. Is it not best saved for bikini waxing ?? I'm now on chain # 3; a DID X-ring with Sunstar sprockets. Am I doing anything differently ? Only one thing: I changed the front (countershaft) sprocket at 10k miles before it showed much wear. It's clearly the weakest part of this trio. I hope that the rear sprocket and chain will last even longer since I did that. They have about 16k miles on them now; we'll see. Yours faithfully, Bogdan

Devon
Posts: 933
Joined: Sun Jun 03, 2001 7:13 pm

chain lube

Post by Devon » Tue Oct 12, 2004 8:47 am

bSwider@... wrote:
> If that's the case you could adhere one of >those moronic Nike logos to a can of WD. And what about the planet ?? We >have a finite supply of wax. Is it not best saved for bikini waxing ?? > >
That may be the clearest thinking to ever come out of a chain lube thread. Devon

Tom Hayslett
Posts: 72
Joined: Sat Jun 26, 2004 9:22 am

chain lube

Post by Tom Hayslett » Tue Oct 12, 2004 9:10 am

-----Original Message----- From: Bogdan Swider [mailto:bSwider@...] Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 6:31 AM To: Keith Saltzer; DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Re: chain lube I lubed at the same intervals (2 tankfulls or less if I did dirt) and again used the Z Chain Oiler at every lube. I used the gadget as much to spread the oil evenly as to clean the chain. ---- REPLY ---- Bogdan, what is a 'Z chain oiler'? From your message, I gather it's a tool for applying lube/cleaning your chain without having to 'spray' the lube on everything? Where can these be found? Thanks. Tom A16 and SS

Bogdan Swider
Posts: 2759
Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2000 2:04 pm

chain lube

Post by Bogdan Swider » Tue Oct 12, 2004 9:30 am

> > Bogdan, what is a 'Z chain oiler'? From your message, I gather it's a tool > for applying lube/cleaning your chain without having to 'spray' the lube on > everything? Where can these be found? Thanks.
It's a four sided plastic brush that you fasten around the top run of the chain while lubing. I carry mine in a soft case zip tied to the bike, A foot or so of thin plastic tubing fits on the top. You insert your lube straw into this tube and the lube hits the chain via the interior of the brush. It costs maybe $ 12 and can be found at moto-stores. However, I found that the WD straw would often fall off the tubing. I now spray the chain directly in front of the brush. The procedure is not much cleaner than carefully lubing a chain without it. Bogdan

denvowell@aol.com
Posts: 223
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2003 8:20 pm

chain lube

Post by denvowell@aol.com » Tue Oct 12, 2004 5:46 pm

Kevin (Mr.Moose) You said something about different chains effecting HP can you explain? Dennis A 18 the big red 1 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

pete88chester
Posts: 11
Joined: Thu Jul 18, 2002 12:50 am

chain lube

Post by pete88chester » Tue Oct 12, 2004 5:51 pm

For the last 6 months I have been using "MFR Chain Lube" I got at the local Kawi dealer. It's what he recommends for riding in dirt. It seems to do a good job. You can read about it at: www.progoldmfr.com . Has anybody else used this product, what do you think of it? Pete Chester A16

cactus_reese
Posts: 293
Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2001 6:31 pm

chain lube

Post by cactus_reese » Tue Oct 12, 2004 7:02 pm

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "pete88chester" wrote:
> > For the last 6 months I have been using "MFR Chain Lube" I got at
the
> local Kawi dealer. It's what he recommends for riding in dirt.
It
> seems to do a good job. You can read about it at: > www.progoldmfr.com . Has anybody else used this product, what do
you
> think of it? Pete Chester A16
I used it until I ran out. I liked it, but when I went to the dealer for another can, I discovered he no longer carried it. I now use the Kawasaki Racing Chain Lube. Seems to also work well. -Bryan

dumbazz_650
Posts: 201
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2004 3:34 pm

chain lube

Post by dumbazz_650 » Tue Oct 12, 2004 8:09 pm

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, denvowell@a... wrote:
> Kevin (Mr.Moose) You said something about different chains effecting
HP can
> you explain? > Dennis A 18 the big red 1 >
O-ring chains have more drag in use, due to the incresed friction of the rubber o-rings between the plates and links. Also, the better quality chains are often much heavier -stronger and more resistant to failure -but have greater mass. It takes more engine power to over come the extra friction and to accelerate that extra mass up to it's rotating speed. This shows up in reduced acceleration and even a lower top end. X-ring chains claim much lower resistance, but I've never measured them. Probably a nit for most of us, but KEVIN is different, just ask Keith. 8^) MarkB

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