front tube back tube

[Multifunction-ES@Bigfoot.com]

Jon,

> I am new to the list. Just got an A15 today.

Congrats on the new bike, and Welcome to the list. Have your grain of salt ready.

> How do you remove the seat? It doesn't open like on other bikes?

Remove side covers, they reveal two bolts that hold the seat down.

> How much should I expect to pay for the 500 mile service?

My dealer quoted me 2.5 hours labor at $65.00 per hour. - I did it myself -

> You have to rub all kinds of wax or whatever all over the new bike > every night until you get it out of your system. I am slathering > endless coats of Zymol on the tank. What do you all rub on the > plastic?

Wax? It's my understanding that you don't even wash a KLR much less wax it. According to lore, your just ride on a rainy day or make a deep creek crossing - is the preferred method, at least as I understand the procedure. I "could" have this wrong.

> I applied Armorall to the seat and had to wash it off because it > made the seat slippery.

Slippery seat bad. Ed Snow 2001 KLR650 "Zoom Zoom" Oceanside, CA

[Don Detloff]

> ... What do you all rub on the > plastic? > > Jon Zink

Jon, Maguires makes a product called Quick Detailer. After a ride, I spray some on the plastic and gas tank and wipe it off with a cloth or paper towel. It takes about 30 seconds and the bike ends up with a nice shine. An added benefit is the bike ends up smelling better than I do! You can find this in the wax section at auto parts stores. Here in Michigan, Quick Detailer goes for about $5.00. Of course, if you just roared through the mud, you will have to hose off the bike first. Then there are those on this list who don't wash their bike until there is enough mud on the bike to blow the tires out. Don Detloff Fair Haven, MI Lean???, Mean and Clean A14

[Dash Weeks]

OOOHH Jon Chill out on the washing and waxing stuff. That thing was meant to be dirty to help cover up some of the Ugly. Removal of the seat: Remove the two rear side covers then you'll see two seat bolts.... Take those out and then pull the seat back and up, thaz it. Buy the manuals and do your own service, it's more fun, it's not hard, you'll save money and if you are lucky you'll drop something into the case and have to pull the left cover. Seriously, do it yourself, provided you have metric tools, a torque wrench and you can read... You can read can't you? Search the archives for complete details on your endeavor. Basically you'll want to check the valves, change the oil, tighten all your fasteners, check your chain slack (hey guys remember Jennifer's favorite method, boy I miss her... sob), Check/fill your battery fluids, top off your radiator.... Hey did I mention getting the manuals and reading them.... It's all in there. Eldon's Valve job instructions are a must. (archives) New progresive fork springs are a very good buy. You can also fit a LR (Larry Rosseler sp?) Progressive spring on your stock shock or you could buy a new shock... Call Fred www.arrowheadmotorsports.com, he's got everything you need. Stuff you'll need to start considering for your new steed. Braided Brake Lines Fork Springs Manuals (did I mention those earlier?) Bash Plate Aluminum Hand Guards (will save you a bundle in the long run) Acerbis Rally Pro are my top choice Moose Shift lever (Your's will prolly break soon, nice to have a spare waiting) IMS footpegs (stockers can be hazardous to your health in the wet or mud) Gell Grips (they just feel good) Fork Brace Custom Tool Kit New Rim Skins (ones with big teeth like this) There's tons more things to spend your money on. Do you need these things to ride today? NO! Will some of them save you some money in the long run if you ride off road? YES! There are Three truths about riding the KLR (esp. in dirt) 1) It's a heavy Beast 2) You'll Fall 3) You'll fall again Welcome to the List Jon.. Damn Glad to have ya... (Provided that you believe what I believe and you don't talk back ) All the information is right here and in the archives, you just have to mine it. LaterZ Dash At 02:13 AM 4/3/2001 +0000, you wrote:

>I am new to the list. Just got an A15 today. Another fellow bought >it new, didn't have enough inseam, didn't like it, went back and >bought a Yamaha V Star so his feet would touch the ground. He sold >it to me. 200 miles on the bike. Drove it first time today. Like >it alot. Some questions. > >How do you remove the seat? It doesn't open like on other bikes? > >How much should I expect to pay for the 500 mile service? > >I weigh 200 pounds. Should I be doing anything to the rear preload >or the forks? > >You have to rub all kinds of wax or whatever all over the new bike >every night until you get it out of your system. I am slathering >endless coats of Zymol on the tank. What do you all rub on the >plastic? I applied Armorall to the seat and had to wash it off >because it made the seat slippery. > >Jon Zink

[brockmans2@excite.com]

Hi All I'm looking at a DS "for my wife to learn on" (at least thats what I'm telling her, hehehe). Actually, it will serve a couple functions, 1st for my wife to learn how to ride, and later as an around town hooligan tool (to complement my Ducati M900), with some trail riding mixed in. The KLR seems to be the DS to get, and I have located a very clean '94 locally for what seems to be a good price. I understand there were some pretty significant changes in '95 or '96, and am wondering if I should therefore avoid an earlier model. I also saw a post in the archive regarding catastrophic failures on earlier models, were the problems resolved by the upgrade, what caused the failures, and can an inspection give a good indication of whether the bike will have a long life? Sorry for all the questions at once, TIA for your help. Regards, Daryl 99 M900S (94 KLR650?)

[Guest]

Hi All Started riding dirt/ trails/streets as a kid, now 50 and for for many years just a street rider, about 45k per year. Lots of Ironbutt rides, just completed the 48 States Plus Alaska. Just purchased a 93 KLR 650. Wonder what suggestions the group may have to out fit her for dirt/camping/travel use. What tires has the group found to be a good combo for dirt and street? I live in central NC and live only 15 miles from Uwharrie National Forrest, so plenty of "clsoe" roads, fire trails, etc. Thanks for the input. Ride Safe Kenn Clark MSF InstructorIBA #7558 AMA BMW MOA Life RedRider

[John Lyon]

Kenn, Read the FAQ, It is a wealth of good information. FAQ: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html I would put some miles on the bike to determine what you feel is needed in terms of upgrades. The FAQ has links to all the aftermarket suppliers. For 50/50 tires the Kenda K270 is a popular pick on this list. The Continental TKC 80 has also had some good reviews. John Lyon --- "Kenn " wrote:

> Hi All > > Started riding dirt/ trails/streets as a kid, now 50 > and for for many > years just a street rider, about 45k per year. Lots > of Ironbutt > rides, just completed the 48 States Plus Alaska. > > Just purchased a 93 KLR 650. Wonder what > suggestions the group may > have to out fit her for dirt/camping/travel use. > > What tires has the group found to be a good combo > for dirt and street? > > I live in central NC and live only 15 miles from > Uwharrie National > Forrest, so plenty of "clsoe" roads, fire trails, > etc. > > Thanks for the input. > > Ride Safe > Kenn Clark

===== John __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com

[Doug Pippin]

Hi All I'm a new KLR owner, having just picked up a nice 2002 model with 770 miles on it. I have past experience with dirt bikes, having ridden many enduros and ISDE qualifiers and when I quit racing several years ago I picked up an XR350R that's recently been sort of converted to dual sport. Doesn't have a battery, turn signals etc. so I bought the KLR so I'd be safer when riding on the road. I'll likely be selling the XR in the future (too many bikes in the garage) My wife and I both ride sport bikes on the wonderful roads here in Western North Carolina. I'm looking forward to riding the KLR a lot in the mountains and want to make a few modifications as I see fit after riding a few miles. From my first ride I've already decided the first mod will be front suspension. LR Progressive springs seem to be the consensus here. Has anyone had success with Race Tech springs and emulators in the KLR? I have Race Tech springs and Gold Valves in our VFR's along with a Penske on one and an Ohlins on the other and the handling is top notch now. Also intend to rejet the carb so any advise here would be appreciated. I see a lot of talk about the doohickey but have also been told that if you lean the bike to the right when you make the adjustment the stock doohickey will work OK. Any comments. Front brake will need some attention also but it's not my top priority One thing I could use help with is the parking light. Is there a fuse or a wire that I can disconnect that will disabled the parking light. I'd like to do this before I inadvertently run the battery down by turning the key too far. Does anyone have a parts manual in pdf format that they'd be willing to share? I intend to get the shop manuals but haven't had time to buy them yet. Any help on any of these questions will be greatly appreciated. Doug ---------- Doug Pippin 828-684-8488 dpippin5@... ---------- [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[bigfatgreenbike@netscape.net]

Doug Pippin wrote:

>Hi All > >I'm a new KLR owner, having just picked up a nice 2002 model with 770 miles > >Has anyone had success with Race Tech springs and emulators in the KLR?

Yes. And contrary to Racetech's advice (they don't even sell the fork springs they recommend for the KLR anyway) the LR progressive spring work fine with the emulators, particularly if you like a firmer ride.

>Also intend to rejet the carb so any advise here would be appreciated.

There isn't a lot of "low-hanging fruit" as far as pipes and jetting go. With the stock exhaust, opening up the idle mix screw 1 turn from the stock position makes the bike run cooler, solves occasional surging problems...

> >I see a lot of talk about the doohickey but have also been told that if you >lean the bike to the right when you make the adjustment the stock doohickey >will work OK. Any comments.

The stock doohickeys have a questionable fit and even more questionable metallurgy. They work "fine" until they break. Or until their sloppy fit causes the spring to fatigue and break. Not a lot of money for a significant improvement in reliability, especially since the newer bikes appear to have more doohickey problems.

> >Front brake will need some attention also but it's not my top priority > >One thing I could use help with is the parking light. >Is there a fuse or a wire that I can disconnect that will disabled the >parking light. I'd like to do this before I inadvertently run the battery >down by turning the key too far.

I don't think it's that easy. AFAIK the park light is switched inside the ignition switch, and uses the same wiring as the running gear.

> >Does anyone have a parts manual in pdf format that they'd be willing to share? >>

The entire parts book is online at buykawasaki.com

> >---------- >Doug Pippin >828-684-8488 >dpippin5@... > >---------- > > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: >DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > >

-- Brooklyn '01 A15-Z KLR650 '81 SR500 __________________________________________________________________ McAfee VirusScan Online from the Netscape Network. Comprehensive protection for your entire computer. Get your free trial today! http://channels.netscape.com/ns/computing/mcafee/index.jsp?promo=393397 Get AOL Instant Messenger 5.1 free of charge. Download Now! http://aim.aol.com/aimnew/Aim/register.adp?promo=380455

[Jim A Backer]

I have just bought a 92 klr 650 and am curious as to what I should be checking out prior to putting it to use. It has about 11000 miles on it and appears to be in real nice shape. I have yet to pick it up but will do that this weekend as it is in CO. and I am in WY. So actually it is not mine as yet so if there are issues that I need to know about I would like to know them prior to going Sat. to pick it up. The nest thing that I need to know is What Accessories are necessary to keep it in one piece. thanx jim ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!

[pbeecher2004]

Greetings, Picked up my A18 on Thursday and this is my first attempt at a post. I saw two recent messages regarding the shipping position of the fork tubes. While I was inspecting my bike at delivery, I noticed the tubes were 2 + inches above the top clamp. Having been educated by three months of lurking, I mentioned it to the mechanic. He told me If the forks were flush with the clamp "the bike would wheelie right over backwards on you". I just smiled and rode away. I figured it was as good a time as any to start my new dealer - independent life as a (shudder) ex-Harley guy. I think priority number two will have to be making some of the wiring a little more robust. At my pre delivery walk around, I noticed the right signal lights and front brake light switch weren't working. The same "mechanic" said "oh yeah, those wires come loose sometimes". He fumbled around for a while and made the connections. When I got home I looked at the wiring under the rear fender. I doubt it would survive 500 miles of easy street break in, much less the dirt. I also mentioned the first service check and valve adjustment just to see the reaction. I was given the dealers 500 - 700 mile check list. they do a $99 + parts service with no mention of checking the valves. My thanks to all the contributors on this list. I'm anxious to finish my first semester, get my hands dirty, and move on towards my sophomore year... ..Pat Beecher