sprocket change - update

[Jeff Khoury]

UPDATE: Just for giggles, I decided to change from a 16T back to my 15T since I'm mostly commuting in traffic right now. I timed myself to see how accurate my estimation was. Total time, using only tools I carry on the bike, including getting my tools out and putting them away was 12:45 (my tool bag is very neatly organized). This did NOT include wiping down the old sprocket and putting it away or scrubbing up afterward. Including these two items, it was about 20 minutes start-to-finish. -Jeff Khoury

----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Khoury" To: "Brian Good" Cc: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Saturday, June 9, 2012 10:26:54 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: A KLR review video Eagle Mike's Prevailing Torque Nut eliminates the need for the bendy washer that holds the countershaft nut in place. The threads are ground at a slightly different pitch than the ones on the shaft, causing it to bind just enough so it won't back out with vibration. Once you have this in place... and if you keep a coat of grease on your countershaft so the sprocket doesn't stick, changing the front sprocket is quite quick and easy. 1. pull out the cotter pin on your rear axle and throw it away. Replace it with a hitch pin so you don't have to mess with that the next time. 2. Back off your adjusting nuts (or bolts, depending on the year) on the swingarm with a 12mm wrench (on the 08+). Keep those oiled so they move easily. 3. Using a 27mm socket, loosen the axle. 4. Give the rear tire a swift kick to push it all the way forward using a size 10 boot. 5. Remove 3 10mm bolts on the countershaft cover. 6. Walk around to the left side of the bike. 7. Take a 30mm socket (27mm for the stock one) with a 6" extension and put it on the countershaft nut while leaning on the seat. Step on the rear brake while pulling upward to break it free. 8. Pull the sprocket off with the chain still on it, then roll the sprocket out of the chain. 9. Put the new sprocket into the chain then push it onto the shaft. 10. Reinstall the EM Prevailing Torque nut just like you removed it, using German torque specs (gudentight). 12. Reinstall the countershaft cover. 13. Adjust and align chain/Tighten rear axle. 14. Replace hitch pin in rear axle. I know it sounds like a lot, but I can easily accomplish that in 10 minutes - and you can too with a little practice. -Jeff Khoury ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Good" < w7fdd@... > To: "DSN KLR650" < DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Saturday, June 9, 2012 8:09:05 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: A KLR review video Jeff... Would you tell me more about this EM prevailing torque nut ? and how do you make your counter sprocket changes so fast? Thanks Brian Good Bothell, Wa 08 klr [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[thomas.bradford16]

Hi Folks - I've got an Acerbis fender that I'm going to mount on my EM fork brace and have a couple of questions.... 1. The stock fender has a guide that holds the speedometer cable - the new fender does not - is this something that is required which means I have to fabricate some kind of solution? 2. Any problem unscrewing the speedometer cable from the front axle to thread it through the guide on the stock fender or is it better to clip the guide with some wire cutters to free the speedo cable? Thanks