On May 28, 2012, at 8:45 PM, "Jud" wrote: > The short answer is: don't waste your time. > > The stock gearing is 15/43, with 106 links in the chain. I have heard of people running a 17t chainwheel. It barely fits, but apparently they like it. I can't see why. I tried a 16t and didn't like it: poor top-gear roll-on, sluggish around town and off the line, geared way too tall off-road, no improvement in fuel economy, and the bike would not come close to pulling its re-line in top. On the up-side, the bike ran 300 rpm slower at 70. Give up a lot, gain very little. > > There is a lot of variation in power output between different examples, though; the ones with a couple or three more horsepower may be better at pulling the taller gear. To my mind, though, tall gearing is for bikes with a small frontal area and decent aerodynamics. The KLR is wide and dirty, not a good candidate. > > Kawasaki really got the stock gearing right for most purposes. On the street, on the highway, and on most unpaved roads, stock gearing works just fine. In the mountains, or in a venue like Moab, where you might spend days off pavement and on steep tracks, it is worthwhile to lower the gearing. > > If your KLR spends a lot of time in conditions where tall gearing is a net asset, you probably ought to be on a different bike. > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Rick Linson wrote: > > > > I am looking to purchase a front sprocket 2 teeth more than the original. Anyone have experience with a particular brand or number of teeth that worked better than stock. I'm looking at bringing down the RPM a little on the freeway and, at the same time, not lose too much low end power for off road. I know you can't have both - just looking for those of you that have experienced changing the sprocket size. > > > > Thanks, > > Rick > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
high winds and coasting issue
-
- Posts: 1118
- Joined: Fri Apr 07, 2000 5:09 pm
front sprocket
I couldn't agree more with Jud (except in politics-heh). The stock gearing is best for all conditions for me. A friend uses the 16 but has to slip the clutch a lot in more challenging terrain and drop down a gear going against the wind. In my experience, lugging an engine is worse for it than running a little higher rpm. I do have a 14 tooth and even a 13 tooth I have only put on a couple of times. I think the engineers probably get gearing right for most conditions when they design a bike.
But seriously Jud, when are the Cowboys and Vikings gonna be good again?
Criswell
Sent from my iPad
-
- Posts: 472
- Joined: Sat Jun 03, 2000 9:42 am
front sprocket
Anyone who says that changing the front sprocket is a waste of time should be reminded that they DO NOT speak for the group, at best, they speak for themselves. I changed my front sprocket, and I love the difference. Admittedly, most of my riding is in the city and on the highway. And, yes, it does make the KLR a tad slower off the line, but the pay back is that at speed you use less RPM, more like 500-550 RPM in my case. I would suggest that you try changing the front sprocket, if it is not for you, you can always go back, it is not that large of an investment. If you do serious off road, you might not like it.
Eddie
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Rick Linson wrote: > > I am looking to purchase a front sprocket 2 teeth more than the original. Anyone have experience with a particular brand or number of teeth that worked better than stock. I'm looking at bringing down the RPM a little on the freeway and, at the same time, not lose too much low end power for off road. I know you can't have both - just looking for those of you that have experienced changing the sprocket size. > > Thanks, > Rick > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >
-
- Posts: 1118
- Joined: Fri Apr 07, 2000 5:09 pm
front sprocket
I ride mine 75 to 80 mph with stock gearing at 5200 to 5300 rpm all the time with 50,000 plus on the odometer with no problems. The mirrors are clear there. I guess it boils down to personal taste. I think the engineers got it right.
Criswell
Sent from my iPad
On May 29, 2012, at 6:49 AM, "eddie" wrote: > Anyone who says that changing the front sprocket is a waste of time should be reminded that they DO NOT speak for the group, at best, they speak for themselves. I changed my front sprocket, and I love the difference. Admittedly, most of my riding is in the city and on the highway. And, yes, it does make the KLR a tad slower off the line, but the pay back is that at speed you use less RPM, more like 500-550 RPM in my case. I would suggest that you try changing the front sprocket, if it is not for you, you can always go back, it is not that large of an investment. If you do serious off road, you might not like it. > > Eddie > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Rick Linson wrote: > > > > I am looking to purchase a front sprocket 2 teeth more than the original. Anyone have experience with a particular brand or number of teeth that worked better than stock. I'm looking at bringing down the RPM a little on the freeway and, at the same time, not lose too much low end power for off road. I know you can't have both - just looking for those of you that have experienced changing the sprocket size. > > > > Thanks, > > Rick > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
-
- Posts: 697
- Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 11:32 am
front sprocket
OK, I'm on the other side of this. I put a 13 tooth on mine more than a
year ago, I think. I really like it a lot, and not just off road. It
really pops on the freeway and when I wonder about revs, well, I can see
the redline is above where I ride, so no worries! It does use more oil
riding like that, but what the heck, it's like an oil change without
pulling the plug!
And yes again, it's faster off the line. It's like a "close ratio"
transmission. I can really bang through the gears and be at 6,000 RPM
in no time when merging. I really like it a lot.
And no changing the chain. Stock chain worked fine.
Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C
+1 916 966 9060
FAX +1 916 966 9068
===============================================
On 5/29/2012 5:54 AM, Ron Criswell wrote: > > I ride mine 75 to 80 mph with stock gearing at 5200 to 5300 rpm all > the time with 50,000 plus on the odometer with no problems. The > mirrors are clear there. I guess it boils down to personal taste. I > think the engineers got it right. > > Criswell > > Sent from my iPad > > On May 29, 2012, at 6:49 AM, "eddie" > wrote: > > > Anyone who says that changing the front sprocket is a waste of time > should be reminded that they DO NOT speak for the group, at best, they > speak for themselves. I changed my front sprocket, and I love the > difference. Admittedly, most of my riding is in the city and on the > highway. And, yes, it does make the KLR a tad slower off the line, but > the pay back is that at speed you use less RPM, more like 500-550 RPM > in my case. I would suggest that you try changing the front sprocket, > if it is not for you, you can always go back, it is not that large of > an investment. If you do serious off road, you might not like it. > > > > Eddie > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > , Rick Linson > wrote: > > > > > > I am looking to purchase a front sprocket 2 teeth more than the > original. Anyone have experience with a particular brand or number of > teeth that worked better than stock. I'm looking at bringing down the > RPM a little on the freeway and, at the same time, not lose too much > low end power for off road. I know you can't have both - just looking > for those of you that have experienced changing the sprocket size. > > > > > > Thanks, > > > Rick > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
-
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2001 5:42 am
front sprocket
I dunno - I have used larger, and smaller sizes - they seem to change the "heartbeat" of the engine in a negative way, I run stock on my KLRs now.
El Mur.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
-
- Posts: 158
- Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2016 10:50 am
high winds and coasting issue
Thanks revmaaatin! Point well taken.
I do remember your suggestion and I've kinda looked into it (put my thumb over the end of the vent tube while idling), but the bike runs perfectly 99% of the time so I'm not really inclined to mess with it.
I wonder if the tube gets blown hard enough to fold it over and block it. Would that cause fuel starvation? Would it be immediate? I think I'll trim it so it doesn't hang down so much...
________________________________
From: revmaaatin
To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2012 3:51 PM
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: High Winds and Coasting Issue
David,
Still sounds like fuel starvation.
I earlier suggested you need to check the carb vent hose. smile.
I have not changed my mind.
and you need to do the t-mod as well.
Put a clean piece of tubing on the vent line and see if you can gently blow air into the carb, as well as make sure the vent line is 100% free of debris or bugs. Bugs love vent lines. eddieM suggested the inline fuel filter as a cure for that as well.
I sucked a bug through my vent line and it 'parked' on the main jet.
Very annoying to happen at night, 15 miles from home, but it would still pull the bike at 30mph in a 65mph road. YIKES!
Another thing you could/should do is remove the carb drain plug, (right side of the bike, just below the exhaust header) drain the carb bowl (preferably on a clean white rag) and then with a rag to catch the splash, crank the bike so the vacuum petcock allows fuel to fully purge float needle and the carb bowl.
NOTE: do not be looking at the drain hole when the bike is cranking; you might get an eyeful of fuel.
If all this does not work, and you become patently exasperated, send me your instrument cluster. I could use the speedo head.....
revmaaatin.
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, David Nichols wrote: > > In this picture, you can see the two hoses to the right of the kick stand. The longer one is the carb vent. I tried to make the engine stall by plugging it with my finger at idle and it ran for about 30 seconds before I gave up. I guess I could try plugging it longer but I think if it's air pressures affecting it at speed in a cross wind it would be a completely different scenario. I guess I need to get a leaf blower... > > Photo: > http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh482/nichodr/C360_2012-03-28-12-17-35.jpg > > > > ________________________________ > From: eddie > To: KLR650 list DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2012 1:58 PM > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] High Winds and Coasting Issue > > > > > The only other thing I can think of is if you've rerouted the carb vent > line to the left side or done the T-mod and air pressure is pushing > in the hose and messing with the carburation. I rerouted mine with the > inlet behind my 09's starter relay cover. > To keep critters out of the hose, I fitted a plastic lawn mower fuel filter > on the end. The carb "breathes" perfectly with it in place. > It's not often I encounter a strong crosswind of any duration. But, it's > never lost power on me, either. > eddie > > > [Original Message] > > From: eddie > > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] High Winds and Coasting Issue > > > > Is it possible the snorkle acts as a baffle to prevent overly lean > > conditions when the intake is subjected to wind pressure? > > eddie > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: David Nichols > > >(snip) Also, I removed the snorkle. > > > > > > -David > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
-
- Posts: 570
- Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2009 7:52 pm
front sprocket
Yeah, it really breaks up a party fast if somebody ups with "Clinton was our greatest Republican president".
The Vikings just got the new stadium they have been blackmailing the citizens for, so they will probably now follow the Twins' lead and go totally in the tank. Didn't the Cowboys get a new stadium not too long ago?
Just so nobody can fairly accuse me of being unwilling to change gearing, I just installed 16/45 gearing on 108 links, a tad taller than stock. The reason is to be able to comfortably drop two teeth on the chainwheel when I feel like it. When will I feel like it? Around here, probably never. If I am in the Black Hills for a few days, maybe then.
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Ron Criswell wrote: > > I couldn't agree more with Jud (except in politics-heh). The stock gearing is best for all conditions for me. A friend uses the 16 but has to slip the clutch a lot in more challenging terrain and drop down a gear going against the wind. In my experience, lugging an engine is worse for it than running a little higher rpm. I do have a 14 tooth and even a 13 tooth I have only put on a couple of times. I think the engineers probably get gearing right for most conditions when they design a bike. > > But seriously Jud, when are the Cowboys and Vikings gonna be good again? > > Criswell > > Sent from my iPad > > On May 28, 2012, at 8:45 PM, "Jud" wrote: > > > The short answer is: don't waste your time. > > > > The stock gearing is 15/43, with 106 links in the chain. I have heard of people running a 17t chainwheel. It barely fits, but apparently they like it. I can't see why. I tried a 16t and didn't like it: poor top-gear roll-on, sluggish around town and off the line, geared way too tall off-road, no improvement in fuel economy, and the bike would not come close to pulling its re-line in top. On the up-side, the bike ran 300 rpm slower at 70. Give up a lot, gain very little. > > > > There is a lot of variation in power output between different examples, though; the ones with a couple or three more horsepower may be better at pulling the taller gear. To my mind, though, tall gearing is for bikes with a small frontal area and decent aerodynamics. The KLR is wide and dirty, not a good candidate. > > > > Kawasaki really got the stock gearing right for most purposes. On the street, on the highway, and on most unpaved roads, stock gearing works just fine. In the mountains, or in a venue like Moab, where you might spend days off pavement and on steep tracks, it is worthwhile to lower the gearing. > > > > If your KLR spends a lot of time in conditions where tall gearing is a net asset, you probably ought to be on a different bike. > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Rick Linson wrote: > > > > > > I am looking to purchase a front sprocket 2 teeth more than the original. Anyone have experience with a particular brand or number of teeth that worked better than stock. I'm looking at bringing down the RPM a little on the freeway and, at the same time, not lose too much low end power for off road. I know you can't have both - just looking for those of you that have experienced changing the sprocket size. > > > > > > Thanks, > > > Rick > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 24 guests